Ok another tip if you can see it on the buck it will print through the layup. Another thing use peel ply over the layup to remove excess resin and generate a surface texture. Peel ply can be applied in small pieces to cover complex areas. This will save you a ton of sanding.
I am very new to GRP construction, it seems the more I read and watch, the less I know about it. I have made a start on the centre section (cockpit and 4" fore and aft) and was quick enough to get CSM/woven roving/CSM on wet on wet before cure started. I struck it this morning after 36 hours but will leave it loose on the buck to cure further until after this weekend as I am taking the chassis to Santa Pod for a CK event and some going around in circles. It struck easily with little damage to the buck. Tuesday will tell if I have done my measurements right!
Subscribed but, I suggest you use epoxy for your matrix for your fiberglass. Better strength, longer working time, I have been in the composites business for decades. Check out my 1926 Miller 91 Special Indy winner cyclekart. All composite sandwich body structure on a Steve Vincent copied frame. I have electric start, battery, lights, a F/R gearbox and it is still under 300 lb. Great fun!
