Hello great vid! Was wondering if you could link in all the hardware, pump, and water connectors (like the one you pushed to redirect water) that way I can do the same cuz I love this livewell vid
Get a piece of metal cut it to fit the bottom give it creases from far end to the drain hole then seal it to the bottom. Its a false bottom to get the bottom to drain to the hole.
We use to run saltwater tropical fish from the keys to the mainland in a plastic barrel. At first we had to stop every hour or so to dump out the old water and put in new. Then we added a charcoal filter to the airator with pre filter on both ends. 1 to take out poop as it went into the charcoal filter, and the second one to filter out charcoal dust, as it was going back into the tank. This removed most of the ammonia and nitrates to make the freshness of the water last. With no filter and a few water changes, we made it to Miami. With the filter and no water changes we made it to Orlando. Big difference if you want your catch or live bait to make it home from the lake after a fishing trip. You can buy a charcoal filter for homes already made. Or make your own with PVC Pipe and put the charcoal in 2 white cotton socks for pre-filter. Once you put the sock filter in, if it is not packed tight add some loose socks to the top to pack it in, otherwise the water will not go through the filter, but down the inside walls of it, it has to be packed. This will keep your fish live and fresh while trailering your boat home from the lake.
I came across your video while getting ideas for an improved baitwell in my 14' Alumicraft jonboat. I found everything you showed helpful, including the one seemingly minor mistake you talked about getting the well to drain completely. I now know to pay attention to the ribbing of the Durabilt bin I purchase so that I can install a drain to get it to fully empty. Additionally, I will look to find the dual-flow valve for recirc or drain rather than using separate valves. Thank you for making the mistakes for me so I won't have to. Your video has been most helpful!! Definite UP vote!
I see this video is a little old but could you give me a link for where you bought the pump kit for the airrater and the drain set up? Great video and thanks for sharing.
SERIOUSLY.... why do you guys keep spending so much money for NOTHING....? i've had my 100 gallon live well going for several years with no problems at all. and i use NO stupid aerators and etc etc etc. just a simple .25in hose coming in from well below the waterline (equipped with a shutoff valve). and a .75in overflow line that leads to my bilge pump. i've hit both fresh and salt water with no issues. ran full weekend trips flawlessly as well. total system consists of... .25in hose .75in hose 4 flush mount hose connectors 100 gallon tub 1 .75in pvc screw valve (bottom drain) total system cost was less than $30 PRO's... vastly cheaper less equipment to maintain and fail. lighter boat (by only a little i know) longer battery life CON's.... you don't get to brag about spending more money on your rig than your buddies, is about all i can come up with, lol... btw, i had my boat built with an active live well originally. it was later custom work that sparked the idea of trying this set up out.
Great series I started on a full blown bass boat with a total rebuild it was harsh all the lessons I learned along the way. Much better idea to start small.i only open my live well to through a fish in then close it asap no strut needed and at weigh ins (emptying it through cover open to floor to get fish out). Just saying don’t think you need or wAnt a strut on that one. Nice job so far!
Its looking good!! How exactly are you mounting the box?..Also, I have located a 10 or 12 ft jon boat I can get. Have looked into the idea of framing it and converting to a bass boat. However I dont think I'd want to frame up the entire hull. Do you think that would offset the weight too much to frame half of it?
So, to answer your first question. On the live well I put aluminum angle all around the frame so the box would sit on top of the angle. The I drill down through the box and angle and put stainless hardware in to hold it! To answer your second question on my boat when I get up on the front deck it will left the rear of the boat out of the water! So I am putting a gas powered motor on the rear not only so I can get around a little faster but for weight distribution. So thats something to think about! You have to balance it to make it more stable! Thanks for the comment and veiw! Next video I will talk about this issue! Hopefully the weather will break so I can make this video!
Sorry I took so long to respond to your question. So the flow-rite valve that I bought was from their website. By the way I end up calling them because they website was under Construction. But I think you could get them on Amazon at one time and I know they are on e bay also! Sorry for the delay! Thank you for your comment and view!
@@michaelprater3803 I just finished the subfloor with 1” aluminum tubes. I’m 220 and it’s holding me just fine. I will put in a few supports underneath but hardly any sag when I walk on it.
@@michaelprater3803 I went with the 1" tubing and it holds my weight (215 6'7") really well. I did place them 10" apart just to be sturdy. Getting to work now own the the livewell after I get back from spring break. Using a smaller crate like you have and putting the drain in the bottom where all the valleys come together. Should work well.
