Dana 60 Tube Welding, Ball joint Install and Prep Work Before Truss and Shave Kit Superduty Axles 

Yes I did. I used their ENiFe-Cl wire and C25 gas.

@@aireddown813 thanks brother! I love your series! I'm watching your videos and builds as you go, like a step by step tutorial.

@@richardcabeza6511 thanks my friend! and thanks for watching. I’ve got episode three close to done.

@@aireddown813 Do you have a build sheet for your axles? I'm basically copying everything you did. I'm getting a little confused on the 35 spline outer stub conversion. Any help would be appreciated!

@@richardcabeza6511 I’ll post a build sheet here: Rear axle: -2004 Superduty Sterling 10.5 -ballistic shave kit with integrated truss -Artec 10* lower link mounts -ballistic upper link mount -Yukon zip locker -USA standard 5.38 gears for Ford 10.25 -Ratech 341K setup kit. -Dana 70 ring gear bolts -Ford 9 pinion preload shims -nitro forged 1410 ubolt yoke -rebuilt wheel hubs -SSBC V8 brake kit (future) -power stop crosssdrilled and vented rotors (future) -branik legacy 300m shafts (future) -branik Dana 60 drive flanges (future) Front axle: -2004 Superduty Dana 60 -ballistic shave kit -Artec low profile truss -Artec 10* lower link mounts for SD60 -Artec upper link mount -Artec weld on crossover high steer arm kit -rebuilt balljoints -Yukon zip locker -Yukon 5.38 gears -USA Standard setup kit -Yukon forged 1350 ubolt yoke -branik legacy 300M 35 spline inners (future) -spintech free spin kit with 4340 35 spline outers and stainless MM hubs (future) -SSBC V8 brakes (future) -power stop cross drilled and vented rotors (future)

I'll have an NP203 on there for a while, but I will eventually go atlas. Maybe a 4 speed atlas if I can afford it.

Yup. It used to be my favorite.

@@aireddown813 I'm drinking one right now.are you from California?

@@qweef69 I’m born and raised Reno. I’m closer to more of CA than I am Nevada. Haha

@@aireddown813 I'm from Sacramento planning on doing a build off with my step dads cj7 in Reno vs a CJ6 from Pollock pines I found tucked away

@@qweef69 how bout that! We’re neighbors. A build off would be fun, and with CJs no less.. are you guys gonna film it?

TY - I do watch Nate. He’s got a great channel. He mentioned using “special mig wire” in his last axle welding video. I have that wire. I use ENiFe-Cl welding wire in a 2 lb roll from blue demon. There is a seller on eBay who sells it for $80 a roll. This wire is specifically developed to weld steel to cast with low preheat. The other piece of the puzzle is peening. I needle scale each bead after I make it, and I wire wheel right after that. This allows the weld surface to stretch as the materials cool reducing cracking. Those two things, besides the obvious preheat and slow cool have worked well to eliminate cracking in my iron to steel welds. Check out the assembly instructions for the ballistic fabrication shave kit for a ford 10.5. They have the instructions available for download on their site. Those welding instructions are the most complete and fool proof method I have ever found for welding steel to cast.

Aired Down I just found your comment on your other video about that wire. Is that the same wire that you used on the tubes to the axle housing as well?

TY - I guess I didn’t answer your question... haha! So I saw where Nate had some cracking issues on his front axle welding, but a lot of his welding on iron seems to hold up. You can weld iron in a variety of ways, and Nate has experimented with nickel arc welding rods, stainless steel TIG filler, and basic MIG wire with varying degrees of success. the principal here, above all else, is iron shrinks at a different rate than steel as it cools. Because of this, a hard weld bead will crack under the extreme force of these shrinking materials. The idea is to make a weld bead soft enough to flex or even deform with the patent materials as they cool. The nickel iron welding wire I use does exactly that, it’s a softer material that deforms instead of cracking. If you peen a bead, it resets the surface forces in the bead and allows it to stretch a little more before breaking. So combining a softer more pliable weld bead like that of nickel or low grade stainless, with the principals of peening and slow cooling, gives you the greatest chance of a crack free weld as the materials cool.

Aired Down i usually used 309 stainless wire until I saw yours and nates videos and I started double guessing my methods bc there’s always a millions ways to do something. Being as I’m building a Jeep I plan to have my wife and kids in I definitely do not want a weld to fail on a steering knuckle. I used these axles in a Jeep and Toyota back nearly 10 yrs ago and I am pretty sure we just mig welded right on them and cooled them off slow. Never had any issues with cracking on the welds. But again not saying that was right. As I do fabrication for work now I always want to learn as much as possible and I appreciate you putting out videos on this stuff.

TY - yup. Same wire anytime I touch iron at all on this build.

Don’t get me wrong, I respect ARB. They have a great reputation, but lately I’ve been hearing of a lot of seal failures. Seems almost every RU-vidd rock crawler I follow has had an ARB seal failure in the last year. So for that reason, and because the ZIP is a little cheaper, I’ll go with Yukon and hopefully avoid losing my locker on a wheeling trip.