Darkroom Printing 

fair point, but if you dont know that you focus an enlarger with a lens, youre not a beginner. you probably stumbled over the video by chance and never wasted a single thought about photography before :)

@@inevitablecraftslab people like you really make others consider that photography is nothing but a wasted thought. There's no need to be a prick to someone who wants to learn more about a subject :)

@@chazsmith6846 ah come on ...

try split-filtering with a low and high number filter. Try starting a test sheet using a 4 to 5 filter (I'd suggest two second bursts for 8-10 bursts) going in one direction (I like to go horizontally) then, without changing anything but the filter, swap to a low number filter such as a 1/2 to a 1 1/2 filter and go over the test sheet again in two second bursts for 8-10 bursts going a different direction (I like to go vertically for the low filter). This will give you a test sheet with squares instead of rowes. Find the square you like the contrast best in and make your print according to how long that square was exposed for each filter

***** Sounds like it works just like my Durst then. I also have to change the named parts when changing from small to medium format as well. Maybe Ted has some kind of mismatch somewhere?

Gavin Donohue Check if it changes if you stop down the enlarger lens. If not, remember this: For 35mm, you need (usually) a 50mm lens or so. This has it's own lens-board attachment, type is a "tub" type lens board . When I enlarge my 35mm shots with the 50mm lens, I use one condenser, , I think it's called SIRICON 50, which gives even light and no vignetting at all. I also use a 35mm mask in a universial slide in/out holder with newton glass in it. When I change to 120 (6x6 and 6x7), I need to change out. - The lens to a 110mm ( I believe you can use 80mm as well) - The lens board (to a flat type) - The condenser - The mask in the negative-holder. Then i can enlarge my 120's with no vignetting at all. I cannot remember all the part-names for my durst right now and it's packed in my basement, as I no longer have room to enlarge shots in my new apartment.... See ebay item 351284537431 this is the correct condenser for 35mm, the 120 one has much more glass in it, as you can see from the photos in the ebay-ad, the 35mm one has a small hole where the light comes trough on one side, the 120 one is almost a solid piece of glass. I hope that helps, I would guess ebay would be your best bet to get hold of parts. I was able to order the 50mm lens-board and 35mm masks from Durst directly, but I cannot see that they sell those parts anymore on their official website, try and contact them and see if it is even possible (was quite expensive for parts + shipping!) EDIT: I see that the condenser I have for 120, is most likely called Siricon 80. Not sure if I can link or not, but try a google search for "siricon 80" (with the quotes) and there should be photos around that shows how it looks: img1.annuncicdn.it/c1/4f/c14f981474ae03f2262f7a6e27b62360_orig.jpg Ebay would be your best bet here too, or on places like APUG.org. That particular shot also shows the lens boards that you use with the lenses etc.

I see what you're saying but saving time isn't really the point.

The Art of Photography !gardenwindow

It has influence on sharpness and clarity as enlarger lenses have their sweet spot as well, which is normally the double of the wide open aperture. And as well it will influence the time that you could use to dodge or burn, to give more definition to the whiter parts by blocking the darks. Also, in my experience, filters and longer exposure times are kind of giving a more satisfying, “rounder” print, more what I see, when I actually take the photo... always good light!

Yes, you'll need to have developed the film first so you can essentially project it onto the photographic paper :)

Generally, no. Film developer is different to paper developer. Fixer is usually interchangeable.

Yes, like the film, a photographic printing paper has been coated with emulsion to make it sensitive to light (silver halides). Usually made orthochromatic (insensitive to red), permits photographers to work in a darkroom by minimal illumination of orange/red safelight.

If you have an iPhone or iPad then you should try enLARGE, a new app which lets you make a tiny (eg. credit-card size, or any size you like) full-frame work print and then when you get THAT looking great you use the app to work out the equivalent exposure time needed to make a second perfectly matching larger enlargement of any desired size. Easy to use, totally accurate, will give you a perfect looking larger enlargement in the first print!

Wetprints are still what ppl seem to want..For obvious reasons.. I know inkjet is good but.......

Billy Newman. Depending on your aptitude for learning by watching and doing, the first five minutes in a darkroom with an experienced printer will show you the basics, and an hour will be a revelation. If you are one of those who can learn by reading books with good illustrations, go to a large library, a used book store, Amazon or Ebay and get the book on printing that's one of a series of about 10 to 12 books on Photography published by Time-Life Books about 40 years ago, but this particular book is still relevant to printing in a darkroom today. Many community colleges and tech schools still have darkrooms - you just have to ask. If they still have a darkroom, they will probably have this book, which would save you a lot of time in trying to locate a copy.

@Tim Layton whats your best video for a beginner? I'm looking at getting an enlarger to print 8x10 B&W negatives.

Zachary Brown theres other videos, did you look and get a darkroom?

Well, a lens will always have an optimal aperture in terms of offering the highest level of sharpness and contrast. Usually 2 stops down from wide open. I have seen diffraction when stopping too far down.

Any relatively well known film scanner is fine. Epson v600, canoscan 4400, pakon even. Just as long as you can use the software and it'll resolve well enough, it shouldn't matter much.

Ilford Multigrade works fine for me. Anyone else have suggestions?

Peter von Snowtea I think he meant the multigrade RC paper that ilford produces. Just google ilford RC paper and you will mostly likely find them on websites like b&h and adorama.

TF - 4 does not require a stop bath

He's using tf4, tf4 or tf5 are fixers that do not require a stop that

+dadautube It doesn't help that his voice never ever stops and it also just makes me want to curl up and die for some reason. Maybe the natural note his voice is makes me want to die. Maybe its the incessant rambling at 180bpm. Idk.

+The Art of Photography Maybe I'm a bit of a saddist? No, I appreciate the information it's just... it's not well organized and seriously it is non stop talking... I made it to the flower then I had to quit. I dont literally want to die obviously...

+William Bones A sadist gets pleasure by inflicting pain on others. A masochist gets pleasure by having pain inflicted on them.

+BrettCWX You are right, I used the wrong terminology. Its OK though, its the internet. I will only be ridiculed by thousands of people daily until I die. Perhaps this also was my inner masochist purposely using the wrong word.

William Bones I didn't do either of them to you. Simply stated the difference. Enjoy your day :)

i know what you did here, you want a flat similar to his ey ? :)