David Brown 990 rockshaft #89 

Nicely done Barry, I didn't think it would fit together that way. You can check the lube pipe to valve chest by starting the tractor and look from the front of axle to see if it leaks and adjust as needed.

Another excellent explained and well shown tutorial video you make it look so easy no cussing either lol

You make it look so easy but it’s not for me I like the way you explain where farmers and not full fledged mechanics can understand many many many thanks from. TOM

Did well to get that ram shaft in with the valve chest in. I think I tried that but the wings were on and it would not go. Just left the valve chest loose on the ram shaft and rotated it in. Good vid Barry. M 😀

Great video again Barry. That went very well, it must feel great as each set of parts are fitted to the Tractor and are safe and sound. Did you check the O-Rings were fitted to the Feed Pipe Connector Block before attaching it to the Control Valve? If you start the Tractor when you’ve finished connecting the hydraulics you should see the oil feed into the PTO as a check that the lubrication system is working. Also have you filled the Final Drive Reductions with oil?

Another top video Barry - all went back very nice and easy with it so stripped back. I don't know if you put the push rod assembly (that the cam on the rock shaft operates) at the back of the valve chest in that RHS housing - it makes it a bit easier to just then get the cam on the studs on the end of shaft. If not then it's not a major deal and not worth taking the valve chest housing back off again as its very doable to get it all back in but just a bit fiddly with the spring and the cam follower to get installed and lined up. It's a very tight working area in there but just needs some patience and swear box recently emptied. It was a long time ago when I did mine and from memory it took a lot of fiddling with the spring especially. I can't remember exactly but I think I might have used a zip tie to hold the tension and then snip it when the cam was on the follower - but my memory could be wrong on that. All I do know for sure is that is was about the same amount of swear box activity as getting the diff lock back in. Looks good on the alignment of the pipe in the recess of the bypass valve outlet as the screw is nicely centre in the back of pipe block. Just can't believe how good all the paintwork looks. A work of art for sure.

That went really, really well! I'm glad you went this route with the reinstall, it shows the different ways the same thing can get done!

Good video again Barry! Went together very easily. I was a bit confused by the torque values so would be grateful of your opinion. The service manual states general torque values of 65 lbft for 1/2" and 110 lbft for 5/8". In addition, it says "Ram cylinder cover nuts 120 lbft" and "Ram cylinder cover bolts 75 lbft. So for the ramshaft bracket (RH) side I think the 1/2" bolts are all 65 lbft. On the cylinder side (LH), I take it that the 1/2" bolts top and bottom are 75 lbft and the very long 5/8" bolt in the middle are 120 lbft. What do you reckon?

Great video Barry, you do well working with limited space. Did you replace the Rock shaft bushings and if so where did you get them from as i'm struggling to find some, thanks.