This is the first video of four about the David Brown tractor 770,780,870,880,980,970,990,...... 1200 , covering the hydraulics, the functions, modes, elements and use.
I have been a nurse for over 30 years and by the grace of God saved a few lives. Truth be told , I have not always felt right about many of them as their state was a future of medical interventions. Now , saving a tractor ? I have felt pure joy in every single one of them ! I just purchased a $500 1966 David Brown 770 from a couple at church. Their grandfather passed away years ago. It was sitting in his field for 5 years. The old junker fired up after a few electric wires we twisted and fuel poured everywhere along with two batteries. The hydraulics don't work, the rear wheel wobbles, the other rim is rotted at the valve stem, every oil and filter needs a change. I was thinking of scrapping it. Then I started watching videos like yours and realized I am not the only guy out there that spends $5000 in the value of my time and another $1500 in parts and supplies to restore a $1500 tractor when it's all said and done. Are we fools ? Why do we do this ? I have done this at least 20 times ! Why I ask , Seriously why ???
@@D3Sshooter Thank you so much brother. Oh , I long to hear everyone's thought on that question. Unfortunately perhaps I put too much value on time. I have been thinking about this question of mine very hard. Perhaps we all need a distractor in life . Tractor restoration in my book is a better distractor than watching TV or playing video games all day in my book.
A most excellent video with just the detail and explanation to help before reading of the manual. I just purchased a 990 and as this is my first utility tractor of this size and class it is a most impressive machine for it's era.
your videos are the best I have seen . I recently purchased a 1977 David Brown 1212 very low hours and everything works. very happy with the machine . please keep your videos coming .. Canada
Thank you for taking the time to produce this instructional video. After watching all four of the videos in your series, I have much better handle on how a David Brown hydraulic system operates. I've owned a 1970 David Brown 990A for 23 years and have been constantly baffled by the "out of control" three point hitch on it. I've also seen others online who are mystified by the same issue. I hope to take what I've learned from your instruction, along with the shop manual I have for the this tractor, and finally come to an understanding of how to stabilize the three point hitch in a set position. Best wishes from Tidewater Virginia
Good video, on to part two! I just got a 1212. Hitch lifts all the time so was doing some research and found your video. Great job. Take care from Alberta Canada.
Very thankful for this!👍 I have a David Brown 990 next to a Ford 5000 and I always found its hydraulics much more difficult to understand and operate in comparison with the Ford. Looking forward to the next videos! Greetings from Luxembourg
This is great information. I have a Case 360 which I believe is basically a David Brown 885. I have never really understand the lift mechanism to get the implements to go up and down. I just keep switching levers and moving things around until it just works. But then ill run into issues with my brush hog in that it lifts up and never goes back down. The manual is hard to follow as well. I have a Ford 1220 and it is just one lever up and down and not tough to figure out. I never figured out how to change modes, but seeing that the lever needs to be pushed all the way back I can at least do that with confidence. Again great information.
On three way auxiliary you always need a third case drain line besides the two pressure and return lines for certain axial piston Hydraulic motors. Excellent instructions Thanks
Excellent information - looking forward to part two. I wish the hydraulics on my Ferguson TE20 were as flexible as the DB990! Just love your channel Steve - great variety of projects, don't change a thing.
I have a case 1190 and it has all of the same functions, in which case all of the labels are wore off, this video explains in depth of which valve dose what, thank you very much. Although mine has a loader for the aux ports which I’d like to just plum them in to the main internal hydraulics but still unsure on how to do that yet but this video definitely helps
Thanks for the video. I have the manual for my 885 but seeing the video has made it much easier to understand. I am trying to add the hydraulic take-off which was not fitted to mine but is listed in the manual as an optional extra. As well as the hoses, it seems I will need to add the valves as well. Fortunately, there is a tractor wrecker about an hour's drive from here (Victoria, Australia) and they have several 885s in various states of dismemberment. I've been planning a visit for a few weeks and if I'm lucky, one of them will have the hydraulic parts I need. I love my DB. I had an 880 before this when I lived in a different state but shipping it was too expensive so I sold it and bought the 885 when I got here. I've had it ten years now and it works fairly hard but has never let me down.
Hi, I'm nearby in Kyabram and have an 880, my first tractor and I love the thing. I'd like to know the wreckers details if you have them as I need a few bits myself. cheers Barry
Great information, I'm thinking about buying a case 990 which I researched to be a David Brown 990 and I want information on anything I can. Everyone seems to have high quality and workmanship as it's best selling points. Otherwise I was considering a international which I'm familiar with. But the 990 covers everything I need except for the weaker front axle compared to IH. But the fuel savings should make up for it IMO. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
That's great video. But there's just not enough time to do all my hobbies and I just bought an 880A to add to my projects. First up - hydraulics followed by new dashboard gadgets. Some fresh paint and a wash she'll be like new.
Hello D3Sshooter! Many thanks for excellent explanaitions in a sometimes troubleing subject. I have a DB 885 (model year 1976) and wonder if I can achieve some kind of "floating" mode on the rear lift arms. It would be good to have when plowing snow. Best regards, Philip (Sweden)
in every video you give the advice of a good preparation, but do you have tips on where you can find de operational and workshop manuals for these older machines?
Thanks for the comments, oldtimer fairs are a good place, but also Google can provide a lot of info... It takes some time to get it all, but is possible
Only mentioning it out of concern for your safety Steve but many people have been killed by starting a tractor engine whilst standing next to the rear wheel. If it is in gear it will instantly set off and once that wheel traps your foot the rest of you is generally going to follow. Tractor safety trainers always insist that you must be in the driving seat before starting the engine. Thanks for a very informative video though ;)
I am working on a David Brown 770 Selectomatic. I cannot get the hydraulics to function at all. The valves are slightly different from what you have, there are 3 knobs on the left side of the tractor when facing forward that you would turn for adjustment. I have no idea why the unit is not functioning, do you have any idea what might cause this. Where should I be setting the levers just to get it to raise up. I have a flail mower attached and it will not move at all. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The tractor has been sitting for about 3 years, it starts and runs fine but no hydraulics.
Considering the large volume of transmission/hydraulic fluid on board I imagine there may be individual shut off valves for working on the various operating hydraulic systems. Perhaps that will be discussed in the next video.
Right , an excellent video on these old but indomitable tractors , I haven,t watched it right through yet , but I have a s/h 1490 , & one of the ( many ! ) problems I bought with it was a severely rattling top link plunger , I removed & stripped it , to find there are 2 short but incredibly strong springs inside it that control / limit the plunger,s movement , my tractor came from North Norfolk , I am finding evidence all over it that it has been used ruthlessly for rotovating , & the outer casting for the top link plunger was absolutely FULL of fine Norfolk Loam soil , we don,t have soil this good here , but this soil had packed out the air gaps between the spring,s coils to the point where the inner spring was smashed , as under compression it simply had nowhere to go . This casting forms the shape of a "blind pocket" there is no way for anything to get out . This resulted in me having to find , then buy another s/h top link assembly , as these 2 springs are now unavaillable , then make one "good" unit out of 2 , & refit & set it . There is NO LUBRICATION feed to these adjustable top link assys ( the 3 - stage adjustable double - acting ones ) so plaster everything in black molybdenum disulphide grease on assembly ( car c.v. joint grease )& always fit a new outer seal , & invest in a top grade one , as this getting chewed up & disintegrating was what caused the fine Norfolk soil to get into this assembly in the first place. Lubrication can be provided to this by twisting out the expansion plug right in the top of this unit , on the inner end of the adjustment lever , by using simply a pair of stout water pump pliers , it,s only lightly tapped in , then pour a modest amount of E.P.90 gear oil in the hole , allow to sink , then refit this plug . The little bowden cable on the right side of the unit IS ALL that operates the hydraulic valving , treat it with great respect , there is no other pushrod or device that works the hydraulics on these Meltham built tractors , it is equipped with a greaser point , please carefully check that this cable is in perfect working order , & moderately greased , it,s important . Right , that,s it for now , I,ll watch the rest later , I just thought I,d share my experiences & acquired knowledge , because that,s what youtube is for , Goodnight .
I had a CIN/David Brown 1594. The best day of my life was when it got flooded by a river bank during a Hurricane the Hydraulics were a frieking NIGHTMARE! Had to be designed by a SYCHOPATH! Two levers for nearly everthing. And just try to get parts in the US. Good Luck! Leaks everywhere, hard to start, noisy engine, JUNK!!!!
Good video! I have a Case (DB) 995 with about 5000 hrs on it. The lift arms work but are slow and require higher engine rpm for heavier loads when hot. I'm thinking the pump is worn but was wondering if you have any ideas on other common issues that would cause the problem.
txs for the comments, oilpump is the first one....could also be the pressure release valve or the return valve that stays partial open or dirty. have a look on the video with hydraulics diagram that might help its on my channel
My 1290 the arms won't go down and only go up revving the tractor about half throttle. Changed filter. Took both valves out under the plate and cleaned them. Maybe spool valve stuck?
Really could use some help. Have had 2 different tractor mechanics look at our Case DB 380CK. We can't get the 3 point hydraulics to function. PTO works fine. Lots of pressure. Took it completely apart and cleaned everything. VALVES ECT. The arms raise when turned on, fairly quickly as well. We currently do not have any attachments hooked up. The arms lower only when the machine is turned off with some pressure added to them, or if you open the bleeder valve on the right side below the seat. We could really use your expertise!
Hi, to be honest it is very common that without any load the arms decent very slowly...often need a bit of help... Remember that descending doesn't require any oil pressure at all , just the valves that need to allow the internal bleeding. You might have some pressure leak on the valves , preventing the arms to go down... meaning that some of those valves might not seal 100% when closed... that would explain why the arms don''t go down with a running engine... I would check first the adjustments of the control ( Spool) valve as that is the one that holds the balance for UP-Hold-and down of the arms. That one might leak internal between the channels or badly adjusted. Try to run the engine, set to lower arms and adjust the valve by turning screw on the top and see when it starts to work...
Dankie vir die video! Ek het grootgeword op 'n klein boerdery gemeenskap dorpie aan die Weskus van die Wes-Kaap in Suid Afrika, met die naam Darling. Darling was 'n Engelse goewerneur aan die Kaap die Goeie Hoop. Miskien weet jy dit, maar die 'DB' in Aston Martin se model no's staan vir David Brown. Lamborghini het ook trekkers gemaak en was ook in Suid Afrika verkoop.
Hi, great video. Could you please tell me what the 3rd gear stick is for on a DB990 12 speed? Some have 3 levers, I think the left stick is for the range (4 ranges) and the right is for gears, some have a 3rd gear stick though? Cheers
Yes , you have on most 3 sticks, the small one is the creeper ( High -Low) , the second is the Range selector (1-2), the third the gear shift. (1-2-3-R)
Hey thanks for the great video very informative I have a David Brown 990 and mine three point hitch arms are up and I can’t get them down and I can’t find a video on how they work any info would be appreciated thanks
That seems backwards. As I understood it, when the drag on the plow increases, pulling back on the top-link, the arms would lift the plow up to make a shallower cut and decrease the drag. So pulling back on the top link should raise the arms, not lower them. I'll have to try that on my 1390 (it doesn't have a traction mode-just depth and height).
Great video. Maybe you can help me. I've got a DB780 with the same hydraulics. I am trying to hook up a loader. My tractor doesn't have the 3-way valve. I've hooked up the supply and return hoses from the loader controls to the connector plate just right of the seat. Is that correct and what setting should I have the selector dial on? Any help would be great. Thanks
Well as far as I know , you will need a 3 way valve somehow. Other wise the rear piston will move along. Its ok to have the return at that spot. but the departure should be controlled by a valve , unless you have that on the loader controls. The middle position will work
@@D3Sshooter The loader has it's own controls but I'm finding that the lifting arms raise all the way up when the loader is hooked up and there is no way to control them. Pretty sure I need the 3-way valve to make it all work correctly. Thank you much.
Hola me gustaria saber si David Brown 995 el aceite hidraulico es 15w40 y del motor es igual y del diferencial va con el de la caja y el toma fuerza . Coloquen por favor en Español la traduccion..
We have a David Brown 1210 fairly old tractor the arms are stuck up position I tried standing on them they won't come down I think after watching this video I might be able to figure it out maybe I'm not heavy enough
Hello just found your channel and subscribed. I have a 1594 rear arms not working they have been plumed up to the asister ram and working of a spool valve was that way when I got it . Any ideas . Have changed the high pressure filter
Hello , I,ve subscribed because I have a recently acquired 1490 that the 3 point linkage just takes an age & a half to drop down on , when you put the linkage lever into full drop position , & I have the speed valve screwed fully into fastest position , I think the hold valve has been welded down but have never yet seen the selectamatic block , it,s inside a cast - iron box on the front of the right half - shaft housing , & one pig to get at with a cab on ! I,ve only just found this vid , & it,s 11.30 pm in england , so I,ll study it all in more sociable time , but I have another selectamatic block on the way as of this evening from a knowledgeable breaker,s yard in Wales . Do you cover this work ( rebuilding the selectamatic valve block on the bench ) in any of your video,s? , I,m thinking of video - ing meself doing this for the benefit of others & the spirit of youtube , anybody want to see it ? Feedback please on here .
Hi Philip, I will do a few video on the hydraulic adjustments and pump replacement. Yet that is a few weeks away.. But by al means share you work with us... please do so
eish Flemish, i wish this was mussey furgusson it is a common tractor here in south africa. the first i heard i heard of david brown. and its operation is different from MF.
Barcley Williams as below , very knowledgeable guy , from near Evesham , Agriline for some parts , from Bromsgrove , helpful staff , but more limited , Richard Pocock , Pocock Tractors , Dorset , John Morgan , Gwynedd Tractors , North Wales , very knowledgeable & helpful guy , anybody else know anybody ? let us know on here .
Hello , your video,s are excellent , I would like a little advice please , I have recently bought a 1490 T : on the main ( internal ) lift ram casting , right next to the left side of the transmission oil dipstick , there is a hydraulic oil hose connection , machined into the flat top surface of the casting , what does the hose connected to this do ? as mine is connected the other end to the no 2 port on the 3 - way diverter valve , & seems to have no function , which means I just haven,t found it yet , or someone has cobbled this together inappropriately , please reply through this video , here at youtube , many thanks .I,m preparing the hydraulics to have a front loader on it . Best Regards from Central England .
Philip, Its hard to tell, maybe a picture would help ... feel free to send it so I can have a look at it. Many old tractors have had many changes over time, some make sense and others don't
Hello , right , I,d better tell you what I found out about the unidentified hydraulic connection I youtubed you about , on top of the back end of the internal linkage lift ram casting ; I phoned one of the parts contacts I have here in England , a guy at Barcley Williams , nr Evesham , who told me it is the low pressure return point for externally serviced oil , & that fed back into the tractor here it is used to lubricate back end bearings , that,s all it is intended for , on mine someone has fabricated a hose to dump high pressure oil from 3 - way valve port 2 straight back into the back axle , to prevent accidental high pressure squeals , it is not a high pressure supply , it,s intended as the drainback point , that,s it . I,ll do a video about it when I,ve cleared my phone , best regards .
This video was amazing i have a david brown and i wasn't sure about it. I have a 1210 and there looks like a big steel filter housing with steel pipes coming out of it down where the lift arm helping ram is would it be a second filter or if not can you tell me what that is for please.. I subscribed also thanks
Hello , although I,m new to D.B. ownership my mates have had them since 1974 , the filter you describe is the high pressure secondary filter , it filters high pressure pump output oil , straight from the pump , before it gets to the valving systems , it therefore is working at about 2500 p.s.i. max , the first filter ( primary ) is located right in the bottom of the gearbox , it filters the suction supply to the pump , therefore works under a slight vacuum , if not just atmospheric pressure , I,m about to change the H.P. secondary on my 1490 , so I,ll do a video of it , in england new filters are currently availlable from Agriline , although not cheap , bear in mind the high pressure they work at . BestRegs from central eastern england .
Hi, I really enjoyed the video on the hydraulics for the David Brown. I have a 770 that I just serviced and changed the transmission / hydraulic fluid. It really improved the way the hitch performed, but now the hitch tries to lift the implement but can't. It stopped holding the implement in height mode and now the arms try to lift but can't. Oil levels are all good. Looking at your video it sounds like pressure is bleeding back through the spool valve. Would you think that's a place to start figuring out what to fix and why the linkage arms won't lift the implement suddenly? I appreciate the advice. Cheers Jock.
Jock, that is in most cases where the issues are indeed.. and also make sure that the mode selector is in the right position ( that happend once to me , in the half wrong position)
@@D3Sshooter Hi again, and thanks for the advice so far. It's hard to diagnose and the local Case contractor is a long way away. I have removed and cleaned the 2 valves accessible through the access cover, and I can see the spool valve moving as I move the control lever. I checked the selector switch is engaged in 'height' mode, and took the back cover off to check the oil flow when the lever is moved. Oil flow looks good inside the cover, but not much changes as I pull the lever up, perhaps a slight more of a spurt backwards from the side of the bypass valve, but nothing of much significance to look at. I took the mower off the back and the link arms lift and move fast and upwards with me on them no problem, but I have to have the engine revs above 1600rpm, lower revs they won't move at all, but at the higher revs they then descend and hold wherever I hold the lever. But when I put the mower back on and take the revs up, the arms will raise until they take the load and then no more. Before I attempt to take the valve chest out, does this sound to you like something else? If I compared it to a water pump I'd suspect either the pump can't build enough pressure for the load or that there was a lack of water, or in this case oil. But the transmission case is full of clean fluid. "HELP D3Sshooter!"
Is there possibility that you review db 1594 or similar? Maybe you can help with ramshaft bracket remove, because it is hard to find that information on internet.
