What an innovative machine! And quite handsome! Btw, the Art Nouveau came in at the end of the Victorian period leading into the Edwardian era prior to WWI. Art Deco arose after WWI, in the mid 1920s. While Art Deco features geometric motifs, the Art Nouveau was known for its fluid organic imagery. I see this Davis as more Art Nouveau.
Hi, I love the video on the Davis vertical feed machine. I have one almost identical to this. Possibly a little older, but I need a bobbin to make it operational. Do you have any information on where I could find a bobbin for this machine?
Do you need the bobbin, or the bobbin ;and' the shuttle it fits in? Either way, finding parts fro these machines is extremely difficult. The fastest solution is to buy a machine for parts and take what you need from it. I checked EBAY and there are a few Davis machines for $100. With shipping that could double. That's a lot to pay for such a small part but it may be your only option. Good luck and thanks for writing!
If you only need a bobbin, one option is to purchase some new ones and modify them to fit you shuttle. Here';s a link to an Amazon offering: www.amazon.com/YEQIN-SEWING-MACHINES-BOBBINS-VINTAGE/dp/B01MZ0IVTR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1N2HZQV4DLLC0&keywords=long+bobbins&qid=1690873315&sprefix=long+bobbins%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-5 This is a gamble because if the shaft is longer, it can be cut down. But, if it's shorter you're stuck. Also, the diameter of the end discs may have to be reduced. I've modified bobbins like this so I know it can be done, but it can take a lot of work depending on what equipment you have to work with.
I have a 1914 model Davis VF in its original treadle. And , yes, the trick to keep the thread from jumping out of the takeup arm is to first loop it behind the back-tack button.
Dear Jo, You recently commented on the New Home Idea sewing machine video I published. But every time I clicked on your comment to reply, your comment disappeared. I've seen this happen from time to time and do n't know why it does so. That's why I'm responding here, because I couldn't do so directly on your comment. I'm sorry the hand crank on your Ideal is broken. If it's just missing and the screw hole in the main wheel is intact, you may be able to find a long screw that fits it in a hardware store, which would let you use it as a hand crank. Though, your solution of mounting it on a motorized table sounds more convenient. Anyway, thanks for commenting!
Your timing is perfect! My current restoration of a Singer 24 would benefit from nickel plating some of the parts so I've been experimenting with it. In fact, I did a plating test just tonight and right now it's in a salt water bath to see how well it protects the steel it's on from corrosion. I have two videos about immersion nickel plating, but this technique is too risky to use on an antique machine, so I'm exploring wand, or brush, plating. It's easier and much more forgiving. There's already many videos about wand plating so I'm not planning on making one, though if used I'll mention it in the video once the machine is done. Thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 I am looking at help with my howe nickel front arm. It is in need of restoration. How did you restore the arm on yours? It looks so nice...
@@joeeveryperson3279 The nickel plating on mine was mostly worn away so I sanded it down to the bare caste iron then worked my way up through 12,000 mesh Micromesh polishing cloths, available from Amazon, then a final buffing with Autosol chrome polish, also available from Amazon, to remove the last of the fine scratches. You can see the process on a different machine on the following video from 9:15 to 11:45: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rpQ2mAGlHNY.html It's a slow process and took me over two hours for that single piece. I considered replating it, as I have some other pieces, but decided not to because replating caste iron has such a high failure rate that it wasn't worth the risk. When done as I did so that the surface has a high mirror finish, it naturally has some rust resistance. Combined with a little metal polish I haven't had any corrosion problems in the years since finishing the Howe. But, if you live near the ocean this might not be the case. I hope this helps. Thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 Thanks again! You have been a great help again. I have made so many of your ideas from a universal treadle base, the poor man's lathe, the gold paint suggestions just to name a few... I don't mind using elbow grease, especially if the end result looks so good. I will not have any issues with the ocean. I live in the northern half of Saskatchewan, Canada. I am currently working on getting the decals to look like yours. I am considering using testors gold paint, or working with gold leaf by spray painting shellac on one side and cutting decals out with scissors just to give them a bit of stiffness. That may be a complete failure but will toy with it after Christmas
@@joeeveryperson3279 Has global warming worked its way up to your area yet? I'm in Southern California and I can tell you from personal experience that over the last 60 years things have warmed up and dried out a lot. Good luck on your machine!
Hi there, I believe the other partner of our company has contacted you a few times regarding your video on our MX24 paint. We are a small business and your video is very damaging to our reputation. I'm sure it was not your intention to post a misleading video where you compare our normal paint to another paint that you first alter by removing most of the medium. Where you portray our paint as not being as bright as the other paint, even though ours does glow brighter, until you remove the medium from the competitor and leave behind only the glow crystals. You strike me as an honest person. I don't think you intend to harm a small business. In the interest of integrity and honesty, I would like to ask you to remove that video. I know my business partner has in the past been aggressive in the way he reached out to you. I wasn't aware that he was doing that, or that your video even existed until he came down with stage four cancer, and I had to step up and take over running the day to day operations. I thought it was worth reaching out and appealing to your sense of integrity, as I am sure you do not mean to portray our product dishonestly. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me personally. csp@glomania.com Thanks kindly HIram
Dear Mr. Bertoch, The goal for my video was to help people find or make the brightest glow paint possible. While I made it clear in the video that I was comparing a concentrated paint to yours, and felt people would see for themselves that this was a biased comparison, I now admit I failed to emphasize that point. While I can't delete the video because it contains useful information, I have (1) rewritten the description to clearly state this test is unfair to you product, (2) apologized for not making this clearer, (3) stated that yours is an outstanding product, (4) activated the comments section so others can comment on the test, (5) posted your comment as the first in the comments section and (6) added a live link to your website in both description and at the end of your comment. I also deleted MX24 from the title. Thank you for helping me address this issue.
