I just did this myself. Even with buying the tools, the concrete, the wood, and the rebar, it was thousands cheaper than having someone do it. Moreover, its is not that hard to do.
First off great job! Second because I know there will be that "guy or woman" who say its not smooth, dry pour doesnt look the same. Dry port can be smoothed out just like the edges were. There are cased like this design that its better having the little roughness to it. This is an area that kids and adults will spend a lot of time on and those markings work great for traction and any high ridges will chip and wear down fast. Not all surfaces need to be glass smooth. I dont know if this was done intentional, but its a great place for some roughness. You can use a paint roller with a six foot handle and smooth it out before the first spraying if you want a smooth look, but most times a mason will use a push broom to etch up any surface that people are walking on anyway. Again GREAT JOB!
How did you make your frame? I want to dry pour a 12 x 12. It would be much easier if I could do four 6 x 6ft squares but I can't figure out how to make the frame. Edited to add: Can I stand on dry concrete with fiberglass rebar halfway through it? Because if I can stand on it, I might not need to break it up. I saw that bag on yours and it didn't sink. Maybe if I stood on cardboard?
A couple other channels pointing out that you should continue to water the first 28 days and even put burlap over the concrete to hold water for a few weeks
why do all those people doing dry pour concrete refuse to wear a mask. its a cement. not good for lungs even when you throw a bag into mixer and when you raking 10 dry bags of it raising it into the air its even worse. so bad for your health... besides that, good job on a pavers.
What was the final depth? I’m doing a 10x15 but in 5x5 sections one at a time . Was going to use 2x4s and go 3 inch’s with paver base to make up for the half inch or quarter inch.
@@timbob987 where did you get that from my comment? The normal/right way would be to mix with water and pour into the forms. You get a more consistent mix, higher strength, better surface finish. A pad this size wouldn’t be difficult for a single person to do.
Good luck with dry pouring. It fundamentally goes agains the way concrete is designed to work. I hope it holds up for you, but have serious doubts that it will. Unfortunately, dry pour is the latest RU-vid diy fad. To me, it’s the equivalent of trying to build a house with wood glue and no nails or fasteners.
With a little common sense it should last. Just don’t put any 18 wheelers on top of the pad. Looks like the man just want a gazebo area to chill. This will do just fine.
I've had a few bags of concrete sit in my garage for over the winter and they became boulders. I've also known people who installed their fence and just poured dry concrete into the hole after the post was in. It set up real hard and tight.
True in some way,but then again. You're walking on it or have patio set on it. Few lbs here there and not thousands of cars. And talking about building houses with no nails. Hmmm, you haven't seen some really good Japanese craftsmanship. They are top-notch when it comes to mortar and tenants.
There are new houses without wood etc. 2 states have them. Virginia & Arizona. There called 3d homes made with cement only. The machine to do it comes from Germany
