Welcome back! Today was failure day! we had a truck in with overheating issues, plus engine knocking! Do we find the problem? is it fixable? is it totally unrepairable? Go check it out to find out! music- VEXENTO- we are one
Nice. better getting into the engine work.Old school on plug in shit Dan in my day. Long screwdriver and her the heartbeat. Spot on bro. come them coming.
I would try backprobing the connector to the rail pressure sensor and see if the feedback voltage to the ecm is the same as you're reading in the scan tool. It seems to be some sort of signal error since the fault codes are all over the place, but this will at least eliminate any wiring issue. The strange thing is that the desired value and actual values are pretty much spot on... If the readings directly on the connector is equal to the readings in the scan tool i would test the sensor and see if it's on it's way to die. Check if the readings on the connector KOEO is erratic or jumping. You can also remove the sensor from the rail, connect it to the plug, backprobe it and try heating it with a heat gun and wach for any voltage spikes. Maybe Daf or sensor manufacturer can supply a known good value from the sensor in barometic pressure. If not the sensor it's more likely to be some problems in a wiring loom somewhere hence the amount of codes at once. Did all the other non-engine related codes appear from the same incident or are they from before the red engine warning?
Check the E Fan wiring they chaffe where the wire loom goes into the thick shrouding. Wires rub through and short together. Remove the engine cover youll see it looking from the top. Common fault that is
great video .I have seen high pressure but usually a pump as the diagnostic info points to pressure sensor but you change that and still the same please keep us informed
The MX11 cam is a lovely little test ..You need to remember to time the small cam that runs the pump units ....For cylinder performance too low ...A compression test along with a cylinder contribution test ,will let you know if it is mechanical ie valve adjustment /camshaft or fuel ie injector..Too high a contribution can be caused due to the too low contribution ,you will have to look at what one occurred first ...A too high could be a damaged injector nozzle and over fuelling..Which can trigger DOC DPF temp DTC:s which i don't think you have ,if you do it is not wise to drive it and the system can be trashed ...I would imagine you have a faulty injector ,Can you do cylinder unbalance on the jaltest ??...But start with a compression test and cyl contribution test ..
It’ll be the first one we’ve done here, yeah I will look at that cylinder unbalanced and see what it comes back as, we’ve been getting a lot of these lately, funnily we’ve got a MX13 engined one in today saying basically misfire on cylinder 2, thinking possibly injector, took rocker off push rod cylinder 2 bent! But we’ve had a fair few camshafts on these.
@@freightlanetv Generally bent push rod equals camshaft .DAF say drop sump and have a look at the cam....If you have no DAC DPF codes and everything checks out it may be easier to clear and give it a good road test ,,As you know it may come back on straight away ..I dont know if the jaltest gives date codes ..MX 11 TDC but it may take 4 revoloutions to line the pumps ..There is a allen plug at the back of the block in a large cast circle ,Remove it and there is a notch that you line up with a mark on the pulley and then you have 4 lines on the cams that line up with the head .i also mark the cam pulley at the front
Had a Mx11 do this with the camshaft and it burnt out an inlet valve too. Ended up being new valves, camshaft, bearings etc. Mx11 exhaust manifolds snap in half also.
@@freightlanetv They are easy .once timed it is a couple of hours ,cam comes with pulleys attached they both have 2 black lines on them that line up with the head ...If i could i would send you the rmi instructions ,but god knows if you can on here ,,Also the timing marks on the flywheel are a pig to find they are small and are on the lip if that makes sense
hi bro.thanks for the sheet bro do you know how long does it take to the MX11 to be at the normal temperature. because I have one here and it takes 30 min the be at it normal temperature..is that good
@@freightlanetv both my friend ehrn idling and on the road .but I feel like it takes too long to be at it temperature 20 to 30 minutes .but normal it should take 5 to 10 minutes to be at that
That camshaft and roller is absolutely fukt, we’ve got a locomotive in the now with a “leg out the bed” no4 “B” bank, piston cooling jet clogged with carbon and bang there’s a hole in the crankcase and oil everywhere, shutdown in traffic with oil pressure, I arrived at it and the front end seat warmer says “aye mate it wont turn over”.... oh really Einstein 🙄, so that’s roof off and engine/alternators out, and a lot of steam cleaning too
@@freightlanetv in our place about a week 😂, realistically if you get a decent squad on it who actually want to work, you can have the roof off and engine disconnected and lifted out in 2 days and same for back in, a day to clean the mess up inside when engine out, talking 5 days, the engine/alternators go away to MTU east grinsted and then get split so the 2 alternators go up to a place in Newcastle for balancing etc, then back down to be coupled on to engine, then whole lot back to us for fitting in loco, the engines are out/in usually on miles/hours, unless they have a major failure, they are mostly reliable
@@freightlanetv I spend most of my time on fault finding and repairs, there is a few teams that do the 3 shift system they do all the “exams” which are inspections, and routine stuff, we’ve 3 fleets at our depot, class 158, 170, & Class 43 HST fleet, I’m hopefully moving soon to an electric depot, see what happens
