The 7/8 volume control trick really made my day. I've had my 408 from day one and didn't know the remote would do this. I'm re-patching my outputs today to take advantage of this. One of my main gripes up to now has been thinking the knob should work as a sub remote too. I'm an idiot.
Lol I thought the same thing, but it would be a pain to use it as a bass knob...too many steps to get to it, especially while driving. Although I have an Arc Audio PS8 Pro now, the Dayton wasn't as bad as some made it out to be...I really liked mine. Glad you found this helpful.
You can also try using tesa tape where the door clips meet the door. My Jeep Grand Cherokee has certain places that vibrate and nothing worked. I found higher bass frequencies were the problem in my case. I filtered out those and have no problem anymore. In my case, those higher bass notes where right where my cabin gain is
Great suggestion! I actually used foam backed sound deadening in another video. I did the same thing you're suggesting. I put it along the B Pillar where it meets the frame... buzzing gone, even on the higher notes. I did it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gSB_fL1Rfiw.htmlsi=2e2c-gmOn-xrAgkH
Hey brother, had finally time to checkout your video. Nice DSP controller, works more or less like the new conductor of Helix. Simple but effective. But that rattle; yes it’s audible and I can imagine it can make you crazy. But more dampening in the doors, whatever product or amount will not solve it. I think it’s window mechanism and the seat belt mechanism. Those you cannot dampen. This is the reason I want to cut out the bottom of my BMW for the Morels. Because normally they breathe into the chassis rails and give a rattle, even with the OEM woofers. Ideally there are 3 options to get rid of that rattle 1. If you have space in the kicks, build them an enclosure in the kicks. 2. If there is not enough space, maybe your car has space under the front seats. Maybe a shallow enclosure under the seats. 3. The most extreme option; cutting the floor pan like I’m gonna do, but are they suitable for that application. I asked Casey before I bought the MW9’s after Casey assured me that they are ideal for that application. I am 100% positive one of these options will solve that problem. Otherwise you will spend money on dampening without any result. Those ID’s are far to powerful to get rid of rattles when they are build in the doors. But rattle or not, they sound excellent!
Thank you Brother, for checking out my video, and the great advice. Yes, that rattle is driving me nuts, or should I say WAS. I found a solution. I too thought it was the seatbelt mechanism, but it turns out it was the plastic covers that rattled/buzzed on the metal frame. So, of course I created an upcoming video, but what I did was removed the plastic panels and added sound dampening and acoustic foam as a go between the metal and plastic panel. Certain frequencies will still cause it to buzz, but it's a level 2 or 3 in comparison to the level 10 you just heard. Now, when I crank the SQL sub, there's nothing I can do. My car is a Toyota Venza, and although I love it (love Toyota engines), it is cheaply made. The BMW frame is much more rigid. I have 3 layers of sound deadening plus acoustic foam on my doors, but with the 8" subwoofers, I'm at the limit of what I can so there, other than using spray sound deadener (like the old school Cascade Audio spray on) on the inside of the door panel. Certain frequencies make that panel buzz, but from the inside, there are small holes for the "grill". So if I spray around that area, without covering the grill openings, I SHOULD be able to stop those higher frequency vibrations. I considered the kick panel, but I wouldn't do under the seat as I think it would vibrate TOO MUCH for my comfort 😁
@@Ahm-Creative Got the Focal 10WM’s. They look almost as new. I gonna test listen them on my test rig. They both measured exactly 2,9 ohms per voice coil! Not a bad deal for €475 a piece…
@@Ahm-Creative I hope they sound as good as they look. The guy I bought them from is even a bigger car audio enthusiast. It turned out that he competes with his cars, and he knew what he was talking about. He now and then buys audio gear, and sells it with a little profit.
By the way, the alternators whine can be a faulty RCA, or a problem with grounding. I would try firstly another RCA’s, and if that doesn’t help try to relocate the DSP or/and relocate the power and ground wiring. Or reroute it with new power and ground cables you probably have laying around in your garage.
Unfortunately, I tried all of the above, and I'm using quality Stinger RCA's. I even contacted Dayton Audio and read many complaints on only car audio forums...it's just one of those things. I even chatted with Dean about it, and he totally hates it. Even he couldn't get the noise out. Luckily, with the noise filters I found, they really do a great job without distorting or attenuating the sound. Neither Casey nor Yacdiel....or anyone for that matter, could tell I was using them, so it's a Bandaid of a fix, but it's working. Now, if I ever decide to compete, I will forego all of the patchy fixes and get a Helix. But for me to be able to find a solution that doesn't take away from the sound quality, I am happy holding onto the Dayton....for now....LOL!
@@Ahm-Creative Then there is indeed a problem with the unit. As long it works with a bit “patching” everything is okay. I also hate it; the E36 had it also, the battery was like all 6 cylinder BMW’s in the trunk. I also put noise isolator to get the most noise out. So, been there, I totally understand it. Eventually you will probably, when the time is right, have to look for another DSP…..
@@Ahm-Creative But think about the solutions I mentioned to get rid of the rattles. Believe me, doors and woofers don’t work. It’s 2 A.M over here, have to get some sleep 💤. Speak you later. Saturday I will get the Focals and try them in my work/chill room, I’ll let you know..
@@umtbozkr2358 Yes, I was at my wits end until I found those hi-end isolators. The traditional brands just didn't work. I think the one's I found are for live instrument amplifiers and home audio, which is why I think they work so well. But I was strongly considering a Helix. I even played with their DSP software to decide if I like it or not. The Dayton is my first DSP, so I have gotten very familiar with it, and honestly didn't want the new DSP learning curve. I know on all counts the Helix is superior...but for personal use, occasional demos and youtube videos, I will stay here.
@@Ahm-Creative You are right, after all these years I still can use my trusty old Alpine 701 with just the remote. No laptops needed. Helix is more complicated, but is actually quite user friendly considering what it can. Now I’m really gonna sleep. How late is it in Vegas?
Did you ever solve the door noise? I think the noise is from the two types of plastics coming together. Small gaps. Maybe foam tap. In case yoi have not solved it.
I actually did and you are absolutely correct. It w the plastic paneling vibrating on the metal for an B-Pillars. And I did just that...I put a foam insulated type sound deadening along the edges of the panel that met the metal and my problem was solved. I made a video of the install as well.
I've been checking your videos and I must say I'm impressed. I'm 51yrs and I'm still into car audio . I have a question for you. I'm preparing to install my system in my 04 Mercedes E500 wagon. I have just about everything except 2 or 3 pieces. Mind you most of this equipment I've owned since the early 90's and late 90's.. I'm going to install an a/d/s system with an old school RF sub. I have a total of 10 speakers with 8 of them running active. Rear doors will be passive. My question is can I run 2 Dayton audio 408 dsp's? One on the front outputs and the other on the rear outputs. I don't have that kind of cash for Audison, Helix or Mosconi that has that many outputs. My equipment is in excellent condition. I took care of my stuff over the yrs.
Thank you for watching, and the kind words brotha! Us old heads still in the game gotta stick together... lol! You have some high quality gear! I've heard a/d/s but never owned them, but they sounded magical! And Classic RF subs are legendary! As for your install, I can only assume you'll be powering your rear passive speakers through your amp and dsp as well, and not powered by your head unit, like I have mine. So you would definitely need either a 10 channel or 2nd dsp. I would think you can run a 2nd dsp without major issue, by using the front RCA output of your head unit for one, and the sub or rear RCA output for the 2nd dsp... but the issue would lie within the software. What I mean is, you wouldn't be able to control each dsp separately as you most likely wouldn't be able to install it on your laptop or phone separately. It would only install once, to control one dsp... you wouldn't be able to separate the two....unless you have another laptop. Other than that, I see no way to have 2 dsp's of the same brand on the same computer, and as far as I know, you can't daisy chain them either.
@@Ahm-Creative That's what I was wondering if I could daisy chain them together. You just can't beat the price point on the Dayton. Running 2 of them is still astoundingly cheaper than anything on the market that has 10 or 12 channels of output. I'm trying to get a local guy to sell me his Mosconi 6 to 8 or his helix 8 channel DSP for $350 or 400. He wants 500 for each of them. Which still is reasonable, but with 2 Dayton DSP 's and I will have 12ch. I just have to get used to Dayton's parametric eq. I'm not that experienced with them like I am with a graphic EQ. Thanks for your input.
@@user-in9et9hv4n I wish you could, but unfortunately you're stuck with one. I loved my Dayton as it was very easy to use, and sounded great... with the exception of engine noise. I now have the Arc Audio PS8 Pro and it was a game changer. Still only 8 channels, but that's perfect for my build.
Hey, I’m literally obsessed with this DSP especially for the price point, just like you I’m an old head in the car audio scene. So as you get older with “old people responsibilities” lol when u see a value like this you wanna jump on it right, but the one thing that scares me is the noise from the remote I keep hearing about. Reading through your comment I see you were able to fix that.. would u mind sharing with me exactly how you were able to do this? I know you spent some time gain matching and used noise filters, but can you shed a little more light on that please? And another thing, what components were u running in this video? They sound absolutely amazing
What's up my brotha, and thank you for watching my video...I'm glad you found my channel. Yeah man, 30-years in the game now, and I love it like my first day. This Dayton DSP is nice, but I have upgraded since this video. However, the Dayton did serve me well, and contrary to most reviews out there, it wasn't the remote that introduced noise...it has the same noise with or without it, or at least mine did....but with these hi-end noise isolators, I was able to get the noise down to a bare minimum that you'd have to focus on to hear, and they were the only one's that worked for me. www.amazon.com/XtremPro-Hi-end-Ground-Isolator-High-fidelity/dp/B01A56CMUO/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_7/138-5754669-1773164?pd_rd_w=dibLa&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=0CR67A12NHZTSCEEA58W&pd_rd_wg=I7IUY&pd_rd_r=e3e383cd-159e-4b5e-b3ae-6a483c9f31b4&pd_rd_i=B01A56CMUO&psc=1 I did do a lot of gain adjusting and level matching, and what worked best for me was a tad more gain than necessary, and much lower levels that usual to help keep the noise down, and it worked. If you're running a 3-way active set, you will need two of those isolators. One for the highs, and one for the midrange, but I didn't have issues in the lower frequencies of the mid and sub bass. The components I ran in this video were the Morel Elate Carbon Alto tweeters, Morel MM3 midrange, and Morel Hybrid MW6-MKII, but I have since upgraded and I am now "finished" with my ultimate fantasy build. Now, I'm running the Elate Carbon Alto Tweeters and MM3 mids still, but I have upgraded the Hybrid 6.5's to the Morel MW9, and I am now running an Arc Audio PS8-Pro dsp. If you have time, I would encourage you to view my latest full video where I do a full SQ-L demo. This is the best tuning I've done, and it is perfect to me. Please listen with headphones if you can, to get the best sound. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QTR_rcBkV0w.htmlsi=u-2ruQxuEI_f9y6q
@@Ahm-Creative oh wow man! Yea I love hybrid audio! I run their amps and they are great! A little bit of a hassle to deal with hybrid as a company as they are small but still excellent gear! As for the arc audio, I’m actually contemplating grabbing a blackbird because it’s just an animal of an integration tool, but I’m gonna checkout their DSP right now! On another note, your system sounds absolutely incredible here so I can only imagine this next video I’m about to watch! Just knowing your a fellow “old head” like myself and seeing you still going strong is EVERYTHING! That’s cool AF dude! And such a genuine guy! You’ve definitely got a loyal subscriber on this side!
@@chrisdenicola4336 I truly appreciate the kind words my man and subscription! Car audio gives me LIFE, and makes me feel like a kid! As for the Hybrid, I actually meant the Morel Hybrid speakers...I'm all Morel when it comes to my mids and highs...the sound is just magical to me. I'll post a link for the speakers I used to have. As for Arc Audio, they are killin' it! If I didn't have my Zapco amps, I'd definitely be running Arc, or Audison...I had an LRX-4 back in the day, and I'm STILL MAD I sold it...LOL! One of the cleanest amps I've ever owned, but my Zapco's are serving me well now and have no desire to change them. I really think you'll like my upgraded sound now. I've building and tuning on it for 3-years, and finally hit the sweet spot I was chasing, so now it's all about pure enjoyment. This is what I had, and they were awesome...but now I have 9" mid bass drivers in my front doors. www.crutchfield.com/S-YYiIs2yQQGm/p_210HYBMW6M/Morel-Hybrid-MW6-MKII.html?XVINQ=GM0&XVVer=187Q&awcr=625851070960&awdv=c&awnw=g&awug=9052943&awkw=kwd-1391739717347&awmt=p&awat=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3tCyBhDBARIsAEY0XNmo-oNzVB7opX5R1JbCstfr_sEjEX8F-t2yahxnSheFGhCe-KfD4cgaAkIZEALw_wcB
@@Ahm-Creative oh hey man, quick question I forgot to ask, I’m assuming when you were talking about gain matching you meant turning the downon the DSP side and raising it on the amp side after the noise filter was what helped you eliminate the noise? Or did I get that backwards?
@@chrisdenicola4336 You are absolutely correct. That balancing act seemed to work best for me. A little higher gain on the amps after the filter, but nowhere near full, and lower output levels on the dsp until you find that sweet spot. But I know for sure on that dsp, when the levels are high....50 and above...it gets NOISY, like some of the eq's from back in the day...LOL!!
Hey was going on bro im subscribed to your channel love the content and i know you have moved on from the Dayton im just now trying it out but I'm having such a crappy time with it i can't get any sound out of it everything is hook up right i don't know how to use the mixer i eventually got sound out 9f it but sounds so crappy any and all advice would be helpful thank you.
Thank you brotha....I appreciate you subscribing more than you know. Thank you! As for the Dayton, I actually liked that DSP, so I will do all I can to help. As for the mixer and output...I'm going to start from the beginning, and I don't want to be insulting, but I'm going to mention every step, just so I don't miss anything....troubleshooting. Head unit RCA output....the Dayton can work off front and rear inputs, or just front....so I'm assuming you have either, or both as inputs into the Dayton? My next question...is your head unit centered...not faded front to rear, or left to right? If both of those are set, moving onto the DSP...I'm sure you have the proper outputs going into your amp inputs. What level is the gain set on your amp? Of course it's not a volume knob, but for this discussion, let's say you have your gains set to "half". The Dayton has output volume levels, and a mixer. Let's just use Channels 1 & 2. On mine, using the app, I would have the output level on the top set to 55 out of 60, and for the mixer of the same Channels 1 & 2, I would have them set to 30 or so. The Dayton is a bit noisy (engine noise), so keeping the mixer level down as low as you can get it makes a huge difference. Also what's important with the mixer is, on Ch 1 & 2, you will see IN1, IN2, IN3, & IN4. IN1 is used for channel 1, and IN2 is for channel 2. IN3&4 aren't used and should be left at 0. So, IN1 would be at 30 with IN2, 3&4 at 0. Then for Ch2, IN1 would be a 0, IN2 would be at 30, and IN3&4 would be set to 0. And if you want to go further for Ch3&4, the Ch3 IN1&2 would be at 0, and IN3 would be at 50 or so, depending on your set up with IN4 would be 0. Then, for Ch 4, IN1, 2&3 would be at 0, and IN4 would be at 50 or so....and so on for the remaining output channels 5-8 Now, the slightly confusing part might be that Ch1-4 mixer levels are set, so when you do Channels 5-8, you'll treat them the same way you did for Ch 1-4. Basically, Ch 5 will be like IN1, Ch6 will be like IN2, Ch7 will be like IN3, and Ch8 will be like IN4, but with different levels, depending on your setup. Hopefully, that wasn't too confusing....but if it was, reach out again and I will do my best to help. But, if you get those settings similar to what I gave you, you should starting having output from every channel.
@@Ahm-Creative Thank you so much I will give that a try after work tomorrow I spent 3 hrs today and got no where but also I didn't have this info either also one more thing I didn't initially have sound then it appeared but I also noticed it faded out completely and I turned the car off iPad off and it started again then stopped I believe I have everything hooked up right I just unhook my prv DSP to give this a try but I will definitely try your steps thank you again.
@@goldy542 right on! I hope it does help you get somewhere. It sounds like the issue you're having is with the mixer input channels, so once you get those set up, you should get solid volume levels from every channel. As far as sound coming in and out with the iPad, how was the volume level on the iPad? Hopefully it was all the way up...so you use your head unit as the master volume. If you get stuck again, don't hesitate to reach out....that's what I'm here for.
Thank you brother! I have since got my settings right, so all future videos should sound even better than this. I am using the Zoom H2N. My phone recordings were terrible.
Mine had a terrible amount of noise too, but with proper levels adjustments and gain matching, along with the high end noise filters I used, the noise is completely gone. Sucks you have to do all that, but for the price point and how user friendly it is, I decided to keep it. I was considering the Audio Control DM-608 or JL TWK-88, but the functionality is the same at a much higher price....it wasn't worth the upgrade for me.
I tried that...another user suggested it...but the unit wouldn't turn on. Not sure if mine is defective, but it is the 2nd one I got from Dayton. They can be used for home theater systems, so I would have though they would turn on without the remote wire...I even created a separate remote lead from the fuse box, as well as a relay...same result. But by using the high end ground loop isolators, my Dayton is noise free.
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