DCC for a Blue Box Athearn Loco (88) 

Boy that sneaky Larry never though of swapping the motor clips! Brilliant!!!

Thank you so much for this video. I have an Athearn Blue Box SW1500 in Conrail livery. I have had it for over 10 years and always wanted to convert it from dc to dcc. Now, thanks to your video I have the knowledge required to take on this task with confidence.

I wish there were more DCC install videos online. It makes it less scary to attempt this at home by yourself. Thanks for doing this.

It is very rare that you get to see video's about adding DCC to those types of locomotives. I loved it. I do have one small suggestion. When you solder the motor wires on take the clips off so you don't melt plastic.

I've found it's best to remove the contact clips on the motor BEFORE soldering to them to avoid melting the plastic motor cradle.

With this video, I was just now able to wire up my Athearn CNW GP50 and it works! Thank you for making this and now I feel more confident in my work. Plus now I can convert all my other athearn locomotives to dcc too.

Great video and a very clean install. The only thing I would recommend is to remove the Athern Brush covers before soldering on them. I have seen too many people melt the black plastic on the motor and then you can no longer clip it closed. If you overheat the copper brush cover it goes flying when the plastic melts. I'm not saying that I ever did that...

Larry, this was a great video full of tips and tricks. That install went great. As always I learned some more about DCC decoder installs. Thanks for sharing. Ken

great video I'm new to wiring up decoders and this was very helpful thank you

Thanks Larry! With you guidance I converted my first locomotive. An SW 7 that my Uncle gave to me thirty years ago. I even put in the LEDs you recommended. I did have some issues but I learned from them.

I've done several blue boxes, but always interesting to learn a few new tricks.

Thanks Larry- your videos gave me the confidence to try installing Dcc with sound in two Blue box Athearn engine. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I did tear down the trucks cleaned, greased and oiled the proper parts. The engines improved greatly. I used the Digitrax SHD166 decoders and they sound great. I even brought the Digitrax PR4 and downloaded the proper engine sound (U33 and GP 60). Thank you again your explanations are very helpful.

Thank you sir! Have a sd40-2 b&n I bought in 1999. Still new in box until today. For sentimental reasons, going to detail it and do this.

This is twice in one week you have provided critical information! I have an old SW2 I bought for next to nothing at an antique store. Didn't even know who made it. I cleaned it up as best I could but it never ran very well. Well now I know it's an Athearn and it looks exactly like yours inside. So with your help I took it apart and cleaned the trouble spots, and now it works great! No DCC for this one, though. It'll just run on my DC shelf layout. Thanks again, Larry.

Great video....very informative. I am about to get back into HO and have some Blue Box engines I don't want to stop using...so this is perfect to bring them to the modern era. Also, I must say, I watched more than 3/4 of the video when I finally recognized the shell. The River Street Rambler! I grew up in Savannah and remember it running down River Street...great memories! Thanks!

Thank You só much.I love Athearn locomotives ❤ 2:54

Very thorough, Larry! As some others have said here, there aren't too many GOOD Videos on DCC installation of older Locomotives, like the venerable Athearn Blue Box. I didn't even try one myself, because I wouldn't have been clear enough on everything a newer Guy would need. Unfortunately, there ARE a Few Guys who were convinced that they were the last word... I GOT it - because I've been doing DCC installs for 24 years, starting back in the "ugly days" when absolutely NOTHING was plug and play - and programming was a nightmare!! 😖😖 My concern wasn't that I thought the instructions given were STUPID, with gaps and vague points... I was more concerned for the beginners - looking for guidance in something that, to the Novice, might as well be Rocket Science! Judging by the Comments, many were left a bit bewildered. ONE Channel (name withheld) gave condescending retorts to the questions!!! 😠 So yeah, you're doing quite a service!!! 👍👍 You know, on BB Locos.... I've often ran into the issue of poor ground contact at the Truck pivot point. That's why I always solder my Track Feed wires, positive and negative - to BOTH Truck Side frames. You know, the Sheet Metal that the Axle Bushings ride on.... As it's all too easy to get too much heat on those Plates (and a Novice would definitely be pouring on the Heat, trying to get the Solder to melt and adhere to the Steel)... I solder the Decoder Leads to the Brass Rivets, that holds the Truck Frame together. It's quick, painless, and easy!! You just have to make sure that none of the wires foul the swivel area. It's a POSITIVE connection, and doesn't rely on the Pot Metal Chassis to carry Current! 😉 ..... I'm sorry! I always leave such LONG winded Comments!!! 😖 It's just that I'm pretty isolated here, but have a lot to share. I want my Decades of experience to go SOMEWHERE useful.... And maybe, my experience can augment YOUR Decades of experience, because you reach so many People! Many of which are trying to learn, while being inundated with misinformation that the Internet is all too good at! 😞 So Larry, you can take it or leave it. I just really want to pass my knowledge down to SOMEONE. And I really don't have a good Video presence!! 😜 Carmine ✈🚂🚙

Exactly what I needed. Thank you. Learnt lots about the innards of a Blue Box I was not aware of!

Excellent tutorial. You make it so simple and concise. It was kind of odd not to hear the locomotive. I've gotten use to all your locos having a sound decoder.

First, confirm that the "Train Engine" that you are going to work on is fully functional and operatable before you perform a DCC upgrade on it. There's nothing like completing the entire upgrade, and then finding out that the unit has a bad motor. It's typically much better to find the bad motor first, before performing the entire upgrade, and then finding out that the motor is bad. Double foam tape is an insulator, insulating the bottom of the motor from the chassis. No reason to be swapping electrical connection clips on top and bottom of the motor. The foam tape electrically isolates the motor by insulating the electrical connection.

Very very helpful video! Thank you for posting!

Thank you Larry, this video will be a big help.

Very useful this video, I have 2 GEVO BB... thanks for share your know-how!

Hi came across your channel today and have watched a couple on dcc and really enjoyed them so i have subscribed to your channel they are really great an informative on how to Mike (United Kingdom)

Love your videos. I have made a very handy 3d printed mount for the decoders to sit atop the motor. Held in by the motor spring clip. I think this will help alot of installs. If you have a 3d printer I have the 3d files uploaded to thingyverse under athern blue box decoder mount. Or athern. Your welcome!

Soldiering on the truck leads and other metal(the shiny metal) I remember as being a real pain. My solution was to drill a hole in the metal and install a brass screw, nut and washer. The brass washer was much easier to soldier onto.

I like how you just did the swap of the motor contact strips, nice and simple. Also, I use a T-15 or T-20 Torx screwdriver to push out the motor mounts.

Greetings .So that's what my friend did to a few of my locomotives back in the mid 1990s Great Video and I would almost say that even back in mid 19 s locomotives did come DCC ready. I can't remember what the other color wires were for , that were not connected but most probably for application that a blue box Athearn loco had no purpose. I am thinking of getting back into the hobby. Great Inspirational video .Thank Yo so much.

Thanks Larry, I have a few Blue Box Athearn and Blue Box Life-Like that have never been out of the boxes yet.

nice video Larry thank you i hope you found the brush spring that dislodged itself lol! cheers David and Jenny

When i soldered the wire to that motor brush clip i removed it to prevent the melting of the plastic and then solder it. . You can also buy new motor mounting pads to replace the broken ones. I like the idea of running a wire between the 2 truck metal tabs . I will do that next time.

Just wired up my first dcc loco! it's a Sp f7A black widow

Larry, thanks for this video. I watched it about six months ago and finally have some decoders to Install. Also, you mentioned Litchfield Station as a place to get items. I have been there twice in the last two days and mentioned to Jack about your shout-out. If anyone is in the Phoenix area he has plenty of items to assist you. 5% discount if you pay in cash.

That metal bracket holding the light bulb is for the light bulb itself as the negative leg. The negative leg for the actual motor is underneath the motor on the frame itself.

Great help i have a few blue box locomotives i am converting them to dcc am from Northern Ireland so or hornbys locomotives have different moter so very helpful

Great video, I have three Athearn blue box locomotives that need DCC installed, new units just old stocks

I have an old Athearn bb sw1500 SP switcher that this is the perfect video for me to follow and update my switcher. What size kapton tape did you use for this project ?

Saw the Bolt cutters and was wondering what they were going to be used for. What I do instead of using the frame pickup for the left rail I solder a wire to the metal side frame behind the plastic side frame on each truck and run the wires thru the frame. Another tip is to solder the motor feeds like you did but not while installed on the motor thst way you won't melt the plastic. Great how-to video on doing this install. Can't wait to see the LED light install.

These are Great Train motor's !!

As I look to launch into DCC your comment as to old motors current draw and poor DCC performance will cause me to consider which old engines will be converted. A video as to this subject would be most useful

I solder wires to the trucks for a direct connection so I don't have to rely on the frame to make good contact with the pads. Gets rid of that potential point of failure altogether and I don't have to care if it gets dirty there.

Like the video I do have one question I was always told to run a DC loco before I hard wire is this a hard and fast rule. Also what temp do you set your solder iron? Thanks

Hi Larry. New to your channel. Love all of the informative videos. Question. I have a Blue Box SDP40F that I want to convert to DCC. I like the Soundtraxx decoders the best. To get the best operation should I upgrade the motor and the trucks? If so what would you recommend for them and the decoder? Thanks so much.

Thanks for this really great video, it was very educational and the close-up shots were great! Question, one of my old Blue Box units is an Athearn F7 they labeled as "Super Power" (or something like that), basically a standard unit with a giant metal weight on it. I'm assuming there's no way to retain the weight after doing the decoder switch-out, don't think there's enough room for both the weight and decoder in there. But asking in case you know of anyone doing that!

Great video Larry, A couple of observations Im a Hakko user as well, What was the bolt cutters used for?

Excellent! Very straight forward tutorial (and quite relaxing to watch, if I do say so myself!). What kind of solder and flux are you using?

Nice😀

In have done several doc conversations on athearn blue box loco.for those of you who hate to solder try this. Attach dcc leads by slipping wire under the clips to the motor.dont loose the springs.when he clip is snapped back in place it will hold the wire firmly.i have locos running for 5 years with no trouble. Got the truck leads Lowe’s and Home Depot have female lugs that fit them perfect.just crimp the wire to the lug and slip it on.you may have to cut down the stem on the truck if it’s to long. The negative wire for the light can be installed by drilling a small hole to the frame of the loco.

When you were cleaning the contact surfaces between the trucks and the frame you might want to try an electrical contact cleaner to help shine it up such as CRC or other electrical contact cleaner.

How do you know to connect the grey wire to the bottom motor clip? Is there Digi- Trax instructions to show what wires get connected to what polarity and shows what color wires go to what accessories? I.E. bells; horns, lights & whatnot. I'm new at this, don't know if I'll even have a chance to do any of this. But you sure do a good job of explaining things. And... your very Blessed to have a chance to do, Railroad Modeling. Do you have a video on how to install a newer more compatible motor for DCC? And or is there something you can install to make the older motors....safer and more compatible with a DCC system? Cause cost efficiency matters! Thank you, for your time and letting us enjoy your hobby with us. So many videos, so little time. So much Railroad Modeling so little time? "Labor" of enjoying a hobby! or something you enjoy!

Does anyone happen to know what size dog done would work for a BB U33B?

Helpful video. Got decoder working but only one LED. Disappointed the wiring for LEDs was skipped in the video.

Larry I have installed several decoders to most of my BB fleet. I have one in particular that is giving me fits and im hoping you can help me out. It has burned up 3 decoders. At first i thought the motor have have shorted internally, so i replaced it with an older grey steel case motor, still having the same problem. Next i went with replacing one truck that with a volt meter was getting continuity on both the left rail to the right rail, fried that decoder as well, I thought I had found the problem, when i put the engine on the tracks my system was showing overload, when I moved the engine it was getting sparks between the frame and the truck, so I naturally thought the truck needed to be isolated from the frame via fiber washers, there went the 3rd decoder. What am I missing here??? Great video btw,,excellent break down of a classic tried and true engine, the original Athearn Blue Box made in good ole USA.

I have a couple DD40’s that I want to set up with DCC. Scents they have two motors would I use two decoders?

hi... great vid and explanation on how to update and old DC engine. I'm upgrading some of my old DC locos but i have a question. the decoder i have states that the red wire has to go to the right rail (+) and the black wire has to go to the left rail(-), but depending on how you position your loco on the layout the wheels and the body might pick up either + or -. how do you work this around? or is it just me asking a stupid question. thanks!

Great project I have a Athearn BB GP9 so these same steps work? Would any decoder work as well not sure which DCC system I will install yet. Thanks

I want to replace motor on sw1500, blue box switcher can you recommend a place to buy. I want to go 2mp to 1amp

Love your Educational videos ,that u put out ,ive have ho that is dcc ,but i have few other set that r O scale one g scale ,there dc about 10 year old Lionel ,g scale can it Will it be feasible to convert to DCC Just asking

What motor would you use as a replacement for better locomotive movement? THANK YOU.

Larry could u possible show how to install a lok sound decoder with a sugar cube speaker into a proto 2000 GP38-2. I have trouble trying to install into this one and get the best sound out of it

What decoder would work best on a SD-40 SP Athearn for 2 way headlights and a gyro light? Then sound decoder for at least one speaker narrow enough for the SD-40 body? Thank you much! Were you a teacher in your first life? Too many DCC experts go too fast for me. I’m the Rip Van Winkle for DCC. I started HO Scale model railroading as a teenage mutant Railfan. Then hired out on the Santa Fe for 12” to the foot model railroading. It was hell on wheels after the Arab oil embargo in 1973. So I didn’t have much time to keep up with the new model technology. Now that I’m retired most clubs have made the switch to DCC. Plus I’d like to get my son back into it with some of his old 1980 era Athearn blue box locos. I bought him the SP 1984 LA Olympic SD-40 by Athearn back in 1984. So now I’m going to try installing a decoder. What decoder would work best for 2 way headlights and a gyro light? Then sound decoder for at least one speaker narrow enough for the SD-40 body?

I need to know how to go from DCC to DC on some of my locomotives where the DCC has shorted out?

I Just bought 2 Atheran engines and was wondering how easy it would be to convert them to dcc, seems pretty easy. Do I have to add the tape or can I still use the mounts on the motor as long as the contact isn't touching the frame?

I am not an expert in soldering. But I was taught the stuff you solder to is held in place (motor, wires and such) and your hands manipulate the iron and the solder. Partly because the solder get melted, and you have to move the iron to and from the items being soldered. I love the video otherwise because it is instructional

Hello again. I followed this video for my first install in a blue box. When it came for me to mount the speaker and capacitor, I had to mount them to the roof of the shell. Could I leave metal track pickups instead of cutting them off to allow a place to mount the speaker and capacitor? I'm doing two F7A's today. The last one was GP35 and after adding LED's it works great. Took some time to get all the wires in there. That leads to another question. Can I remove the wires that are not needed from the decoder?

Been avidly soaking up info from your videos, thanks; I have some old Hornby trains I would like to put encoders in with sound if possible. Is it any more difficult than this?

How do you attach the black wire to the frame if there's no light hook up. I can't get the solder to stay.i be scratched it sanded it, drilled a small hole, not sure what ekes to do

Haven't watched the full video yet, looks like you can put a RTR mainboard on that and put in a plug in decoder.

Thanks for the step by step. Could you have added a speaker to that decoder? I want to add some decoders to some blue box locos. I want to use soundtraxx. How would they be secured ? I have another question. I recently installed a soundtraxx decoder in a loco. Motor was isolated, all wiring was done correctly, unit was working then a little while later it wouldn't work, it was flashing a error code pointing to a motor fault. I replaced it with a brand new motor, same result. I tried resetting the decoder, no improvement. I removed all the wiring and the decoder, checked for shorts in the trucks, trucks to the wrong g side of the frame, can't find an problem, but end result is it shorted out the decoder but I don't know why.

Great video. How do those light look for a steam locomotive or do you have a better recommendation? Thanks.

Larry, I've been using this adapter board for my blue box decoder installs. Seems to work out pretty well. www.esu.eu/en/products/accessories/adapterplatinen/21mtc-adapter-board/ I swap the brush holder clips like you do but I use push-on wire terminals on the contacts you broke off. Makes it easy to remove the trucks without soldering. Watch out for paint on the truck metal axle supports which prevents good electrical contact from those square axle bearings. In the past I've used Digitrax decoders exclusively but these days I'm buying German decoders just because I like their features.

Can you use the Digitrak Decorder with a NCE system?

I just started doing a blue box install and all the connections are right, but I am getting poor track pick ups. Any tips to get better connections? I believe my problem is the connection to the frame

Did you find it to be somewhat quieter while it ran on the track?

What type of soldering iron did you use?

Could a n scale sound decoder be used in this loco?

Thanks for video. I am going to try the dubble siding tape. Cleaning the trucks and gears. What oil or grease do you recommend?

Do you lube older locos that have been boxed up for so long?

👍👍👍

Do you have a video describing more about motors? Best motor. Flywheel vrs none flywheel

Hi Larry I need some info to add dcc to very old locos for n scale. Can you give me any info. Thank you.

Watched your Video. I have same loco. Installing DCC was fairly straight forward. The lights are giving me a problem. Did not see what you did in video. When I connect the two legs with resistors to the blue lead and the front and rear to white and yellow, both lights come on at same time.(in reverse or forward). How did you connect your wires for the lights? I must be missing something simple but would appreciate your help. Thanks.

Can a decoder from a Proto 2000 be used in a Athearn? Or are decoders programmed for a specific brand only?

You should see how i install a decoder in a blue box you will like the tweaks i make to this it's abt the same but I've worked out a bug or two in the wiring

Does the zap keep the headlight lens from fogging, when the LED is glued in place?

I want to run my Athearn GPs long end forward and want to know if it is possible to exchange the trucks to accomplish this? I am running DC now but want to go to DCC in the future.

Try using a mother board and plug in a 21 pin decoder. A lot less wires, and a lot neater installation.

I don’t know how you get your solder to stick to those truck posts. I used 3 different types of flux, 2 different kinds of solder, and it still wouldn’t hold.

What gage is the wire that you use?

can you just remove the metal clips to make the solder connection? It seems like that would make it a whole lot easier. That being said, this guide has made my life a lot easier, well it's made my model railroading a lot easier.

I was hoping to find the link you mentioned for the LED's but I can't find it. Thank you

I can't find a DH142 anywhere online, would a DH166 work?

I installed a decoder while watching your video exactly how you did it. When I put it on the track I get a overload message, can you help with this?

When do we get to see how all those wires were shoehorned into the shell? Or is that footage not safe for public exhibition? Seriously though, how do you keep all of those wires in there from rubbing against the mechanism?

Morning...I'm sorry I meant blue box locomotives not blue point.

Nice job but you did the easy install. How about a sound decoder and, because this is a short wheelbase, how about a keep alive?

Hello, so I happen to have an Athearn switcher of the type you have from way back (90s') and have converted it to DCC with a LaisDcc decoder good for 2A. I ordered it last year and only put it in recently as per your video, and will be testing it shortly. If it doesn't go poof, I have several other loco's from the 90's I would like to convert. But, given the difference in motor quality from then to now, i would also like to switch the motors out. I want to do it on the cheap, but not too cheap, so I am looking at ordering some from China. That would be great if the quality is improved at least over what I have in there now, and with any luck, comparable to what's on the American market. Of course the fit is the main issue, and if you've had any experience is such an endeavor, your input would be greatly appreciated. The motors I have found so far are like 5 for $27, plus some on EBay. Thanks again!

you so much

How do I know wich decoder I need for my locomotive?

I am joining a ho scale club, and I need a Dcc locomotive, what would be a good loco to buy?