DCC Tips, Let's talk dirty (track) (33) 

Larry: Watched the Marklin video, thanks - back to IPA or lighter fluid. I am building a Conventionally Controlled, PW, O-guage, 3-rail, tubular track (Lionel 0-31) layout (5'X10'). There are two, concentric main line loops connected via four (4) turnouts, connected back-to-back, forming a "bell" curve shape between the two mains. There are no spacer tracks separating the turnouts. I will use a PW Lionel ZW transformer to power the two mains (A-U and D-U terminals) with separate "hot" busses. Accessories, lights and turnouts will have separate "hot" busses powered by a combination of other transformers and the constant voltage terminals on the ZW. Can you kindly recommend a wiring book or books, that will guide me thru the wiring of the layout? I am most confused about how to wire/insulate the four (4) turnouts as they will separate the two mains, electrically. I also want to maintain the anti-derailing feature of the turnouts. The modern books I have looked at seem to focus on digital control methods (MTH or Lionel) instead of the conventional that I wish to run. Many thanks, Jim King

I started using Goo Gone and 70% rubbing alcohol a few years ago. I notice how clean it gets my tracks. I use the rubbing alcohol to clean my nickel silver wheels on my rolling stock and locomotives too. Don't use hard sandpaper as it will 'pit' the rails. light grit sandpaper can work as long as you do it sparingly.When using light sand paper, remember to run it in only ONE DIRECTION. That way it wont damage the rails. I use Q-tips dip in either solution.

I always tell people, if you think your tracks clean, clean it again. The same goes for wheels.

I also in severe situations have noticed a Dremel with a wire brush does a fantastic job

Remember that if you are using a dry form of abrasive it will leave it's own dust which needs to be vacuumed up or it will migrate back onto the track

Use the "rough side" of Masonite squares cut in to 1" x 2" squares, impregnated with 91% alcohol to clean your track. Dirt sticks to Masonite, and no leftover crap on the rails. Throw the squares away when they get dirty. A 4x8 sheet of Masonite is $8 at HomeDeopt and will make a lifetime supply of cleaning squares. It's also called "tempered hardboard"

I can't believe that you advocate using water any where near your rails, let alone on them !! The metal is Nickel/Silver which is still far less than 304 Stainless and definitely less than 316 Stainless Steel, which can resist any rusting. If your going to use IPA which will need to be used regularly, at least use 99.9%, not 70% as that's 30% water !!! If you want to keep dust off your rails then use something simple and cheap like Gaugemaster Axle Hung Cleaning pads; with or without IPA or cleaning solution on them.

Very nice overview, I had not known about the googone. My biggest pet peeve is having a dirty track

Thank you for mentioning fine sanding blocks (400 grade or finer, that is) as I use them on my local club's layout to remove whatever's landed on the secondary less-used lines. Do you think that sanding blocks can leave fine grooves in the track which would attract/hold onto dirt? I've used them for a couple of years now on parts of the layout that get very little use and therefore are hard to run on due to the buildup of gunk which inevitably happens when those tracks haven't been used for say a month, and I don't think the sanding is detrimental to the track - by the time I get round to cleaning them again, yes they're dirty but it's due to the usual dirt etc from wherever that's landed on them and no one else has cleaned those tracks in between. In recent times I've tried an old clean hanky wrapped around a sanding block and that also seems to do a good job, either on its own or after I've put the sanding block over the track simply to remove the little bits the sanding block leaves behind. Not a perfect clean but no point aiming for absolute perfection unless it's in advance of an open day.

Each to their own, but you really shouldn't use anything abrasive on the railheads, as you said in a reply to one of the other comments, it can leave pits and grooves which then themselves trap dirt. The railheads should always be left as smooth as they come from the factory for best contact with the pickup wheels..