Dirty track is no fun with DCC equipped locos so keep it clean with this cleaning car that you can build yourself. It is made with commonly available parts you probably already have on hand so knock out a few this weekend.
I use galvanized roofing nails and I glue them with a hot glue gun. It works pretty slick. I generally have a track cleaning car behind the engine in every train. It works really well. Every once in a while I sand the hardboard to clean it up.
Hardboard really is the best thing for keeping the rails shiny, it's always my go to item for cleaning the rails especially whenever I paint the sides of the rails with an airbrush, it gets rid of the paint (acrylic) really easily even if the paint has already dried...
I did mine in n scale to an Old Dutch Cleanser box car. Seemed appropriate. I used 4 1/4” neodymium cube magnets as both the weights for the pad and also they are the retainers that hold the nails in place when picked up.
I use mineral spirits -- they have no water content at all. Then, I apply No-OX ID 'A Special'. It prevents oxidation, and fills the micro scratches, greatly improving conductivity. And, after it's applied, track needs little to no cleaning, except light dust removal (shame on you for not covering your layout when not in use... 😉).
@@TheDCCGuy All it takes is a very light coating with your finger, then wipe it down with a no-lint cloth. Your friend probably applied too much. Maybe check out Ron's Trains 'n Things. That's where I learned it... 😀
One of God's greatest gifts....Isopropyl alcohol.....cleans just about everything and anything. I like the 91%....Slick...leave it to the mighty John Allen...
Larry, I enjoy most of your videos. Recently I've watched several videos that said not too use any type of alcohol because they are non-conductive and the small amount of water it contains can leave a rust residue on the track surface. What is your take on that. A couple of months ago I started using mineral spirit and then applied by finger a very small amount of No-Ox-Id "A Special ". Then lightly rub it down using a nylon cloth. My locamotives have ran the best they have since I bought them. Always informative videos. Thanks.
Consider that in order to have rust, which by most definitions is iron oxide, you have to have iron in the rails. Given that most rails today are nickel silver, which is an alloy of 60% copper, 20% nickel, and 20% zinc, then it is impossible to have rust. Consequently I would say that anyone who says these rails rust doesn’t know what they are talking about. As for No-Ox-Id, I have a friend who tried it on his layout and then spent a month cleaning it off the rails and wheels because it created so many issues. According to their MSDS it is a grease with about 8% mineral spirits. With an almost 2% helix on my layout I am not about to put grease on my rails so good luck with yours. I do have an alternative solution given me by Larry Maier of DCC Specialties that I will cover in a future video, as soon as I have given it a test.
What type of tempered hardboard do you use for the cleaning pad? I’m in the process of building one of these cars and just need a little more info on the board type. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bobby Wright
Just plain old tempered hardboard, ask for it at the local hardware or lumber yard. Most sell it in 4’ x 8’ sheets and also in smaller sizes. See if they have any scrap left over from damaged boards they will sell cheap or give you.
The DCC Guy thank you I will go to Lowe’s and pick a piece up, and by the way I enjoy all of your videos. Very informative especially for somebody like myself who is only two years into the Hobby with a 10 x 12 switching layout
@@TheDCCGuy LOL. I can't find it -not- like that. Older Peg board has it but not ideal to get a piece for this application. Even looked a the cheap clip boards.
This is a great idea and super easy. Would you recommend bonding a super fine piece of sandpaper (6000 grit) or applying a dab of fine polish or is just the piece of bare wood sufficient?
NEVER use sandpaper on your rails, it will just create gouges and scratches that will attract and hold grease and oil which then attract dirt and other gunk. Also the pad is not wood it is Masonite. It will gently scrub your rails and you can just sand it clean when it needs it.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, it works great. My rails are nice and shiny again. I had my doubts without attaching some kind of pad and solvent but just running it dry gently polishes the tracks just fine.
Are you modeling US prototypes or European? If US then avoid Athearn as they mostly have the long steel weights. Bowser seem to favor the weights at the ends and that is what I used. Of course you can remove the long steel weights, cut them into sections, and glue them into the cars placing them at the ends.
