Bizarrely, the proline diff it also not sealed. No gasket on the opening. My take on the situation is this: the magnum 272 is fine for the power systems it’s equipped with. BL2s and xl5 probably won’t be able to shear the pin. Vxl and up definitely can. If you buy one with the 272 and break the pin, buy the 272R input gear shaft and idler. Both are compatible and will solve the pin shearing issues as well as the idler gear stripping teeth issue. Then, when you decide you want to go all out, you can buy the diff and the rest of the parts to make a 272R. It probably won’t be much if any cheaper, but the advantage is two fold. One, it keep you going for a while if you just got the truck and is only $20, and two; it allows you to get the diff yourself either unassembled or pre assembled with 500k fluid. 500k is probably too much for general bashing, but if you buy a 272r drop in transmission, you get a grease filled diff. Cleaning the grease out is a pain, you have to soak everything in solvent to get rid of it because it’ll contaminate the silicone fluid. If you buy the diff alone with 500k and it’s too thick, you can simply open it up and put in thinner fluid without being too thorough, silicone fluids will mix and become one new weight. If you put in 50k after cleaning out most of the 500k, it should become something close to like 60k.
Thanks! You got a good one with the onboard audio! Feel like those were around for a minute then disappeared lol. Haven’t bought one yet, but I’ve had my eye on an ESS system for while.
A good beginner truck but other then that I don’t have any & only buy 4wheel drive RC’s the Arrma Gorgon is the only 2 wheel drive I’ve ever seen that I would buy. I have to have 4 wheel drive bottom line.
Totally get it man! I guess I just enjoy being frustrated by driving 2wd trucks lol. How do you like Gorgon? I’ve been wanting to pick one up ever since they released it. From what I’ve seen it seems like an awesome truck for the money!
atomik shocks are cheap metal threaded and take traxxas pistons shafts and seals... great upgrade.. i have to agree with you everything you said is bad is bad. but it will take a beating when you bend a shock shaft get the titanium upgrades mine out lasted 3 sets of links and steering shafts... it is a shame that lundsford is gone i have a 1992 rustler with lundsford links since 1994 changed the ends 100 times cant bend them rpm parts are great for bashing but dont hold up without slop. (all hinge pin holes oval out) for the track and yeah the tranny is what it is.. dont get the rpm shell soft flexible plastic lets the spur shaft flex into pinion will never break hinge but will be soft on a hot day in the sun..... my 2wd slash gets more use than any other rc i have and i have 50 some..... yeah that one is all rpm but i bounce it off trees at full speed (castle sidewinder4 and 4600kv) and just keep going it is a fun basher
Great point about RPM shell and the type of plastics they use. I sorta felt the same way about their shock towers maybe providing too much flex. Definitely think RPM stuff is great in certain locations and not so much in others. Same with aluminum parts lol.
@@FAST_RC yes.. i stay away from aluminum for weight and yeah it dont break but it bends easy and stays bent nothing i ever used aluminum lasted long.... proline stuff is where it is at for the track expensive but worth it i never used rpm shock towers but once i still have them from the 90's they are like spaghetti to soft even for bashing help bend shock shafts and links
Bend those shafts on the shocks back they take a beating . Caps are bad threads anyhow tho. I put Gtrs on the back an went an put rear stocks up front an have had no issue. Ran that steering servo for a year before it broke, those hinge pins bend every hard landing but oh well once over the truck before each use an it's a non issue. The plastic trans is fine. But open the diff an full it with gorrilla glue. Instant posi lock. 272 is a good upgrade but I have a baseline slash with lights an vxl swapped it a month in. The brushed motors suck because u can't use them on sand or gravel without killing the motor in a few runs. Put the magnum trans in my 2 WD stampede an run 5.3 sledgehammers on a vxl 3 no issue. The deal breaker on traxxas stuff is casters an hub carriers just upgrade to rpms an Bash away. Alright vid but if I was gonna complain about the slash I'd start with bellcranks an front shock caps an the brushed motors.
Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate it. Great catch on the bell crank issue. Totally forgot how bad those are since I haven’t had one go out on me with my current truck, but do remember those being an issue with one of my older rigs.
First thing I upgraded was those bellcranks , the aluminum ones from traxxas took out alot of play In The steering, also running talon ext wheels for a rustler on it, better traction an a bit more low weight to keep it on the ground,
First thing I hate about traxxas is that they're made by Traxxas second thing I hate about traxxas its a traxxas third thing I hate about traxxas is there still in business fourth thing I hate about traxxas well you get the picture
Lmao. Just curious, what brand do you run? I’m looking to go a different direction in the future but not sure with what. I do like some of the arrma and associated stuff.
@@FAST_RC i've got arrma axial losi associated! I run 3racing sakura's for my onroad and drift cars i even have a couple redcat crawlers and 1/5scales! I do repairs for the local hobby shop and i fix more traxxas junk than any other cars and a lot of those are electronics failing! If you like traxxas more power to you. As far as i'm concerned they are garbage
