This man teaches how to deal with the issues seen daily on forums and on Facebook and he does this for free . No guessing , no 10 different opinion just real good information obtained from experience . I appreciate what Powell Machine is doing .
Hi Daniel, I haven't degreed a cam in over 10 yrs. but I will rely on this video to get me there again! Thank you very much! Not too many people will take the time to explain this like you have!👍👍
Shops are sad places where no one builds motors anymore. My degree wheel is in the top of one of my boxes and everyone in the shop asked what it was. In 2 shops over 25 years I built the only motors that were built on the premises. Successful builds anyway. Saw one guy build a 3.8 Buick that locked up on him on the test drive(Mix n match rod and main caps.) and another a Ford 302 that used mismatched rod and crank. On the first rire up it ran less than a minute and quit. The bolt holding the timing gear to the cam was loose. New cam bearings, cam and lifters. It was a mess, the bossman took over still building with an internally balanced rod set and an external balanced crank... It shook like a wet dog. Ford 302 had 3 different balancing schemes over the years. Using matching parts matter. Most shops buy used motors or from the big rebuild outfits like the one that starts with J. I never like the big places. They turn out crap though they preach quality. Me, I'm an old school big block Chrysler guy. I played in the 70s-90s turned tech and did electrical, electronics, drivability and emissions inspection in California. I retired 10 years ago but still look to see what's going on. Old habits die hard.
For those that may not understand the mountain analogy and why it's used. The mountain top (TDC) isn't sharp. Once the crank gets to TDC there is a lot of room for error when watching a needle on a dial. There are a few degrees of movement in the crank rotation with negligible movement of the dial making for a large window of error. Going down both sides of the mountain (great analogy, I'm stealing it) to a matching depth on both sides and splitting the difference is the only way to be dead nuts on. DO NOT forget to account for timing chain slack (a disappointing reality). You'll change your mind on cheap timing sets the first time you see the amount of rotation the crank moves to take up the slack.
Excellent presentation of cam timing. I love the pistons chasing the exhaust valves closed and the intake valves chasing the pistons open. Very informative. Thank you for the education.
Thank you so much for taking the time to show these tech videos to us less knowledgeable people. I really enjoy listening to you explain the process and the way things work. I would give anything to spend just a weekend with you and soak up everything you are willing to share. Thanks again from ohio
I cannot state how awesome your videos are, you get straight to the point and calmly explain the MOST important bits! Your content is so easy to watch and your format is perfect. I especially love your intro...a brief statement then your info flashed on to the screen with no silly music! Perfect ! Keep the vids coming ! I'll bet that you are flooded with work !
I didn't have a cool cutaway cylinder head to look at the valve piston clearance. I did it old school with modeling clay on the top of the piston... Remove the head and measure where it was pressed the thinnest. My low tech solution can be had at most toy and art supply stores. Back then I didn't have a metal cutting band saw to create such a head. Now I have a pretty complete fabrication shop but don't build cars anymore. My hobby changed. Now I build electric conveyances. Retirement ruined me, but then I don't get around like I used to. Old age isn't for sissies. I never worked in an automotive machine shop but I did pass the ASE exam for it. I kinda envied that end of it. I love the videos.
Agree - Old age isn't for sissies. Also, youth is often wasted on some young people. Just when you have learned almost all there is to know, old age steps in and you can't do it any more.
I have watched many videos on degreeing a cam. I've even degreed a few myself. This is the best explanation on degreeing a cam that I have seen. Super excellent job. Thank you
Wow! That was really an eye opener. I still struggled to understand the dial indicator and timing stuff, but the cut away view of the piston and valve operation was fantastic. Thank you very much.
I know you're crazy busy. But thank you so much for taking the time to make videos like this one. You did a great job of clearing the fog on cams & clearance. The cut-away head was the icing on the cake.
Personally, I only give credit when credit is due. Mr. Daniel clearly explains motors to where the most novice inexperienced mechanics if you will...can really sorta understand like myself. Generally, really reputable engine builders seem to make "Rocket Science" out of it to where it's more difficult to digest/understand. Thanks again Mr. Daniel for sharing your hard earned experience with a large audience of all levels.
As someone who worked at a cam grinder I an attest it is essential to degree your cam. It is nice to see someone point out the things that a lot of people overlook. The degree wheel is not expensive. Mine is black ;)
Please remind me when I roll up to the lights that if the other car has a Powell Machine decal on it, I better cut the best light of my life cause I ain't goin' to motor pass this car to get a win light.
exclent video Daniel....!...explaned almost word 4 word the way i was show'n 40 years ago..from a mentor/boss/best friend...who would change his camshafts like most people change there socks..!..just look'n for that extra tenth less @ the track..!..the cut a way head was "really" cool..!.he degree'd most of his cams with a piston stop,as the motor was in the car...the initial build/fresh'n up, was done every winter,exactly like u show'd.!.thank u..great post.!.well explaned..easly understood..!..spot on...!.
Great explanation What are your thoughts on LSA? David Vizard explains how many times cam manufacturers miss the ideal LSA in their design. According to the formula, he gives I calculated mine to be 104 I am running a 440 Mopar with a 6barrel set up Pretty much just rebuilt the stock specifications with the exception of the cam that was provided by Bob K also known as Mr6pack
I’m a new subscriber and yes your way of explaining does help me out a lot. I always built 2-strokes and used a timing wheel for my engines to get of transfers,intake,& exhaust opening and closing to match what the taper timing slip says and then check my squish area. Find .038” is what my Stage6 cylinder head combo likes. I’m a Chevy guy myself but my first engine build was a ford 302 go figure. An old ford tech guided my every move and the engine stayed together for over 250,000 miles. I sold it with 80,000 miles with a new timing chain to help keep it together cause the kid that bought it raced it and didn’t loose to many races on the street. I built a sbc 357 and used 305 heads with stock 360 size valves 280 comp rpm intake 650 Holley 2800 stall th350 3.42 gears in a 85 s10 blazer. Cuz had a square body big block and wanted to see how bad he could drag me in the quarter,lol. I think it was like 5 cars, but I drugged him after I hit 2nd gear. He asked how could that be,well if you’re cam doesn’t open and close the valves at the time it was designed to do so you’re motor ain’t right. I asked if he put a new timing chain and gears he said no it didn’t have to much slack,I laughed. I also said your timing is wrong I did hear a backfire on his 1-2 shift,so he turned his distributor,lol. That’s not what I meant cuz!! lol,for some people this just goes over there head and bounces off the wall and smacks them in the back of the head!! Thought you might like my story. I was 13 years old when I built the 302,& around 20 when I built my sbc 357,& now I’m 52 years old. Love the channel, just found it and subscribed,,,
That cut away combustion chamber is really cool !!. I wish you would have gotten a better close up of those valve events. Very cool video tho. Very informative, thank you. 🍻
It is really great to see this simplified real time by someone who has done it a thousand times. Thanks so much for cutting open the head for a really great visual of the valve clearance!. A great reminder for caution when advancing a big cam.
That is some great info brother. I am working on a N/a Ls3 for my swap. I haven't chosen a cam yet for it. I don't want it lobin really hard. Maybe some. I don't want it difficult to drive for my wife. It's mostly burnouts and ice cream, and maybe take it to a track. I'm not looking to join Street Outlaws lol. But a nice lope would be cool. Thank you for the video brother.
I just bought a Corvette with a stock L98. Anyone know what if anything can be done to get real horsepower? 50 or more is real. I was thinking cam and heads but i have a feeling the tpi is limiting
I have a question. Valve event timing being crucial. When checking a block for the first time. How often are all 16 lifter bores returning the same valve timing events, given the cam is cam doctor correct? Are the lifter bores sometimes incorrect for placement in relation to valve events? I know sometimes they are off front to back.
Great information as always. It’s refreshing to see someone else that has really honed their craft and takes pride in their work. Something the automotive industry has needed much more of for a long time.
A 4 stroke engine does not give a rats about the cam numbers , it only really wants the numbers at the RIGHT place, you can check if the cam is close at O/L and adjust with a decent at least 8 deg each way Vernier cam sprocket either road or dyno. NO cam expert knows exactly what you engine wants. Finger follower lobes are NOT the same profile either side of the exact nose point so you would want to be careful here. But your system is tried and true and certainly gets to a staring point
Nice video. Since most people don’t have a cut away scrap head, you did not mention the play check method and being kind of old-school 080 on a higher reving is a pretty good number.
That cut away head allowing a good look at the piston and valves is amazing. Really lets you see and fully understand whats going on inside that cylinder and head chamber. Absolutely the best explanation of cam numbers to actual clearance conditions I've ever seen or heard. Beats the hell out of diagrams on chalkboards. Really looking forward to your next episode on the LS ninemare build.
Daniel Powell, if I try to degree a cam with asymmetrical lobe, should I indicate off of the cam's base circle rather than finding the top of the lobe?
Correct me if I’m wrong: The purpose of degreeing a cam is to check if the cam you have is the one you want and/or to check if the specs correspond with what you ordered?
I've never bothered degreeing the cam on a stock build. Sure on performance builds I've advanced/retarded for some fine tuning. Are the cam grind tolerances and sprocket/gear tolerances that far off?
@@powellmachineinc That's quite a bit. What do you attribute that to? Aftermarket parts? Or are the factory parts bad too? Personally I almost exclusively do truck and industrial and try to stick with factory parts. Back like 35 - 40 years ago I built some ENDT675 and 676 Macks with aftermarket parts, and they didn't last as long as the factory ones I built. I really didn't save much either
OK. Show us how you do it, making adjustable. Have you not heard of timing gears that are advanced or retarded 1, 2, 3 or more degrees. If so how do you know what adjusted unit to fit if you haven't measured the cam timing?
