I'm not big on leaving comments but I must say this is the most realistic, honest video for a beginner. I'm learning welding also and my rod sticks all the time. You're right, that "is like striking a match" analogy is bullshit. Why not just say "get a welder with an anti-stick function". Yeah, I'm probably going to piss off a lot of ppl for saying this, but why would these pros make beginner videos if it seems the "beginner" has to have a degree in welding to comprehend the video, what would the point be of watching the video if I already how to? But this one is great. Thanks Justin, makes me feel a bit better that I'm not the only one that think the match striking is crap (I don't smoke).
Hey thanks for the comment. I hope your welding experience goes smooth. Mine has been up and down, but I am slowly learning and getting more confident. Best of luck!
This grandma says go to the grocery store, get a small box of matches, and practice striking them. Then one day you’ll say to your grandchildren, “It’s just like striking a match!” 😊
Your “little shock” was most likely because you were welding fence which was most likely in the ground, so with your ground clamp connected to your fence, and your whip in your hand, while your not welding the only way for the current to find its way back to the ground clamp would be through your body,to the ground, to the fence post, than of course back down the negative lead. You were most likely kneeling down while you were feeling the tingle so the dampness in the ground connected with your skin through your pants. Next time, try kneeling on a piece of plywood or something to break the chain and you should have better luck. Also good rubber soles help the same way. Good video! 👍
@@MrJustinWheeler unfortunately I thought about this video yesterday while lying in the mud and rain welding on piece of equipment that a customer “needed” right away, even tho they knew it was broken all summer.... needless to say I got a few zaps ⚡️
You NEED to try it at 220v. This is because of the way the internal IGBT is in the DEKO, it's current limited so at 110v you'll only really be able to get maybe 80A out of it, while at 220v you'll be able to get the whole 160A. Most of the reviews state that they get much better welds on 220 than 110. Same with the CUT-50's plasma cutters, we have one and and 110v it doesnt work too good but on 220v it slices through 1/4" like butter.
Liked your video. Very honest and down to earth. I am somewhat surprised that only one person even mentioned about you grabbing and holding the stick while welding. This is where you are picking up your little tingles!
Really? Am I not supposed to grab the rod? Lol. Learn something every day. I find it easier to control the rod tip that way. Is it dangerous? Thanks for watching!
@@MrJustinWheeler you can grab the rod while welding. I’m in welding school and I swear they teach it as a method of getting comfortable while welding which is very important for a welder to do. Now it does get hot as the rod gets smaller but that’s common sense just move your hand once the rod shrinks.
Welding is a cool skill to have, and the more you practice the better you get. Regardless of machine, if you burn lots of rod you will gain a lot of skill! These new little DC welders just blow me away, I can't believe something that small and inexpensive can actually weld. 👍
Looking at this two years later. Hope by now you (and your viewers) have found out that : 1. You use the "striking-a-match" technique to "break-in" a new rod since the metal core of new rods stick out a little beyond the flux covering. After the first few seconds into the new rod, the outer core forms a crater, with the metal about 2 mm inside its centre. That way, even with the flux of the rod touching the workpiece, there is still no touching of the metal and the workpiece. 2. I have found that the angle and direction that works best are about 30 to 40 degrees to the horizontal exactly in the direction of the gap to be welded. If it leaves a slag, then you must drag, unless it is (up) a vertical. 3. The difficulty starts when you have to weld thin tubing, which becomes a series of spot welds connected to one another, at fairly low amperages, e.g. 90 A at 220 V ! But since this type of welding is for gates, fences, lawn furniture, ect, , then you don't have to bother about leakage under fluid pressure, just strength and aesthetics. Not a pro myself but did take one year of welding in college years ago. I did High School teacher training in Physics and Chemistry but the college required one year of an industrial program (electrical, welding, auto-mechanics, wood-work, etc.) in order to graduate (in my case, to teach Physics and/ Chemistry in High school, LOL !). I chose welding (did oxy-acetylene and arc), and have used the arc component extensively during the summer on side jobs over the last 20 years. Have used oxy-acetylene in auto-body repairs to a limited extent. In hind sight, that was a good choice. But still not a pro ! Come to think of it, oxy-acetylene and arc welding are related to Physics and Chemistry.
The Deko is DC. What it lacks is AC. A lot of these IGBT Inverter welders are "open circuit" at about 60v. That's enough to give you a pretty good shock. You can make up a 12 AWG 50 ft 220v extension cord and run a lot of work with full current capable. Tacking with 7018 is tough. Clean ground is the most important part of any welding job.
You could try to use some 6013 2mm just for the tack welds and the 7018 for the welding.. Because it's not easy to tack weld with the 7018 after they lose that tip at the star they get sticky on a cold weld.. Great review thanks for sharing...
I just got this deko welder and got to try it today. Worked decent on 110 for some small stuff no problems. Tried it with 220 and did great. Defiantly a lot deeper penetration for bigger metal on 220. But all in all. Really good for the price.
Man, i just found your channel while watching different welding videos. I am wanting to learn to weld. I dont plan to ever weld anything really important or something that has to be safe. I just want to be able to do stuff like the steel mesh on my trailer gate or the inner fenders on that trailer. That said, i thought this little dekopro would be perfect for me so i headed to amazon and ordered it. Thanks for sharing and good luck with the channel
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with how well it can work. Now that I've been using it for over a year, not a single weld I have made has failed, and they are starting to look half way decent too. Lol. Good luck and thank you!
yes sir i bougth this welder in may 2020 and since then to may 2021 i have made $18,372.58 withing one year on side jobs insted of using my big millers i have since then bought a used 2012 ram 3500 and now i am going to make a full coustom falt bed for it !!! great welding machine for small jobs/side jobs .
Great video. I am in the same boat where you were a few months ago trying to get into welding. Still learning by watching videos before I jump in and buy a welder. Your video helped a lot. One thing I noticed is you are using a 7018AC rod and AFAIK DekoPro is a DC welder. You may want to try plain 7018 - it might make some difference. Just my $0.002. Thanks again for great video that instills confidence in a newbie like me.
You're absolutely right! A couple people pointed that out to me and I never even realized it. As soon as I burn through all these 7018ac rods, I am going to pick up some regular 7018. Thanks for watching!
Nah.. screw that. I bought the exact same Deko and I welded my first (very crappy) bead yesterday. Just buy it and learn by doing, make sure your surfaces are clean and you will not have any issues.
Lil tip brother, when your going to tack it together next time put a gap rod in between when tacking will allow for yoy to achieve the key hole when putting in the root. Maximum penetration...that's what she said
Sounds like some important advice. I am a newbie learning. Can you please elaborate a bit more on "put a gap rod in between when tacking will allow for yoy to achieve the key hole when putting in the root." Thanks in advance.
Good stuff. That’s a good little welder. I’ve had mine for almost 2 years. You’ll notice a performance improvement after replacing that shitty ground clamp with a good brass clamp. And it’ll run best on 220V.
That Lincoln is a great welder. Having said that some of the inverter stick welders have adjustable hot start to make striking an arc easier. There is another setting I can't think of but it increases the amps if you get the spark too short. I watched a guy try to stick the rod and he could not do it with that setting turned up.
I’ve watched all the reviews and videos about this welder and they’ve been positively reviewed. I’ve watched people use it at 110 and get great penetration. Unfortunately I can’t get it to weld to the steel, only melt the rods over it. Mine is too weak and I checked to make sure it wasn’t the outlet. Sucks.
@@michaelweller5470 do you have the electrode holder on the positive connection, and the work clamp on the negative? Building up on the surface instead of penetrating sounds like a classic symptom of incorrect polarity.
Thanks for the video. I have been considering one of these as a portable. You're right. Penetration is not so good with the Deko. Another thing to consider is that I've seen other tests with the Deko, & its screen is not very accurate, often overstating the amperage by quite a bit. The Lincoln I owned ran hot enough that I only turned it up to 120A once or twice.
The screen on your inverter welder is reading the amperage, which is more important to know when arc welding than the voltage. Amperage is also what is indicated on the dial on your Lincoln. You indicated that the Deko did not have a DC option. Are you sure about that. Most of these inverter Welders are DC only and do not have an AC option. You switch polarity from DCEP to DCEN by switching the leads.
I have the Deko and it is a inverter welder, only DC output. Those rods are ok on DC, but can also be used on AC. Also have a buzz box that is hardly used since I got the Deko. I also have a HF 120 welder that is my off road repair tool. This welder really sings at 220V and with a new ground clamp lays a very reliable arc. The stock clamp is the weakest point on the Deko.
@@1skydvejam the ground clamp is the only real weak point. Mine was all chewed up after a few months of use and literally fell off in my hand. Replaced it with a Lincoln for $6. The stinger could be better, but it works just fine. I was really surprised with the quality and length of the leads. Quite pleased with this purchase. I just got an Amico mig130 for thinner metal and general in the field repairs, it is pretty sweet. I have less than $400 in my welding rig and I can do the same stuff that my buddy can do with his $3000 Miller.
I always keep a file or piece of sandpaper with me when using 7018. Once I start welding with it and lift off, the tip sort of "heals over" and makes it difficult to restart. Scratch the tip on the file or the sandpaper to remove the residue on the end of the rod. Will be easier to start the next weld. ??? Or "just strike it like a match" 😀 LOL Thanks for the videos and the good humor.
Another tip tip with using 120v to run 1/8 7018, is to stick the rod initially to heat it up. As in stick stick, stick it for a solid 2 seconds, and when you go to relight your arc, it's much easier to run the rod on 120v. On 120v it's better to run a 3/32 7018 instead of a 1/8.
I'll be getting mine Tuesday I do have a 125 EZ flex titanium but the trigger went out I need a new wand it's a damn good welder but I'm going to try this one out and it looks promising thank you I did subscribe to your I'll be looking forward to more I'm a hobbyist myself
Good on you Justin, that was a nice honest video. I would imagine you will become a pretty proficient welder with a little more knowledge. Learn which rods are best for the project you are working on, make sure you are setting your amperage correctly, and give yourself a little more room for safety. The most important thing though is, how much do you want for that old machine lathe under your workbench??? Stay safe and work on stacking those dimes!!
Hey thanks for the advice. That lathe actually belonged to my grandfather. It needs the motor rebuilt. I've never used it, but have always looked forward to the day that I get to use it like he did. I even have his old turning tools. It's an old Craftsman. I don't think I will ever part with it. Maybe I'll make a video on it once I get it up and running!
Just because you never struck a match the old timers like me have stricken a lot of matches in our day. Pilots going out on cooking stoves, we had burn barrels in the back yard. So much so that we used to play with matches when I was a kid.
You are not wrong. And I have used matches in my life. But it is not so common that the muscle memory is translatable to striking an arc. I understand the expression, I just think its kinda funny how things have changed over time. I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment.
Hey Justin, thanks for the very candid and honest review. It's been a few years and I'm curious to know how the Deko is holding up? Seems like a good budget welding machine, however longevity is probably less than your Lincoln. Time will tell. :)
Glad to hear of your success using a 120ft of extension cords on a 110v circuit, welding 7018ac all day, and tripping a 20a breaker a few times. Still wondering, what AWG were your extension cords? Sounds like my 50ft 3/12 AWG cord might be just fine on 110v 20a for welding 3/32" 6013 and 7014. You make good video. Thanks! 👍👍
A red seal welder taught me one time that he does not "strike a match." He does tiny little waves close to the metal to get the arc going. I am in school to be a shop teacher. That technique got me through my stick welding assignment!
when I learned to weld when there was no youtube and just ran a ton of rod but when starting just do it and be carefull if your using a wood bench biggest thing is have fun !!
Yes sir, I’m lucky to have RU-vid as guidance but nothing has been better than just running through rods. The wood bench was sketchy. I have since upgraded haha. Thanks for watching!
You're absolutely right. I am not sure how I didn't notice that. I've used nothing but 7018AC rods with this machine. Lol. Part of the learning process, eh?? Ha. Thanks for watching and pointing that out.
@@MrJustinWheeler They still work just fine on a DC welder though. The "AC" designation simply means that they can also work on an AC Stick welder. Do a Google Search for "Lincoln 7018AC" and Look at the document page/PDF so you can see for yourself. Under the Operating Procedures, it lists "DC+" as well. :)
@@isaiahloving2096 you won’t regret it. I use it every week and it’s actually easier for me to use than my Lincoln now. I’m going to try to teach my wife to use it soon. Lol
Isn't that welder a DC welder? I've been looking at it and the 200 Amp version for a while. I have been using my Lincoln 225 AC buzzbox for years and always bought the 7018AC rods for it. Good to see the 7018AC works ok on the DEKO Pro 160 since that's what I have a bunch of. Thanks
I didn’t realize at the time that the Deko was DC. Shows how uniformed I was when I started. But yes, lucky for me (and you) that they still run the AC rods just fine. (:
I just got the same welder but, haven't even tried it yet....maybe this weekend. I bought all 3/32 rods to run with it. You should really check to make sure there isn't something wrong that is causing the shock. A mild shock could be deadly under the right (wrong) conditions, especially if it's leaking 120 AC somehow.
John Madden I’ve looked it over and I can’t tell why that was happening. It also hasn’t happened since that one day. I will definitely keep a close eye on it. Have you got to try yours yet?
@@MrJustinWheeler Justin I finally got to try it just a little bit tonight. I am brand new to welding and all I did was run a couple of beads down a piece of uni-strut to make sure the thing actually worked. I ran a couple of 3/32 6013 rods on at about 85 amps and another at about 70 amps both on 110. Didn't blow any breakers and I didn't get shocked (but I was inside and completely dry). So far so good. I am pretty excited about it. Have wanted a welder for a long time. I have a whole lot to learn before I can say anything with any cred but, I am glad I got it. Thanks for taking the time to post a video. I didn't see yours before I bought mine but, I definitely look on youtube to see what people think of something before I buy. Especially if I know nothing about it to begin with. p.s. if you haven't done it yet I would check with a meter to make sure you unit is grounded (I mean continuity between the plug ground and the case) and just plug it in and measure the case and lead voltages for any stray AC. These put out DC volts so, you shouldn't see any AC I don't think. Again I am not an expert.
John Madden good to hear! I was just wondering if you’d had a chance to give it a try. Sounds like you had decent results. I too, and very new to welding, so I’m still learning a lot. Another guy just commented about not crossing the leads, which is something I didn’t know. Good tip on checking the grounding continuity. I will do that tomorrow before I put it back to work.
@@MrJustinWheelerAlso make sure the outlet you are plugged into is actually grounded. Ground faults are always a good idea if you're where its damp. The circuit I used to try mine is on a ground fault breaker. I mention that because I was curious if the welder would trip it and it didn't. I have buddy that's a professional welder. I'll try to remember to ask him about getting shocked a little if your working in damp conditions is normal. It may happen all the time for all I know.
Ok this may be more that you want to know....I copied it from here....www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/education-center/welding-safety/Pages/electric-shock-faqs.aspx "A secondary voltage electric shock occurs when you touch a part of the welding or electrode circuit - perhaps a bare spot on the electrode cable at the same time another part of your body is touching the metal upon which you're welding (work). To receive a shock, your body must touch both sides of the welding circuit, electrode and work (or welding ground) at the same time when the welding output is on....The voltage at the electrode is highest when you are not welding (open circuit voltage)." So keep your hands off the part you're welding. :)
After a year of use, have you replaced the ground clamp or the electrode holder? Just got the 200 amp version and feel this clamp and holder are lacking stoutness also. 🤠❓
Glad to hear. I haven't used my new Deko welder yet. After I ordered it, it sneakily became a Christmas present from my wife. She snatched it from the Amazon driver and wrapped it and put it under the tree before I had a chance to even open it up and inspect it! 🤠😁
I do a little bit of welding to make and repair stuff. I practiced a lot in the beginning but without that, my time on projects isn’t great. I stick a lot too but I just need to raise the amperage and move the electrodes fast enough not to burn through. I’m thinking about the course that TimWelds offers for $39 for each type of welding (stick, MIG, TIG,fluxcore) or $59 for everything. The package might be worth it if I just wanted to learn stick and TIG.
Definetly should have used 3/32" for this on 110v power... you'd be lucky to see 100 amps for real output on 110v. 1/8" 7018 needs ~125 amps to burn nicely. 3/32 at 85-90amps and you'd be able to just let it sit on the steel and drag it on. Wouldnt fight the weld nearly as bad lol
Are you referring to a wire feed gun? If so, then no, that would not be compatible. However, there are decent wire feed units that are fairly cheap. Thanks for watching!
Yes sir. I wanted people to be able to compare what a small, cheap, 110v unit would do compared to a 220v tried and true machine. Mostly because I know some people don’t have access to 220v. It’s not a Deko Vs Lincoln comparison- more of a video to highlight how decent a 110v inverter welder can be.
By the looks of the channel setup you should be about like wranglerstar, I don’t know why it hasn’t took off yet I couldn’t believe most of your videos get 50-300 views.
Wranglerstar is awesome. Idk if I'll ever get to his level, but I appreciate the kind words. Just trying to do my part to contribute to the greater RU-vid information base. Thanks again!
Please remove paint, rust or mill scale where you clamp ground clamp. Also if you can replace electrode holder and get Harbor Freight one and replace ground clamp with a 200 amp Tweco all copper or bronze. Your welding rod will stick less.
Please measure the amps with a C clamp amp-meter. To show proof and To see if the amps are accurate as advertised with this model with so many welders overblown amps and fake duty cycles.
I’ve got a 5500 Generac that runs it great on 110v. I haven’t tried the 220 yet bc i don’t have the correct plug for it. But I know the 110v side melts those rods like butter.
lol different rods are for different applications, 7014 is not a suitable root. Ask your professor what the difference is between rods with different numbers and he can explain it better. www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/stuck-on-stick-easy-answers-to-not-so-simple-questions-about-common-electrodes & www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/shielded-metal-arc-welding-rods.html should help
It seems to me like the cheaper welders are a little under rated on the amps (where the display says you are VS where you actually are), while the name brand machines are true to the value on the display. It's not a real big deal as far as functionality but it's something to be aware of when switching from one machine to the other.
Justin, nice review on the Deko. I'm impressed by the Deko's weld quality even by a self-professed novice. I'm no expert either. Just a few points. You should wear a long-sleeved shirt and cover up as much as possible, otherwise you'll get a nice sunburn. I was taught to never to leave the rod in the stinger unless you're using it. There's a chance you could complete the circuit if you put it on on something conductive. 75 amps should be enough with the Lincoln. Good job though.
I think that when it says 7018 ac polarity wich doesn't exist because ac stands for alternated current meaning it's always changing from positive to negative what they realy want to say is that the welding rod works Better with the stik on positive and ground on negative... But there some people that say that on a DC welder putting the clamp on the positive and the stick on the negative one can get better deposit... I guess this DC welders can burn all the comon rods... 7018 and 6013 as well as the inox ones...
From the bead being on top of the metal, rather than being actually sunk into the metal, that tells me that you are running a little cold, and the arc not wanting to start is most likely due to an insufficient ground
Most of these Chinese cheap welders, the dial and the digital readout are directly connected, but the machine amperage is NOT what's on the gauge !! My 315 amp welder is. B/S, when I dial in the full 315 amps the actual amps, is 127 amps. !! It does run 7018- 1/8" well. In the wide open 315 amp position,
These two welders are different. One is ac and the other is dc. That measures different. Allso the small piece should be welded from the other side the heat input would go better.
You’re right. And when I made this video I was so new to welding that I didn’t even realize. I’ve learned a lot since getting this little unit. I appreciate the feedback!
You lost me there for a minute Scotty, I’m not sure if this is going to help me making a decision of what to purchase, on the Deko you use 110volts@118amps and the Lincoln 220volts@90amps, what exactly you were trying to proof ???
My intention wasn't to find out if the Deko is better than a Lincoln. My intention was to use the Lincoln as a baseline to show how a cheaper unit compares. I know the different voltages and amperages don't make it a true apples to apples comparison, but it gives you an idea. Thanks for watching!
You talk like your not a welder but I know different, but however it works you did a good job especially for such a small welder, and 120 Is the proper amperage for 1/8 7018 but if you ran 3/16 7018 it would put less pressure on your machine
I still haven’t ran it on 220/240 yet bc it works so well at 110. But I WILL run this at 240 tomorrow when I get back to the house. Thanks for watching bud!
7018 is a low hydrogen rod. It needs to be kept in a rod oven because it makes hydrogen embrittled metal if not properly maintained which is dangerous.
Start taking advantage of the DC capability on your Lincoln. Break out that 6010 rod and use it on DC Electrode Positive. There are some good videos on RU-vid that show you how to run 6010, as there is a definite technique to it. You can't just drag it like you can with 7018. Check out this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R7uAtEukEjs.html
Surely this DEKOPRO has the anti stick thing in it? I bought the 160A Stick/Lift TIG welder bro. I also bought a welder from my local LIDL food store that sells its own brand tools and it's only 10-80 Amps & it's a little betler.. I've not used the DEKOPRO welder yet bcos it had this copper rod in the plug instead of of a 13 Amp fuse. Somebody told me it was to get the Amps up to 160 on the domestic home sockets.. That's probably why u got shocked bro. Check the bloody plug and what fuse it has in there..
@@MrJustinWheeler That's not near young enough for me to yell at you to get off my lawn and stop stealing my garden gnomes. I'ma send you a case of strike anywhere matches. You'd lived some odd sheltered life.
if you know welding. Or even the safety. Anyway I went to welding school and safety first. Your cable should not be crossed, and you are welding next to the machine. But good try and also you need better Ground. Take care. And be safe.
I understand everything you've mentioned except the cables being crossed. Im currently in a welding program but they have not yet mentioned anything about "crossing" cables. I don't see the issue with this. Could you please explain why its not good? Not trying to be a dick, just curious and trying to learn wherever i can.
@@imnohble5214 Sorry it took me long to reply. I went to check with welding Instructor and he said reason he told us to not cross just in case if was any damage. So I take it back i got it wrong, and thanks a lot for replying. Hope all clear to everyone. I am crazy about safety and I saw a lot of students in my class doing crazy things. And i linked below fun video if you like to Watch it about safety. My Best! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mzx4lR6xNTQ.html
Justin Wheeler 6010 is easier to strike an arc with compared to 7018. 6010 is also only suitable for DC reverse (DCEP). It has a deep digging arc, and is not a good choice for light gauge metal. It requires more skillful manipulation compared to 7018. 6011 runs very similar to 6010, but works with AC as well DC reverse.
@@MrJustinWheeler I have a very similar lunchbox welder that I just got got yesterday, the Tooliom 135S, which looks to be a pretty much identical machine. It won't properly run 6010. You need a real stick welder to run 6010 properly. The vast majority of machines simply cannot sustain the required arc voltage to properly run 6010. Oh, and its worse on 110V than on 220V. On 220V you can "force it" by burying the rod into the puddle, but that's not really how it's meant to be ran. Try it out, your results might vary. You'll have much better luck with 6011.
