Lots of comments and questions about how the cheap little welder handles 220v. DekoPro Welder: amzn.to/3EPDEbM Klutch Fab Table: amzn.to/3qJyf1a Deko Welding Helmet: amzn.to/3zkHusv Mr Volcano Forge: amzn.to/3G4lBjT
That welder cant weld 6010, just going by other reviews. A good rod is 7016 better penetration than a 7018 and can be used for root passes. Alot better to run than 7018 because they dont have to be put in an oven, just have to keep them dry.
Get yourself some 6011. You will be pleased with the outcome. I bought a Deko 160a just the other day for $109. I have been very satisfied with the performance of this little toaster. It really shines on the end of a long extension cord, from the top of an 18 foot ladder. All while being powered by the smallest generator from Harbor Freight.
@@elerre3457 my generator is 5k watt. 3,500 may be a little on the same side, but I think it’s worth a try. I know people have ran it off 4K units. Good luck! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QgNowIwLnUg.html
@@MrJustinWheeler yea ir I had the money for a 5k I'd get it but I'm going to probably be able to push like 85 amps out a welder. Do you know s good electrode that takes less amps to burn ?
Also 7018 you can drag that rod all day and it’ll come out pretty if your doing it right but with 6010 And 6011 you have to step in and out of the puddle
@@timothygarcia3192 7018 is a good place to start. 6013 arent bad, but theyre low penetration and it can be hard to read the puddle. But theyll still teach you what to do.
6010 rods require too high of a voltage for this machine to run. 6011 will run on it im sure though. The sodium in the 6010 rod is much less dense than the potassium used in 6011 (hence the less amperage), but at the same time, the molecules are smaller and stronger with the sodium. This causes the arc to be much more violent, as well as drawing more voltages. This is also why xx10’s will only run on EP, and the xx11’s can do AC as well. Because the molecular bond isn’t as strong with the potassium, the arc is much more stable and wants to remain lit. Hope this helps someone.
Any updates on how the machine is performing now?! I just bought it and bought a few different size sticks and was curious if it's something you would still use. Thanks for the videos, it helped out with my purchase!
It still works great! TBH, I don’t use it as much anymore since I bought my azzuno mig welder, but I’ll still grab the Deko when I need something light and portable without hassling with a gas bottle. Good luck with it! It’s a good machine for the cost.
@@krazykkarl I think 95% of what I run is 1/8th 7018. I had decent luck with 6011 and 6013 as well, but always found myself reaching for 7018. But that may just be part of my inexperience. I’m sure there are better rods for what I do, but 7018 always works.
The 6010 is a Fast Freeze Electrode, DC+ Polarity and has to be manipulated "Whip & Pause Motion" good for out of position welding..vertical & overhead, Pipe. Good for first or penetration pass on butt joints... one of the first coated rods developed in the early years of welding. The flux coating is thin, High Cellulose Sodium coating. weld is hard and brittle. The Low Hydrogen has an Iron Powder/Low Hydrogen Coating good for high tensile strength. If you ever went to any of the Lincoln or Hobart Welding Schools you would learn how to manipulate "run" each Electrode in All Welding Positions.
6010 doesn’t HAVE to be manipulated with a whip and pause. On a root pass aka key hole…sure that’s a good technique. These cheap welders work best with 7018, 6013, (this is because they produce low voltage numbers) and if on 110 power 3/32 rod or smaller is best. They will run 1/8 7018 well also even on 110.
RU-vid just recommended this video. Nice demonstration of what can really be done with an inexpensive welder like the Dekopro. I did notice that you where having problems running 6010 smoothy on the Deko. It is very common for inexpensive inverter welders and 6010 not to get along with each other. I was wonder if you have ever ran 6011 on the Deko and if so how did it run compared to 6010. My own experience with a different brand welder is that 6011 runs much better and pretty much does everything I would want from a 6010 unless I needed 6010 for some code welding. From what I seen so far, I think your channel is way under viewed and under subscribed for the quality. So I bump the subscriber number by one and look forward to viewing some more of your content over the next few days. Thanks of making the video.
Thanks, Tim. I appreciate the kind words and feedback. That 6010 I used on camera was the very first time I’d ever tried 6010. By the time I finished my little anvil project, I’d started to get the hang of it, but it was still not pretty. Once I burn through those 5lb box I will try 6011 next and see how it compares. Thanks for the suggestion!
I have the Dekopro Smart panel version; it won't run 6010. In fact my Dekopro won't run Forney 6011, but it runs Lincoln 6011, very well. Thanks for sharing.
For your root pass on 6010s you want to bevel the plates and clean off all the slag. Use the whip and pause technique and watch your puddle. Lay dimes. Look for undercut, over it, slag inclusions and porosity--practice. Make a set of slag picks by chipping the coating of a 6010. Cut it in half. Make a 1/2 inch bend on one and leave the other one straight. Take it to the wheel and sharpen them. You must pick and brush all slag out to pass a bend test. Hope that helps. Btw, don't use 6010 with this machine. Use 6011
I can’t remember off the top of my head the make/model. But it’s just a generic one from Tractor Supply. I actually don’t like it much. Doesn’t open very wide.
It's a brass clamp similar to the one you can get at Harbor Freight for $15. It's solid brass and rated for 400A. I've upgraded all my welders to that clamp and I like it. Very good conductivity.
