Thanks for the great vid, Delboy! I'd slightly modified the tool for myself, using a M12 capnut which I drilled through and I use 3mm threaded wire. Slide this through the drilled capnut and lock it with M3 self locking nuts. The capnut also fits directly into the axle holes, like the cone U made. Next week going to install the rearwheel on my FXDC, fresh rubber on it.
Sounds like an ingenious design Henk, i like that.. it goes to show that you can interpret the design any way you like, all you are doing it making a lockable device to compare to the other side aye... cheers buddy.. ill remember that method... Good luck with the install, sounds like preparation for summer aye.... ride safe brother, and take care.. Del.
Moonfleet41 Thanks for your response. When it works out oke I’ll post a picture. Also made myself a belt tension gauge, will post a picture of it also.
Thanks buddy, I'm replacing my rear tire and need to check this when I adjust the belt tension....you are brilliant my man....love your videos....stay safe!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Del, back in the '60's, we would take a cut out of the goose necks, or cut the down tubes and heat the top frame rail at the seat to get the desired rake and raised upper frame rail look. Then we'd take a string from the rear of the back tire, stretch it across the front all the way to the front tire to see how badly we "F"ed up the alignment. We've come a long way. 😏
Oh My Word, those were the days, and a little before my time.. during those days i was still watching my dad do it.. but i guess those old tricks are what we base all our custom principles on to this day.... thanks for your great input buddy, its an honour to hear from an old hand with history to share.. Take care... Del.
Nice video, I shall definitely be making one, but as to cost: 1/2 hour of your time, drill press, grinding tool plus the bolt and nuts. That's why they can charge £15-20 for one. Not everyone has the equipment.
Moonfleet41 Absolutely Del. I think I'm getting soft if I have to pay someone to do what I can handle.... It was called "Yankee Ingenuity". X-cellent channel Del! You have work habits to be admired and imitated......
Cracking little tool, I shall be making one of those! What a gorgeous FLD! Nicest one I've seen. Beautiful custom paint job and I love the bars which look like a Softail Deluxe standard bar. I love the retro look that you can get with the Switchback, always have done, and that black and old cream/off white with the accent stripe is perfect. i'm always put off by the wheels. I'm a spoke fan but maybe I could live with that compromise. Might look even better with a two into one fishtail. Oh hell, I'm talking myself into one now! Dang!
Hi Peter, hot off the press... not gonna be making some big announcement on it, but yep, couldn't resist the Switchback! My favourite Dyna ever and this was painted in replica 1961 DuoGlide Police colours... (FLP)... I have the period tank badges, but when I got the bike they were in the wrong place, so ordered some sticky back stuff to shift them... it has the Softail Slim half moon footboards, and best of all, it's gone through two owners... the first owner did all this period custom work, it even had a sprung seat on it, but the last owner kinda trashed all that, put the big daft pro-pipe on and the factory seat, so will be changing the seat for a LePera BareBones and best of all, the exhaust.. that pro-pipe is daft , so am putting the standard front pipe back on with a period single cigar muffler, which is exactly the same as the '61 Police bike, and will look a lot more period, so a few jobs to do, but unlike you, I love the hot rod wheels...the Police bikes had black spokes anyway, presumably to keep costs down, and being a 103 with a Stage1, it's just a monster!
Moonfleet41 bloody lovely, you lucky chap! I take it you still have the FLSTF.? I could buy a switchback if I sold the 72 and the Enfield. Makes sense to me!
No mate, traded it... am just a poor humble mechanic, and unless I somehow double my Patrons in the next few months, I can't afford to keep two Harleys, so one went for the other, as always !
Awesome! I tried to do the tape trick you did with the sportster to align my Dyna wheel, but the Dyna primary is in the way of the pivot point on the left side. Had no idea we had a hole a few inches from the axles specifically for this. Much appreciated!
Get a couple center drills. you should not be attempting to drill a hole through threads without a center drill. It will amaze you how easy it becomes.
Really cool tool Del, do they not sell the conical bolts? I do all my maintenance outside as I don't have a garage now and obviously don't have the machinery to do the making .
Hi Doug, I believe that I have seen taper top bolts on bikes before, but imagine they're rare, but what is more common are button cap screws, like you get on the fairing of a sportsbike, it's smooth dome, but it will still sit in the centre of your axle hole, and give you a measurement!
Mucho gracias Amigo. My lift gave out, seal leaked hydraulic and I replaced rear tube tire on 07 1200 custom but messed up, thought I could do caliper last,have to remove tire, axle darn it😤 wish I could attach it with out removing it all.....
Not sure model to model buddy - but check the swingarm pivot axle itself, if you have a dimple in the end of it both sides, then measure to that with just a longer piece of wire !
you are a great guy for doing all this for us but this trick is slightly different for older bikes like my 1997 Road King but another gent mentioned the right method for us on older rides
I've been watching your channel for a bit, came across it looking for info on harleys and been hooked! I don't usually write in cause I always like what you do. Can't wait to see more of the fighter build! But I miss the FRO's!!!! Are you going to do anymore of those???
Thanks Wayne, glad to know you enjoy the videos, and they can help you out... as for future videos, we have so much planned ahead, and so much garaging stuff to video and upload, that we've kept some our rides more personal of late, as we need some 'downtime' now and again... but may get out on the road sometime over the summer, now it's here, so never say never!
(Bolt 50p + nutx2 28p)....(3m wire £2.50 per metre)...(grinder plus discs £45)....(drill bit, upright drill and clamp £100)...time spent free...total= £145.78.... best just buy one for 20 quid, makes sense. 🤣
I want to do a tank lift, wire tuck and coil relocation on my Sportster but I don’t want to pay the £70+ for the coil relocation bracket. Any ideas on how I could re-use/recycle the original coil bracket? Thanks.
Hi mate, off subject but need your help, Ive got a 2008 bandit gsf 650, for some reason it's decided not to start, thought it was the battery as it gave of the right signals, so I bought the gel motobatt you recommended in your video and hooked it up, still didn't turn over, or anything but the lights were on the dash now and the FI is on, I've put it in dealer mode to find the code but my display says half loaded? The fuel pump does its thing and gear counter counts the gears and then settles ready to start and but the display doesn't go to 0 and the time, it just stays on 00000's and tells me I have a full tank (I've only got three bars) I need it for work but it's doing my head in and I can't afford to take it to a dealership, I know you haven't got the bike but I was hoping you have worked on one before or something, so basically what I'm asking is how to i get the display to fully load to get the dealer error codes up so I can get the code and find the problem? Sorry for the long comment.
Hi Del. Thanks for your awesome videos - I've already learned a lot. Just one quick question: is that 3mm aluminium wire or stainless steel? Thanks and many regards from Germany. Bastian
That's wonderful Dell. So much stuff I just don't do or take seriously on my bike. I was once worried about my rear wheel alignment so popped into my local HD dealer & asked if they could check it, the bloke just walked out to my bike looked at the back wheel from a few feet away & said "yup it's in line" & walked back in the shop? I was thinking wow how very scientific!! Now I know there is a tool for the job & HD missed the opportunity to sell me one! Guess I'll be making one now ha.
haha - what a clever guy, I wish I had his vision! Me, I lose spanners if I put them down for 30seconds, must be me age... make yourself one of these mate, then you could even prove him wrong, wouldn't that be fun?!
If they have the notches on the swingarm, then they are more reliable than people say they are - but any motorcycle with a swingarm, you can simply measure from the axle to the swingarm axle... you just need a longer bit of wire !
Hello again. I have a question for you to see what you think as I trust your knowledge. I have a HD Street 750. I want to change my air filer to a high flow K & N filter and also want to replace the stock muffler to a freer flowing (and louder) exhaust muffler. I'm told that if I do that I have to buy a fuel management module of have it retuned by HD. In your opinion, is that correct or will I damage my engine if I don't?I POSTED THIS QUESTION ON A REAL OLD SEGMENT AND DIDN'T KNOW IF YOU WOULD SEE IT SO HERE IT IS AGAIN. sORRY IF THIS REPOSTING WASN'T NECESSARY.
Hi Cary, yes, it is necessary to re-tune, and if you don't re-tune, then yes, you will damage your engine.... speak to Harley about the full package, pipe, air filter and fuel tuner all in one go, and see if you can negotiate a decent discount... ! Good luck with it... Del
Hiya Del, well now I've seen the bike I kinda see what you were saying about the beast. Looks like a nice bit of kit brother! Basically it's a VN1500 wannabe 😂😂😂😂😂. Nah, looks the part bud. Need a tool, make a tool....... can't beat the concept can you. RSMB see you during the Summer. RSMB
Need a tool make a tool... never a truer word brother... and yeah, i wanna get some VN badges for the side panels..no one will ever know as long as you dont let on right..? Beers cold, see youz soon Del.
Delboy I always enjoy watching you use your tools, but really, a rubber grommet or zip tie on the wire work just as well. Oh, and this type of alignment check is not needed on the H-D touring bikes because they have alignment cams on the ends of the rear axle.
Dont have a Harley but it's a simple tool to make, I understand the charging of 15 - 20 £ for the tool as J G mentioned earlier. I visualised so many variants to keep the tool parallel to the swing arm axle arm whatever it is called but way too much work where a quick visual is all you need.
I asked black bear Newmarket HD for this tool and they told me today that they don’t do it and asked me the REASON why I wanted a wheel alignment tool. I thought the guy was having me on but he was dead serious. Why else would I of wanted to spend my hard earned cash?? I’m going to try make one my self, I don’t have the same tools as you but I’ll give it a good go 🤞
Nice cheap tool making tip Del so here's one in return. When clamping a thread into the drill chuck a few turns of wire or soft solder on the thread will protect it from any burring by the chuck jaws, if you knew that already apologies for the egg sucking lesson!
Hi buddy, I didn't know that one, and on an alloy bolt, that will be priceless.. but this bolt was 316 Stainless, and I didn't clamp it tight - thanks for the cool tip buddy !
Hello mate, just picked up a 2011 switchback and gotta drop the wheel out cos screw in back tyre, flat as xxxx. Absolutely would make my own tool but don't have a pillar drill or a grinder. Have you got a spare one you've made; I'll pay you for it (UK based) Cheers
Hi Kev, I don't have a spare one, if you have an electric drill and can mount it in a vice, you could still make the tapered head with a file, just be careful, alternatively you can buy tapered head allen bolts, I have them on my bike from the factory, am sure some supplier could offer them if you can't make one... it's just a case of measuring to the centre of the axle tube by whatever means works for you... if I had a few more requests for them, I would maybe make them, but I've never had a request till you asked now...!
ok Del, thanks for the swift reply and the info, much appreciated. I did manage to make up one for my road king out of a coat hanger but I'm always stuck on time with 3 million things to do so I'll probably end up buying the tool. Good vids fella, keep em coming, Cheers Kev
Good Day Del, I've been watching this video over and over. For some reason after you use the Scotch finishing mop, (which I guess is a buffer to smooth off the edges. It seems unclear as what you are doing with the nut and then back into the drill press. Could you clarify that for me, please. Thanks again.
Brilliant video mate, and loving the production. Even though I ride a Honda, I've just taken off my rear wheel for the first time ever (!!) and put it back on - and I feel unsure about the alignment, having used the typical Japanese alignment method like you described, so I'm going back down the garage now to make another form of alignment checking device loosely based on, and inspired by this, just to cross-check it :) All the best to you both!
Hej Del! Before I state my question, thanks a lot for all the practical tips on that Dyna! I learned a lot and I will do further on. I was looking for a video how to align the engine of a Dyna by setting the "dogbone" (that rod holding the engine on top of the frame) correctly. Is there more to come, or did I miss it 🤔 Nevertheless thanks for all the work you did on your videos. Have a peaceful Christmas and a happy new year!
Thanks for all your great work, very useful and also entertaining. I have used your advice sucessfully for all the work I have done on my 2007 Sporty. Your cool gadget, however is not suitable for that bike in the same way, as the measurements are taken between the axle nut and the swimg arm pivot bolt (both of them have a small indentation in the center). The principle works but you need a rod at least 550mm long (including the 57mm for the short arm which must end in a point, as does the adjustable slider). Keep up the good work and keep them coming.
Made the same thing Years ago. But I used a RC Airplane Wheel Axle and 1/8 inch piece of welding Rod . the Plane Axle already has a 1/8 inch hole in it for the rod with a set screw for adjustment and the axle stub end is used as a pointer for the bikes rear axle .
very tidy as per usual , would it be rude to ask who's bike it is and what is the difference between the one you just serviced and this...i guess I'm pre tempting an upcoming video? 💓
Moonfleet41 a beautiful thing buddy ...im sure it'll be a Labour of love so don't be conservative about the modifications and spread your love liberally then when all the works done you kip ☺👍
Thank you for the video, it's my turn to do this soon, bought a front brake rotor to replace and now I need to get one for the rear to match. I like those completely chrome covered shocks on that bike, I wonder if I could find full covers or shocks like that one has to fit an '05 Dyna Wide Glide?
Not sure if you'd find the covers as a retro fit Jeff.. but maybe a set of those shocks would just fit as a swap..? you'd have to check the spec first.. this was a 2012' Switchback.!
Hi Geoff, it's a Dyna FLD Switchback with custom paint in Harley Vivid Black and Empire White... plus a few more trick mods to make it look more vintage!
Harley alignment system is just unnecessary complicated. I did the adjustment on mine with a stick. They really should apply same system as other bike manufacturers.
@@Roger_Gustafsson Indeed, the Softails have a simple system, much like some Hondas and the touring bikes, even better, have a snail cam system, so you don't have to consider alignment, just rotate the axle and it states straight, actually better than most Jap bikes!
I know this is an old video, but the touring bikes have cams on the rear axle that require no alignment. Working at my local dealership we used a zip tie cut at a point on the 90 degree wire, the later models have a couple of mushroom caps that install in the axle holes with a center mark for alignment. Older Softails use the same method for rear wheel alignment as well, but newer ones use the front of the axle slot just in front of the adjuster as the point of origin for measurements.
Yes mate, an M10 acorn nut would be perfect... as long as it sits neatly in the centre of the axle hole, both sides, then you're good to go! I like your thinking buddy... no need to grind that one !
A pair of 8 foot fluorescent bulbs works even better. Prop them up a couple inches off the table on each side of the front and rear tires. Use a rubber band around them at the front and rear of the rear tire to keep them snug against the sides. The angle of the wheel as it sits in the frame in reference to the front wheel is very apparent now as the bulbs extend up past it. Get the gap on each side of the bulbs to the front tire the same on both sides and now the rear wheel is perfectly parallel and lined up with the front wheel. It will also show if your swingarm isolators are shit or not.
Hi Barry, no sadly the Sportster don't offer that, which is just daft, you have to use the 'dent' in the end of the swing arm pivot, one each side, it's a longer distance between than it is on the Dyna, but nevertheless, they are parallel either side... so you measure from the dint in the end of the swing arm pivot and the centre of the axle... hope that helps...
Hi there. Another very interesting video. Thanks for posting. I do have a question for you. I understand from an earlier video that you worked for a while at Bikerama in Hornsey. I worked there myself for over ten years but don't recall meeting you. When did you work there?
Hi mate, I worked there for a year from summer 1989 to summer 1990... I got the job there when one of the sales guys left to emigrate to Canada, so I joined the team with big ginger Roger in Sales, Steve Petri's mate, Mustafa (who did the buying with his Blue Mazda pick up), Trevor Burgess and BZ in thw workshop and who could forget - little Condo on the rags and polish - hardest worker in the firm! It was just before they upgraded everything and got Triumph in...!
We should perhaps meet up. I was there from 1991 until 2000. You certainly brought back some memories. Especially of Condo and BZ. I used to go and watch him play drums when he had his band, "Left Right and Centre" going. I assume Steve Petrie still had his VW Golf when you were there. He got rid of it when I worked for him and bought himself a rather nice Porsche that he used on track days. I went out with him occasionally and was amazed at how good a driver he was. Oddly enough, earlier today I was watching a video that was made in the workshop by ITV/W H Smith starring me and called The Story of the Motorcycle. That also brought back memories. Do you know if his mum, Sheila is still helping keep him on track? By the way, your videos really are very good and it was a mutual friend who told me about them. Keep them going and Good Luck.
Oh I see... so you joined after I left... I think Steve was lower down the food chain when I worked there, hadn't done quite so well at that point, he had a early M3 at the time, and was talking about buying a 5Series when I left... And yep, Sheila used to do the payroll and generally help out with admin., happy days aye?? We moved away to the south coast about a year after I left, where we've lived ever since ! Thanks for your very kind words on the videos, it's good to hear from you buddy... all the best, Del
I own a KTM and i still felt this is a good skill to know! So many applications and the cone centring device was logically always there in my mind but you showed how effective it can be! Thanks!
My 05 XL1200R doesn’t have the holes in the swing arm. If I were to try to measure from the center of the swing arm pivot point, the passenger pegs are in the way. Bummed......
Are the passenger foot peg mounts the same exact distance from the swing arm pivot point?.. if so.. then could you measure from them to the back axle..?
Moonfleet41 unfortunately they aren’t. I’m going to take them off and measure from the pivot. Hey, it’s a little more work, but wrenching on the Roadster is fun for me. Thanks for your fantastic channel. You do great work!
@@dwightwilson1764 OK, thats still a usable method, and without removing them... just measure the exact difference between the two sides..that will give you a constant subtraction to make from the shorter side.. if that makes sense?.. so if the left side is 10mm further back than the right.. then measure the right side... and compare to the left side minus 10mm.... easy right..?
I made one of these years ago. but I ether lost it or bent it, but sense then I have just used a steel rule and a nail. and have not had any issues over the years.
That drill bit was a tad warm Del lol. I made one a while ago but it wasn't as posh as yours, I have very small holes (8mm) and it was not too difficult to see the centre. I just cut the wire at the centre. Yours is more accurate but I'm guessing a thou or so is good enough. Keep 'em coming pal.
Hi Del n Penny, Nice wee tip, and I liked the use of the drill and grinder to make a cone. I'm spoiled with a lathe but you show what can be done without fancy gear. I noticed the bolt was a wee bit heavier when you took it out of the chuck as you seemed to let it go rather quickly.
In this cae I used a random metric M10 bolt and nuts because the head was big enough to grind down and make in to a point that fits neatly in the axle tube, plus the shaft is thick enough to drill a 3mm hole in to get the wire through.
Great stuff Del and a million times better than the rod/o ring and squint method I used on my Sporties. Maybe that's why they liked right hand bends best.... Tempted to get another Sporty to justify making this tool as far more fun than decrapping my Ducati engine casings!
What?? You left the darkside for a Mafia staff bike?? What possessed you?? Got and get another Harley today... even if it's just so you can make this tool and feel epic lol !
Feel epic today? No that's a the weekend when the special shorts and heels come out to play! Actually officer I only wear the heels in case I ever need to get both feet down on a MK1 BSA or Triumph OIF...
Honest to goodness i think there was some Devine intervention here. I just changed out my tires this weekend and THOUGHT I had the alignment right. I rode around town a bit and it seemed fine. This morning, I hopped on the highway, got up to about 70mph and my bike went in to a violent death wobble. The high speed weave you hear about. Well, I went back home and got in the car LOL. After work I started fussing with it and made myself a measuring tool - not as clever as yours. After adjusting it, I went on a run up the highway and it just barely wobbled. Came inside from the garage still scratching my head and low and behold there was your video in my suggested list. AND, I have a 2012 Switchback too. I tried your string wrapped around two nails trick but couldn't keep the 90 degrees true. Thanks for this video Del. If you decide to break your transmission open let me know LOL. I found a broken chunk of metal...looked like a gear tooth - when I change the fluid awhile back. I LOVE TO LEARN FROM YOU!!!
Hi Twyla, good to hear from you, and thanks for your kind support... we're really glad the video was able to help you, always drop us a line if you need any help... take care, and enjoy your Switchback ! All the best, D&Px
Hi Twyla, good to hear from you, and thanks for your kind support... we're really glad the video was able to help you, always drop us a line if you need any help... take care, and enjoy your Switchback ! All the best, D&Px
Too right mate... every 'product' you see available for a special job was developed from hack stuff from home that we made ourselves by a cocky entrepreneur who saw an opportunity!
