I've got an old poster I got from my grandfathers shop, that shows various plugs and how they look based on how your engine is running. Great vid man! Knowledge is power, love it!
Excellent advice. I am surprised by how many people want to rip into their carbs for a slightly lumpy idle on old bikes. My 1988 Super's V4 is a bit lumpy when it's first cranked over but the carbs are perfect. Once the engine is warm I can grab a handful of throttle and hold on for dear life! No stumble, surge, or any issues. It runs fine. At temp it purrs perfectly as if fuel injected. I would also add, that if the ignition system wasn't designed for platinum, iridium, etc plugs, the bike probably doesn't need them. Lots of snake oil sales out there. My local shop wanted to tear into my carbs for a "lumpy" idle. I put in new NGK's and a K&N Filter and it was bang on! Great vid. On another note, I am always amazed at your videos. On a single take, in a single run train of though you provide clear and concise advice and information! You don't even look like your thinking about it too much, the bike knowledge just flows like ale from a tap. Shows you are well versed in your craft. Enjoyed it a lot. Cheers! Mike
Hi buddy, thank you so much, that's very kind of you... I always use a very apt mantra when it comes to parts you don't need, such as iridium plugs on a carb bike... 'it's like putting Nike trainers on yer Granny... yes, they look cool, but she won't run any faster!' ... See you both in 5 days buddy !!!!!
Hi Del I had a broken left hand side throttle linkage on 1 and 2 cabs on my 1976 Honda CB 400 four so after replacing it with a spare I had to synchronise the carbs with 4 vacuum gauges your right it’s easy but a bit fiddly but in the end got them all spot on and now she ticks over like a Swiss watch.⚙️🔩🔧👍
spot on about not worrying to much and just revelling in the visceral nature of the old b12 lump' I love all the rattles, Whirrs , and occasionally farts on my 1200sx. Death to the balancer shaft!
Great tip Del, done the balancing on my old 1983 Gold Wing. Bloody nightmare up one cylinder down the other. Chasing me own arse all day. Mind you it did as it happen need it the engine before sounded like one of the cylinders had a piston about to be born. Guess that would be the one percent. Just my luck. Came good in the end but what a faff. Great tip and I'm sure your dead right.
Just found your channel. I am now on day three watching them all. ( sorry if I missed liking anyone of them, but I am sure, I will watch them all again ). Just one thing I was taught, before removing any spark plug, take the time to blow out the area so when you remove the plug, you don't let anything foreign drop into the combustion chamber. Cheers and thank you.
Great work Del. This is the kind of thing that was taught when I did my apprenticeship 20+ years ago, now sadly lacking for youngsters. Most can't even get apprenticeships anymore let alone actually learn things other than replace everything until the fault is cured.
Hi Ian, or sadly..."Plug it into the Autoscan test station, and read the fault code, then look up the remedy in the book"...(oh, and charge customer 2 hours labour for diagnosis lol)
This video has been refreshing. I myself don't own a motorcycle but I believe that the same concept applies to my 1971 Datsun/Nissan 240z with dual side draft carburetors. Iv seen many many videos on fuel mixture n such very complicated technical videos all a bit headache. I got my car running great so far (when I got it, it was all out of whack and one sucking more air than the other etc. all bad.) but was still wondering if I got the fuel mixture correct. Once I get some fresh plugs on there I'll be sure to check on that after a few hundred miles.
HeyDel, hope the recovery is going well. Ive been adjusting the carbs on my Tbird 900 after a carb rebuild. Used the same method as you apart from shutting the engine off at high revs. Took it for a blast and rode home as normal. Still got beige on two plugs, No 1 a little sooty so I'll give it a 1/4 turn in and retest.
Great advice, there's a story in them there plugs, you just need to learn to read. I didn't know how to do that test and it makes total sense now that you've explained that so well.
Thanks Peter... just passing on the ol' titbits... it's all about avoiding that period of idle as you pull up to check them, switching it off mid-flight freezes it whilst it's running on the main jet and gives you a true reading!
I realy needed that tuition Del, thanks.... I've been worried about the rough idle for ages, ever since I bought it really. I tried the balancing bit, found it quite easy realy and messed about with the air screw too. It hunts a little on tick over, 1200 to 1500 (Off choke and warm) and back again but when it's off choke and you get the revs up to 5K the thing takes off, it feals the cars are in reverse, it's frighteningly quick to get up to 110 and I've had it peak at 130 with a brand new rear tyre. I haven't for some reason seen the plugs, don't ask me why, because like you say, they tell you a lot about the running of the engine. I replaced the clutch recently following your video, that was a great help thanks for that. I nearly bought an SV650 for £6000 (Brand new 21 plate(Pre Reg)).... I'm still contemplating it....Lighter, Riding position is more upright, V twin (More torque, I have been told) I do love my W Bandit though....(See Avatar)
Sounds like your getting stuck on in there and enjoying it Michael, good to hear it mate, and take a practical look at the SV, in my opinion they may be a little different in characteristics, but they no way better than a Bandit... but that's just me.!
Cheers Del, for the advice, I had it set up on the dyno from my local honda dealer, the mechanic that set it up has been properly trained on the dyno, I also spoke to dynojet U. K. as I mentioned and he was helpful too, in as much as he suggested that I could get a more detailed set up for low to midrange riding as I don't do top end on a blackbird that often, so as you say il go back and see if the current set up can be improved , once again thank for the advice, especially on the "dont use supermarket petrol too often, " (just found out what you mentioned) anyway I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers mate.
+John. M. Hi buddy, good plan you have there, and just a final point on petrol.. switch over to full Super Unleaded from now on... it eliminates another issue and if you buy it from proper dedicated petrol stations only, you are doing the best you can on street fuel at least...!
Very good advice Del, I use a certain road for the WOT test to check the plugs, and my stopping point is right outside Biddy's Bar down by Donegal town😊,do the test and then a pint of stout (just the one) nice informative video M8. All the best Del/Penny and take care...Don.
Thanks Del, great advice. I've done the chicken strip removal you did on previous video and I intend to do this. My VTR1000 seems to idle low and occasionally pops/stalls on idle.
Hey great explanations, I have a car m/cycle carb conversion, and its sooty on one or two plugs, ( short runs/ idling too much) I now realise that it needs a good run, before that though I will clean all four filters. Many thanks.
Hi Del, thanks for the useful tips, great channel you have! Each time I watch one of your videos with my pregnant wife the baby starts kicking, she must like the sound of your voice haha!
Smashing :-)) And the correct heat rating of plug is essencial. A mates machine was dieing and hard to start, after i pulled the plugs they were black as coal, i had a fiddle with the mix to weaken it off, it started but was weak as a kitten, i came to the conclusion that the plug rating was wrongly stated, he needed a hotter grade of plugs. They were replaced and the mixture was reset to normal, perfect running and medum brown plugs :-) he asked the local bike shop later and they said they used the hotter grade for that machine type, it was a typical problem lol.
Moonfleet41 Ive never seen such a daft mistake untill now, shame he wasted his money before coming to me :-(( Never mind, he is happier than a bankers wallet now lol.
hello Delboy, please no need to respond, just wanted to thank-you for your great videos. the information and presentation is much appreciated and very well done. my motorcycle would be a real mes without your help. when i get my bike repaied I will send you a photo. Thanks Steve
Hi Del, first of all let me say how much I love your videos! The best around! Thank you for all your hard work! I am new to mechanics but would like to remedy this myself. I just bought a 2001 Bonnie with aftermarket exhaust. It's been running really high revs while idling and the exhaust near the top got cherry red and scared the crap out of me. And then when I pull the clutch in to stop, it seems to bog down a bit. It's not happy sitting still. Haha
Hi Lisa... good to hear from you...with your Bonneville, your pipes could never glow cherry red with the motor idling, there just isn't enough heat made by the motor to cause that....maybe at very high revs, maybe near the redline and held for some time..?... have you checked the idle screw to make sure its set correctly, or have you (or someone else) been fiddling with any other settings on the carbs..! have you checked the choke isn't stuck on...? information like this helps... cant guess at it Lisa.. let me know.. Del.
Excellent vid and gold mine of information....now if only my TLS would be kind enough to be like yer Bandit and comply to that test i would be a happy bear.
Hi del and penny, great vid again. Cracking. Just joined the triumph gang, got myself an awesome rocket 111. Just wondered what you think of them. Cheers.
I balanced the carbs on my bandit and it did make a huge difference at low revs while pootling around in traffic etc and it cured the idle issue... In truth took about an hour and thats all... Will add though that mine when i bought it was manky at low revs
Ayup mate, chances are unless someone has fiddled with it before, you could have had that rare one that drops out of sync... but it is a dark art getting them bang on, that's for sure!
Worth a t-shirt on it's own....not sure i'm going to buy any of that underwear you mentioned though. I would've gone with the hoodies next if it were my channel....still, up to you ;-) Pure gold as ever!
Thanks mate, we will be going with the Hoodies once we get a few shirts away, we have all the money invested in this first batch at the moment, so once the money comes back in a little we can get started on them. looking forward to those as i want one myself..lol... video on how to get a T-Shirt coming soon.. just waiting for stock.. all the best. Del.
Excellent information. Does this test work for the newer fuel injected bandits? I have an 2008, 1250 ABS. I will check the filter first but just curious. Thanks again.
Ye olde sage del boy , if your ever on tour in the emerald isle or as its known here, The big green sponge . Give me a shout ill buy you and penny a pint a plain . Thanks for all the info much appreciated
Thank you so much Eoin, that's very kind of you, and what an awesome place to ride a motorcycle.. and never mind the rain mate, it makes Ireland beautiful.! Keep safe and stay in touch. D&Pxx
Great info. I was just wondering the other day if i need to replace them or not cause they are only like 3 bucks each and since i own an 07 1200 sporty it only takes 2. Is there any way to clean them up (the rust on the exposed parts) or just dont worry about it? Its just more of a look thing for me cause my bike is running fine.
If they are the original plugs buddy from the factory, then they are 7yrs old already, so it can't hurt to replace them as they are so cheap, but functionally, they should still be more than fine and you can clean the exposed bits by brushing them up with the same brass wire brush... good luck, Del
i have a suzuki gaf600 i replaced the clutch switch on the handlebars and the bike did start and i tried to adjust the cable from the gears while the big was running and i had to stop the bike by emergency button. After that the bike wont start can you give me any advice? Thanks tony
Top video Dell! Poor boys technique: If you don't own feeler gauges and you're setting your spark plug gap, standard quality paper is 0.1mm thick, stack multiple pieces together to get the size you require. It won't be as accurate, but you can easily achieve the tolerances given.
@moonfleet41 From Canada, you are a good man! All your videos are extremely helpful. I have a 97 sporty 1200 which is a blast to ride. Great little scoot for my first. I have watched all the videos including the triumph and learn something new every single time. I'm in for a t shirt! Also thinking I may have to pick up a second for the wifey. Perhaps a triumph? What does penny think of the bonneville?
Hey buddy....Penny love the Bonneville, ive asked her several times if she wants her Harley back, and the answer is always NO...she loves the light and nimble handling, and the classic old school style.. Shirts will be ready soon and we'll post a video on how to get your hands on one...(or two lol) thanks for watching buddy, take care and enjoy your bike... Del.
Hello Del, greetings from Brazil!, great video as always. I bought a Honda 1988 cb450dx two cylinder with keihin carbs and want to put on pod filters and open exhaust but I cant find anywhere jetting or kits for these carbs do you have any recommendation? I think it they are the same as 1982 Honda CB450SC Nighthawk carbs that sold in the USA. thanks.
hi Rui, They will probably be very much like the earlier carbs, Honda dont change things if that are working properly... the only way to make them run properly if you develop a flat spot is to use a "Dynojet Kit" and set it up as per the instructions...im sure they they have a kit for your bike or similar... www.dynojet.com/jetkits/ Good luck with it my friend.. Del.
Hi Mark, no not at all, you can check plugs any time, probably best to let it cool down a little bit though so you don't burn your hands... unless you're doing a 'plug chop', where you ride along, cut the engine and take them straight out... but in usual terms, checking can be hot or cold...
Hi, I have a Triumph Scambler 2016 EI. The bike did not run for 2 years. Just put a batterie but bike just want start. I have to clean the tank. It had full rust inside. The bike has zero mileage. How can I get the bike to turn on. What should I look at?
Hi Del, iv just had fitted a new full exhaust system to my blackbird, it's a kinda new type called a black widow system , it also has a pc111, and been set up on a dyno, thing is its not as smoothing all areas as it was with just the original exhaust system +pc3, black widow & dynojet don't have a specific map to give me to download, so I'm looking at any other way of making the engine smoother, and trying also to improve pickup. Cheers Del.
+John. M. OK, understand... the problem is not dirty injectors, I can assure you - the Black Widow is a completely new system to the market and there will be no fixed maps for it yet (but am sure it won't be long)... however, for now, all you need to do is take the bike to a decent reputable tuning shop and invest in some dyno time to get your power commander properly set up for your pipe... if you are in the south, then Moore Speed Racing will be the best place... !
Hi Del, I've fitted a pipe to my 2012 650 vstrom I've checked the plugs, but I'm colour blind and have difficulty assessing the colour. "Quite light" it runs ok and doesn't pop or bang on the over run. It's fuel injected and has the senior in the pipe. Should check out a power commander or have her remapped? We've also been up at 5000 feet and still runs fine, but don't know if I'm doing long turm damage :-( hope you can give me some guidance. Thank you so much for a great channel.
Hi buddy, good to hear from you... don't worry too much on this sort of thing... fuel injection systems can sort out an awful lot of little changes without you having to worry. The colour of the plugs wants to be about the same as a Rich Tea biscuit lol... and that is good and healthy! Remember, EFI bikes are designed to run lean, so just for good measure, and if you can afford it, always run the bike on 'super un-leaded' if you can...and that way, you will always have the richest fuel available to take care of that hot running issue... the only real damage could occur on a red hot summer's day idling in traffic, but it's a water cooled engine with a fan, so if all is working well, it should be fine! Hope that helps!
Hi Del, many thanks for takin' the time to reply, I infact we all appreciate what you an your good Lady PP put in to give us an insight what the bikin culture is all about....what with your full time job and filming an editing not to mention your own bike building, where do you find the TIME to ride your own bikes 😬 Many thanks to you both. Oh yeah, keep it shiny side up😎
This method remains the same for Fi Engines as well? Or do we just rely on the Fi to get the mixture right? Also, will open loop or closed loop systems behave differently?
+Anagh Desai Barring the fact most EFI engines run leaner, and have an active control via the ECU, then the actual check is the same, but quite simply you shouldn't need to do it, as any EFI motor should run correctly all the time in all conditions! Unless, of course, you've changed the inlet and exhaust outside the range of the ECU's adjustment... in which case, you just 're-map' it at the dealers...
Hi Delboy, I'm hoping you can help with a problem I'm having because I can't seem to find a video on it from you...or anyone. It "seems" like my bike (2001 HD-XLH-1200) has an intake leak, but I went out this morning and purchased new seals for the manifold to the cylinders and to the carburetor. After following a video showing how to install the new seals, and how to reassemble it properly so that it is completely centered, the bike has the exact same issue. The bike will turn on and stay on if I have the choke out, but will turn off as soon as I push the choke in. I've also replaced the spark plugs. Within the last 60 days I replaced the starter coil and wires to the plugs because one side of the coil had corrosion. In early August I had a new air filter put on, the shop also had to do a little carb work because the float needle was stuck.The bike was in the shop Friday getting a new rear rim and tire, the previous week it got a new front rim and tire. I had done a clutch adjustment in-between, as well as replacing the oil and trans/primary fluid with Amsoil products. The night before I removed the rear exhaust to do a bit of work to the pipe, then replaced it. Shortly before this happened I was sitting in traffic and noticed the bike was idling higher than usual. I had just been riding it for about 8-10 minutes through a winding road before I came to the traffic. Once I pulled into a parking lot and turned it off, it made a gurgling noise for 6-8 seconds. I went into the store for roughly 10 minutes and tried to turn it on, that's when the fun started. One other, probably big thing I should mention, I purchased this bike in July of 2020 with roughly 5,500 miles on it, but the bike had been sitting in a garage for a little over five years before I got it. With all the fluids still inside. I removed and replaced all the fluids and have had almost no problems (aside from the float needle) while putting on about 2,200 miles since then. I'm providing all these details so you can get a better picture of the bike, rather than just what happened in that one moment. In short, I don't know if it's actually a manifold leak, in a HD forum I was told it probably is, but after "fixing" the problem and the bike is still doing the same thing, I'm not so sure. Looking in the manual under the troubleshooting "engine is difficult to start" I'm not sure what to try next. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hey Luke, my word, that's a big message... ok, to your idling issue, I'm sure it's down to some form of dereliction related decay, any bike that's sat for 5yrs, or more, can be a nightmare... things perish and seize up, corrosion gets in to the system and this starts to cause grief... and as you're doing, it's a process of elimination... fast idle can be an air leak, but you say it's shutting on unless on choke? So are you sure the idle is correctly set and not closing completely? Take the air filter off, look in the carb and see that when the butterfly is closed there is a small gap at the bottom to allow enough air through to idle... it mustn't be shut and sealed.... pulling the choke on opens this a little, so that's why it could be idling on choke. Also, check the diaphragm in the top of the carb isn't split, other than that, I would need the bike in front of me to start doing eliminations, but reading your message, it could be that, or you have some dirt in the system from corrosion in the tank, so replace the fuel hose, re-kit the fuel tap with new seals and make sure your tank breather isn't trapped, kinked or blocked, as the tank won't feed fuel out if it can't breath air in.... hope that helps and good luck with it.
@@Moonfleet41 My apologies, I thought I replied earlier today, but I never hit send. Anyways, thank you for all of the info and for taking the time to steer me in the right direction. I checked everything out, seemed fine, so I checked inside the carburetor. I removed both jets and they were clogged. I cleaned them and bathed them, put them back in, then buttoned everything back up. Turned out to be just what she needed. Running like new again, better than when I first got her. Thank you again for all of your help!!
Hi del can I ask a question im having probs with my 95 model 600 on tickover its missing quite bad iv changed all the plugs but its still the same on my plugs iv got cr9ek with two prongs but on amazon their cr9ek have the one prong would that make a difference thanx mark
Hi Connor. Those "two prongs" you refer to sound like "SplitFire" plugs, they are of no real benefit, and the company even got fined for claiming they are better in all sorts of ways...but they aren't. There are many things that can cause running problems, but for a start, you could stick a set of proper spark plugs and a clean air filter then see how it sounds..?
Hi Del, sorry to be a pain, this is the closest video I can see to the questions that I have, in the motoring section of Halfords, auto save, even in your local supermarket, I've seen petrol injector cleaners, which say they improve the running, fuel efficiency etc, I Google it to look at the reviews, and it's 50/50, some say good some say bad, have you tried it, what's your view?, cheers Del, thought the last Q&A was both lnformative and very enjoyable to watch, keep safe.
+John. M. Hi buddy, on a modern engine these days, they burn so lean and clean, that cleaning injectors is largely irelevant... you don't get the dirty black sooty deposits on injectors like you did in old 80's cars, so as long as you use the right octane petrol and not from the supermarket too often, you shouldn't need to use it... what are you trying to achieve mate?? And what has made you look in to it??
Hi Del , Just one question pal .. My TL 1000 R, always seams to stall while slowing down through the gears, should i keep the rev`s up really high that some times helps ,, or is it the norm on the TL`s, ? , thanks pal
Hi Bryan, no mate, no bike should stall whilst you are riding it... your tick over will be the issue, when you drop down through the gears without the obligatory throttle blip as you drop down, then the revs will drop to idle each time... and if the tick over is a little too low it could cause it to cut out... check your tick over is correct, you may have it too low on the adjustor knob, many people with v-twins presume it should be a nice rhythmic thump at idle, like Harleys, when in fact Jap twins should be about 1100rpm... check the specs and see how you go with that first ... Del
from the previous videos I've seen usually your advice has been pretty reliable but on this video I think you really missed the mark. Yes it's true the plugs are the gauge for the bikes mixture but your view on the unimportance of having balanced carbs is bullocks. having balanced carbs especially on older multi cylinder bikes is as important has having the correct jetting. Balancing doesn't just effect the idle, on bikes like my yamaha XJ650 because the balance directly effects the amount vacuum pulled it can effect the amount of fuel pulled when running on the pilot circuit can effect the mixture and the way the bike runs up through 1/8 throttle. after you've accelerated to the speed you want and you're just in cruise mode to maintain the speed on just about any 4 cylinder bike with CV carbs you are going to be cruising at 1/8 throttle or less and thus directly effected by the carbs balance....
I personally before checking fuel mixture like that, would check first spark plugs, ignition coils, leads, spark plug caps. because if spark plug colors are different,can be one of these Reasons!
del can i ask your advice my varadero 125cc has been running for 2 or 3 years now without the baffle in the end can . this last month or so at the higher revs the bike feels like its running out of petrol. i fitted the baffle in the can just to see dont ask why i thought of it but all is well again with the bike. can you advise me what to check as i dont understand why it doesnt like to run without the baffle anymore at higher revs anyway . i was told maybe i have a burned out exhaust valve and fitting the baffle helps stop the unburnt gases going out.
Hi mate, in re-fitting the baffle you have returned a little back pressure to the system and a little125 motor should never run on a wide open pipe without re-jetting the carb accordingly... if you are worried about the mixture, check the plugs as per the video and maybe give the engine a good service, oil, filter, air filter, etc., and see then how it performs... good luck, Del
del thank u i do try to keep my bike serviced myself with the help i got from your videos over the years top man you are. i change my oil and filter every 2000 miles last change was just 2 days ago at 9000 miles on the clock. i did a plug chop and the plugs looked fine. iam just a little worried as the guys on the forum are saying that maybe the exhaust valve are burnt out. saying this if thats the case would the motor run real bad as when the baffle is installed in the bike its running like a new bike all the way through the revs. also i have balanced my carbs as well because on this varadero 125 the rear carb needs set at 3cms lower than the front because of the way the bikes setup from factory eg the front and rear downpipes are different diameters rear being alot thinner also rear carb has smaller jets than the front. thanks del much appreciated
Moonfleet41 i did a plug chop and the plugs looked fine. iam just a little worried as the guys on the forum are saying that maybe the exhaust valve are burnt out. saying this if thats the case would the motor run real bad as when the baffle is installed in the bike its running like a new bike all the way through the revs. thanks del
Del, they weren't saying "carbs" they were all saying, "Del, can you do a video on how to change CAMS"! ... Actually, with the Bonny I'm going to have to re-jet after I change the exhaust and pull the air box. How do I know what size jet to use?
Hey Jeff....I spoke with a guy here who fitted the British Customs airbox removal kit, and he said it ran just fine...and i always advise to just fit all the shit you want to roll with, then see how it runs...you know right away if it needs rejetting as you'll have a hole in the rev range....if it has no flat spots, just do a plug check as in this video to make sure....and leave it alone.... but i you have running issues, then you need a "Dyna Jet" kit.... they come with height adjustable needles, and a range of main jets...also come with instructions on how to remedy each given symptom...e.g. flat spot at 3k, lift needle one notch, and fit larger main jet etc etc.... either way, they work and cots pennies buddy... good luck with it.. Del.
HI JOn, well id say its probably time for a new set...but with todays modern fuel, and regular use, a set of plugs can last 70K miles in extreme cases.. so no big deal mate..!
Good video del :) my friend just bought a 1993 cbr600 and the previous owner has fitted a blue flame exhaurst and the bike is not running well at all. He took to a bike mechanic he messed about with the carbs but it's still the same. Do u know what it could be ? Thanks del :)
Hi Jack....not easy without seeing or checking a few things on the bike....but if you have a flat spot after fitting an open exhaust, then the best route is just to fit a Dynajet kit and set it up according to the instructions... that usually sorts it out.
Now then - informative as always - I did balance my carbs - took me a while like you said to get em right - but my tick over did seem to perform a lot better afterwards. It didn't seem to hunt quite as much when it was done. I use K&N filters but haven't got a kit yet to refurb them or whatever it is it does heh... Have fun keep safe - cheers - Nige ps Monkey T 4 me plz...:D
If you do the plug colour test Nige, and it comes out correct then no need to fit the Dynajet kit, as long as running smooth from tick over to red line! (Video update on t-shirts, how to order, etc., as soon as they land with us!)
5:36 - not trying to be mean, hateful, or anything. However; this was kind of funny. Kind of like watching your professor actually crack a funny joke at a really focused point of the lecture. Was pretty good.
Controls from idle, up to about 1/8th throttle depending on the bike...some its up to 1/4 throttle...but basically, the first bit to get you onto the main jet..!
Budd Hudd it depends on the throttle opening, not the revs or gear you're in.....and that will be effected by gradient and weight...so if you're riding solo, and a light rider, and on the flat...and as long as the throttle is under 1/4 off the stop, then yes, pilot circuit!
Alright Del, I took my plugs out of my bike on highest gear at highest throttle cus its bogging down. One is rich and wet around the thread. and the other is really lean. How does that work? haha cheers!
As long as the electrode tip is not erroded, and the plug is clean, they why not? I regularly use spark plugs for at least 30k miles, and even then it feels a waste to throw them away - in modern lean burn clean running engines, some plugs are not advised to change before 70k miles - the belief in changing plugs every service is a relic from the old days of oily, sooty engines that coke them up with gunge...
Stock filter/jet/exhaust system owners can happily skip this test and just check that the needles are set to manufacturers default. IMO the video name is a bit misleading. It should be something like "Checking Your main jet mixture". This 10 mile test tells nothing about your idle and low throttle mixture, which is crucial for a smooth idling/take-off/cruising and is (sadly) much easier to detune if somebody messes with the carbs.
Hi mate, I absolutely love the Rocket, and have since they came out, just cos they are gloriously daft... keep promising myself one some day, but just never seem to get near it! Let us know how you get on with it and have a look in to the 'dark side' tyre trend for the back wheel, it will save you a fortune with the way they munch through back boots!
Shut it down @ 5-6000 rpm check the plugs, now there is something new ive just learned....... You dont find that in the Haynes manual, & to think all those loast weekends in my youth pulling my plugs & re setting points on my ol carbed cars were spent in vain......... Damn now ive got a carbed Bike......... Lol.
+Robert Cole Yep, cut the ignition at 5k+, that wya yu get the reading at the point it matters... if you let it idle, even fore 20 seconds, you get the idle reading... easy innit..
I found a pair of beige pants to compare my bandit plugs with, the trouble started when I took them off my neighbors washing line, she is no longer talking to me but there is a Sergeant from the local Constabulary who is calling this afternoon and he is really keen to talk to me. Oh well you win some, you lose some.
Ah, i see, perhaps he is keen to know your results for his bike...?. also, maybe he would like to borrow said pants for the weekend..? presume nothing brother..!!
I dont use Irridium coated plugs buddy...and on motors that do use them, they hardly ever foul up in the old carbed motor way..! but a soft brass brush, stroked gently wont hurt the coating if you go careful... thats if you need to at all..!
all I can say u know a lot of yester year..... how to do without equipment. example I broke down called AA the guy came out with battery tester. I thought asked him if you didn:t have that are it broke what would u do he had no answer,,, I told him in past years gone by we would get engine started and remove terminal from battery alt was good if it ran with everything on.... he couldn't understand......
Hi Jerry... There's politics in this buddy.. todays car and bike manufacturers make vehicles to be sealed and not touched... they run the vehicle with electronic systems that only they can attend to.. but under all the trickery, the same old principles of physics still apply, its still "suck-squeeze-bang-blow" like its always been.. never hurts to have a few basic old school skills aye. Thanks for watching.
