L300 superExceed 4d56 Trying to resolve the low frequency sound/vibration that is most noticeable in the cab at low rpm. you may need decent headphones to fully hear the sound as it is a low frequency.
I know a few years late. But in my experience with mine with the data I've collected. For Minor issues the solutions have been listed by other people bellow. With Fuel and filters causing issues. Personally I have replaced these and still have a similar yet much more severe problem. For MAJOR issues. History of the vehicle helps. The exhaust on my car touches the chassis which produces loud noises and goes away at idle. This exhaust is incomplete but beyond my budget to fix straight away. I've identified my engine has around 80 PSI difference between it's lowest and highest cylinders, and the rings are not sealing 100% of the pressure which leaks out quickly. This means that the 2 cylinders that are holding pressure have the highest production in power, and the lowest two cylinders with low retention of air have the lowest production in power. This imbalance will cause vibrations at low RPM as the compressed air can escape quickly. At higher RPM, the air will still escape quicker but the RPM will be high enough that it does not escape as quickly. Bringing the balance in power between cylinders closer until the engine is loaded in which case the air tends to escape quicker. Compression test your engine. Note this will only tell you how high your compression is maximum. It's only the build up not retention. Leak down test your engine. Note this will tell you the duration in which your motor holds air or how fast it leaves the cylinders. This will help identify open valves, blown head gaskets or even bad rings/cylinders. When your engine is in a situation like mine. Don't push the car anymore. You run too many risks and then when you get lazy a little bit you might not be able to recover and undo your mistake. Use it without load. If you live in a hilly region and regularly load up your engine, consider getting another vehicle or having that engine reconditioned... Then look after it with your regular maintenance of Fuel, Air, Oil, Coolant, Hoses, Belts and any other's that are regular for the system to operate properly.
Thanks for the reply. I did a partial engine rebuild last year and I have fixed the problem (still a loud and rattly engine but it's down to an acceptable level for delica standards). I never determined the cause of the problem but what I did certainly helped. My compression was out slightly before the rebuild but not by much. I did not do a leak down test, but I think you are dead on with needing to use that info as well as build up compression. After what you've said here I'm guessing it was a leaky head gasket contributing to some cross feed of pressure between cylinders. I'm sure my old piston rings contribute to some remaining vibration, but it really isn't bad now. Build up compression is in spec. Rebuild: New head Head gasket Timing system & bushings Oil pump sleeve & case gasket All rubber hoses Oil cooler diversion gasket Oil pan & seal Alternator All belts Crank pulley New injectors (pressure tested by me) Glow plugs Fan clutch Injection pump tune ...and custom intercooler Now she rips and I feel super confident in engine reliability
@@ajdayvie7470 Cool! Based on how your car performs. Does it struggle uphill on inclines of 12-16 degrees around 90-110km. No need for Miles your gauge is in km. My Ute blows the head-gaskets between the cylinders and the bypass goes into the coolant chambers pushing out coolant. Last time it blew it did so in different spots on Cylinders 3 and 4. So I use Hylomar on my head-gaskets now since it helped a lot preventing a blow out on the head-gasket. Also a piece of advice from my experience. Don't over torque the head-bolts, you'll have valves slapping the pistons which is not good. Probably because my heads been ground 3 or more times. But still.
Good strong engines these 4d55 or 4d56 or the modernized Hyundai Kia Version the D4CB (differences are a Garret Turbo, 138BHP, Chain Drive, Common Rail).
I've done so much work on my engine at this point it is hard to pinpoint the specific cause. However, it does seem likely to be a head gasket failure. You may not necessarily be loosing pressure to the exterior of the engine, it could be leaking from cylinder to cylinder causing an imbalance in pressure. You can do a leak down test as described in a previous comment to determine this. Also, do all regular maintenance first, including checking the timing and pressure testing the injectors. Good luck
It means the rear door is unlocked. Locking it with the key or with the button labeled 'gate lock' to the right of the steering column will turn the light off.
Like Bryan has said, it's likely a resistance in the fuel system and for me it's probably at the pump. It smoothes out at higher rpm because the pump can deliver more pressure when it speeds up. I've never really solved it but I made it a lot better by fiddling with the injection timing, cleaning fuel lines, new filter, and new injectors. The only things left are the pump itself and the pickup lines from the tank. It's more of a livable level of vibration now, so I just ignore it. Good place to start would be with a new fuel filter, I do mine about once a year now. Press the hand pump on top of the fuel filter a few times while the engine is idling, if it idles better, it might be time.
