Not only was your video informative but it was so damn enjoyable to watch. Even the little bobbles where the whiteboard fell down made this feel so down to earth and pleasant to learn. A plus plus
"POSING" as in staying still and not moving whatsoever, i.e., fixed-location, non-mobile target paper-punching. Targets usually do not simply offer stationary status to the shooter. That is my point. I understand that center in SFP or FFP will always be faithful and remain true. Thank you again for the great videos you allow us to watch through your channel. Best to you.
Man ive watched over a dozen videos on this exact thing now and only just now with your video can i say i fully understand of this all works! What a relief to finally have a good grasp on this stuff! Thanks my friend! Excellent video as always!!!
Amazing!!!! Simple, yet thorough and entertaining. That is what I deem worthy of viewing. Kudos to you Mr. Brancato (sp?). Thanks to you and to your cameraman for a detailed and understandable discourse of FFP vs. SFP. Unless one likes to do math constantly, or has a detailed DOPE book, or is endowed with perfect recollection of math and algebra problems, I recommend the easier FFP for long distances, but for close-up hunting, the SFP has its uses, and it is also less expensive than its metric counterpart.
The advantage of a SFP scope is that you maintain a large reticle throughout the entire zoom range. As we get older, this certainly can be helpful due to deteriorating eyesight. There are times when a FFP reticle is just too small to be of any use at lower powers. Yes, the holdover values when using anything but the highest power have to be considered on an SFP scope, but if you use half the zoom, you simply cut the holdover in half, and you maintain a nice reticle size. If you dial elevation correction, there is no difference with either type of scope.
Agree. Many FFP get too small when zooming out. This would be so easy to correct with a proper reticle design. Don't know why anyone hasn't thought of it if I did.
Thank you for an entertaining and informative presentation. Now I have more question than when I started to watch the video :) I was leaning towards buying an SFP scope but I am having second thoughts now, what would be your recommendation for shooting at a moving target between 100- 200 meters distances using a 9mm carbine with minimal need to adjust or calculate? Also could you do a video about explaining what is holdovers/holdunders, I hear lots of terminology being used but no explanations as what they mean. Regards
yeah, interesting to see that in practical terms, i have one airgun that i zeroed in at 10 yards, so its not at or even close to "apogee" so a lot of shots are above the center of the reticle. And now i understand why :)
PS. In one of your explanations to a viewer, you state, "Center in SFP is always center." True and accurate, the difficulty lies in the holdovers/holdunders, and windage at the different distances. That is unless the POA (point of acquisition) on the intended target is actually POSING for the shot - a difficult proposition in 99.99% of instances.
Please explain, as I wish to understand your comment. I'm not quite following the statement "That is unless the POA (point of acquisition) on the intended target is actually POSING for the shot - a difficult proposition in 99.99% of instances" My point was that for a Second Focal Plane scope, the point of impact at a certain range doesn't change with power at the center of the crosshairs (i.e. where they meet in the center of the scope), but the rest of the dots will. Though obviously the POI will change as the distances vary. Are you stating something different?
I don't understand why in the last example with the gopher the next distance after the zero at 50 yards would not have a higher impact than the middle of the cross hairs, let's say 60 yards. Ultimately the impact is going to drop at much further distances of course.
i think this is assuming "apogee" is at 50 yards, so it all depends on the round/velocity you are shooting, but if you are sighted in at roughly the top of the arch (apogee) then no shot will ever be above the center dot in the reticle.
Thanks for asking. THIS IS FOR Second Focal PLANE: The change in scale is relative from the center of the scope. The picture on a 2nd FP Zooms out from the CENTER, so center stays center. I.e. The center of the cross hair is always the center regardless of power., but if you double the power, then you double the number of dots required. (or the distance from dot to dot is halved, however you wish say it) Hence, if you are dead on at 0 dots from the center, you will still be 2 x zero dots, or again, zero dots for a SFP scope. The picture on a 2nd FP Zooms out from the CENTER, so center stays center.
Hello Kurt, If you are hunting game that is large enough, and at a close enough range, to allow a lower magnification, I would agree with you 100%. But in a situation where I am shooting ground squirrels or pararie dogs at 400 yds. + with a scope such as 6-24x, or 8-32x, a ffp scope will cover the target completely. Best regards.
