It never occurred to the U.S. Army during WW2 that the M1A1 paratrooper carbine might make for a useful tank crew or armored combat vehicle crewman's Personal Defense Weapon (PDW), although that term did not exist back then. But the U.S. Army acknowledged the need for a defensive carbine in 1936 and 1940 for soldiers who were not first-line combat infantry, such as artillerymen, mortarmen, radiomen, mechanics, supply troops, administrative troops, etc. The U.S. Army typically supplied one M1 or M1A1 Thompson submachinegun per tank. Later on, this became one M3 'greasegun' submachinegun per tank. The rest of the tankers carried a revolver or M1911A1 semi-auto pistol. Yet a lot of American tankers surreptitiously obtained more small arms, such as M3 submachineguns for the rest of the crew. Evidently no thought about supplying M1A1 carbines to tankers. For that matter, the M1A1 would have been even more suitable for combat service and combat service support troops like clerks, cooks, supply personnel, truck drivers, etc., than the regular M1 Carbine. The M1A2 Carbine entered the war in the spring of 1945 so that vast majority of wartime carbines are the early M1 versions with the L-shaped, two aperture, flip up rear sight. The advantage the M1A1 would have over the M3 greasegun is longer range. The M1A1 was effective out to about 200 yards although in modern observation, 150 yards for effective stopping power was tops. The M3's effective range was 50 yards, compared to 25 yards for the M1911A1 pistol. The M3 could probably still hit out to 75 yards if the buttstock was extended and properly used with proper aiming.
Annoys me that I had quite a few mgc replicas back in the 80's that were really accurate but denix don't really seem to care about accuracy as much...cheap but as there's no other companies making them there's no competition....
I have an Auto-Ordnance reproduction M1A1 Carbine. I love taking mines shooting out in the desert here in Nevada or on cross country road trips for self protection. Very handy and accurate at short range like very close to 50 or 100 meters. Good for close range combat. 😊❤
Been thinkin about buying one just for fun. There's a decent priced one at my local gun shop. Not the a1 though. If I can't find a granand for a cheaper.
Hello. I hope you can translate this. If you have an M2 carbine my best advice would be to load up as many pictures as you can find on the internet and compare them to what you have. But I have not heard of fake selector switches?
These make a good display item, but not great for general reenactment as the stock is quite fragile. I bought an Auto Ordinance stock and dropped an Air Venturi M1 Carbine action into it.
Thanks. I cannot actually remember. I borrowed a tub of something off my mate. I have just messaged him so he can tell me what it was called. Any dark woodstain will do if you go into a DIY store and find one you like the colour of and when I hear back what the oil was that I added onto top I shall let you know :D
@@Truffle1947 I have just finished working on my Denix M1 Carbine. I disassembled it and used Danish dark oak wood stain on it and it looks much better.
I am afraid I do not know for sure but I seem to remember soneone saying you can. Might need a little modification. Sorry I cannot give a certain answer
@@ericwalter651 If you can find a stock cheap I would give it a shot. You can also get really nice repro folding stocks that I do know will fit as I have seen them on denix more than once!
Yeah that is true. I did that to me denix Garand as it was a bit of a mess when I got it. If you use the right shade then oil it you csn get a nice effect.
This is what I did to my Denix M1A1 carbine: 1). Refinish the wood in Dark Walnut (getting rid of that horrible orange finish) 2). "Parkerize" the gun parts and wire stock using a Gray Primer spray paint. 3). Get rid of the unsightly bolt holding the handguard in place, using a real 2 rivet handguard w/ metal lip. 4). Drill a hole near the front of the stock to install a barrel band spring. 5). Add a real oiler, sling and M1 pouch. 6) Cartouched the wood stock using Bardall's cartouche copper stamps. 7). Oh I almost forgot: Grind the molded "flip selector switch" into a "push button" selector switch to give it the early look. Takes some work, but it's worth it!