Hello all, Just wanted to add my experience on this method. Way before this video back in 1998 I had a leaking built up tar and gravel roof on a slightly pitched addition to my house. I removed the entire old roof back to the rafters and installed sheathing, then I installed a cap a layer of peel and stick roll roofing ( I think it was a GAF product) and then a final layer of sand coated roll roofing. Since it was my own house I followed the instructions carefully and took my time rolling the surface with a 100 lb roller to ensure good adhesion. Well here we are in 2022 and the roof is still in great shape, hardly even find any sand in the gutter when I clean them. PS Funny thing is when I did my roof Home Depot did sell the system.
Fantastic and Perfect instructions! I just bought Tri-Built SA Plybase and SA Cap and yall described to a Tee exactly how to apply it so that it will Last Long term! Thank you buddy! I would also like to give a shout out to Mike at Beacon roofing in Lexington Kentucky They were So Helpful!!
You covered the details very well that other youtubers just blow over.!!! Yah, I dont understand why Home Depot does not have this. Menards (North and mid-east US) have a similar Torco brand in stock. One Torco is self stick, with a base underlayment , the other is torch on. Who wants to use the torch stuff? No one.
You should always cut your first row of base sheet halfway in its width so you dont end up with a seam on seam when you start your cap sheet. I noticed in your other videos aswell you fail to do so. Very important step to not skip.
You know the only thing this video lacks is showing the same install with a railing system on the edge. I don't do videos but think that would be great for diy ers.
I noticed on one of your last reply, you switched to epdm. Would you recommend a low slope roof, then epdm, then 2" lightweight cement over that ..... looking for a permanent roof that I'll never have to touch
hi pls i need your advice i have an old tar and gravel low slope 2 1/2 roof i had lot of leaks this year what if i go with the GAF liberty product without ripping off the tar only clean up the gravel do you think it would work? and if it does how many ply should i go with base and cap sheet or only cap?
What brand of self adhered underlayment & cap sheet do you recommend? I have yet to find a tutorial on how to reroof around vents with large conical caps - please give instructions. I'm a DIYer that wants an easy as possible flat roof low slope install. Flats roofs are common in NM, however there are not enough videos that tackle all the issues primarily reroofing canales & vents. Thanks!
Thanks. Just curious why the base layer sticks right to the plywood? Would a nail down layer not work and then the base self stick layer then the cap sheet?
It has a rubberized asphalt adhesive on the underside of it that's similar to tar when it's warmed a little bit. It doesn't need a nail down layer but it may be wise to use it so in the future when it's time to replace it'll come right up and not be stuck to the plywood
Buddy can I ask you a couple questions I gotta do my son’s roof and he just has a couple of square flat on each side that goes into a pitch roof for the first row I want to put drip edge and I want to put Tar under the drip edge and on top of the drip edge and then put the liberty on top of it will roofing cement stick to the liberty because I know the liberty has a glue and I want to tar the drip edge in and put the liberty on top of it is that OK
I have a roof in CT that looks flat to the eye and is a black 10 ft seams wide material covered with a layer of pea sized rocks. It is completely drained after a rain in about 2 hours, and completely dry after 4-6 hours. What peel and stick product will work on this? Most contractors that have looked at the roof have no clue. I want to strip it down, replace any bad plywood than use a peel and stick application only, (no fumes allowed). Any advice from anyone is much appreciated. Thanks
I’m using Polyglass. Some supply houses use it as their store brand. There are other manufacturers. Call your roofing supplier to see what they have. You need peel and stick base sheet which comes in 200 sf rolls. Each cap sheet (top sheet with colored granules) come in 100 sf rolls. It is better to use 2 inch by 4 inch edge metals. That’s 4 inches of metal on the deck and 2 inches down the face of edge of patio. Paint the 4 inch part or edge metal with an asphalt primer from roofing supplier or if you can’t get that use (carefully cause it’s messy) rubberized tar. 1) roll out base sheet over decking. Line up and pull film 2) trowel rubberized tar on perimeter edges. 3) install edge metals seating in tar 4) install cap sheet directly over the top of base and metals.
No. I suppose you could with simplex nails or metal heads. They are like plastic caps with metal heads instead of plastic. I’m told the plastic will dissolve.
I bought the GAF tri ply base sheet 75 which is almost like a sandpaper feel to it. I was told this is a new material base, not like the older tar paper. I am worried that my peel and stick cap sheet will not stick to the base paper. I planned on using nails and Henry’s at the edges to install. Any recommendations on the cap sheet?
Great video, thank you. Can you recommend an adhesive to use for extra adhesion? (Roofer installed when it was a bit cool out and edges/corners are flapping a bit.) Thanks again.
If you stick the base layer to the decking, it will never come up. So, 20-25 years later when it's time to reroof, you have a problem. You cannot remove the old "stick down" material, and may have to remove the plywood or OSB. A better method is to put a "nail down" underlayment such as felt paper, or the felt substitute 4' wide shingle underlayment, I think it's called. Then when reroofing time comes, even if you are dead or long gone, the old roof can be removed by the new guy, 25 years younger at least. It is important that the "nail down" layer be very flat and nailed with "lots" of nails. This keeps the stick on material from flying off in wind or whatever.
@@carloreyes8866 Yes because the manufacturer don't care when you have to redo your roof. They only care that their product works to protect your roof for that duration. You will have lots of problems redoing your roof if you stick it to the drywall.
THD sells base sheet and top sheet. They dont sell primer for the wood sheeting underlayment. GAF recommends priming the wood before base sheet is applied. You dont prime first before base sheet. i guess its not necessary?
I'm doing research myself getting ready to try and do this. From what I see they make their cuts first so its light enough to carry up. I want to know how they get the damn 100 lb roller up there if your on your own??
Hi I have a patio cover we are building and the roof is just plywood, do I keep to roll primer first to protect the plywood or does the base sheet cover all that?
We are in Denver and it is: $100 per cap sheet roll 100sqf $120 per base sheet 200 sqf so $160 per 100 sqf not including edge metals, nails, asphalt primer. Its clean and goes down fast. It depends on what you are roofing. I focus more on labor costs than material costs. Shingles here are $105 per square not including underlayments, starter, ridge, edge metals, nails, vents, vent flashings, step flashing, headwall, counter flashings, and ventilation. I have found that adding $50 per square to the shingle price will generally catch most everything else. That makes $155-$160 materials but shingles are far more labor intensive and do take more talent to install than rolled products.
I would still pu felt down. Not sticking anything straight doen on that big of an area. Strom guard straight to wood in a valley is on thing but that's to big an area.
The peel and stick base IS the “felt”. The base sheet is very malleable and nice to work with. I’m using Polyglass which sometimes goes under different names as suppliers sell it as their house brand
granulated peal and stick modify brand mule is what a roofer is advertising to me for my 1800 sqare foot roof, so from these comments, is this something not worth investing on my flat roof in Chicago seasonal weathers.
@@thebrickandstoneguy thank you for responding I have nobody to talk to make me feel safe for this product as an option on my building, I'm doing a complete tear off on a over 100 year old flat roof building that I found out has 7 layers that I bought about 3yrs ago
Please answer this... I’m in Florida. Roughly 280sq ft patio/porch. I’ve contacted numerous big companies in my area, and just about all gave me the runaround. Is this just not worth their time? The two that actually showed up and gave me an estimate, one was $1800 to put a layer on top of old, or $3800 to pull and replace. Another said $2400. But the majority of the companies, im thinking they just don’t think it’s worth it.
I'll let you know my opinion. You can research online what the cost per square or per square foot costs in your area for rolled roofing. That being said a square is a 10x10ft section. Square footage is different. Square footage is a 10x10 ft square is 100 square feet. I read $1.50 to $4.00 per square foot. Your shouldn't cost more than $800-$1000 in my opinion.
It's hard to find anyone to work on small porch roofs in Florida. Especially in rural areas. I will be using these products on my porch roof, which is leaking.
Epdm has virtually no puncture resistance. The gravel protects it from uv and traffic. The moment you got any hail your screwed. Its a cheap solution, modified typically can go up to 30 years or more. It all depends on what your looking for.
This is product is good. Once it gets a bit warm sun hitting on to this product it will more like a bubble gum on your hair 😂 I've worked with this before is easy to install. And it looks good as well
I switched and haven’t had any issues but I think for bigger jobs Epdm or TPO are better options. I’m torching a job today but it’s a layover of smooth torch down
