Hi David, I think that we can all now see that the park was exactly the right call for the front of the town scene. The formal flower beds are a very clever idea. The road surface is also very effective with the yellow lines and drain covers along the edges. I look forward to seeing it all for real once the lockdown is finally over. Take care and keep safe. .................John
Yes, thanks, the park is comming along nicely. Glad you liked the flower bed idea. I too look forward to meeting up again - hope it's sometime soon. Love to Maureen, stay safe both of you ... David
Traditonal methods before manufacturers started inventing expensive ways to do things. Excellent work and results David. Well done. Stay safe. Cheers, Bob
Thanks Bob - like the comment very much. Glad my efforts are appreciated. I consider myself a model maker, therefore I like to make stuff. 👍👍 Stay safe yourself ... David
Good day, first time on your channel and I am in awe, very brilliant use of common items to create such lifelike scale scenes. Beautifully done and very interesting and entertaining to watch. Thank you so much for the wonderful channel to watch as well as for the inspiration you give. Take good care and be well.
Hi Norman, welcome to my channel and thanks for taking the time to comment. I am so pleased you like my approach - glad you are enjoying it 👍👍😊 . ... David
David, beautiful job. Now how about a video showing your weathering techniques for wagons and other rolling stock. I was watching your videos on operations and your wagons look really dirty in a good way. Glad to see you back making some railroad related videos.
I feel rather foolish. Having been subscribed to your channel for a few years I'd thought you were inactive. I just hadnt clicked the bell icon to receive notifications of your video uploads. Error corrected and now catching up. Lovely attention to detail as always mate. Great stuff.
Nice update David. I haven't yet tried it, but apparently if you tease out the scourers a bit they make passable low hedges. If and when your R/C glue runs out I can heartily recommend Roket card glue. Cheers
I was absolutely glued to my laptop watching this. Having seen previous updates on the diorama I could not wait to see more. Brilliant work and use of every day household item. Thank you for sharing these secrets. Regards, Geoff.
Another fantastic video David full of great idea's from every day items turned into very effective modeling media. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us all.
I love the feel the town gives off as it is even tho there is heaps left to do. The buildings are looking very good. Loved the tutorial on how you made the park walls. Really like how they turned out and with the flower beds, the whole areas looks amazing. Lovely work and keep well, Clint
Simply marvellous. That war memorial gave me goosebumps, especially when you put the wreath on it. Looking forward to the next part with great interest.
David, as a RU-vidr myself, I know that the ad revenue you might expect from any video will barely even make a dent in the cost of materials. Therefore I sincerely thank you for your kind generosity in sharing your skills and knowledge so freely and openly, and investing so much time in doing so. The scouring pad idea is genius. All the best to you, Andrew.
Hi Andrew, many thanks for your very kind words. I am happy to share and I am a compulsive model maker RU-vid give me the opportunity share with others who are interested. 👍👍👍 Regards ... David
Hola buenas noches David! As ever, I watched and absorbed so much. Your skills and clear explanations of method are so educational. Tips and ideas which your presentations provide are so vital for understanding this hobby and its apparent mysteries. Since returning to my modelling last June, following a gap of some 30 years or so, I am genuinely very grateful to fellow modellers like you, for their willingness to share their talents - thank you. I look forward to your future updates. Un Salud. Gary
I especially like the ideas for flower beds and the wreath. Our town War Memorial was cleaned recently so is now a very pale Portland(?) stone, sort of like the central London Cenotaph, in tone. Very smart. But I think it may only be in recent years, since the WWI commemorations that so many Memorials have been restored? Good to see Deresley again…
I really like that weathering technic, I have a 3D printed statue of Isambard Kingdom Brunell that I want to paint. I have used Oil Paint before and everything ended up black and did I get it in the neck for it. Now I know have to do it better and I just have to wait for the Oil paint to dry. Many thanks, David. The 2mm card here is not as good as the one you are using. It tens to break up the fibres when cutting. Martin. (Thailand. Roses Grow On You.
Hi Martin, glad you liked the weathering. No, sorry if I confused you, you don,t want the oil paint to dry at this stage - paint it on then rub it back - just as I did in the video. The act of rubbing off the paint produces the weathered look. It is however still glossy, thanks to the gloss varnish. It needs a coat of matt varnish to finish. This is when you want it to dry - I will then spray on a matt acrylic coat normal oils take a longer time to dry than the alkyds. I will make this clear when I finish the memorial in the next video. Shame about your grey card supply. Its hard to suggest an alternative - unless you can re-use boxes??? Stay safe ... David
Hi David, I thoroughly enjoyed the video. The town is looking extremely convincing and modelled to a very high standard, thanks for sharing. Regards, John.
A great video david,deresley is looking like a classic english town that we used to see through the windows of passing train my compliments on another great bit of modeling.
David - I loved the masterclass and what a difference the weathering has made to the memorial - stunning !! I also like the rose bushes from pan cleaners and paint which I think even I could do HaHa ………..Keep well Cheers Kev
Hi bro, interesting detail work, it will make the whole of Deresley more interesting (if that's possible) it's a shame that your followers are unable to see the layout it is just amazing a work of art.
Excellent stuff David. Card, covered in brick paper is probably one of the oldest techniques known to modellers but, in this case, it looks fantastic. Mixing your materials by adding plastic bits has really worked to great effect. When you were painting the red "roses", I was thinking it looked a bit like a poppy field. Funny then to see it used as poppies for the wreath. A lot of modellers seem to be a bit wary of oil paints but, if you're patient, they can give some superb results - well worth waiting for it to dry. Are any of us in *that* much of a hurry? Looking forward to seeing the war memorial "in situ" next time; the transfers look perfect, clever idea.👍 The bus in the final shot looks like a fine model in it's own right but, in that setting, it looks brilliant. Deresley is turning into a bit of a masterpiece, with *so many* different skills and techniques on view.👌🏆 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Hi Dougie, forgive me but I thought I answered this comment. It has come on on my 'unanswered list' - my apologies. Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. I do like card modelling, especially for buildings in this scale and I have done plenty of scratch-building with plasticard - so modelling with card and plastic combined seemed an obvious step to take (best of both worlds). I get great enjoyment from arranging my work for photography - it is worth the effort I think, for me, and viewers to my channel. 👍👍👍 ... David
David - I stumbled across your website when I was looking for advice on building a 00 turntable. I watched a video of your build based on the Peco one (v clever), then another one where you removed the TT and substituted a long siding. So v cheekily I wondered if I could buy your modified TT? Of course, I understand if you are keeping it for a new location! BTW, all your videos are inspirational, I am particularly impressed by your painting skills applied to the backscenes ... Kind regards. Roger.
Hi Roger, sorry for the delay in reply. My apologies too as I have disposed of the bits. I gave the motor to a friend for use on his layout and the rest was consigned to the spares box. Hope you have managed to get the bits you need.
Thank you David, not just a tutorial - a masterclass! I was particularly interested in the decals you produced for the memorial. I am not highly computer-savvy but I wonder if you could describe the program and the process which resulted in such fine transfers? Looking forward to your next episode. Cheers.
Thanks Roy - sure STEP 1. You will need some A4 Decal/Transfer paper (inkjet or laser depending on your printer). Satin or gloss will give the best definition (marginal though) and some imaging software that handles text (I use Photoshop but you can use Paint (comes free with Microsoft Windows). STEP 2. Produce your decal - In this instance I just typed in the Memorial list (yes they are actual names - you can't read them with the naked eye buy it makes a list of names look more authentic). Then you need to measure/size the area needed and then re-size your decal to fit. (I do a test print on plain paper and measure to check - adjust size if necessary). When you are happy make up several copies to print (you have spares then if things go wrong). Set your printer to photo satin or photo glossy paper and make sure its on 'high quality' - then print onto your decal paper. Now leave to dry - don't be in a hurry - I leave mine for 24 hours. STEP 3. Seal the Decals. Cut out the block of decals (saves paper) and spray with gloss Auto Lacquer (Halfords). If the printing is not fully dry it can 'run at this stage' (believe me!!). It is quick drying but I leave a couple of hours after each coat, and apply 3 coats. If the ink is dry there should be no problem - the result is a clear, dry, glossy finish. Leave a couple of hours before use - I prefer to leave over-night. When everything is fully dry I finish with a coat of matt varnish. STEP 4. The surface of your model should be dry and glossy. (as in the video). Apply your decal(s) - leave to dry. Once fully dry apply a final coat of gloss varnish - this will seal the decal and protect if for the weathering stage. If you are not going to 'weather' give the model a coat of matt, semi-gloss or gloss vanish. STEP 5 - pour yourself a beer ... Cheers! ... David
@@davidhyde4329 David, this so comprehensive - I can't thank you enough for taking the time to provide such detail. Proof indeed, if it were needed, of why you are so good at what you do! Much appreciated, Roy.
Excellent video David, the war memorial looks fantastic. Could you give some insight as to how you made the decals for the war memorial please? Stay safe Michael
Hi Micheal , many thanks for your kind comments. There are plenty of YT videos on the subject - this is how I made mine. First you will need a 'special' decal paper for printing - choose to match your printer (Lazer or inkjet). There are two types - a clear backing (I used for the War Memorial) or a white backing - if you need any white or light colours in the design. You will also need some software to produce the text and be able to reduce it to scale. I use Photoshop, but there are plenty of others (including 'Paint' - free with microsoft). Create your list of names - I used real names - made the list look more convincing. Measure your plaque and reduce the design to fit. Do a quick test print on ordinary paper. When you are happy make a small group of each decal (it pays to have spares). Print your design onto the decal paper. LET IT DRY - don't be in a hurry, make sure its dry - I leave it overnight. NEXT day you need to seal the printing by spraying 2 or 3 coats of Acrylic gloss lacquer, Again allow 2 or 3 hours between coats TO LET IT DRY. Again I leave everything until the next day. Then trim you decals to size and apply them, to a gloss surface, in the normal way. I would then, after they have dried, seal them onto the surface with a brushed coat of gloss acrylic varnish. After this they are safe enough to apply any weathering you wish to do. Then finish the whole model in a matt varnish. Sounds simple but a bit long-winded. I have learn't, by bitter experience, not to hurry this process. Hope this helps - good luck👍👍👍 ... David
amazing david the whole layout looks stunning i wish i had space for such a diorama i have trains buildings and everything id need just lacking the space keep up the good work regards jay
These videos are a joy to watch and gives plenty of useful ideas. Do you think those Windsor and Newton paints would be suitable for painting the hull of a wooden RC boat for use on a pond - have you any experience in this area of modelling?
Many thanks Malcolm - much appreciated 👍👍👍. I cant see why artists acrylic paints should not work, but I am not sure I would recommend it - particularly if you are thinking of using the paint to seal/prime the hull. Artists paint in tubes can be expensive and not all colours are opaque. If the hull is watertight and you are just going to decorate it then it should work. I have some experience with wooden hulled boats, but that was many years ago. I cant remember how painted the hull. If I were doing it now I would find out what is 'common practice' and follow this. Bound to be some help available on YT - good luck with it ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Many thanks David for your valuable advice. I hope you did not mind me asking this question on a different subject but you show great skill with what you do and I especially like the videos about the model car restorations. Quite a lot of modellers do different types of modelling although I reckon Model Railways is probably the most popular - I love it all! Cheers
I am sorry to say I can't remember. I bought it some time ago either from ebay or from a model railway exhibition. I liked it because it looked the proper scale thickness of railings, each tipped with a spike. Can only suggest you search 'park railings' or just 'railings' in ebay and see what comes up (you will also need to search as oo gauge or you will be swamped with options). Good luck ... David
The advantage of adding weathering with oil paint is (1) it takes longer to dry so you can work on bigger areas in one go and (2) when painted over acrylic - when the acrylic is dry - you can paint on the weathering with oils and you can wipe it and reduce it, or completely remove it with white spirit without affecting the acrylic colours in any way. You can't paint acrylic over oil by the way. 😊👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Does that mean that trying to wipe freshly applied acrylic off older dry acrylic would tend to pull off some of the older dry paint? Is this a substantial problem or just not as good as using oils?
@@beachdancer Hi. yes - you can apply acrylic and wipe off in the same way before it dries, but it dries massively faster than oils. Therefore you often don't get the time needed to work in subtlety before it dries. So you either have to work very quickly, or just work on q small area at a time. There is always a tendency for earlier layers to be pulled off (see below). But here acrylics have the advantage. Layers will stick to each other permanently - no problem (unless you use too much water in thinning the paint). Acrylics (properly thinned). Oils are not permanent - the earlier coats can be softened and effected by overpainting oils with oils. There is a saying 'oil and water don't mix' which is correct. BUT you Can paint oils onto dried acrylic paint. You Can paint acrylic onto dried oil (art restorers do this). BUT oils can take up to 2 years to fully dry - so this way round is impracticable. For us modellers there is a problem with the slow drying of oil paint because most oil paint contains a slow drying medium (Linseed Oil). However there is an oil paint that replaces the Linseed Oil with a man made Alkyd resin. (NOT the same as Acrylic resin so you can't mix them). Alkyd paints are great for weathering because they can be thinned with cheap white spirit. Check out 'Winsor & Newton Griffin' oils (If you are thinking of going this way) They are much cheaper than conventional oils - and you only need a few. The problem with all paints being lifted is more connected to the bond made between the first coat (any paint) and the surface of the object to be painted. I have been looking for a subject for my Christmas video and your question has given me the answer. I will produce a fuller video covering this with my experience as an artist and model maker. Hope this helps 👍👍👍😊
¡Hola buenas noches David! As ever, I watched and absorbed so much. Your skills and clear explanations of method are so educational. Tips and ideas which your presentations provide are so vital for understanding this hobby and it’s apparent mysteries. Since returning to my modelling last June, following a gap of some 30 years or so, I am genuinely very grateful to fellow modellers like you, for their willingness to share their talents - thank you. I look forward to your future updates. Un Salud. Gary
