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Designing Bespoke Shoes with Your Shoemaker 

Gentleman's Gazette
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The second installment of our Bespoke Shoe series covers the conversation that will shape the finished shoes: gentl.mn/bespeaking-design-be...
#bespeaking #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Navy & Yellow Shadow Stripe Socks: gentl.mn/striped-socks-navy-y...
SEE THE FULL BESPOKE SHOE SERIES PLAYLIST HERE:
→ • Bespoke Shoes, Start t...
gUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Top 10 Men's Style Books: gentl.mn/top10-men-style-books-1
→ Measuring Feet For Bespoke Shoes: gentl.mn/bespokeshoe-measuring
→ How A Dress Shoe Should Fit: gentl.mn/dress-shoe-fitting
→ Allen Edmonds - Has Quality Decreased?: gentl.mn/allen-edmonds-shoes-...
→ Vegan Leather Guide: gentl.mn/vegan-leather-1
→ Crocodile & Alligator Leather - Why Expensive?: gentl.mn/crocodile-alligator-...
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Sven Raphael Schneider
→ Camera: Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Kopitinphoto
→ Van Del Breekel
→ Parisian Gentleman
→ Cater's News Agency
→ Shoegazing.com
→ Carmina
→ Wayman Bespoke
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ gentl.mn/youtube
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00:00 Bespeaking Your Design Introduction
“Bespeaking” basically means discussing the shoe that you finally end up with. You’ll be able to follow the entire process along the way. We’ll provide food for thought, and we talk about things like the last, the broguing, the leather, and all the details such as the heel pitch that goes into a custom pair of shoes.
00:56 Why is Bespeaking Important?
Basically, it’s the opportunity for you to dream out loud about your perfect shoe. Since you’re building a pair of shoes from the ground up, the sky’s the limit.
02:00 Bespeaking: It Pays To Do Your Research
While shoemakers will be perfectly fine with starting the bespeaking process in person, we believe the real bespeaking process starts long before the first conversation. Why? Well, think about it this way: the more research you do beforehand, the more things you can point out that you like and dislike, the easier, more fluid, and quicker the entire speaking process will be.
05:52 Tell Your Shoemaker About Your Vision
Most shoemakers want an idea of what they want to talk about, so they don’t forget about anything.
11:32 Listen and Let Your Shoemaker Guide You
I learned quite a bit in those conversations, so be all ears, listen to your shoemaker, and let them guide you. They know what they’re doing. Heels are another important topic in bespoke shoemaking, and they actually take quite a bit of time if you build them up by hand.
13:09 Negotiate On Your Special Requests
You also want to mention any special requests. For example, someone may not like any metal in their shoes, so instead of a metal shank, you have to use a wooden shank; instead of metal nails, you have to use wooden pegs.
15:30 Have An Open Conversation
Most shoemakers will also have a base way to do things if it’s not specified by the customer. If there’s a contradiction between something that you want or something that you read and a shoemaker and their ability, just discuss it, and bring it up.
21:34 Know Your Options
What did we ultimately decide on? You have to stay tuned for the final product reveal. Once you’ve talked about all the individual details, it’s time to look at them in conjunction and bring it all together.
26:37 End Your Meeting Well
Eventually, once you’ve discussed all the details or you’re simply exhausted, your first bespeaking meeting will come to an end. At this point, your shoemaker will have a very good idea of what it is that you want, they will be able to start on the last, and order the leather.

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5 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 67   
@MysticDonBlair
@MysticDonBlair 2 года назад
Please do more on BESPOKE everything! 🙏 I really want to evolve into an entirely hand made life… as much as possible anyway. ☺️
@MysticDonBlair
@MysticDonBlair 2 года назад
Seriously… I mean BESPOKE everything- clothes, jewelry, shoes, luggage, steamer chest, architecture, furniture, custom rugs, commissioned art, interior design, home bars, wine cellars, charcuterie caves, wine, food, spirits, stationery, humidors, tobacco, tea, firearms, knives, automobiles, sea vessels, aircraft, etc… *But please do it in your style*. I love how you go over what you are wearing to suit every situation. For example: dress for each occasion -A video for discussing how to build a custom cigar lounge; wear a smoking jacket and explain the proper attire. -A video on visiting a custom built sailing yacht and how to get one built; wear boating shoes and proper clothes. -A video on a custom skeet shooting range, and discuss custom made firearms; wear a shooting jacket and explain its significance.
@thefultzman1
@thefultzman1 2 года назад
@@MysticDonBlair my Ministry is working towards making handmade jewelry of various qualities of course we'll have to start out with the lower end stuff but eventually we're wanting to work into silver gold and possibly even platinum.
@19Photographer76
@19Photographer76 Год назад
@@MysticDonBlair Well, it does mean anything commissioned to a particular specification. It's just not a term we use in North America.
@mattshaffer5935
@mattshaffer5935 2 года назад
You’re clearly working with a professional. Really enjoying this!
@ronsorage78
@ronsorage78 2 года назад
She seems like a talented, charming, and lovely person.
@marioe6696
@marioe6696 2 года назад
I really enjoy these series. Please, keep them coming!
@MysticDonBlair
@MysticDonBlair 2 года назад
*GENTLEMAN’S GAZETTE* 👉 Please do more videos on BESPOKE everything- clothes, jewelry, shoes, luggage, steamer chest, architecture, furniture, custom rugs, commissioned art, interior design, home bars, wine cellars, charcuterie caves, wine, food, spirits, stationery, humidors, tobacco, tea, firearms, knives, automobiles, sea vessels, aircraft, private staff, etc… But please do it in your style. I love how you go over what you are wearing to suit every situation. For example, dress for each occasion: -A video for discussing how to build a custom cigar lounge; wear a smoking jacket and explain the proper attire. -A video on visiting a custom built sailing yacht and how to get one built; wear boating shoes and proper clothes. -A video on a custom skeet shooting range, and discuss custom made firearms; wear a shooting jacket and explain its significance.
@frankmartinez4856
@frankmartinez4856 2 года назад
Nothing like handmade shoes! Got the shoe bug! Collin Johnson is my go to guy!! Your girl is beautiful & knowledgeable about shoes!!
@attjy6458
@attjy6458 2 года назад
Could you maybe do a video on containing and preventing bug infestations for men with large wardrobes? I learnt the hard way that buying vintage doesn't come without its drawbacks!
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
Putting vintage items in the freezer before you add them to your wardrobe is the key.
@mattshaffer5935
@mattshaffer5935 2 года назад
Oh man. I had some of my Dad’s and older Brother’s items (Filson.) get damaged by moths. Not irrecoverable but disappointing none the less. I was living in essentially a giant garage at the time so not surprised. Freezing or fresh air and a hot day in direct sunlight should do the job.
@attjy6458
@attjy6458 2 года назад
@@mattshaffer5935 Yeah, I had bedbugs in some clothing i bought vintage, and at the time I must have had 20, 25 non-machine-washable garments in my wardrobe. Trust me, bedbugs are no fun.
@robertdouglas9345
@robertdouglas9345 2 года назад
As always, solid content! Keep up the good work & God Bless!
@toonsoffun5733
@toonsoffun5733 2 года назад
Black cap toe oxfords would definitely be my first bespoke shoe if I ever commissioned one.
@ZoomZoom-ng6sn
@ZoomZoom-ng6sn 2 года назад
This video must take a lot of work to make. Kudos.
@tmorente
@tmorente 2 года назад
I just received my order of some boutonnieres and pocket squares. I'm very impressed with the quality put in to the packaging. I like that they came in green boarded boxes with the Fort Belvedere insignia. The colors are so rich on the pocket squares and I love the patterns and illustrations on them. The flowers look very real! I'm definitely going to buy some ties next from your website. I wish I knew about this website before I bought a pack of amazon pocket squares. They're really small and hard to fold, and comparing them side by side really opened my eyes as the difference between the two companies products were night and day. The stuff I bought on amazon was really cheap looking, and the material had this weird sheen to it. Like it came from a superheroes costume. I'm probably going to trash those. The product did come a bit later then I thought it would but it was nice to get an email saying that I wasn't forgotten and that it'd be on the way. That's showing some consideration and I appreciate that, especially from shopping with a company that I've never shopped from before.
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
Thank you for your support!
@Meemorp_
@Meemorp_ 2 года назад
Is there a term for the arrow shaped toe cap? I love the design and would like to look into other shoes with a similar look.
@paulmcgee1867
@paulmcgee1867 Год назад
Love this series. Great choice.
@josephrivera8977
@josephrivera8977 2 года назад
Excellent video. It will be a while before I can afford bespoke shoes, but that just gives me more time to do research.
@kennethjohnson6141
@kennethjohnson6141 2 года назад
Excellent video Sven 🙏🙏
@michaelbell3952
@michaelbell3952 2 года назад
Us ther a german version of the word bespoke? This is the first time I've seen that word in that tense.
@iansoutryer3189
@iansoutryer3189 2 года назад
"Bespoke shoes" - it's "Maßschuhe" or "maßgefertigte Schuhe".
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
Maßschuh
@davidhensley76
@davidhensley76 2 года назад
I wonder if lasts can be 3d printed.
@kimtoannhan7275
@kimtoannhan7275 2 года назад
Of course! Sometimes the shoe makers even cast the customer's foots to make the lasts.
@habituscraeftig
@habituscraeftig Год назад
For core lasts like they're showing here, that may be an interesting option. Full lasts though get directly nailed into and the seams are hammered to activate the glues, so not even all kinds of wood work well. You want something that's going to take nails well and maybe be reusable. Nichole Rudolph does historical shoemaking, which is basically bespoke by default, and you can see the abuse those lasts take. They do more than just provide the shape.
@ronaround2897
@ronaround2897 2 года назад
A rich man's game. I still love the videos.
@MisterRorschach90
@MisterRorschach90 2 года назад
If I were the kind of wealthy that meant I could buy anything I want and never possibly run out of money, like a lot of the people who actually wear bespoke clothing and shoes, I wouldn’t ever be able to make decisions. I literally want everything. I’d want a pair of oxfords, derby’s, Chelsea boots, hiking boots, dress boots, sneakers, loafers, boat shoes, chukka, desert, cowboy, rain, and every other boot in between in every single leather and exotic leather, in every single color, with and without broguing, spectator versions with canvas or tweed, or even in multi leather mixing stuff like alligator and cordovan or stingray and ostrich. And even then I’d want to have a compartment next to my shoe and boot collection filled with cloth and leather shoe strings in every single color and texture possible. I wouldn’t be able to make up my mind. And it’s the same for clothing. I’d want a suit in every single fabric consisting of every pattern I like. Like 5-6 piece suits consisting of both pleated and flat front trousers, single and double breasted, peak and notch lapel, and shawl if it’s fit for formal wear like darker colors or monochromatic plaids. My closet would end up being like that rich middle eastern dude with the biggest clothing collection in history. He had so many expensive bespoke clothing items that he never wore them all, and the ones he did only once. This is the only reason I’m glad I’m not uber wealthy. I would never be able to decide. And beyond clothing it would also be furniture, houses, vehicles, watches, fountain pens and special paper for them. I think the only thing that wouldn’t get me is Jewlrey. Because that’s the one thing that I know exactly what I like. Plain.
@derpoblizist9076
@derpoblizist9076 2 года назад
Trueeeee I‘d be like: „i take your entire stock“
@samyguerroury8980
@samyguerroury8980 2 года назад
Hello from switzerland. Very Interesting video.
@LightemupWMH
@LightemupWMH 2 года назад
Did he ever talk about the cost of her shoes? I didn't hear it in the last video or this one. Did I miss it?
@glennet9613
@glennet9613 2 года назад
I googled it $900 to $2,000.
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
Cost changes over time. As a shoemaker, you get better and charge more over time. Also with inflation, I. Sure the costs more now than before. Without shoe trees it would cost at least $2000 for normal calf leather. But if you want a super high stitch density or something that takes more time, she will charge more. We will discuss this in a video
@Fogmaster1990
@Fogmaster1990 2 года назад
Cheers!🥂
@TrailWalker03
@TrailWalker03 2 года назад
Hong Kong viewers: check out Mayer Shoes in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. I've used them for years.
@jordanturner509
@jordanturner509 2 года назад
Is black and oxblood oxfords too bold with a grey suit? red toe cap, quarter and laces
@19Photographer76
@19Photographer76 Год назад
Foot/toe deformeties need to be considered when selecting a shoe style for sure. A 'bent' toe is a 'hammer' toe and not just a longer toe. A longer second toe is called a 'Morton's toe' or Royal toe.
@yay-cat
@yay-cat 2 года назад
Ok tell me more about your parquet floor at home! stunning! Also I assume your shoemaker also makes shoes for women?
@iainsanders4775
@iainsanders4775 Год назад
Seeing those side expansion panel vents at the back of his jacket - is a bit like seeing the guts of the Beaubourg, inter alia. Gauche - but Yanks like their engineering!
@Shadows_Inc
@Shadows_Inc 2 года назад
I love brown wingtip Oxfords, more than any other shoe, but it's hard to find ones that fit, because I have extremely wide, squared off feet. I usually have to buy it two sizes bigger than I need, which makes it even harder to find in that high of a size.
@boscokid9524
@boscokid9524 Год назад
Have you tried Allen Edmond’s?
@Shadows_Inc
@Shadows_Inc Год назад
@@boscokid9524 Not yet, I'll check it out.
@teenoso4069
@teenoso4069 2 года назад
The sky's the limit in the wrong hands it can be disastrous. As you alluded to, Russian Calf leather seems very popular at the moment. I wonder how time will see this popularity.
@devinhurt7698
@devinhurt7698 2 года назад
what's the difference between flax and linen fabric it wasn't covered in the linen video?
@attjy6458
@attjy6458 2 года назад
i know i'm not the GG, but for what it's worth i believe flax is the raw material from which linen is made (i.e. the plant it comes from).
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
To give you a comprehensive answer, take a look at our linen guide: www.gentlemansgazette.com/linen-mens-summer-fabric/?
@savariaxa
@savariaxa 2 года назад
JM Weston France shoes are one of the best have several pieces !
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
They are a RTW shoes
@savariaxa
@savariaxa 2 года назад
@@gentlemansgazette yes I know they also offer custom made shoes but the RTW shoes are the highest quality in shoe making I have a pair from John Lobb’s custom made equal with JM Weston it depends also which shoe size and foot you have I have a normal foot and size 43 !
@rickythe2nd63
@rickythe2nd63 2 года назад
Can't wait to see final product!!! Also, some leather should be absolutely forbidden. No one has any business wearing ELEPHANT skin shoes for goodness sake.
@davey2363
@davey2363 2 года назад
How curious. Surely one would want a proper last carved for ones own feet? Check out John Lobb Bespoke London. It’s rather a cheat not to have individual lasts carved for one’s feet. John Lobb Bespoke do everything correctly with no corners cut.
@johnnywilliams6555
@johnnywilliams6555 2 года назад
And now remember that we do not have enough money for this(
@kolauttaja9447
@kolauttaja9447 2 года назад
He sounds so different in camera
@thefultzman1
@thefultzman1 2 года назад
Do they come in an American size of 16eeee
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 2 года назад
That's the beauty of bespoke - they're made just for you :)
@thefultzman1
@thefultzman1 2 года назад
@@gentlemansgazette I realized that after the first 10 seconds of the video LOL. I just didn't bother to delete my comment I figured it would give somebody a good laugh. I probably do need to get my shoes custom made like this though at my size it's hard to get a good fit especially for something that lasts a while
@jrd3523
@jrd3523 2 года назад
How about shoes made with Pinatex (pineapple fibers) or Muskin (mushroom leather) or Desserto (cactus leather) more durable and breathable than leather. More importantly; you don't wear a dead animal's skin!
@michaelkores6860
@michaelkores6860 Год назад
and letting a perfectly fine product go to waste?
@jrd3523
@jrd3523 Год назад
@@michaelkores6860 Natural and better quality product without involving animal cruelty? Yes.
@michaelkores6860
@michaelkores6860 Год назад
@@jrd3523 Leather is natural and the makers of Desserto talk about a lifespan of 10 years which is in no way comparable to high quality leather, that will be there for you to enjoy for a lifetime.
@jrd3523
@jrd3523 Год назад
@@michaelkores6860 You obviously don't get it. Ciao.
@michaelkores6860
@michaelkores6860 Год назад
@@jrd3523 i did get it and not wanting to wear an animal product is fine but quality wise your statement simply wasn't true. No offense.
@jackeddemon
@jackeddemon 2 года назад
How is this bespoke if she is starting with a pre-made last? This is not true bespoke
@lezmajz4677
@lezmajz4677 2 года назад
a democrat candidate for congress has this finances collected Name Party Receipts Disbursements Cash on hand Date Val Demings Democratic Party $30,773,246 $18,317, xx $13,227,501 As of March 31, 2022 13 millions cash on hand. I wonder how a retired police officer get this amount of money or isa billionaire helping, to much promises and once in office, if I see you I don't remember you
@quarlmephystodot2201
@quarlmephystodot2201 Год назад
she is a voluptuous woman
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