We discuss everything that goes into sewing together the uppers on a bespoke shoe: gentl.mn/finishing-uppers-bes...
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00:00 Finishing the Uppers Introduction
Episode 6 of our series on bespoke shoes, where we show you how shoemaker Amara Hark Weber is making a pair of shoes from start to finish by hand, is all about sewing together the uppers.
00:30 Skiving (Thinning) the Leather
The process of thinning out the edges, so there will be no bulging later on, and everything looks smooth and neat. This process of thinning out the leather is especially important, where the leather is folded or where it’s layered.
02:46 Broguing
Amara does the broguing by hand, which allows her to be more detailed, and consistent, and with a diamond brogue, it requires individual special attention.
05:50 Readying the Pieces
Amara puts the heel counter and the quarters together, then the quarters, and then the vamps. Then, she joins them around the facings. Essentially, it’s like creating a back of the uppers, and then a front, and then you combine them at last.
06:41 Backing Strips & Piping
Typically, when you do broguing, you also have some kind of backing that will show underneath those holes that you just punched out. Sometimes, it can be leather, and other times it can be fabric. Some people even like to play with a contrasting fabric to be really loud.
09:34 Connecting the Uppers & Facings
It’s time to handle the facings. These are the portion of the uppers where you find the lace holes in. The facings are particularly under a lot of stress, because that’s where you have your thin shoelaces, and some people may really pull hard in their laces.
12:41 Working with the Lining
Before inserting the lining into the uppers, Amara made it all wet, which helps the lining adhere to the uppers to make sewing it together easier. Wetting the leather alone isn’t enough, so she actually uses some clips to hold it in place. Once everything is wet and clipped, though, it can be sewn.
14:33 Preparing the Tongue & Throat
The tongue is prepared in are very similar way as the facings. Distances are checked with a spacer, leather is punched, pads are cut out, and then skived. Amara then prepares the uppers. She draws a full line at the throat to ensure it has proper width and comfort.
15:21 Punching the Eyelets
One of the most nerve-wracking parts of the whole thing, because once it’s punched, it’s set. If it doesn’t align, back to square one. To reinforce the eyelets, you will sometimes see metal grommets. Sometimes, they’re just visible from the lining side, sometimes it is also visible from the outside, but that’s typically something you only find in more rugged, casual boots; not in a fine Oxford dress shoe.
16:10 Attaching the Tongue
Amara prepares the tongue lining. Sometimes, you can also add a little bit of foam in between the lining and the tongue upper to provide extra cushioning and comfort. Then, she glues the lining and sews it, then trims off excess pieces after it’s sewn.
17:01 Stay Stitches
There are little stitches that are meant to hold movable parts of the shoe in place over time. Amara uses three; one in the middle and one on each side. Again, every shoemaker may be a little different here. You can see her using an awl to poke the central hole.
17:40 Checking the Laces
Finally, we can add a shoelace and see if the eyelets were punched properly in the right place because if they don’t align, and the lines are not parallel or off, you’re not going to want to wear this shoe.
12 июл 2024
