We ended up exchanging this model for the slimmer version ru-vid.comUgkx0jZ_lGlDVJhDnmagEU8gn47cmfPNlLQU because it was too wide for the only door trim area that made sense to mount it on. However, we should have just noted the dimensions prior to purchasing. Otherwise, we love the doorbell. It works perfectly, and the video is very clear, even at night.
Absolutely brilliant video, most videos online are very US centric and really don't translate well. You actually explained properly why you need that circuit breaker and how to install from scratch which is what i'm about to do. Also i liked that you included the alternative enclosure for the ring transformer, TOP TIP!!
This is literally exactly what i needed to see and done how i wanted to do it staying away from the consumer unit thanks for cementing that fact it can be done like this
Many thanks Tristan for this video. It has helped me fit my doorbell pro without any major complications. By far this video is the best tutorial on RU-vid 👍
Great info thanks.. Rings info is so poor it’s a real mystery how to set these up. I just need to find out how you do it and keep the original (like yours) original chime working too,!
Hi Dave I’m in the same boat as you and would like to keep the original chime working... did you figure out how to do it? Tristan thanks for the great review it is very useful. If you know how to do this could you let me know please?
Hi on my deta box only the blue and white twisted pair are used. So blue in one terminal and white in the other!! Can each individual cable be used in the ring transformer or would I need to use the orange and white as well even though it’s currently not used? I’m confused!
Hi, do you mean that the invidual tiny wires are used? They might not carry enough voltage for the Ring Doorbell if so. You could test it out first, but if they don't carry enough voltage, you would then need to recombine the twisted pairs and use one blue/white and one orange/white (or whatever other twisted pair has been fed through to the doorbell).
This particular Deta doorbell didn't support ringing via the Ring doorbell, hence me removing it completely. I instead rely on a Ring Chime and my Amazon Echo units to ring. This does mean that we depend on WiFi for this to work, but our WiFi is quite solid here thankfully.
Hi, in the UK I know that the Byron 776 works quite well - it supports ringing the mechanical chime too, which us better than the official Ring transformer.
Hi, good question, I should have covered this point originally. Since my WiFi is good and reliable, I just rely on the plug-in Ring Chime (and my Echo devices, setup as notification devices too). It works fine for my needs 99% of the time. 🙂
I've been asked this a few times, but unfortunately I can't 100% remember sorry 😕 I believe that I used a small flathead screwdriver and pushed it backwards or down.
Hi there, I am in the process of connecting the ring video doorbell pro as in the video. I have my existing chime exactly the same model you have. Could I use the integrated transformer of the chime instead of installing the ring one? Thank you
Hello, whilst the output voltage of the existing Deta transformer appears to be sufficient for the Ring Doorbell Pro, I've spoken to neighbours who have said that they were unable to use the existing chime's integrated transformer - the Ring app kept saying it was insufficient voltage. So it seems like you can't do this, but admittedly I haven't tried it myself.
So the doorbell is up and running - thanks again, all done in less than 15 mins. Used a dremmel to cut the centre out of my Deta chime housing to fit the transformer - wife won't even notice 😜
I have search for days until i came across your video and all makes perfect sense now. Excellent step by step guide particularly on what cable types go where. You should be the tech advisor for Ring!! Well done
Thanks! Yes you're right, I literally did a direct to transformer install and didn't keep an existing bell/chime. I instead just rely on the Ring Chime. This is fine for my purposes, but it does mean that if the WiFi is down, I won't hear a doorbell chime so this approach isn't suitable for everyone.
I did also test that, but didn't show it on-screen. I definitely should have though, and made clear that this should always be done. Thanks for the reminder 👍
Hi, you can if it's compatible (see support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/209028546-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Chime-Kit-Compatibility-List ). Unfortunately the Deta one is not compatible.
My bell is operated directly by 230v. There are two slots for L & N. I also have two wires coming straight from the bell button. Where do i connect them ? (since there is no transformer). Thanks for the nice video !
I might be misunderstanding, but you won't be able to hook your Ring doorbell straight up to a 230v supply, it would fry it. You would need to install a suitable transformer first, then follow the wiring diagram I show in the video.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks for the quick answer. This is the only video ive managed to find with the excactly same bell i got : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-08iw1ZYpOkE.html I dont understand the connection though and the video is in polish😞Did you get something ? Thanks for helping by the way, its important to me.
I'm sorry, I'm not sure either for that connection type 😔 You mainly need to verify that the right voltage is supplied to your Ring doorbell (I e. 16-24 VAC 50/60HZ, 10-40VA max). Worst case you might need to call out an electrian, who will probably know the solution immediately.
Nope, you're right. You could do this - assuming there's enough room for it. From memory, these should be enough room but you might need to hack the casing a tiny bit.
Followed your video which went into fantastic detail. Doorbell now installed and working perfectly! You are providing a great service good man. Thanks a million!!
Just got a simplisafe doorbell (recently launched in the UK) and I'm facing the same issue where simply switching up the Deta doorbell with the new one doesn't work. Have you or anyone got any recommendations on a non-ring transformer?
@@SmartHomePoint cheers for replying! I decided to order a British 8-24V transformer/plastic casing set from Amazon. Description said it is compatable with various video doorbells. Don't think I have any alternative to the Ring Power Kit thing though but can't see anywhere that Simplisafe doorbells require one. Shame that Simplisafe support basically tell to use some other non-specified transformer or contact a professional. Whereas Ring seem to include all the bits needed with the doorbell itself so DIYers can replace the Deta ones themselves. At least the SimpliSafe Base Station can ring without a chime so won't have to worry about getting that one too.
Do you know what size torx screw this uses? I bought a screwdriver and screw online and the screw does fit the whole, but is far too short to reach the thread behind. Having real problems trying to find out what size I need
Good question. Uhm, it's a T6 Torx screwhead but I'm not sure of the best length to buy sorry. From memory, it was a quite short screw for my Ring Doorbell Pro - it certainly wasn't long.
Amazing video. Do you reckon I can make the same wiring possible for another video door bell which is non-Ring (like the Eufy door bell dual wired, that I got from the US? Thanks
Thanks, glad it helped 🙂 It's hard to say with other devices, especially US ones because they might expect a different voltage input. The wiring itself should be fine for any smart doorbell, but you'd have to double check the voltage and amps to ensure that's all consistent.
Thanks for the video, very informative. Do you think this same process would work for the eufy doorbell? Eufy recommended a transformer but it is supposed to go in the consumer box. I prefer your setup, tidier and easier. Plus I don't want to touch the consumer unit.
Where does your chime come from now you removed the whole unit? I don't have a bell switch in my consumer unit so this is the only way I see of wiring it up as I dont want any wires exposed. Bit annoyed that I didnt realise before ordering.
Yes this approach should work well for you. There's also the Ring Pro plug-in power adapter, but this may depend on how easily you can run and hide the power adapter cable. In terms of your question - the chime is literally via the plug-in Ring Chime device (also supplied in the Ring Pro box). One downside is that this is WiFi based, meaning that if the WiFi is down, I won't get a doorbell chime. On the plus side, I can hear people knock just fine and my WiFi is super reliable, so I'm not too concerned about only having WiFi-dependent chimes.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks for your reply. I'll be doing it your way. I dont have a spare plug near enough the doorbell and dont want any cables exposed. Ah didn't realise it comes with the seperate chime, I just checked and it will. I can also connect the doorbell to to the amazon Alexa, just realised. Also, not that I need a chime with two dogs in the house. I've ordered the circuit breaker enclosure now. Thanks
Yes good question, I missed this on the original video. I didn't use a mechanical chime in the end. I instead use my Ring Chime and Echo devices. Yes they're WiFi based, so they won't work if my internet goes out, but I can nearly always hear people knocking my front door so it's no biggie.
hi there, if I was to do what you did, does that mean the time will work inside my property for the doorbell as we like it?? Also, do you know exactly what the old doorbell make a model is as mine has broken and I need a replacement if I don’t get a ring doorbell. Thanks in advance
Hi thanks for the video I just found it , it is very useful, my only question from where actually the sound of the bell will come if you have removed the old system? it will come from the ring transformer? I bought a ring doorbell wired basic one not pro thanks
Glad you found it useful 🙂 The sound can come from a plug-in Ring Chime, or Amazon Echo's too. I get 10 doorbell sounds round my home when someone is at my door 😅
Thank you so much for posting this. It has given me the confidence to give this a go with the Ring Pro 2 I purchased on Black Friday. I think the transformer should still fit in the ESE2, but I will take it with me to Screwfix and immediately return if not! Ring do sell a neat little ‘Enclosure for DIN Rail Transformer’ if not but would rather not drop £16 + postage on this if at all possible!
@@SmartHomePoint I did a dummy run today and can confirm that a) the Ring Pro 2 transformer fits into the ESE2 Din Enclosure beautifully and b) the Pro 2 fired into life when temporarily connected to test that my pre-existing wiring was not broken and that the transformer was installed corrected. Both my wiring and the transformer appear to work flawlessly having followed your very helpful video. When my Wedge Kit arrives this week I plan to install it permanently and leave a comment confirming that this method 100% works for the Pro 2 (which I’m currently 99% sure is the case). Put it this way, I doubt the doorbell would fire up and start talking to me if I am likely to encounter any issues. Thanks again!
@@SmartHomePoint As promised, I can confirm that this method does work perfectly with the Ring Pro 2. I did need to buy a Chime Pro to get a strong Wi-Fi signal outside but that has nothing to do with this method. The only thing I have been disappointed with so far is the lack of VPN support for Live View. Having to turn my VPN off to use the Live View is not exactly ideal. I am going to see if there is a way of excluding Ring from my VPN but this does seem a bit of a misstep to me from Ring. The same people who care about home security are also, I would suspect, more likely to care about their online security too.
That's great, thanks for confirming it works fine for you. And good point about the VPN - it's frustrating that Ring have made no effort to support VPNs 😕
Do you need a transformer. If I understand correctly the DETA input is 230v and output is 14.5v ac. the Ring 3 supports that out of the box. Ring supports 8-24 volt amps V ac.
The Doorbell Pro requires at least 16v AC as far as I know ( support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115000115323-Troubleshooting-Insufficient-Power-Issues-with-your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro ). As far as the non-Pro models go, I agree that they allow down to an 8c AC supply as you say. However the Deta doorbell units are all listed as incompatible ( support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/210644123-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Chime-Kit-Compatibility-List ) due to the chime component. So my hunch is that the non-Pro models would still need a transformer change (unless a way is found to just use the transformer part of them).
Brilliant video. I done some research online and the Ring website says you need to use a resistor and that’s the bit that’s confusing me. Do I need one of these? So essentially all I’m doing is feeding the transformer with 240v (1.5 twin and earth?) and then using cat5 cable from the transformer into the door bell? After looking online it looks a lot more confusing than this...
Thanks 👍 The resistor can be confusing. My understanding is that it's only needed for the other models (i.e. the non Pro ones) when hardwiring them, to replace the load that would be the chime. The Pro is designed for use with or without a chime (controllable via the settings) so doesn't need the resistor. Yes, a 1.5mm twin and earth in and then a sufficiently thick cable out (i.e. cat5e is fine, whereas a single strand telephone wire wouldn't be) should work well. It gets more complicated when the existing doorbell chime unit is added into the mix, but my Deta doorbell chime unit wasn't compatible and I was happy with the Ring WiFi chime so I went with this simple (but workable) approach.
The chime unit is the digital or mechanical wall-mounted unit of a (non smart) doorbell, which makes the noise when someone presses the doorbell. If you already have a hardwired doorbell, you'll almost certainly have a chime unit. But if it's a new install, you won't have one (and then can just follow the steps in this video exactly). This is all very different to the Ring Chime though, which is just a plug-in unit that uses WiFi.
Smart Home Point I don’t have an existing door bell. Sorry if you covered it in the video, so where does the “chime” noise come from with the Ring door bell?
No problem, it's not an area I explicitly covered in the video unfortunately. So without an existing doorbell, you need a plug-in Ring Chime to get any doorbell sound. This usually comes with the Ring Doorbell Pro. This approach works for me really well, but since it's WiFi based, there won't be any doorbell sound if your WiFi is off. As a result, some people install a compatible 'old style' doorbell chime unit - e.g. the Byron 776 is often used as it's compatible with the Doorbell Pro. This will then involve more complicated wiring (not covered in my video), and is probably the sort of thing you've been coming across in your internet research.
Excellent video , thank you for sharing, big help, I am wondering is it possible to take a single socket extension form the input power to power ring chime ?
Fantastic video, I have the same Deta Doorbell. Can I ask would this method be suitable for a Ring Doorbell 2. I do not wants the wireless method due to the constant charging and my doorbell itself is just like yours with the same wiring. I have no electrical experience but handy overall, I would like to do the same but my pack does not come the the ring bypass. Overall I guess I’m asking if I copy your method would this be safe and appropriate for my version of Ring. Thanks
Thanks! This method won't be directly the same as the Ring Doorbell 2 because the Pro runs at a slightly higher voltage and hence comes with a transformer. The Doorbell 2 can just be hooked up directly to the existing doorbell's wires, as long as 8-24V AC is supplied (support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115003011986-Ring-Video-Doorbell-2-Hardwired-vs-Battery-Powered-Operation). Alternatively if you don't have an existing doorbell, you'll need a resistor on the output leg (this is key): support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115003495766-How-to-Connect-Your-Ring-Video-Doorbell-2-Directly-to-a-Low-Voltage-Transformer-Without-a-Pre-existing-Doorbell- In short, it will unfortunately be a slightly different process for you.
Informative video, in my case, i haven't got any wired bell so i am thinking to power the bell from lighting ceiling rose. Do you think its good idea to put a switch before the transformer so in case we need to isolate the bell then we can without disturbing or breaking lighting circuit.
If you own an existing intercom in a flat is the process the same, I have a phone type buzzer, you pickup & speak,so ideally id like to keep that & use the outside for Extra wires to feed to the ring camera if you follow, I've ordered a 6m adapter just incase, think I'll need extending though as I need 9 metres 🤷🏻♀️ thanks in advance 👍
I'm not 100% sure sorry, but my hunch is that as long as there is sufficient power/voltage for both (to support both the Ring Doorbell and the phone buzzer), it should work fine. It's basically a case of power both devices, from the single input cable.
I just got the wired version and now I cant connect it because i got Delta doorbell, Ring advert mislead me into thinking it was easy installation. Now I need a ring transformer too! I am just returning it
Thank you for the video ; very clear, easy to understand the wired installation ; really helpfull. Did you use the Ring Chime too? or everything inlcuding ringing was via the mobile/app? thank you.
Thanks for the kind words 🙂 Yes I use a mix of the Ring Chime and my Echos to notify me when someone is at the door. I have pretty strong WiFi so this had always worked well for me.
Hi great video, I’ve followed this and I’m resulting in a buzzing noise coming from the transformer it’s not getting hot or anything but the sound is annoying… do you know how I can resolve this?
Hi, thanks 🙂 The buzzing sound is annoying because not all Ring transformers have this issue. The best advice is to firstly rule out any loose connections, but after that to contact Ring customer services who might be able to send a new transformer out.
Thanks so much for your video it was very helpful to me. I too had a deta chime which was high voltage. I bought a standard transformer and have wired this in and mounted it where the chime was. As it was a standard transformer I didn’t get a circuit breaker, am I ok without this or is it a safety concern? Everything seems to be working fine? Thanks
No worries, glad it helped 🙂 Regarding the circuit breaker, you don't need a separate (non-Ring) breaker in the circuit but you ideally so need the Pro Power Kit since this acts like a breaker with the Doorbell Pro in certain cases (such as if you configure it to use a mechanical chime when there is none).
Everything you need should be in the box (including the transformer): support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115000148786-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-European-Version I've seen some eBay UK stores well just the Pro (no transformer), but officially the Ring Pro should always include the Ring Transformer.
Hi, Thanks ever so much for the video - it managed to give me the confidence to fit my own - although had to get a different breaker box which was a little bigger than yours! Thanks again, really appreciated the explanations.
Hmm that's frustrating. I've heard people mention this, but mine was fine. Of the people who have had this themselves, some people say that they had a short (e.g. the wires at the Pro were touching each other), others had a loose wire connection somewhere, and fixing this usually fixed the humming. If that doesn't help though, it could be worth getting in touch with Ring's support team incase it's an issue with the transformer (i.e. beyond any minor noise it could make).
I'm getting the very exact issue... and has caused no amount of distress to my dog... to the extent that I've uninstalled the Ring pro and am considering returning it. But, I might actually tin the wires to see if that helps ensure that the wires don't fray and come into contact with each other.
Hello, yes it would be possible to install and get the existing chime working, but that latter bit isn't covered in this video guide (which removes the chime completey, and just goes input -> transformer -> doorbell).
Thanks mate 🙂 Ah that's a pity, but it makes sense to send it back. Ring's battery doorbells with adhesive tape could be an alternative, although naturally these could be ripped off by someone.
@@SmartHomePoint hahahaha lol just the best idea is to return it lol saves all other expenses and no new holes in the wall and I had a brand new chime system to and was looking for the possibly another part but there wasn't one etc.
This video has given me the courage to give it a go with the wired installation. Waiting for the transformer to turn up. Will be "butchering" a cat5e cable to create a bit of an extension from existing doorbell button as it is far too low. Let's see how we get on! Thanks for the awesome video.
Hi excellent and informative video. Would the same instructions apply to the ring transformer 2? I have ring video doorbell wired and am going to buy the transformer 2 would the set up with the twisted pairs be the same?
Hi, thank you 🙂 Yes the same steps are true for the Ring transformer 2, although it is a slightly different shape so you might need to get a different DIN rail enclosure. Maybe it will fit fine, I just haven't tried it out myself.
Unfortunately it is yes. Some Ring transformers make no noise, others do. If yours seems too loud, try contacting Ring customer service - sometimes they send a new one out.
Oh that's interesting. I'm wondering whether a 2 or 3 module DIN enclosure might be better instead? As it will give more space. Alternatively, the following might work well but I'm not sure if overheating could then become an issue: www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/hylec-dn-junction-box-125x175x75mm-671722?vat=1&pr=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjJmIBhA4EiwAQdCbxjiEpMKZ0b2qrZEhFbTF292PERnZOd100YSMCvxfhrQ4O9HBahBNphoClQ0QAvD_BwE
Hello, unfortunately I'm not sure where the bypass cable would go with the C3501. The Deta doorbell doesn't always supply sufficient and constant voltage for the Ring Doorbell. That's why I swapped it out completely, since it's not compatible as-is for powering a Ring Doorbell.
Thanks for this video, it was useful for me when replacing a crap builder-supplied BG doorbell transformer/chime, which only supplied 8v, with a proper 8-24v bell transformer for my Reolink smart doorbell. I used your method with the wylex enclosure but used BG bell transformer instead from screwfix (almost looks identical to your ring one just with BG branding, wouldnt surprise me if they came out the same factory), wired it up for 16v ac (tested with my multimeter).
Great video and very well explained. I want to use my existing mechanical doorbell which is on rings supported mechanical doorbells list. The mechanical doorbell has its own transformer situated within the mechanical doorbell box. I don't want to buy a new transformer enclosure and should be able to replace the one in the mechanical doorbell casing. Trying to understand rings instructions for this type of install is a bit of a nightmare!. Have you any advise on accomplishing this? Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words. It's good that your existing doorbell is compatible - although unfortunately I'm not sure how to wire it up in this case, this was something that confused me a fair bit when I read Ring's instructions. I hope you find out what to do and get it installed soon though :)
I bought a different brand of doorbell and there was no mention of any circuit breakers. Is is really necessary? And if so, are there any third-party circuit breakers out there that o should buy instead?
It probably does depend on the doorbell you have, yes. Ring's ones are designed to ring a separate chime, hence the need for the Pro Power Kit in many cases. But that doesn't mean that all smart doorbells require something similar 🙂
Thanks for the video. Can you tell me how you removed the wires from the Deta doorbell please? There are orange tabs underneath the green connection blocks - do you have to prise these down, up or in to release the wires?
Unfortunately I can't remember for sure how easy it was to remove the wires. I think it was fairly easy though - I think I used a flathead screwdriver on the orange tabs, and moved them away - whilst pulling on the wire to remove it.
Thanks, glad you found it helpful. The Deta chime is unfortunately incompatible: support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/209028546-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Chime-Kit-Compatibility-List (that's the US link, there's an equivalent UK one but I can't find that now - it does list Deta as incompatible too though)
Yes I just used the plug in chime, and it's working fine so far. My WiFi is really reliable so I don't have any problen with relying on a WiFi only chime and getting rid of the Deta chime, but I know some people prefer having a mechanical chime too.
Hi there. There is a way to get your old chime to work but it requires the use of a relay... This instructable explains all.... www.instructables.com/UK-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Working-With-Mechanical/
Hi I have this same deta bell box if I connect the ring doorbell version 2 to the wires coming out of the doorbell will that work to charge my doorbell and then could I just buy the plug in ring chime because my deta chime will not work would it work this way round? Cheers
Hello. Yes whilst I haven't tried it myself, I _think_ that what you say would work. The output voltage of the Deta doorbell unit should be sufficient for the Ring Doorbell 2 in theory - as it has 14.5v AC, and the Doorbell 2 should work with 8-24v AV transformers. It's worth noting that the overall Deta unit is listed as incompatible here: support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/115003008663-Ring-Video-Doorbell-2-Chime-Kit-Compatibility-List ...I _think_ that just relates to the chime unit itself, but it might mean that you'd need to disable the chime component and just use the transformer part of the Deta unit? (And then use the plug-in Ring Chime, as you mention). In short, what you say should work - but it's not something I'm too sure about sorry!
@@SmartHomePoint Ok thanks for your reply yeah I think it should work to charge the ring doorbell and il plug in the ring chime.Yes il disable the chime part and will have a go fingers crossed will keep it trickle charged I just don't want to keep changing the battery would prefer it to be hardwired for the charging part. Cheers again thanks mate 👍
I'm baffled what to do We just picked up the ring wired version We don't have a current transformer or chime installed on the consumer unit However we have space to put one Do we just install a suitable transformer Then wire directly from transformer into the ring?
You can do that, yes. In my case, I have a 230V mains cable from my consumer unit to my wall, which then transforms it down to a 24V supply to my doorbell. But putting the Ring DIN-rail transformer directly in the consumer unit (outputting 24V from there). Alternatively you could just buy the plug-in adapter and skil the transformer completely; it depends how easy running a fresh cable to the doorbell is.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks for getting back to me We are in the process of upgrading the CU as we have the floorboards open and doing a fair amount of new installs So it makes sense to just do it from the CU as we have a few spare spaces Thanks for confirming this with me
No i dont think it shows on the ring 3 plus , it just says wired and battery shows very good ,i read somewhere it says for saving battery it won’t change till it gets below %90 so i will wait till battery goes below %90 , im hoping it will charge back up 🤞🏽
Ah good point, I had forgotten that it's more of a trickle charge with the non-Pro options. You're probably right that it's not currently charging much/at all due to its design. Plus the Ring support page says that low temperatures can have an impact too: support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/204252980-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Hardwired-vs-Battery-Powered-Operation
Why you couldn’t install the transformer in the consumer unit? You already had a switch for the door bell in your consumer unit. All you had to do was replace this with the ring transformer and this would send the necessary 24 volts to the doorbell box and then straight connect it there to the doorbell. Am I missing something?
My understanding is that I would still have had to join the CAT5 output cable to the higher guage 240v input cable somewhere - i.e. still at the wall where the old Deta doorbell (and new Ring transformer) were. So yes, I could have done it this way but it still would have required a junction box or similar outside of the consumer unit AFAIK?
@@SmartHomePoint M’y current doorbell has just two single white wires going out to my old doorbell straight from the transformer. I don’t have a CAT5 output at all. My problem is that my consumer unit has no dedicated switch so i can’t be sure which cables going to the existing doorbell. So I bought the adaptor pro doorbell so I can totally remove my existing doorbell with a socket and just plug it in
It could have been, but I saw someone else attempt it and they ended up using some tape to hold the Ring transformer in place inside the Deta chime unit. Since that felt like a bit of an unreliable approach, I thought that I'd be better off with a specific 1 unit DIN rail enclosure.
Hi, good video. Exactly what I want to do. What version of the ring doorbell is the one in the video and what else do I need to have everything you used in the video?
Hi, thanks! This is the Ring Doorbell Pro 1, but the steps should be similar for the Pro 2 and Doorbell Wired too. The only other thing you'll need is the wall enclosure - I purchased this one: www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-ese2-ip40-2-module-unpopulated-din-enclosure/32311
@@SmartHomePoint Hi, I got the Ring doorbell wired but it didn't come with the transformer or circuit breaker. Can these be purchased seperatley do you know?
Heh - from memory, yes it unfortunately is a case of brute force. I don't remember there being any clips. I seem to recall that I just put one hand on the unit itself (at the back), and another covering both sides of the cover - then just yanking it off. It shouldn't require LOADS of force though.
@@SmartHomePoint i tried the brute force method. It worked well without breaking anything. There were clips, but they are so shallow it doesn’t hold too hard. I noticed the clip was on the middle on the bottom and on the right side on the top. I started to gently pry from the bottom middle, then went along the edges ever so gently. Just in case anyone else wonders. Thank you for your answer.
Out of interest, do you know why you had 2 'twisted pair' cables (from a cat5 ethernet cable) to your doorbell? On Amazon I see they sell 'bell' cable which is 2x single strand cables... I need to solder on an extension to make my doorbell wires longer. I'm wondering if I should use 2x twisted pair cable from cat5 as you did, or if I should extend to a single cable on each.
I might be wrong but I think it's about the maximum voltage. Low guage wire like telephone or bell cable doesn't always supply sufficient voltage to higher voltage doorbells, including some smart doorbells.
@@SmartHomePoint when you ordered the pro power v2, did it come with the doorbell packaging or did you have to order separate? Also, where did you order from if it all came together?
@westyafc99 I ordered from the Currys eBay store to be honest, and the pack included the Pro Power Kit v2 yes. Maybe Ring have changed what's included recently though? My Pro 2 box didn't include a Pro Power Kit.
Everything after I stripped back the Deta doorbell would be the same yes - i.e. the Ring Pro transformer needs a mains voltage cable as input. Alternatively if you don't have an existing doorbell at all, you can buy the Plug-In Adapter which plugs into a wall socket and then you run the cable directly to the back of your Ring Doorbell Pro (i.e. do need for a transformer in-between).
@@SmartHomePoint Thank you. Much appreciated. I've got an electrician coming in to do a fair bit of wiring anyway so transformer wont be any extra trouble. So you used the two little holes in the side of the pro power kit? Those spots are already showing on mine and when I peel back my sticker, it is a small two pin socket under there. Is that the same for you?
Ah cool, sounds like including the transformer will be simple enough for the electrician then. Yes I used the two little holes in the side of the Pro Power Kit. Mine sounds the same as how you describe yours yes.
This may or may not be of use at this stage but there are some more details about the doorbell here, and how to get it to work with your existing chime if that’s something you wanted to do..... www.instructables.com/id/UK-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Working-With-Mechanical/
Cheers, great video! Would I be able to just splice open a power cable, plug one end into the transformer and the other end in to wall socket for AC power? Is there any issues with doing that grounding maybe?
Thanks, glad you found it useful :) What you say should in theory work as it would be 230V into the transformer input... but I'm not a qualified electrician so I can't say for sure. I'm not sure if you know about the Ring Pro Plug-In Adapter, but that might be a good alternative. It's an official Ring product and allows you to bypass the transformer completely - you plug it into a wall socket, and then you just get two 24V cables to connect directly to the Ring Pro terminals. Could be a nicer solution, depending on if you can run the cable.
@@SmartHomePoint i just got the adapter for the doorbell. I am planning on replacing the doorbell box with a socket and the wires from the bell will just come out there on top. I need to cut the adapter cable as it is 6 metres long but I only need 15 cms.
Great vid! The terminals on the rear of the ring doorbell look very exposed to water ingress. Is there any kind of water seal that comes with the doorbell to give it some sort of protection from water seeping down between door frame and doorbell?
Thanks! Yes you're unfortunately right, they do seem fairly exposed. There's no water seal included, nor is this mentioned in the full install guide. It's been dry since I installed the Ring Doorbell, but I'll keep an eye on things when it next rains.
Hi Hamid, there's been no issues at all thankfully :) There have even been rain drops on the very top, but with no issues in the operation of the Ring Doorbell.
Thanks! I just checked the app and I get a 'Transformer Voltage' of 'Good/4003.0mV' and a 'Signal Strength' of 'RSSI - 59'. My Pro auto connected on 5 GHz WiFi but it's always worked fine even though there's two walls between the doorbell and my router.
Ok thanks for the info. Also on my deta I got blue/white twisted cable and Full blue connect instead of your orange/white twisted. Does it make a difference? Thank you :)
Yeah that'd be fine too - as long at there's enough output voltage going to the Pro, the actual cables/wires themselves shouldn't matter. The only real issue would be if the output wires are very, very thin (e.g. if a single strand of telephone wire is used) - in that case, there wouldn't be enough output voltage to the doorbell.
I did the instalation yesterday and everything is working fine. Thank you for making this video and for your replies. You got a new subscriber. Best wishes :)
