In this video I show the diagnosis and repair of a "jammed control Mechanism", involving this BSR C141R Turntable. This unit is from a Panasonic SE-2600 combo unit. #TurntableRepair #BSRTurntable #RetroElectroTech
Just purchased a late 70's Montiverdi player....can't get the stop/play/auto to move. Since watching your video, I've got a good plan on how to tackle it. Thank you....
Thank you! Really appreciate how detailed you were as it was my first time diving into disassembling a record player. This video helped save a Sony HP-318's turntable. It Just so happened to be the same exact issue, next up is the 8 Track player. Once that's done, it will be a fully working machine again.
Nice to hear that some of the video content I do here helped you out. It's satisfying getting this nice old equipment resurrected and doing what is was designed to do...Enjoy!
My changer is almost identical to this one. Motor is exact--and was getting so hot that I could not touch it. The shaft would spin freely; but, it wasn't until I took it apart and cleaned the rotor off with a dremel tool ( wire wheel) and then lubricated the shaft bearings and re-assembled the motor. Now it stays cool enough to rest my fingers on it after several records have been played.
I wish I had watched this earlier today it would have saved me so much time with the transit screw clips. I thought the clip had to come off to remove the turntable. Try putting those clips back on in the box. Now I see how easy it should be. Thanks
I'm happy to hear the video proved helpful. Yes, if you're not familiar with the workings of transit screws, they can be a bit fiddly to figure out. Thanks for chiming in, my best to you 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and skill ! Before I embark on projects like this, I study a lot beforehand and watch videos from multiple sources. I was given an all in one Pioneer H2001 by an elderly neighbor who had purchased it new. The model has a tuner, 8 track and a BSR C141 changer on top. Controls stuck, TT barely moving, etc. Happy to report I am thoroughly enjoying a fully functioning system now. Spent an afternoon at the kitchen table doing the refurbishment as I paused, backed up and repeated chunks of your video as my guide. Cleaned up all the pots and the 8 track components using common sense as my guide too. Appreciate you sir !
I have a BSR record changer where it plays and operates normally, the only problem I have is that something underneath the platter drags enough to make a noise that can be audible when playing a 33 1/3 or 45rpm. The sound isn't as noticeable on 16 or 78rpm. I've tried to clean and grease up the area under player (i.e. rings under platter) it may help for a short time but it comes back, whether it is from start or gradually builds back up. The speed is good the reject sometimes stops and will start up again, otherwise fine.
Sorry to hear You're having noise issues, yes, those mechanisms can get a bit finicky with rubbing noises etc. It's hard for me to say for certain what's causing that because there are several variables. However, start by removing the platter, start the motor and engage the speed control and see if the rubber idler wheel is engaging with the stepped spindle and if everything appears to function smoothly. Sometimes if there is a warp to the idler (if it wears that way etc.), noise will result as it spins against the stepped spindle, as well as the inner rim of the platter itself. Also, when that rubber idler wheel becomes hard and looses it's rubbery / elastic feel, it will get noisy as well. In some cases when that rubber idler wheel is not adjusted properly (it's height etc.) the bottom of the idler hub might rub a little on the chassis (in some cases). Additionally, be sure the bearings are clean, properly lubricated and properly installed. The main cam gear under the platter also has to be clean and properly lubricated. Otherwise, all of the critical structures, spindle, spindle hub, various shafts that gears, cams, and wheels ride upon (as well as the various control levers) all must be straight, so, take Your time and assure nothing is tweaked slightly out of it's normal operating position. Hope you narrow it down, my best to ya 🙂
@Retro Electro Tech. Hey Sir. On the BSR (mine is a Panasonic rd7673 oemd by BSR ) cycling gear, what is the best way to get it back on the spindle so I can put the retention clip on? I disassembled the platter, gear etc for cleaning/maintenance, and the gear isnt wanting to go on there by hand. Thank you sir. Tr
Good morning Mr. Bullard, that's a bit odd that the cam gear isn't dropping back down on the shaft. Is there still some "stuck on" degraded lubricant etc. on the shaft or cam gear? I would imagine You cleaned it well enough, however, if You did not, there could be something there inhibiting re-installation, especially if Your unit's cam and shaft were machined with a tighter than normal tolerance to begin with. Also, is there a bend or other "deformity" (even very slight) that could be causing binding? Was it very difficult to get the gear off in the first place? because if it came off easy enough, it should go back on without issue. Also, are You sure You're putting it back on the way it came off? I know these are obvious questions, but sometimes it's the little things that are overlooked. I assume You lubricated the shaft and hole of the cam to aid in re-insertion?
@@retroelectrotech I was not putting it on correctly sir! Had to push that pin/follower or roller whatever forward a bit, to allow it to drop into place! Thank you for the response sir! Subscribed!
Hi, my husband asked me to ask you what type of lithium grease you use on old record players to lubricate the components (gears and sliders). Or what number of lithium grease. He watched your video, but you never specified the type and there are different numbers and types. :) Thanks in advance!
Good afternoon Mrs. McAllister, for the lubrication of most of the "non-precision" mechanisms, i.e. levers, sliders, linkages etc., those with "heavier movement" and contact with each other and the chassis etc., any good WHITE lithium grease, such as Lucas, AGS and other such brands commonly found at hardware and auto parts stores is just fine. So, it's not one of those situations where You're dealing with super tight tolerances / spacings and or high speed / high temperature applications...It's a turntable mechanism, not the space shuttle (joke) 🙂However, when You're lubricating around the hub / spindle area and in many circumstances around the tonearm lift spindle, You'll want to use a good sewing machine oil, in other words something of a very light viscosity and clean, in other words, some thing that is not prone to getting "gummy" as it degrades over time as all lubricant will eventually do. There are of course exceptions to the rule based on the design of the mechanism. For example, some tonearm mechanisms will require a "damping grease" to assist with a very slow and smooth setting down of the tonearm on the vinyl. Again, it depends on the design. However, for most vintage turntables of the type / catagory covered in the video, i.e. BSR's, Garrards and the units found in big old consoles like the Magnavox's (Micromatics) etc., my above suggestions will work just fine, especially when grease and fine oil is applied properly on only the working surfaces. Just tell Your other half not to go "lube crazy" and apply the grease like he's "frosting a wedding cake" 😃
@@retroelectrotech Thank you so much for replying to our question! He now knows exactly what you are talking about and said thank you. He is on his way out to find some! :)
😆 Yeah, I remember listening to that, as well as smoking all those "green leafy substances" when I was a young buck, fun times indeed. Have a good day, thanks for chiming in.
I had just left a thank you comment above and had to add to this. After getting my system in order, I had no 8 tracks to test. A trip to the local record store yielded a small lot of comedy 8 tracks. Steve Martin, Red Foxx and Los Cochinos !
Love the write up. I've got a similar player, I have everything moving well, but it fails to drop the record before moving the tone arm. Any idea how to adjust that timing?
Good morning, there's a few things You might want to check first. Make sure there isn't any problems with the spindle, as far as the way that it is seated in the center bearing (make sure it's straight as well, not bent slightly). Additionally, make sure that the rod (Pawl) in the spindle, which pushes on the record (and causes it to drop) is moving freely. If it's sluggish or otherwise bound up (seized), You'll need to clean it up and get it moving freely. Another thing to check, is that the overarm moves freely and sets down (under it's own weight) on top of the record / stack of records, and moves freely as well. If not, You'll need to clean and lubricate it's own spindle. Another very important mechanism to check, is the release lever (also known as a feed link), which is a lever located on the topside of that main plate / operating cam assembly on the bottom (inside) of Your turntable. The release lever / feed link I'm referring to, is essentially a spring operated lever that activates the spindle rod / pawl, which in turn initiates record drop. Make sure the spring is ok and the lever itself is moving freely. If it is seized up, You'll need to clean it and reapply some white lithium grease to the area on which there is movement. Those are my initial suggestions without the benefit of being able to evaluate it on the bench. If everything else is cycling / moving mechanically / operating as it should, then it is more than likely something that I pointed out. Otherwise, there could possibly be some other issues.
