i'm very impressed with the young man your teaching all the right things to. I've been meaning to say this for quite awhile but keep forgetting. He is a very good student, learning from a very good teacher.
left us on a cliff hanger... did they get it out? I am on the edge of my seat!!!! Thank you so much for your content, I really enjoy the pride you take in a job done correctly, and just tackle the problems as they come. can't wait for the next installment!
Scott-- your calm and patient mentoring of your son in law reminds me so much of my late father. He was a USAF veteran as a mechanic on a Convair B-36 aircraft and became a machinist and licensed aircraft mechanic. I learned so much about automotive and aircraft mechanics and electricity from him. Your son in law is so fortunate to have you!
It seems that only a few people have ever been taught to shock a bolt by hitting it straight on with a hammer BEFORE attempting to turn it. I first learned to do this from an old Detroit Diesel mechanic back in the 1980's when I was getting ready to remove a hub cover from an aluminum hub on a trailer. He told me that BEFORE I even put a socket on the head of the bolt I needed to take a big drift and a 2 pound hammer and smack straight in several times on the head of each bolt (like trying t drive it deeper into the hole) to shock the rust bond loose that surrounds the bolt shank and threads. I already knew from experience and word of mouth that these hub cover bolts were notorious for breaking when removing them. So I took his advice and smacked every bolt head a few times before trying them and they all came out intact. Since then I have made the hammer smack a step in the process any time I have a bolt that has been seated in an aluminum component for a long time. At the time I learned of this I had already been doing mechanic work for over 12 years and had never heard of doing it. It seems that the technique is still not very well known.
Also work the stuck bolt back and forth while apply a little penetrating fluid to it. Working the broken stud like this will allow oil to work its way down on the threads.
Also, 1. Try to tighten bolt 2 degrees to try to loosen corrosion. 2. If bolt has not loosened keep turning each way 2 degrees to keep working lubricant into the crevice. 3. After bolt starts to turn change rotation to keep threads from locking up!! 4. Take your time with each step - 99% of all fasteners will loosen. Slow and steady takes less time and cost less than fixing broken components. 😅😅 ❤Love the show and can do attitude to keep old coaches on the road. I have an 84 Bluebird with a 6V92TA
I really enjoy watching these tear downs it's always informative this last one was a rust bucket and I wonder how many parts you're going to be able to use out of this thing
I would love a more complete and clear description to liner bore protrusion measurements….describing where measurements are taken as the top of the liner is not flat. There is a lower point and a taller ridge. I have met all the Detroit experts that don’t seem to have a clue only to discover what they don’t know. I appreciate all the great content! I’m a sponge for it all. I’m working on 6/92 marines
I recently retired from the marine industry, boy, I don’t miss extracting broken crusty rusty exhaust manifold bolts hardly at all. Watching your guy struggle with those vice grips was more than a little painful to watch. When I get ‘em broken off with a half an inch proud I go straight to welding a nut on there, I don’t mig them on, I go straight to the stick
Great find on the Tekton locking pliers I will add those to my toolbox just like the Knipex pliers, another BGM find. Oh, and those snapon mini pry bars for all the things we destroy screwdrivers for.
If you have a pair of vice grips that are not perfect you can weld a small nut onto the side edge and use that to stop the air hammer from jumping around. Great job!!
The gas rig has long been one of my go-to wrenches for tough bolts. That and giving a bolt a little shock from the impact before working in it. Great work on this beast that's putting up a real battle.
My sympathies. I was so excited to see that turbo drain bolt come out. Next, I see the threaded ends aren't the same length in the magnetic tray. 💔 The rest of the video is just more 💔 after 💔 with more and more cap screws. snapping.
what a disaster glad your fixing it ,im sure the owner will be pleased they'll think it's a race car not a bus after your done. cant wait to see the test drive
I would recommend removing the aftercooler and thoroughly cleaning it, if it looked dirty on top it's probably dirty right through the core, it's a small area for all that air to get through so any buildup is restriction. The ones I've cleaned it was unbelievable how much crud came out after soaking and blowing out. The last few I did I soaked in straight superclean degreaser overnight then poured boiling water through followed up with a pressure washer. When they're clean you can see a flashlight shining through.
I thought about the inside of the aftercooler too, after seeing the rest of the cooling system condition I am sure the core is pretty clogged and gross.
Heat and beat ! reminds me in my younger days replacing a oil pan on an old 671 in an old wooden boat, had the 671 0n its side using a tourch to heat up the oil pan bolts, bilge full of diesel and old oil heads of the bolts sizziling as it hit the bilge water, no fires but the whole yard crew came running down to check for fires as all the old oil burning of the block,,,,,,need less to say new oil pan, good to go heating with a tourch is your best friend !
When loosening stuck bolts, if it moves, go back and forth from tightening it, to loosening it, while spraying it down with kroil. It chases the crap out of the threads so you don't break bolts as much.
Always enjoy watching and learning. Have you ever tried Rydlime for cleaning corrosion and muck from engine innars, heat exchangers, etc. Safe, reusable, and remarkable effective. I was put on to it by an old farmer/mechanic. Used to great success on marine heat exchangers.
One thing. Typically Visegrips usually work better when loosening tight bolts, nuts or studs when pushing toward the movable jaw rather than away from.
After all these years of service it still makes sense to rebuild this engine. California would never let you run it through. Our governor has never turned a wrench but knows better than either of us.
Is this thing really worth saving? I get that your essentially committed at this point but if everything in the engine bay is this bad what about the rest of the bus?
Nightmare fuel Now i wobder how much rust is under this rustalodge after seeing this engine that looks like it was under the ocean for a few months... Prayers for no rusty chassis🙏
Jeeze! The owner is going to be in $1000 in hardware alone just to get it back together! I'm surprised how many bolts actually came out of the top of that blower housing without snapping. As you mentioned the dissimilar metals love to seize together.
Just a thought as I did buses for the Detroit Diesel Distributor and we made a cradle to slide the engines in and out. A lot less work in the long run.
Do you use antisieze when you reassemble, or is there an issue with that? I use it on everything. Also, when I remove a sized bolt I always slowly work it back and forth, and spray oil until it becomes loose Rock on guys!
You give me great encouragement to maintain my old cast iron piston GM car engines properly. Are you far from a power line or is the expense overboard?
Are you using official Detroit sleeves and pistons? If not can you recommend an after market? I have a 871TI in a boat can’t get parts. Enjoy your videos. You have come along way from when you started. Bart
I don't know if you control the SUBTITLES/CAPTIONS or RU-vid does but without them it's difficult to understand the voice audio at times. (granted the subtitles are kinda nuts at times but it's better than nothing)
Brother, I don't understand why you didn't pull the whole block out of that chassis. Also don't understand why you haven't pulled the turbocharger and supercharger off. Especially with the overheating situation. I'm sure you know what you're doing, and I'm not a lame and I worked in the heavy truck industry for a lot of years and worked on a lot of 8v92s but I think it would have been a whole lot easier to get that out on an engine stand and do it that way. Just my opinion. Okay my mistake, I didn't watch you to the end I was in the middle of the video when I put this together so, sorry hahaha. Great video!
24:33 From what I can see, this gentleman did not take care of this vehicle. Looks like he did all the wrong things. One needs to keep up on the maintenance of any vehicle. I love to watch your videos very interesting.
Looks like it was run with just water instead of proper coolant. I never knew why but at one time in UK it was common practice to only use antifreeze in winter and use straight water in summer.
Please put some wall board or corrugated metal behind the work benches to protect the foam insulation from sparks and torches. I'd really hate to hear that you had a fire in that foam!
scot get yourself a piece of metal fuel line about 6 inch cut teeth on one end using a hack saw you will find it is the right size for the hole the bolt is stuck in run the pipe in down the side of the stuck bolt it will follow the hole already there that is full of crap by spinning the pipe in a drill it removes all the crap holding the stuck bolt steady away and you will get there
It's been mentioned in the comments of previous videos that Tyler decided that he wanted to get into a cleaner line of work and moved back to Indianapolis to pursue other interests.
Ah...the ol' thermal wrench...for when you are done asking nicely Are those roots blowers better than a centrifugal supercharger? I know two strokes need blowers...but would a gear driven supercharger push more boost to the engine rather than a blower? My thinking is maybe a "modernized" Detroit diesel instead of having the blower, have a gear driven, shaft supercharger for the air charge rather than the blower style... Just saw the DDEC 2, has a turbo feeding into the blower!!!! whaaaaaat?? Keep em coming!!!!
Remember kids, it can’t be tight if it’s a liquid And I am intrigued by the forged induction. I was about to ask why not turbocharge it, but I’m sure the math adds up somehow. Something to do with not needing an intercooler?
The supercharger in a 2-stroke Detroit is not there to make more power. It's there to blow the exhaust out the valves by blowing fresh air into the cylinders through the ports. It won't run without it. It's a high volume low pressure arrangement. A Roots blower can make move way more air at low speeds than a centrifugal blower can. To make more power, you add a turbocharger(s) in addition. Which this engine has. But you can't use JUST a turbocharger because at idle/low load they won't move enough air for the engine to run. The BIG 2-stroke diesels as used in locomotives and ships actually combine the two. They have a compressor wheel that is gear driven until the exhaust driven turbine can spin it faster than the drive can, at which point an overrunning clutch lets them turn faster than the shaft. But I don't think that was ever used in engines as small as these. For perspective, this engine is 92 cubic inches per cylinder, while the EMD locomotive engines that are Detroits on steroids START at 567 cubic inches per cylinder, with the biggest ones being 710. And up to 20 cylinders.
You need the shaft driven Roots blower to push air as you start the engine. That compressed air that comes in at the bottom of the stroke must do 2 things as those slots open up. It must push all the exhaust air out in the time the cylinder is starting to uncover and then recover the slots at the bottom of the stroke. It must also push in clean air to burn at injection. The term, as I remember it, is "scavenging". There is no exhaust stroke like a 4 cycle. There is no suction (intake stroke) from a down stroke to pull in fresh air like on a 4 cycle engine. You only have a compression stroke and a power stroke. Exhaust valves are only open roughly when the slots at the bottom of the stroke are open. The cams are running 1:1 with the crank. Then you need hot exhaust that is expanding to drive the turbo. Once the engine has started the turbo can do its thing and compress the air to the Roots blower and then the Roots blower will further compress the air. Then you can pour the fuel through the injectors and have lots of horses to race up the big chert hill. I know I have left out lots of technical stuff. I just want to keep it simple.
You know I was just thinking. What was the other guys name? Hunter maybe? Did he quit/move on? Just was thinking I haven't seen him in awhile on the videos.
What are you hoping to achieve and how much more access do you want? Everything is easy to access from all three sides. Nothing to get to on the back side.
@@BusGreaseMonkey Im not a mechanic, I enjoy very much your videos but you guys always seem to be hunched over or reaching to get wrenches on bolts. Thought it might be easier.
I was going to say you we using those vise grips the wrong way but you flipped them around later in the Video..NO big Deal..Wouldn't it be easier to pull the Motor and work on it on a bench..?
