When I was disassembling. I heard something rattling around inside. Fast forward, it was the transistor that had fried itself off the board. Note to everyone. I am pretty sure it cooked because of running with a clogged vacuum line. Put motor at full amperage. Checked fuse and not blown. Would have been great if it popped the fuse vs. Cooking the power transistor off the board. $5 repair vs. $40 repair. Just ordered the new board using your link. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the added comment for everyone. I hope everything goes good for you and definitely let me know if I can help with anything. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 👊 🪚
I had the same failure - in the exact same spot on the board. Waiting for the part to arrive. Was thinking that the board might have gotten dusty and then had a short. Any thoughts in coating the new board in nail polish or silicon to make it more resistant to debris or water damage ?
Thanks for the response and for stopping by. I've never heard of nail polish being used but I've used non conductive silicone in the past so things were able to combat moisture, and so far its worked well. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
I can vouch for this product. We use this at my own HVAC company, more specifically for cleaning out the clogged condensate drains as well as vaccuming the water out of the drain pan when the safe-T-switch cuts off the unit. Great product. Very handy and highly recommend
Agreed, it's so nice with the mobility. We just used it during a T&P valve replacement in a water heater as well! How you enjoyed the content, we have much more coming!
When I received my new board I connected all the wires and then coated the whole thing with two part epoxy. Trying to protect it from moisture. So far so good.
That's awesome, thanks for the added comment, let me know if you need any other help and please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 👊 🪚
Thanks to your video I was quickly able to diagnose a faulty PCB, and thanks to your link below the video, I was able to order a replacement immediately. Color me delighted!
@@BourbonCreations Just subscribed. Thanks again! By the way, we have tile floors in our house and thus can -- and do --- use the Dewalt wet vac as our standard vacuum cleaner (it wouldn't be a good choice for carpets and rugs). It has done quite well for five years or more, and has done double-duty getting the last of the old water out of our hot tube when it was refill time. Our secret: A Kirby vacuum's hose handle fits on the Dewalt nozzle. Then we hook up a Dewalt vacuum wand and a Dewalt floor brush. Or rather, we hook up generic Kirby accessories (handle, wand, and brush) we've bought online (eBay is one source).
Great video! My PCB board is blown too. Same place. I noticed the black chip actually melted it's way off so I re soldered it back on and it came to life only to burn off again. I hope the replacement board doesn't burn up. I have had this since 2016 so, it could be just used up. I will be back to watch again when I install it.
Awesome, I'm glad this helped you out! Feel free to message me if you have any other questions though. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
@@BourbonCreations As soon as it comes in and I install it I will update. Super helpful. I will likely need to rewatch to make sure I plug it all back in right.
Lol, Well that's one way to not worry about it. Are you gonna try to fix it? Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
Thanks for the video. I had the same issue after a month of buying this new. After using it I topped it over accidentally and then it quit. Traced it down to a bad pcb. Interesting that the motor is 18v though.
This was very helpful. I bypassed the board through the switch and the motor ran, so my issue is with the board. My vacuum was used for less than an hour, and 3 years late it smelled like something burned out. I'm buying a new board and hope to get it running.
I'm glad this was able to help you diagnose. If you need help with installing the new board just let me know. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
It's most likely that issue. This video will show you how to bypass the battery and see if you get power beyond the pcb board. Let me know if I can help more. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
@angel ceren thank you so much! The channel is brand new but we'll be having far more content very soon. We'll be uploading something each week. I hope to share tips like this with others so they can save money where it matters!
Great video, thanks for sharing, I have this vac but the corded version, though that does not have the older type battery connection just the XR, Dewalt in the UK call the XR 20Volt but elsewhere 18 volt, it's because sometimes it is measured under load and other times not,
I have noticed differences with voltages and what's sold depending on the country, even with other brands. Please consider subscribing if interested. I'm glad you enjoyed the video, please let me know if we can help with anything at all!
2 of these at work have died and both have the same problem as this one. They didnt leave a big shit stain like that but it was the same component. One blew off the board and the other one blew part of its top off.
I'm sorry to hear that. Looks like this is somewhat common since a lot of guys have been using this video. Anything else I can do to help? Please please subscribe! More vids coming soon.
Have you measured how many amps it draws at maximum load ? I think I´ve read the inline fuse in the positive cable is 4Amps. The PCB itself is just a BMS to safeguard the battery from discharging beyond its limits. Knowing the max power draw, is just a matter of fitting any li-ion BMS that matches the power draw...
If I didn't mention it in the video, I honestly don't remember since it was so long ago that I did this repair. The thing I would watch for is not running your battery to an absolutely dead dead level. The PCB helps cut off power before draining lithium batteries to 0%. If you went too low and the battery won't charge, you just need to do a jump start. I'm actually making a video of that with a Milwaukee battery that I have. This battery went to low from an adapter I used to run a blower motor on a portable AC unit using drill batteries (ice chest portable AC). I should have that video up in a few days. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
6:17 - Actually they're the same voltage (charged), it was just a clever marketing scheme by Dewalt to put 20v on them. The nominal (running) voltage is still 18v.
Thanks for the comment. I think I meant to explain that where both batteries can be used but resistors pull out down to the same 18v. Appreciate your input and clarifying too. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
Thanks for the comment, let me know if you need any extra help, and please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 👊 🪚
I did, but in my case there was more than one component affected. Please please subscribe to our channel! I wanted to show the non experienced person how to bypass or replace the part entirely. I had a feeling most wouldn't want to purchase the tools, or wouldn't feel comfortable with that type of repair. Plus that site I listed (plus others) are so handy for all kinds of replacement parts.
Glad it helped! Did you get everything fixed or know where to go with it? Please like and subscribe so others can find it helpful. I'll keep making content like this as I fix things. If you have reviews or content you'd like to see just let me know and ill see if it's something I can help with.
@@BourbonCreations yes I did, my vacuum gave out last night at a customers house and I looked up how to fix it and your video came up and tada, I bypassed the circuit board and it works again. I am however going to order a new circuit board, mine looks just like yours did in the video. I already liked and subscribed.
Thank you. Did you need any extra help or have other questions? I'm happy to help where i can. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
Thanks for you video it is a lot of help. I took motherboard out and I didn't see any burn damages on the green side of it, but on the white part where u plug all the wires I see like white stuff on the batteries, there's like little batteries on this white part of the motherboard
@@mariobmxo183 awesome, I'm glad this helped you! Please let me know if you need any other help, sounds like a bad board for sure which is common with these. Please please consider a like and/or subscribe to help our channel grow 👊🪚👊🪚.
If it's white residue it's most likely water damage. You can try isopropyl alcohol (70% strength or greater). Just dip a hard bristle brush (like a hobby paint brush) in the alcohol and scrub the area where you see the residue. It'll dry in a couple mins. This often times can fix the problem where connections aren't bridging correctly.
Thanks for the comment. Let me know if you need any extra help beyond the video! Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
Thanks @BourbonDadDIY, good video, crappy PCB quality control - shame on Dewalt! I'm going to try running it bypassing the faulty board - but only with 2Ah batteries instead of the 4Ah I usually run. Is there a better way to bypass that board & be safe? Thanks again, you da man, I'm subscribing!!
Thank you so much for subscribing! I can definitely understand why you'd want to do that. Theoretically the positive wire coming off the switch already has a fuse. The board serves a few functions and one of those is resisting power, if you bypass the board just ensure you have a fuse in the live circuit so if anything gets out of line it will break the fuse, and prevent any excessive heat. If I can help with anything else please let us know. Please share any of my videos to your Facebook if you think they can help someone. Thank you again! (Disclosure: As mentioned in the video, I'm not a licensed electrician).
If you click the ereplacements website link I added (not affiliated or anything with me), they have all the parts, including the exact fuse and the descriptions with the number you're looking for. I don't have the number readily written down, unfortunately. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 👊 🪚
Mine is covered by warranty. They said take it to a local shop which is closed. For 30 dollars I don't think it's worth the repair If this problem keeps happening with new boards to people. I love/hate this thing. 3 vacs down already.
That’s unfortunate, and yes it seems many people encounter this. I wonder if there is a common leak where water gets into that area during use. At least you’re getting a warranty too! Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help it grow 👊 🪚
I actually show in the video how to wire and bypass the board in order to see if the issue is at the PCB. This will create a constant power setting with the switch, please please consider liking the video and subscribing! If you bypass it though you must ensure you keep an in line fuse so that it can break if any power issues occur.
@@BourbonCreations I already liked the video. Thanks for the very in depth video. I cannot find a PCB available from anywhere right now. I bypassed the PCB, still using the On/Off switch. I ran the vacuum about 5 minutes. So far, so good. All un-used wires are tie wrapped and taped. Only used 2 posts on the switch. The ground wire directly from the battery had a larger spade connector, so I had to crimp the end a little to get it tight on the post. I'll update after the job I am heading to this week.
I've had the same issue which is why I bypassed the fuse and hardwired it. I put in a different in line fuse to keep things save and haven't had any problems at all, as well as a few others in the comments. Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 👊 🪚
Thanks for stopping by. I added links in the description for the PCB board (first link) and another for all other parts you may be looking for (last link). Please consider liking the video and subscribing to the channel to help me grow 🪚 👊
You can find the actual part by following the link below. It's about $6 plus shipping. I don't have the amp rating handy unfortunately. Apologies. Please subscribe to my channel! Lead wire with fuse: www.ereplacementparts.com/motor-lead-wire-assy-p-1802445.html
The exact same part of the replacement PCB burned out, leaving a scorch mark identical to the scorch mark on the factory-installed PCB. This time, when I installed a new PCB, I put a short length of electrical tape on the housing (and screwhead) above the PCB where the scorch mark was. My thinking is that there's contact, perhaps intermittent, between the PCB and the screwhead, causing the PCB to burn out. Also, of note, the second time around when I tested to make sure the motor was OK, I simply wired in serial two 9volt batteries (the kind used in smoke detectors, toys, and some remote controls) and tested the motor with it. Simple, quick and less stress on the various connectors.
Awesome idea for testing the motor! My first thought was that maybe a seal or a screw is loose. If so maybe it's letting water in (are you vaccuming liquids?). If not, the screw touching may be the reason! If that's happening I wonder if it's a manufacturer defect since so many people run into this. This video continues to see about 75-100 views a day. There must be some commonality of why it's happening.
@@jdfulton620 it must be a connection problem where there is a bridge causing a malfunction. Fingers crossed your covering the screw stops it. If it does I'll have to update the video description so others can do the same too
