Northwoods congrats on the new compressor. It looks like the one at TSH I'm thinking of buying. About your regulator setup. it is recommended to use a flex (whip) hose from your tank to the rigidly mounted regulator. It's suppose absorb vibration from the A.C. to the Reg. Prevent leaks down the road. A ball valve, then flex hose, then regulator. Don't take this as a critique but more of a warning. The wiring from the A.C. to the receptacle is very unsafe. SO cord, which is flexible should be used instead of Romex when utilizing a plug, instead of hard wiring to a box. It also provides better conductor insulation . Example: You have an " uninsulated Ground" (Green) running between two hot legs of the 220 connections in the plug assembly. Romex's Ground is uninsulated. SO cord provides insulation on the ground Green) conductor. Hate to see ya get hurt or burn down your shop!
Hey, thanks! Ya know, I had that thought when I wired up the plug. I really thought the ground should have had something around it for insulation, but I didnt know what else to use beside romex at the time. (I just recently discovered pre-wired appliance whips) As it sits, unless it's in use, I leave the A.C. off and unplugged with the breaker in the box off as well because the wiring made me nervous lol. I'll look into getting a flex hose between the compressor and regulator too. Also didn't know those existed lol. Thanks for the advice!
The vibrations and heat from being in use will cause fractures in the solid copper of nmb wiring or Romex it’s not recommended for these kinds of installs. Stranded copper is best for this.
Solid pipe from tank to dryer bolted solid to the wall , with the compressor vibration something has to give , needs some kind of flexibility between the two
How did you put the off n auto cover back on? I had a time getting it to line up with that white thing that goes in the pressure switch and today it jumped off n it won't go back on right, I have tried ever way possible n when I turn the white thing the compressor doesn't start up. Thanks!
I used a harborfreight filter/regulator combo. I'll look for a link. I'm not sure how going from 3/4 to 1/2 affects anything other than increasing pressure. I can say I have not had any issues running any of my air tools so I'm going to stick with this setup.
Looks like my Kobalt except different color and mine is dual stage. POS, leaks air and blew up in the middle of night with oil ejected across the garage. What a mess. That plastic sight glass (cheap plastic) on mine always leak oil until it gave out with an explosion. It's under warranty but Lowe's said they don't have parts and tell me to bring the 300 pound top heavy monster back. No can do, not going to hurt myself and ended up in emergency. The thing is, warranty has on site repair, Lowe's screwed me again like my Kobalt chainsaw under warranty and they don't have parts either. Sounds like a no parts recurring theme during warranty. Anyhoo I would replace the junk plastic site glass with the next oil change. It's rated at 200 psi, almost zero safety factor. Got one rated at 600 psi. How come I could easily find parts and Lowe's don't have it?
Appreciate the feedback. This was before I had decent editing software or had any idea how to mix the audio on a video. Hopefully doing better now with newer vids.
My electric motor just went out just buy this junk back in 1/22/21 and my oil less 21 gallon air compressor is still kicking after 5 years so yeah I wouldn't buy another dewalt air compressor
@@steven8moore Did the motor itself quit or just the startup capacitors? On one hand it's bad that anything failed. But if it's just the startup capacitors as several have had, they aren't expensive and you can fix it yourself...
Some people use hose coming out of the tank leaving enough hose in a loop not kinked then to regulator. The compressor should be anchored to the floor. They do sell a drain hose to run from bottom of tank with a shut off. Also after running it for 20 min. the compressor oil should be changed for break in.
The owners manual calls for oil change after first 20 hours of operation so its best to follow that. The break-in is basically to work-harden the internals and it is my guess that the break-in oil supplied by manufacturer has ZDDP-like additives so it is best to not drain that oil immediately after break-in. The break-in will continue to happen after the initial break-in. Same concept of a motor rebuild. You let the motor run for about 20 mins on first start-up and then use that oil for 500-1000 miles before changing it.
Hey I just got that same compressor, just wondering what kind of deal did you get on that I just bought mine yesterday on a deal and paid 599.99 before taxes. Haven't hooked mine up yet need the 240 plug lucky my Dad was an electrician in the Navy for over 20 years. Like the video thanks for sharing God Bless and have a good one.
