Free info for any passerby: This compressor fits a 2nd gen Ford explorer perfectly (must lay it flat). 1 person can safely unload this compressor in less than 3 minutes. Just keep pulling it out of the SUV until you feel that it wants to drop. Then slant it 45° againt your garage floor, and MAKE SURE THE PALLET BASE DOESN'T SLIP! Grab the top motor by it's ears and just pull it untill the compressor stands straight. It took me 30 seconds to unload the thing alone, and I'm not a bodybuilder :)
I think you're not far off. I have an 80 gallon model, and just screwed the pallet straight down to my wooden porch, and it stayed there like that working just fine for ten years. It still works, but I've moved and it's properly installed on a concrete floor nowadays.
Those "add-ons" that come at additional cost are actually essential components to the compressor and should be sold with it (i.e. vibration damper pads and anchor bolts). If you list it as an initial install kit, then it should come with a filter/dryer and a pressure regulator as well. The only time a customer DOESN'T need them is when he is replacing a compressor in an existing system, but still should replace the damper pads because they do degrade with time and use.
Thanks for the information I was able to install my compressor. Suggestion; for the 4 wire 220v part. Don't cap the return just don't connect it inside the plug, since it's only connected to the compressor. That way if another 220v tool needs to be used on the same outlet it can be used safely. Also it doesn't make sense to rewire a box for one item. Yes I saw the shielded cable, and yes it does make sense to do it that way if it's a dedicated system, but the video does not state this. So it would make more sense to use a plug, like in your none dedicated plug instructions. Thanks for the post though it helped. Thumbs up!
Ah yes im sure every home owner uses lockout tagout procedures lol. Its so if your family works in shifts and osha visits your house. 5 inch holes is also laughable. Im sure it will stay put in a hurricane. Best part was the guy drilling the holes clearly went clean through his 4" pad
Installed a new pump, second stage of the break-in procedure is as clear as mud. You think information as valuable as this would be explained in better detail than one paragraph in the installation manual.
@DonutGuard Also, to be fair, I did what somebody else on a forum did and connected the filter before the regulator. So the order is: Shut off valve, Hose, 3/8 connector, air filter, double male 3/8, air pressure regulator, 3/8 to 1/4 reducer, 1/4 connector, tool hose.
@campbellhausfeld Thanks for the reply, I actually figured a way to hook it up differently. I went to Harbor Freight Tools, and bought a hose (3 foot length, 3/8 threads) and went from the shut off valve to the regulator using a 3/8 size connector for easy removal, then with a 3/8 double male end, connected the filter to the regulator, and then to a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and a 1/4 connector directly to the hose. The regulator and filter were mounted to the wall with "Tornado" sheet rock hangers.
I did similar. Installed a 3/4" ball valve on the tank output and had a 4 foot long, 3/4" hydraulic hose made to go from the tank to a 3/4" drop ear 90º attached to the wall next to the wiring junction box. The drop ear 90 reduces to 1/2" and connects to my shop air distribution. The flexible hose and Bolting the drop ear elbow to a wall eliminates vibration in the hard piping with the compressor is running.
I bought this compressor, with the H7273 Standard pressure regulator and PA2121 Standard Air Filter, does the filter go in between the compressor and regulator?
I wonder if there's a way to install the regulator and shut off without having it stick out so far... that just looks like it's begging to get pulled on or bumped into.
Im confused on the power cord recommended in the video ( EC012902AV) When I Google it, it comes up as a 3 wire 14 AWG. Manual for this compressor recommends a 12 AWG under 75 feet
electrician wired the outside throw breaker with two black leads and one white. appears white is used for a ground. connects with wire nut in metal throw circuit breaker box from conduit to compressor in line. it also is screwed into the metal housing of throw breaker box, not sure if electrician knew what he was up to 11 years ago. these wires lead to pressure switch and he wired two hot leads to upper two connectors and connected white to switch base plate with green screw. Compressor worked for three days shutting off at 150psi. stopped working and elect motor will not restart. suspect capacitors burnt somehow. haven't looked at the two capacitors yet but I think something is definitely amiss. any ideas. Husky 60 gallon upright, 240 volt 2 phase. Unit was new 8 days ago. Oil was fine belt is good. wire connectors reflect power to all checked with meter. Any help would be appreciated.
Why don't you sell the complete package? Some people don't know what is needed and would rather have everything needed to get working than wasting hours doing research on what regulators, inlets. valves, pipes, gauges, hoses etc are needed to get air from your product to my tool. It's a pain in the ass. Have you ever heard of plug and play? Its the same concept.
CH sells a variety of compressors. Many are plug and play, as you requested. This size of compressor isn't a portable, "take it to a job site and go" type of unit. Most units of this type are "permanent installation" and integrated into a new or pre-existing shop air distribution system. For instance, mine is installed in my basement and hardwired to my electrical panel. CH doesn't know how far I intend to install it from my panel (length of wire to include) the make of my panel, and thus, the type of breaker to include. In my case, a pre-installed "whip" with plug would be superfluous and increase the retail cost of the unit, making it less price competitive against other similar units in the marketplace. I have 1/2" black iron pipe air distribution system from the install location to garage and back yard work area, so included regulator, ball valves, nipples, and QDs are just more extra stuff that would need to be rolled into the retail price, that would increase the price vs. competitors, and end up getting tossed in the junk drawer of most consumers of a product in this range.
The kit you're talking about would have to include everything anyone could possibly need meaning everyone would get something they don't really need l.
I have a 60 gallon upright campbell hausfeld piston compressor that won't build up pressure. I bought it new 5 - 8 years ago and only use it for light duties. Filling my vehicle tires and a bit of blow cleaning. It doesn't seem to be building up pressure as fast as it used to. Is there a fix or is this $600 piston compressor just scrap metal?
Step 1. If you can't unload compressor from truck without watching an instructional video return compressor to store, trade truck for Prius, and stay away from power tools.
2:50 Thoes work boots are not steel toe cap, which is the regulation, along with safety goggles at such an installation project. . . Cheers. from, del-boy.
Rian Faircloth A dryer cord "could" be used IF the wire gauge is correct for the amperage draw of the compressor; chances are, the dryer cord is not heavy enough for the compressor load. Typically, a larger compressor such as a 60-gallon or 80-gallon is "hard-wired" to the service line; meaning that the compressor would be wired directly to a cut-off switch terminal rather than just a wall plug. The switch would then be wired directly to a dedicated 220v (240v) breaker of proper amperage. You might ask, "what is the proper wire gauge?" Depending on the compressor amperage rating, you will normally see the wire gauge requirement at 10-gauge or 8-gauge for most 60-80 gallon compressors; also, most are 3-wire configurations: 2 hot wires and 1 ground. Hope this helps!
+Rian Faircloth A dryer cord should be just fine, the receptacle shown in the video is a NEMA6-20 , a 20Amp 240V grounded outlet with no neutral, most electric dryers use a NEMA14-30 a 30Amp 240V outlet with a neutral and a ground, so if you used a dryer cord you would leave the neutral disconnected.
Look for a range cord. They are a size bigger, I think. A range is designed for higher current draw than dryers. The older 3-wire cords are readily available, since only homes wired in the past few years have the newer 4-wire outlet.
