Gives me an idea. On the old FB Marketplace there is always people selling marble or granite offcuts. Sometimes they even give ‘em away. Dead flat and polished, good to go! See where I’m going with this 👌
One thing that may help is bolting the machine down to the table as well. You can see the planer raise slightly in the fast forward part of the video 5:58. Also I would place the blocks closer the the in and out feed bed of the planer to help keep the board from bending as it appeared to do slightly. Great Idea though, I may try it myself.
You have a keen eye. I noticed the same thing you have noticed when I watched the playback. I have also made the adjustments you describe here already and can confirm they work.
You have a Festool dust extractor back there and you didn’t spring for the extra $125 for the infeed- outfeed tables and free blades. Doesn’t make financial sense to me.
I have several Festool tools… including an orbital. Love them all. Also own the Dewalt 735X because I plane stock as long as five feet. Adjusted right and you’ll never get snipe.
Interesting video. For starters, I am amazed that he is not wearing any hearing protection. I have the same planer and it is VERY noisy...deafening actually. And to add to another persons posted comments, the table would definitely affect the accuracy of the measurement scale on the planer. For that reason, I prefer to use the actual bed on the planer and to avoid snipe by having a dedicated infeed and outfeed surface that is level with the bed of the planer. And, as is mentioned several times in the video...only take small depth of cut passes. Better to make 5 light passes with no snipe than to make 2 aggressive passes but risk snipe.
You are right. I need to be better about my ear plugs. I dont use the scale on the planer. I typically check thickness with a set of calipers. I can see where that wouldnt be for everyone though.
Dewalt must be run by idiot bean counter's. Why would you sell a planner without blades and the infeed, outfeed tables? Just greed I guess. I'm buying the grizzly with the helical cutter head for $840. This kind of cooperate greed will loose customers.
I watched an older gentleman (dude looked like he had been woodworking since the 50s) that actually used his hand lightly to do the same thing... I generally like to listen to people who are older and wiser =)
Great video thanks! I made the same custom feed table, but was surprised that the wood pieces simply won't cut once they go through with the rollers, even when set to the lowest possible height. Any idea why this might be? Did you encounter the same? Is it perhaps a built in safety feature with a sensor that detects there's something else there? I never considered this to be an issue, so odd and I've tried to figure out the logic behind it but nothing comes to mind
I did add wax to the sled I put under the planar, plus it is a formica material so it is really slick. THe only thing I can think of is if you are getting too much friction stopping the wood?
So I built the runner table like you have, made sure it was true but I still have snipe on the front part. Anything off the top of your head you can think of that would cause it?
A couple things can contribute to it. make sure the board isnt bowed up at the ends. Also, sneak up on the first cut. My first two passes may not actually cut, but the rollers will push it through. Make sure your cuts are thin. I usually go 1/64 at a time, I never go more than 1/32. Hope this helps
My older Ryobi planer will snipe on both ends of a boards if the boards are not supported well and are not level going into the planer or exiting the planer. I use hardwoods 95% of the time in my shop. I like to take very light initial cuts until all the rough saw marks are gone. To reduce or eliminate the snipe, I keep slight upwards pressure on my boards and they will generally come out without snipe or will have a very minimal amount of snipe. Just like as shown in this video. For any planer at a price point less than $1K, I’ve just come to expect it will snipe a board. Cheers! Whipple
Hi. Very well presentation. I have the same thing and I always get some wood chips in my in feed table. In addition, I have also hooked it up to a Rigid 5 gallon vacuum. How come you do not get any wood chips. Please advise what I am doing wrong. Thanks.
For planers, jointers, etc you need to move large volume of air for dust collection. Not the same as power. A vacuum can be powerful but not move large volumes of air. I use the harbor freight dust collector. Less than $300
"Man-Glitter" That's one of my new favorite terms in woodworking... I have that same model planer, but because of limited space in my garage, er shop, I wasn't able to use it the first couple of years after I bought it. I got the two tables with my unit and, in your opinion, would I need to build this type of sled once I get a space where I can actually use it?
honestly it depends. I mostly plane long boards over 6 ft long so snipe could be an issue. If you typically plane shorter boards you could be alright. Try with the set up you already have. If you find that you want improvement, then try an upgrade similar to what I have shown.
I had a Ryobi planer that came with infeed/ outfeed tables. They sucked and snipe was a huge problem. But I watched a video from someone else (Can't reaclall who) installing and dialling in the one's for the 735 when I was considering the upgrade. I decided to make the gamble and purchase them. They are much better quality and fully adjustable. I have zero snipe on piieces under one metre. I agree your idea is a great solution, however I don't have the space to store or use it. I'm just saying I have had good results from the dewalt infeed/ outfeed tables without any issues. :)
I'll try the wood "sled or bed" "insert" because the snipe WITH the infeed /outfeed extensions has been the biggest problem with this otherwise very good planner.
I would be skeptical. A planer needs precision. The 735 might be considered expensive for a hobbyist, it is inexpensive as far as planers go. If you can get it for $150 or less I would say go for it, but when a new one is around $500 its not worth it unless you are getting a screaming good deal.
The 735 (without tables or extra knives) are reg. $900.00 here in eastern Can. but on sale for another few days @ $650.00. Think I'll take the plunge but I wish the knives were reversible. Thanks for the great bed idea.@@BingWoodworking
No I dont. But I can tell you I used a couple 3/4 inch cuts of plywood, a 1/2 inch ply and then a small shim (paint stick) to make it level with the planer. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Funny, when I got mine, the "X" model (with the infeed/outfeed and an extra set of knives) was on sale and was cheaper than the model without. I watched it go on sale this way over the last year ona regular basis until I finally bit.
I agree! I was watching it also. By the time I felt comfortable spending the money the deal was gone. But like I said in this video, now I am glad. The infeed outfeed tables are fine for small pieces, but I mostly make tables using long boards and get snipe unless I use this set up.
@@BingWoodworking interesting. I had built a similar table for my previous planer (Delta lunchbox planer from the early 90’s) which sniped regardless. I just finished a project with 6 foot boards on the Dewalt and not a lick of snipe with the stock tables. I was suitably impressed.
You could but you would need a way to stabilize it. Perhaps a clamping jig or something like that. Or several at the same time. Could be tricky so be very careful.
I dont think I have had that issue. Try this... I prefer to use screws or bolts to hold down the entire planer to my work surface or work tables. It can tend to move if I dont. Try doing that and see if it lessens the vibration and potential movement of your handle.
I bolted it down but the handle still vibrates and moves about the same. I can hold the handle without effort but it still moves in anti-clockwise rotation if I don't. It still planes great.
There is a small amount of slack in the handle before it actually starts moving the planer heads. If it only moves in the slack then I wouldnt worry about it. If it actually moves the planer I would start looking into fixing that somehow. I dont have any experience with it sorry.@@imanutnur7
I had my 735 for 3 days. Took it back. Worst snipe I've ever had on a planer, and I've been using shop planers since my first one (Makita 10" ) back in 1980, regardless how I fed the material. This machine also ate blades. Less than 10 minutes planing clean pine 2x8's and the blades were rendered unusable and that was while taking less than 1/16" on a pass, about 1/2 turn on the handle. Switch is in a terrible location, nothing to keep a board from hitting it and turning the machine off when sliding a board across the top and positioning it to refeed it. Then there is the chip exiting the machine at 200+ mph. There needs to be a way to disconnect the blower to be able to just have the chips drop into a receptacle. And lastly, as if this wasn't enough, the power cord is on the wrong side of the machine, creating a tripping hazard unless you do some magical rerouting. Back to using my 25 year old Ryobi AP13 which still performs remarkedly well after a million miles of use.
Sounds like your lumber was twisted or bowed keeping the bottom from laying flat. Did you pay an arm and a leg at the big orange store? If you have dust collection system or a shopvac hooked up, you can remove the impeller. This mod will also reduce the planer's power requirement.
😂 that was hilarious! Sounds like you're either full of it or have no idea what you're doing! I love the blower because I don't need a vac set-up fit it. Just put a 4 inch hose into a catch bag and you're set. It's not hard.