These are amazing blades. Folks with plastic saws, or saws with lots of plastic in the chip path need to keep an eye on where chips collect. They can pile up in guards on some saws and you'll get that smell of melting plastic, or worse. When used on handheld saws, be prepared for hot chips. On left blade saws in particular, they will pepper you and will always find even the most microscopic path to your skin. Thankfully they are really thin and cool down fast after a short sizzle....... I highly recommend safety glasses AND a face shield with a left blade hand held saw. The chips are rough on the eyeballs.
Awesome video explanation. Just used the cermet 2 blade on my 7-1/4 20v miter saw last night to cut 43 mil/18 gauge steel studs and track. Worked great. I did mask my saw off with heavy painters tape to protect the hot chips from burning into the plastic clearance insert (Kind of want my tools to stay nice before I sell them and upgrade). Also put a chip/shavings blocker at the back near the dust shoot to prevent steel from being trapped in the dust shoot (could rust if you take it outside and exposed to moisture). No worries about the saw sucking in metal shavings as the chips are large and not airborne. Great blade.
I love this blade. I just started using it in my welding shop and it cuts perfect 45s for railings. Compared to a traditional bandsaw there is no comparison. Absolutely amazing!
Thanks for sharing! Yes, this is great for railings. Much faster than using the band saw. I know exactly what you're talking about. Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews will this work on a harbor freight 5200rpm, 7 1/4 Warrior miter? I'll be cutting 1/8 square tubing and 1/8 angle for weekend diy welding projects🧑🏭 thanks
This video clarifies, for me, a cheap way to the precisely cut metal profile at various angles. Thank you!!! My thoughts have been turned away from the band saws because I already have a miter saw.
I've been using diablo steel blades for years now, ever since they were introduced, and can attest to the quality and ease of cutting metal cleanly. I've cut through 1"×3" steel bar with a very used one, and still produced a clean cut.
Thank you for the great review. I have looking for this exacy demonstration. I own a 7 1/4 inch Ryobi miter saw that I've wanted to try this on. Keep up the great work.
Yes, they're amazing. I tried the less expensive 36** teeth ones and they worked fine as well to cut steel tubing and angles; but dulled quite quickly (roughly after 30-50 cuts). However, I just ground the tip of the carbide teeth on the bench wheel grinder and they cut again as new. I don't know how many more cycles I will be able to do this trick myself though. **Edit: I originally wrote 22 teeth. My bad! I hope nobody tried to cut steel with the wood blade
I've read reviews on these on the home depots page, people complaining that after 50 cuts it gets dull. Most people don't know this but you can take it to a saw filing shop to be resharpen and running like new for 12ish Canadian Pesos. I help out at my father in laws shop and see these guys come in. Going to buy one today and give them a shot see how they do.
id like to see a comparison between these and the 8" saws and blades designed to cut steel, at 50$ a pop i feel these will add up quickly and not cut nearly as much as the 8" milwuakee, evo, or slugger saws that have more torque less speed and larger blades... sure theyre great if youre only gonna use one or two blades worth in your whole career but if you see yourself cutting steel even on a monthly basis probably more cost effective to buy a steel cutting saw, or plasma cutter if cut quality isnt top priority
I'd like to hear any comments on longevity from these blades. I forked out good money for one of these blades advertised for high RPM and ferrous material but got through maybe 20 slices of thin gauge steel tube, then I was back to finish the job with my 5" angle grinder and $2 cutoff wheels. IMO these blades are a very expensive way to cut steel.
I have used these and other blades quite often over the past few years. If you want any longevity out of them you need to follow a few rules. Above all don't allow any metal workers/welders to use it. Even "Pro" Carpenters usually don't know how to use them right but some do. I use the Skilsaw metal saw. It's the best by far. I also use kreg saw guide for keeping the cuts straight. No stack cuts, one at a time with the blade fully extended and try not to cut alongside heat treated metal. Hook the angle iron or flat bar with your left toe and bend over using your left hand to position the guide and hold your material. Place saw just on edge of guide and let it get up to full speed. Begin your cut slowly holding saw with right hand. It will cut clean, fast and last for a bit this way because the material isn't pinching the blade and putting heat/stress on the teeth. Again don't let welders touch it.
@@billnchris1 I don't know what to say, gentle welder? You would have to buy me dinner first ( I'm not a cheap date). Then we would go from there... But probably no
Hi, regarding the longevity of the blade, I also got 1 of these diablo blades and mine didnt last very long at all. Was cutting 25mm square tube mild steel, got through 25-30 cuts and now the blade is useless, no longer cuts through anything anymore. Im using an Evolution Rage 4 cold saw with 4500 rpm, well under the 5800rpm on the blade. Didnt work for me, i'm back to using the angle grinder aswell !!
May I ask if a regular Circular saw 7 1/4" has enough rpms to run the steel demon through any steel? I have used the the steel demon with a Milawaukee Fuel cordless and it worked fine. But when I tried with a corded saw it didn't cut. The blade could have worn out on the stainless is why I ask.
I have ben using these steel cutting blades for years. I have one in the table saw cutting plate and round bar with ease, portable work in a worm drive. It has changed my approach to metal work it will cut 6 inches of 1 inch plate in about 15 seconds. The price is slowly coming down.
Yep, I have a Bosch blade in my 7 1/4" craftsman miter I have been using for years (maybe 10). Bought them both at Sears, the blade was almost $40 back then.
these work great and what a time saver. 5 seconds to cut a piece vs 3-5 min with the porta band.. MAKE SURE that your work is secured flat and will not bind the blade.. you will knock the teeth off or chip them badly..
So are you saying that you can use these blades on a standard mitre saw that spins at 3200 RPM to cut steel as opposed to a cold cut saw that spins at less than 100 RPM?
Cold cut saws spin more than 100 RPM, but I get what you're saying. Yes, these blades have a max rating of 5,800 RPM. They were designed for circular saws to cut steel on construction sites. Most miter saws spin less than 5,800 RPM, so I've found that it works very well for cutting small pieces with our battery powered miter.
@@Shoptoolreviews Actually usually less than that. I have a cold saw that turns at 50rpm but either way, this is very interesting. Thanks for the review.
@@unpopular_mechanics I've been wondering the same thing now that I've heard of guys cutting with standard wood chop saws. Max on cold cutting that I've seen is equivalent to 300rpm and that's with a smaller blade(as these are usually measured in surface feet/min which would put a 12, 14, or 16" in the range your talking about). I've cut aluminum for years on the chop saw but steel... think I'll wait for more data. This certainly hasn't become an industry standard and there's most likely a reason for that.
@@Shoptoolreviews the old school industrial cold cut saws were REALLY low rpm like he said. Modern cold cut saw are what you're thinking. Seems he's a couple generations behind the technology. We're all here to learn.
Modern cold cut saws in this range spin at 1300-1750 rpm. Which meant you had to get or modify a saw with reduced RPM. So, after buying 2 of these saws in this range, they come out with these blades....... ARGH! Could be why Milwaukee discontinued their cold cut chop saw.
@@Shoptoolreviews I know you said you got hundreds of cuts but that's probably pretty small stuff, and with a mixture of different metals I'm assuming? Just from your experience, how many cuts would you guess I'd get on like 2" x 2" x 1/4" or 3/8" angle? Thanks
@@smallblockchevy1022 I bought a 7 1/4 diablo blade that cost me almost 40 bucks , installed it on a 36 volt makita circular saw and was able to cut only 13 pcs 2x2x1/8 tubulars and it wouldn't cut anymore after that , I was very disappointed . Still got all it's teeth . Threw it away and never bought another one
Thanks for the great video! I'm looking at this blade to use on both steel & aluminum. I have 1/8" thick x 5" E-Track used for trailer tie downs which is steel. As for the aluminum, I have L-Track which is 1/4" thick x 1-1/4". What are your thoughts of using this for these materials? Thanks again.....👍😊
Not many people know that the diablo blades are rated for 1800max rpm and the circular saw are running much much faster than that. The Diablo blades won’t last long. They will work ,but not very long.. just keep that in mind..
NOT ENTIRELY CORRECT! It depends on which blade size as to the max RPM. This 7-1/4" that I'm reviewing is rated for 5800 RPM, which is why they can be used in circular saws and this miter saw. What you're probably thinking of are the larger 12" and 14" wheels that do have a max RPM of 1800. And, the problem is not longevity only, it's also safety, which I also cover in that video. If you spin an 1800 RPM blade to 3600 RPM in a typical abrasive chop saw, these carbide will become flying HOT debris, which could ruin someone's day. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm kind of skeptical on whether you really need to buy that one. Most saw blades are coming out with carbide. Carbide is carbide, it's king of the metal to cut metal, if you want harder now you're looking at ceramic, and diamond.
I'll let you determine this for cutting metal. I understand that carbide is carbide, but the bonding process to the blade differs a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. Thanks for watching.
My dewalt compound miter saw takes 12in blades and the only diablo demon blade in 12 is max 1,800 RPMs and I believe my miter saw cuts at 3,500. so what is going to happen if I use it?
BE CAREFUL!! The 12" Steel Demon is only supposed to spin 1,800 RPM (it's printed right on the blade), and the Ridgid 12" miter turns 3,850 RPM. That's more than double the correct speed. Be glad you don't have carbide blade tips embedded in your skin. I make this point in the video at least a couple of times. Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews I used the 7 1/4" steel demon first and it was great in my Skilsaw. Because it was thin steel siding I assumed the 12" would work the same. As you pointed out it doesn't. Curious what other guys are using to cut various miters in wide metal siding quickly and cleanly. This siding also has a very large profile. Ended up buying a Makita LS1019 as it spins 3200 and has a 12" cut* and the 10" steel demon is 3000 so close enough we will see how it works.
Of course blades can cut backwards. They still have sharp edges. But its a terrible idea. The tips can be pulled right off and end up in your eye. But a non ferrous metal cutting blade can cut plastics better than other non plastic blades when turned backwards., safely. The teeth are not welded on. They’re brazed on.
My circ saw goes 6300 rpm (no load). My project only involves cutting a 30” length of 1/16th stainless steel sheet stock. Is this a concern?? Seems I should be okay..., but not sure..
@@vincentlabrecque2275 just cause its made to not fling the carbines off at high rpm doesn't make them good for your saw. Metal cutting saws are lower rpm and high torque because your chunking out the metal not really cutting. This is probably fine for like thin metal roof stuff but shouldn't be cutting 1/8th think angle with it. Just cause you can don't mean you should hahaha.
@@yermoffroad you may be right, but time will tell. After many months, I have yet to observe any clue that would indicate improper wear or usage. My Diablo blades are rated Max RPM: 5 800, and my miter saw revolves in the 4k RPM
If you're talking about the 7-1/4", you should be ok. Max RPM is 5,800 on the blade. The larger the blade, the less RPM is recommended. The Max RPM is printed on the blade and also in the specifications on their site. Thanks for watching.
yeah I use them on my miter saw and ON MY TABLE SAW tu cut square tube on the large side... no problem at all! just do not force it, do not make suddenly movements... still do not see any table saw yet on youtube.
Bought one. Put it on backwards. Cut a 1/4 bar and ruined it. Bought another one, put it on right.... Cut a bunch a stuff and it's still sharp. Who knew? 30 dollar lesson won't be forgotten.
I already have about 30 cuts in C3 4.1 channel. Thats 3" of 3/16 with 1/4" sides. Most of the cuts were 45 miters so thats even more cut. Still cuts like new.
the first time I used one to cut up a farm plow.. I cut 2in bar stock like it was plywood.. make sure your work does not pinch or bind the blade or you will damage the teeth..
Everyone says a legit wood miter saw shouldnt be used with this blade blah blah. Well i am moving and plan to get a sliding dual bevel saw but. I have an old makita chop saw that needs a new cord. A new cord and a steel demon will work for me. I am talking about maybe. 1-2 cuts of thinnner metal. I dont plan on cuttin metal all that much and i will keep an eye out for blade speed but its looking good right now
Shop Tool Reviews yep it was Intimidating because the blade must have been 24” or larger as I recall. I’m telling my age here)). I never liked using it. It didn’t seem logical but it cut steel every day. Stay safe. Thanks for sharing.
It's a cool blade for cutting plate steel, but how does it perform on wood. If it cuts wood very well, bamboo and hard engineered flooring and plate steel, why not set up your miter saw for all processes without having to change blades?
@ydeng1987 what he is asking is if it cuts wood and other materials like a regular blade why not use it for all materials so you dont have to change the blade just to cut metal. That was you can cut metal with it and go straight to wood without a blade change.
I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, so I'll just translate with the definition which explains is pretty well. A cermet is a composite material composed of ceramic (cer) and metal (met) materials. ... Cermets are used instead of tungsten carbide in saws and other brazed tools due to their superior wear and corrosion properties.
Thanks for this demo, I'm intrigued. I saw these at Home Depot but wondered if they were for real. Let's face it ,"Truth in advertising" isn't nearly what it once was! So...... what about compound cuts on that miter box or just a 90° cut with a beveled edge of any degree? Does the blade stay true or does it flex?
It does stay pretty true, even when cutting angles or miters, especially cutting aluminum or thinner metals. At the same time, it is somewhat of a thinner kerf, so it will flex if you 'push' it.
Carbide and Cermet are really changing the game when it comes to cutting steel with steel blades. I don't know that I explain how they're defying physics, but I know by experience that it works, and safely.
One word, speed. Basically, I think they finally realized that what was working with high speed tooling in CNC could be translated to saws too. Between the new carbides and tooth geometry, and speed, they can carry almost all of the heat away in the chips. And unlike a lathe tool, each cutting edge is only in contact with the work for less than 1/2 of one percent of the time, depending on thickness of course. They are amazing. I threw one of these in a cordless Makita rear handle saw and walked through 1/8 in plate like it was a sheet of plywood. Still, you don't want to force the saw or go too slow either. You want your chips thin and blue/purple. Time will tell on longevity in different types of stock. I've made a few hundred cuts in 1in square tubing and it's still like new. I make it a point to avoid cutting on the flats as much as possible.
I typically use a fingernail file, but mine were all used up. lol. A file, sandpaper, carbide burr, stone, whatever is nearby. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Stan, the nail file was tongue-in-cheek comment. Even though metalcraft may not be my trade, I've been around fabrication (mainly automotive) my entire 40+ years on this earth. Albeit, I don't claim to know everything, just a lot of nothing. ;)
I was skepticle of a 20 volt circular saw. But I have several B&D 20 volt batteries and the drill Works great ru-vid.comUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . I saw the 4 stars and some glowing reviews so decided to purchase this saw. Well, leave your money in your pocket and run a cord because this little saw won't cut
Total mistake on our part to not include that in the video, it was definitely supposed to be there. We cut backwards, by mistake, and ruined the blade. We posted it on social media. FYI, we're not fans of clickbait, so we understand your frustration. Again, we apologize.
I can't ducking believe this shot I just bought a peace of shot Evolution so that I could cut metal I would much rather gotten an accurate miter saw over that wobbly peace of shit ! Only one ducking week ago !!!
