Diagnosing a Bad GE Board - Part 1: Fan Motors

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Hi everyone!
If this video saved you from having to call a service technician to repair your refrigerator, please consider becoming making a donation to my channel here:
www.paypal.com...
It is greatly appreciated and helps to provide more videos!
Also, If you haven't already done so, please be sure to subscribe to my channel so you can be notified of new videos on how to fix your GE Side-by-Side refrigerator.
This video will be part 1 of a multi-part video series focusing in on how to diagnosing a failed GE control board when you have problems with either of your fan motors not running.
Most of the GE side by side refrigerators are going to use either a WR55X10942, WR55X10942P, or some very close variant of this board.
GE Control Board WR55x10942
amzn.to/3JpQyQe
WR60X10185: (4 wire with no sensor attached)
OEM GE Part: amzn.to/3KwDFVR
Cheaper Aftermarket Replacement: amzn.to/3uoc3MW
WR60x10074 (4 wire with thermostat attached)
OEM GE Part: amzn.to/3H6LcbM
Cheaper Aftermarket Replacement: amzn.to/377ePxp
If you have not found it already, you should have a wiring diagram tucked in to the temperature control box in the upper refrigerator section. This can be accessed by removing the two screws with a 1/4in nut driver.
As it relates to the fans, common symptoms of a failed control board include:
- Fans that will not run
- Fans that pulse and will not maintain consistent speeds
- Burned resistors on the main control board
- No response from any of the components other than the lights inside the refrigerator
Time Marks:
0:26sec - Location of control board
0:54sec - Unplug from power warning
1:10sec - Testing supply voltage to control board
2:00sec - How to turn on fan motors for testing - Entering Linear Protection Mode
2:22sec - J2 Plug identification and pin out order
3:03sec - Testing supply voltage of 12-14vdc to fan motors
4:48sec - Testing supply voltage to the fan motors
5:25sec - Testing supply voltage to the condenser motor
5:11sec - Unplug refrigerator from power and J2 plug removal
6:30sec - Testing fan motor circuits
7:28sec - J2 wire identification
7:44sec - Visual inspection of burned resistors
8:15sec - Wiring diagram and wire function for a 4-wire WR60x10185 evaporator fan motor
9:47sec - PWM Fan motor tachometer test (Blue Wire) Hz/Frequencty Test *Pulse WIDTH Modulation* Whoops.
11:10sec - Close Up of J2 connector and Recap
12:36sec - Please subscribe! :)

Опубликовано:

29 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 581

@GraceAppliance 2 года назад

Hi Everybody, Welcome! If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos. Thanks so much! Andy

@davidfagan1276 6 лет назад

Hi Andy, I was a full time Appliance Service Tech, and have since moved on to Data Center Support, but did retain a small number of customers. One thing that is very difficult for me is trying to keep up with the latest and greatest appliance technologies. Unless you are factory authorized, you are just very limited in that category. What you are doing is much appreciated by folks like me. I left the business full time about 18 years ago, just when variable speed fan motors were coming out, and never really did figure out how they worked. You explained it in a way that was easily understood. Thanks for your help

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Thanks so much for the kind words and am so glad the information is helpful! Things are getting more and more complex every day and yet we complain that things don't last as long as they should. Being a able to preheat your oven from the store, a 2nd washing machine where the pedistal once was, a giant $1000 iPad on my fridge door for my 2 year old to break, no thanks! Sheesh!

@juan42ism 5 лет назад

I'm an automobile tech and with your help I was able to fix my refrigerator thank you for your help :)

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Nice work Juan! I'm glad to have helped in a small way. Stay in touch.

@wcjcnc 4 года назад

My GE side by side stopped working. The compressor was hot. I figured the thermal protector had shut it off. I cleaned the dust and dust bunnies off the condenser cage and put a fan blowing onto the back of the fridge. This got the fridge to start working again but I knew something was wrong. Using your video I started diagnosing the circuit board. I had power going to the evaporator fan but it wasn’t working. So I knew I had to replace the evaporator fan. I purchased one at a local appliance store and installed it. My fridge works great again. THANK YOU!!!!

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

wcjcnc you’re most welcome! Great work. Stay in touch. Andy

@youcandoitrv4198 Год назад

Beat control board diagnostics video I’ve seen so far. Great camera position to see the probe contact points. The rest of these jokers are not teachers who show diagnostics without seeing the probe contact the wire terminals. You’re legit! You care that there is understanding Thank you

@CarlCHRISTENSON 4 года назад

That was exactly what I needed. I am now sure what I have to replace and saved a bunch of $$$. Thanks A LOT!

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

Awesome! You’re welcome. Stay in touch.

@VentureAretecom 2 года назад

Many Thanks to Andy and Grace Appliance for their 8 Videos on Diagnosing The GE Refrigerator Control Board. ... Thanks so much for these 8 excellent videos. They clearly showed me how to access the needed places so I could conduct successful testing. These are great!!! Signed Henry Gurr

@Nclght 5 лет назад

Great video... two small points with regards to terminology " linear protection," is actually 'liner protection." in other words, the evap fan runs once doors are open for a period of time (there's actually two timers) to protect the fridge liner from heat from the lamp as well as from condensation . And pwm is" pulse width modulation " as it's not modulating the wave, as a square wave will still be a square wave, but it is modulating the width of the wave. Both are small points but their names make it easier to understand what they are, in fact, doing. However" linear protection " is certainly something people need to prevent them from purchasing LG Fridges that feature their god awful linear compressors. 🙂 Regardless, a fantastic explanation of this board..

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Great info! Thank you for that. The PWM, I caught myself after the upload, but ehhh that’s RU-vid I guess. I miss being able to add annotations to the video after. Ha! Liner Protection! That makes a ton of sense! I’ve seen some built in fridges with failed door switches that ended up melting the lining due to this exact issue. Thanks for the kind words and great info. Stay in touch. Andy

@Nclght 5 лет назад

@@GraceApplianceI've worked on countless of these things yet I still have to visit service manuals and tech sheets from time to time, your video and visual representation has helped cement some of that info. Also, although I prefer voltage tests over resistance tests any day of the week and twice on Sundays , your fan motor resistance test suggesion from the board is something I never tried but is now a part of my arsenal! Always learning! New subscriber!

@gibson7654 6 месяцев назад

Hi. Great video. Thank you for putting it together. At this test at 6:00, I am getting 11V. On the next test, I am getting 1200 ohms. Does that mean the control board is bad?

@TheRoostking 5 лет назад

Great Video. The trouble I am having is the front display panel is not working, and neither is the ice/water dispenser. Any suggestions?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

TheRoostking hey! If you haven’t watched it yet, check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ViFpwH6_WrM.html Also, there is a troublemaking connection plug behind the kick panel near the freezer door hinge. This tends to get corroded and should start there. Plug this in an unplug it about 10x and see if that improves things. If so, you might consider removing the plug and hardwiring it by soldering the wires together. Let me know what you find. Thanks!

@philc.688 5 лет назад

Andy, I wanted to make one correction to your video. PWM is "Pulse WIDTH Modulation", not WAVE. Thanks for your informative video. I have had an issue with two new OEM main boards failing to supply the pwm signal voltage across J2-4 to J2-3 . Each board failed after a week of use. I bought a new board because I was seeing something flaky going on with the compressor and evap fans shutting down for a long period and not starting up when the freezer temp goes above 15 degrees F. The Evap and Freezer thermistors appear to have the correct resistance, so I do not believe they are the issue. However two new OEM boards failed with no signal voltage after a week or so use of each board. The original board which was replaced by an appliance repair tech 4 years ago, still works and runs the evap and condenser fans. I had replaced the evap fan 7 months ago, as it failed open circuit. I am ordering another evap fan to try as it seems to be the only suspect that might cause two new boards to fail. Unless there is a major defect in the two GE OEM boards that just failed on me.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hey Phil, Thanks for the correction. I caught it after the fact, but that's life I guess. Lol I agree, it sound like a failed evap fan motor which when bad will cause the the boards to fail in short order. Specifically, it will often cause the 2 larger capacitors on the board to turn brown or black. The PWM signal is sent by the fan itself, so if you are not getting that frequency response (and the fan is turning) that points toward the fan. I'd replace the evap fan with the new board (if needed). Andy

@muzaffaramirza12 5 лет назад

Thank you so much Andy for your detailed video. I am just trying to understand on J2 moler contactor you put your black lead on white wire and red lead on red wires I am trying to understand and wanted to confirm my understanding, it will show the voltage is being supplied between 12v to 14v for both evap & cond fan motor correct? Because later you tested evap & cond fan separately from white to yellow/black and yellow. So white and red should show between 12 to 14v DC for both fans and then separately white to yellow/black and white to yellow should be 12 to 14v DC as well. Did I understand correctly? By the way where did you get that kind of small probes for your meter or if you did, how did you make them? Mine is very thick and regular looking and I do not want to shove that into the molar connector. Also you showed how to test power coming to the board can you please tell me what do you call those moler connectors? Are there any #s that indicates that those are power supply connectors?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi, you’re welcome and thanks for watching. You are correct, the red and white wires are the supply voltage for both fans which is then distributed to each fan motor as determined by the board. Here is a follow up video after having replaced the board and will show you correct voltages as I’m testing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jX2AnQL3yi4.html As for the questions about the plugs, the extent of my knowledge about the plugs is that they are made by a company called TE Connectivity. At least the white plugs are and imagine they all are. They are very similar to Molex brand connections, but different in measurement. Also, the pins inside the connector are quite different between these two brands. Looking on mouser.com will get you in the right ballpark for the needed part numbers. Another thing to note is that the lower 1/2 of the board is going to have A/C voltage (120vac) and the upper portion of the board deals only with DC voltages (13vdc and less). To my knowledge, There are no component level schematics for this board. Only pin out diagrams. So, the majority of what I know has been through what’s available via tech sheets and trial and error....much error. Haha

@jonleone777 9 месяцев назад

Hello. Great vid. My unit wasnt cooling in both fridge or freszer. There was quite a bit of ice on condenser unit and i noticed my evap fan was very quiet and barely blowing any air. I checked the defrost heater by jumping j11 and j9. The heat turned on and seems to be fine. I tested the control board with the help of this video. All tested fine, power in, power out. When i did the ohm test for the motors the ohm test for the evap fan was only .730 ohms . This leads me to believe the evap fan is bad and need to be changed. Please let me know if im on the right track. Thanks

@EhsanAmini 9 месяцев назад

Thanks a zillion for this tremendously helpful video. I have a question regarding an evaporator fan of a top-freezer GE Profile. Ever since I replaced the fan, it runs nonstop. It's constantly on and doesn't shut off or cycle at all. The freezer temperature has already dropped below -12°F and going. According to the manual, the freezer temperature should range between -6°F and 6°F. Also when I open the freezer door, the fan speed doesn't change (as I've heard it should when the freezer door opens.) I'd appreciate any tips. I've set the temperature to the recommended 0°F several times using the front display panel, but after several hours, it's still going down. The original fan didn't have a sensor, but the new one does, and I connected it with the metal clasp to the evaporator. My suspicion is faulty sensors or the board, but I'm not sure how to test for that. Do these fridges have a diagnostics mode that can be activated?

@abunase2000 5 лет назад

hai, thank you for very good and usefull informative video. my refigerater evaperater fan is not working.as per your video i followe dby tested all voltage level of pin j2..red wire i found 12 v but yellow to eveaperator wire is showing only 5V..can u suggest me any solution?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hey! Thnaks for the kind words. I'm sorry to hear you're having issues with your fridge. Check out this video. It explains that the voltages will vary based on what speed the evelorator fan should be running as it's a variable speed fan motor. See if when you jump it if it speeds up to full speed and let me know what you find. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PwsoOpUbxvk.html

@JOSEGARCIA-ng2kk 6 лет назад

thanks for your video great help .because of this video have save big money thanks

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Awesome Jose! I'm so glad I could help.

@kansasnutt 2 года назад

Great video… Thanks, my board is on the bench now and puts out 13.5 V but will not like display when Inside fridge… I also noticed my 400 V caps Only have 180 V on them… Is this normal? I plan on loading down to 13 V with a 10 ohm resistor to try and put the supply under load

@generessler6282 Год назад

Super excellent! Really clear and methodical and complete. Thank you so much. Minor tip: I think PWM is pulse _width_ modulation.

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi mr Andy this is silly i should have told you about my problems with the actual refrigerator right from the beginning it has all started when i noticed the change in the way I was running ;the temperature on my refrigerator rose from 3 up to 7 and right after that I mean after a while same thing happened to the freezer temperature on the control panel and some of my stuff in the refrigerator had frozen so I turned off my fridge and took them all out of fridge to clean out my fridge, it took me a quite a while before I could manage to put my stuff back in the fridge and turn it back on again; the temperature on freezer dropped back down to number3 but not on the refrigerator; remained at 7and I couldn’t change it because i wouldn’t have moved by pressing it, still do you think there was any fault with the control board?

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Sorry an error on my part, i want to put it right, in my text i should have written i noticed the change in the way it was running.........

@Volt_Appliance_Reapir Год назад

Where did you buy your meter test leads? Did you rig them up? I always have a hard time shoving my leads in DC wire harness 😅.

@georgekolton9059 5 лет назад

What are the chances of having the original mother board go bad, and then to have 2 new replacement mother boards in a row being defective in exactly the same way?... each with fridge and freezer slowly losing cooling power at about 5 or 6 weeks after replacement? Could there be a short somewhere or something else like that? Repair guy is coming out for the 4th time now. Getting a little ridiculous I think.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

George Kolton 0% I’d think. It sounds like it’s misdiagnosed. Have you noticed any ice build up on the back wall inside the freezer? A failing defrost sensor can cause this kind of symptom. Either way, I’d think it’s time to ask for a refund so you can get a 2nd opinion. Maybe direct him to my channel?! ;) Uggg, what a nightmare.

@georgekolton9059 4 года назад

@@GraceAppliance Hi there! Thanks for your reply. Yes, I did notice some ice/frost build up back there. The same repairman is back at this moment. I will pass along your suggestion. Thanks again.

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

This video: Testing and Replacing a GE Defrost Sensor - WR55x10025 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CG-2FnQ43Hs.html Shows what’s involved with testing and replacing a failed defrost sensor. If it would run as expected for that length of time, I will assume the heater is still good. You’d notice much sooner (days) if the heater had failed. This leaves only the control board and high limit thermal limiter (rare to fail) and the defrost sensor. All signs point toward the defrost sensor based on the symptoms and the fact that the board has been replaced. Thanks! Andy

@burrowsandco 5 лет назад

Great video!

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Burrows & Co. thanks!

@unioncityhiller 5 лет назад

Hi Andy......do you think I might also have a problem with the defrost bimetal thermostat ? (the part that has 2 brown wires connected to it and it’s sealed in a clear plastic pouch, it’s wired in parallel with the temp sensor, sitting on top of the evaporator coil.)

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

I don't based on your previous comments. As I recall, you got a fairly low resistance which is good. It should read roughly .03 ohm.

@anatmargo5802 Год назад

Electricity was lost in my area after that the refrigerator does not turn on. The scoreboard, where the temperature is regulated, does not shine. 10 months ago there was such a situation. then the refrigerator turned on. the scoreboard is located on the front left door of the GE refrigerator. Any ideas on what it might be or what I should check? thanks.

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi mr Andy it’s me again Majid why did you want me to have an old control board back!? And there is something else; is it alright if I put my refrigerator on timer until an engineer comes to fix it?

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi sorry I forgot to say instead of running it constantly nonstop can i keep it on a timer?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Majid Hossini hi Majid, My point in saying that about the control board is that, if he replaced it with a new control board and you paid for that, the old board is not his to take with him. That is your control board and may still be good. Especially since you’re still having issues with the fridge after he has said to have repaired it. Based on the symptoms you describe though, it certainly can be a bad fan motor causing higher than normal temperatures. Have you verified that both fans are running? Inside the freezer and behind the fridge? Also, check your condenser coils that they are not covered in heavy dust which will also cause this symptom.

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi, mr Andy I have cleaned every inch of it, everything seems to be working satisfactorily in order except for that evaporator fan motor or may be defrosting system, but then again I am not you or anybody else ( an engineer)for that matter, I wish was, i couldn’t say i am 100 percent sure, just the pure speculation and educated guessing.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

@@majidhossini676 thank you Majid! So, in order to diagnose it further you would need to remove the back inside wall of the freezer. This exposes your evaporator coils to look got frost and evaporator fan to verify if it is spinning. You'd also need a multi meter in order to perform ohm resistance tests as well as test for voltage to the fan and defrost heater. If you aren't comfortable with this peice, it's definately recommended to hire a technician to perform the repair which is always better than simply guessing at the correct part of course. Or, if you are comfortable with the disassembly and testing I can certainly do my best to walk you through it. The coils however, should have only a light coating of frost on them and not heavy frost or ice build up which would indicate a defrost issue. Let me know and I'm glad to help in any way I can. Thanks!

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi again mr Andy sorry,i can’t do that since i have no experience nor qualification or new parts for replacement for it even so I am very at fixing almost everything, with regard to that i have fixed my sister’s cabinet drawer and other things, so I am expecting an another visit from hot point whirlpool engineer to carry out the repairs, you see i am not totally invalid and decrepit.

@jimcovert5640 2 года назад

Outstanding video

@caesarmazzeo5120 2 года назад

My GEGSL25JFXBLBD evaporator fan motor is spinning backwards change do you main board already still the same please help

@rickterj1 4 года назад

Extremely helpful thank u

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

Glad it helped! Stay in touch.

@binhtruong1862 5 лет назад

Hi Andy, Thank you for making the videos and sharing. I have issues with defrosting and the temperature display reads wrong temperature. Freezer is too warm which makes ice melt. I think it's defrosting too long. It may link to temperature control, because the display was showing -2, but manually measured at 39. It corrected itself after unplugged and plugged in again. So I thought the issues are the sensors and thermistor. I replaced the thermistor and all sensors, but no good. Therefore, I think the issue is the control board and evaporator fan. J2 testing : voltage is good, but the resistance to fans (white and red) is 0.80k ohms. Could you please review my issues and recommend? Shall I replace control board and evaporator fan? Thank you so much. Binh

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Sorry to hear about the issues with your refrigerator. Are you seeing any kind of Frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. The next time the freezer is too warm, remove the rear wall inside the freezer by removing the 4 bolts and take a picture of what the evaporator looks like. Feel free to send it to graceappliance@gmail.com and that will tell us a lot. Also, take notice of the fan is turning or not at that time.

@binhtruong1862 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy, Thank you very much for your response. I just emailed you pictures of my refrigerator. There was no frost built-up, and fan wasn't running at the time, and there was a lot of moisture and water vapor (wet) in the freezer, and the temperature was showing at 2 for the freezer and 36 for the refrigerator. I knew the temperature was not correct, so I unplugged it and waited for 20 seconds and plugged it again. The temperature was changed to 31 for the freezer and 41 for the refrigerator. The cycle started over again; it's working fine until defrosting... I also noticed that the seals near the evaporator heater was deformed due to excessive heat ?(picture). Thank you very much for your help.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi @@binhtruong1862 , So looking at your pictures and hearing the symptoms, here are the things that come to mind: It does look like the heater has stayed on too long at one point. The things that can cause this to happen are either a failed defrost thermostat or a stuck relay on the main control board. I would check all of your temperature sensors and your defrost sensor for which I have a video called testing and replacing a defrost sensor. If all of the sensors are good, I'd replace your main control board. See links in the description. Another reason I am leaning toward a main board is that the display LEDs are not fully lit on your temperature control. This symptom could technically be a failed user interface board, but most often will be a main control which sends the voltage to the user interface board. And given the symptom of the temps changing upon reboot makes me think main control as well. Either way I would change all temperature sensors along with a board swap. Let me know if you have any questions on telling the temps sensors. Thanks!

@binhtruong1862 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy, I already replaced defrost thermostat, defrost sensor and all other temperature sensors. The display LED is working fine, it's just the picture imperfection. So I will replace the main control board and will let you know. Thank you very much for your time and help.

@binhtruong1862 5 лет назад

Hi Andy, I received the main control board, but haven't yet installed it, because I found out another problem. The defrost heater wire terminal and the blue wire was burned (picture attached). It's quite expensive to replace the whole harness. Do you have any idea how to fix this? Do you think the defrost heater causes the problem? I would like to fix the harness and install new defrost heater and test run before swapping new main control board. Please advise. Thank you.

@jalyn1999 5 месяцев назад

Water is dripping down in the bottom freezer drawer

@my2k2zx2 2 года назад

Just found your video and still have questions with our GE Fridge, GYE22HSKMSS. The evaporator fan is only running in short bursts. We replaced the fan but that did not help. Digging deeper, at the fan connector in the fridge, we have 13v from the red & black wires but the 5v coming from the yellow wire is sporadic. I'm guessing this 5v is what triggers the fan to start up? Is this an indicator of a bad control board? My J2 port doesn't look like this and I cant figure out which connector on the board is for the fans.

@GraceAppliance 2 года назад

Hey, So it is likely going to be a failed board. On your board you will have 2 larger green resistors. Do these look discolored or burned at all? If your meter has a Hz (frequency) setting there is also a test you can use to confirm that your fan is sending the appropriate feedback to the board to let it know its in fact turning. I don't remember off the top of my head, but in my fan video I show how the tach function works for these PWM motors. Let me know how those resistors look.

@karaganbulger2543 5 лет назад

Hi! It appears I didn’t pass the test for the fan motor circuit which starts at the 6:30 mark! Does this mean a new board is what is needed?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hey, do you remember what resistance reading you got? (if any) If you show no continuity, it would be a failed fan motor. I've heard reports from others that they got roughly 0.8kohms which is fine. Let me know what you find. Thanks!

@karaganbulger2543 5 лет назад

.47

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Karagan Bulger yes, that sounds like it will be a failed fan motor based on that. I’d want to confirm that you’re getting appropriate voltage to the fan to also rule out a bad board, but if you’re getting voltage to the fan, the board is doing its job. Look at the two larger green resistors on the board and see that they have not turned dark or brown. The condenser fan motor would get around 13.5vdc, but the evaporator fan motor is a variable speed and the voltage varies to achieve low, med and high speed. So it would be between 5-13.5vdc. (As shown in this video) But, I’d unplug the fan circuit and do the tests directly in the boards pins going to that particular fan. If you have any questions, let me know! Also, when you order your fan motor please use the affiliate amazon links found in the video description which helps the channel greatly. Thank you!

@karaganbulger2543 5 лет назад

Thanks for the info! I’m gonna pull the fan motor tonight and I will let you know. Other info is the lowest the freezer gets to is 6° and the the fridge gets to 45° Regardless of the actual setting but I guess without the evap fan blowing it won’t get to the actual setting. I will be sure the buy through your link

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

@@karaganbulger2543 yes, for sure it wouldn't get much colder than that if the evaporator fan has failed. The freezer is actually doing its job, but it just can't circulate that cold air and pull it across the cold evaporator over to the fridge side. Sometimes you'll find frost build up in strange places on the evaporator as a result of no air flow too which looks kind of like a defrost issue, but isn't of course. Good luck!

@paulkozma1109 6 лет назад

Do these test apply to GE Profile Model # PFS22MIWABB bought in 2007.

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Hi Paul, they will be VERY similar, but I don't recall if the pin and plug configuration is identical. They should be close enough to get the rough idea for the tests. If I recall correctly this particular fan motor was made by Samsung at some point in time. For example, if you have to replace either fan motor, you'll see the price for these are like $250!! But if you look much closer on the part itself you'll see a Samsung part number and that particular Samsung fan is on like $70. Literally the exact same part! So, my point is, if you need a new part be sure to look to see if there is a Samsung compatable part. Just going off memory right now as I'm away from my desk, but seem to remember that. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any questions as you go along. What symptoms are you dealing with?

@paulkozma1109 6 лет назад

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos Hi, just want to check if both the evaporate and condenser fans are operating properly. Looking at the condenser fan at the back it seems to fun slowly. The evaporator fan I can't see.

@paulkozma1109 6 лет назад

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos Hi, my freezer temperature and fresh food temperature seem to fluctuate and compressor runs longer. Want to seem is both fans condenser and evaporate fans are running properly.

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Hi Paul, you could start with an ohm resistance test for the fan motor and then voltage test to make sure it 'should' be spinning. But, sometimes it's best to disassemble the freezer section to get eyeballs on the fan itself to confirm that there is nothing blocking the fan blades. I. E. Ice build up. Sometimes you'll find you're actually having a defrost issues rather than a fan motor issue. Don't force the disassembly if it's not wanting to come apart just in case you have styrofoam behind the panels. You'd then have to fully defrost the fridge and freezer unplugged before you could disassemble. I've seen far more defrost issues than fan issues on this style of fridge. This may not mean a lot, but I'd definately start with looking at the freezer evaporator if you're able to get it disassembled.

@shawjamesr1 2 года назад

Hi Andy, Thanks for all you do. With this video I diagnosed and replaced the main board. Now everything lights up and works EXCEPT the freezer and frig does not cool down even a little after running the frig for 1.5 hours. I checked for ohms as you suggested, after putting in the new board, and I am reading 836 ohms (you said the reading should be 1500-3000 ohms). You mentioned that in this case there is something wrong with the fan circuit BUT both fans are working (blowing air and both seem to be doing so at a good rate). I read a ton of comments herein without seeing my same question asked. Please help! What should I diagnose next? Jim

@billguitarvin 2 года назад

Hi Andy and thank you so much for all your great videos! I was especially glad to come across your main control board videos, as most people don’t get into them on their channel. One question is I have a Kitchenaid side by side model # KSCS25INSS00. I’m having intermittent problems with the condenser fan motor turning off while the compressor is still on. I noticed my compressor fan is rated for 115 volts 60 Hz, so would that mean I should see around 115 volts AC going from the control board to the compressor fan? If so, could I check out the fan by unplugging the connection at the fan and hooking it up to 115-120 volts from an AC plug in my house? So far the voltage going to the compressor fan is sometimes at 6 volts, sometimes 12 volts and the compressor fan and compressor would be running. Lately the voltage to the compressor fan from the main control board has been measuring less than a volt with the compressor running but the compressor fan not running. I have cleaned the coils and there wasn’t much dust to remove. I also have continuity in the wiring harness going from the main control board to the compressor fan. I also have 120 volts at the AC input to the main control board. Thank you!

@khurramtehseen8671 2 года назад

My j2 has 6 pins connected as follows. 1. White 2. Yellow 3. Black 4. Yellow blue 5. Blank 6. Blank. Can you tell me which ones correspond to what. Model number Gye22hskfss

@mikewalsh511 6 лет назад

Im having an issue with my GE fridge running the compressor nearly constantly. Seems to be the freezer temp setting that stops it, but even on freezer setting 1 it runs non stop and the freezer temp is -10 or lower. Im thinking a bad thermistor. Which wires to test ?

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Hi Mike, Sorry to hear about your issues with the refrigerator. I'd make sure to check the condenser coils behind the refrigerator to make sure the coils are not excessively dirty. Here's a video on that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W8f0fc36ObE.html As for checking your temperature sensors - here's a video on how that's done. I hope it's helpful, but please let me know if you have any questions: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CG-2FnQ43Hs.html Good luck! Andy

@samcanada2346 Год назад

D frost heterogeneous

@troynichols9030 2 года назад

Andy, thanks for all of the great diagnostic videos. I couldn't have fixed my GE refrigerator without you. When my refrigerator compressor and fans stopped working I checked the compressor overload and start relay first and the overload broke in my hand. However, replacing both parts didn't fix the problem. Thank God I found your videos that helped me locate the problem: the fans weren't getting any voltage even though there was no visible sign of any damage. Replacing the control board fixed the problem but there was one complication. I had ordered an aftermarket control board because they offered free returns but it kept cycling off and on every minute. I think it may have been overloaded because the large resistor in the evaporator fan drive circuit ran extremely hot. I replaced it with an OEM board and now the refrigerator works great. Thanks again for your help.

@phoenixkeller5858 3 месяца назад

Some of the best quality video and instructions I've seen on all of you tube! Very helpful descriptions and showing details. Thank you.

@co8142 Год назад

You helped me rule out a board and pinpoint me to a bad evaporator fan motor, and I cannot thank you enough. Such invaluable information! Very detailed and concise, not to mention the video angles were spot on haha. Great job.

@ticosceninc.elsdexpertsfda7713 11 месяцев назад

I got my G.E. Cafe' fridge for free from a frustrated neighbor that couldn't get the "PROS" to fix it right. I fixed it up for a couple hundred and love it. Save 4K from having to buy one. :) Freezer fan was freezing up due to moisture and mother board had to be replaced (weak power supply). These must be replaced at the same time. Just had to replace the MOBO again because the door's water and ice dispenser stopped working along with the LED lights. That was due to a recent lightening strike wounding the board and finally that power supply dying. Sensitive electronics for sure on these smart refridgerators.

@alfonsosanchez7896 5 лет назад

Andy, I found that my mother board is bad it has tow burn spots on the relay. The Condenser Fan Motor is giving me .801 ohms and not the expected 1.5 to 3 ohms. Do I need to replace both the condenser fan motor and mother board, or just the mother board. However i did not see how you test the evaporator motor. I believe the my fridge only has two fans, the condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor. Can you advise. Thanks.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi Alfonso Sanchez, I’ve heard from others that they are getting the same readout as you are so I would not be concerned about the fan. Replace the board and you should be in good shape. If you will order through the affiliate link in the description, it’s a huge help for the channel. Thanks and let me know if you hit any snags with the install. Andy

@MsOnTheOtherHand 2 года назад

GREAT Job! Hubby is not home and your video made me NOT AFRAID to tackle this by myself. I read every single question in the comments and didn't find this one: Problem: evaporator fan pulsing on and off every second or so - everything else seems fine. I followed along the video step by step and everything was as expected, but once I got to the part after you remove the harness and check the Ohms between R2-3 (white) and R2-8 (red), the reading would go back and forth between 0L and 3.0 - it just depended on how I happened to orient the harness, or which way the wires got jiggled. I was very careful and certain that the electrodes maintained contact with the metal inside the wire holes in the harness while I moved or jiggled (and also tried using the easily accessible metal stripes on the back of the harness with same results). The reason I was moving and jiggling is because at first, the reading was 0L, but when I shifted my weight, it popped up to 3.0. So then I replicated this by moving the harness and/or the wires while keeping the electrodes in certain contact. On the one hand, your opening comments put pulsing fans in the motherboard category. But on the other hand, I got 124VAC and 13VDC in the previous steps - so NOT the motherboard. And THAT's why they call me Miss On the Other Hand!

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi mr Andy, engineer came out to replace the control board in my Maytag refrigerator but the point is he didn’t do any test on it before he change it, to see if there is any fault in it I don’t mean to be rude sir is it possible he might have stolen the original one and kept it for himself ?and on top of that my fridge is not cooling enough but my freezer is fairly working okay, is there something wrong with evaporator fan motor because my refrigerator is constantly running nonstop and I have to turn it on and off manually by leave it on for 45 minutes and off for 30 minutes and turn it back on again and keep repeating the same cycle over and over again and i am still waiting for another visit by engineer to come and have a look at it. I really appreciate you comments on that sir, because believe it or not it is doing my head in!

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Majid Hossini hi! I’m sorry to hear about the issues. I’d like to think the technician did not do such a dishonest thing, but I have seen worse things personally. More likely to me is that he simply guessed at the possible needed part based on the symptoms it’s exhibiting, and guesses wrong. If you’re able or get in touch with him, I’d request your old board back...or perhaps a refund for the money you paid him for the incorrect part. I’m not certain how most companies handle it, but I’ve never charged a customer for a part due to an incorrect diagnosis. It does happen...and the best one can do is take it on the chin and eat the cost of the parts. This shouldn’t be on the customer unless I’ve had a conversation about my findings and give them the option of trying a particular part on their dime. I also won’t charge for a diagnosis if I am not certain of the issue with the machine. It saves this kind of headache if I haven’t charged anything for my time. Anyway, hopefully he takes good care of you there. As far as the evaporator fan, it certainly could be this based on your symptoms. And, if you in fact have a new control board, the fan should be turning if the freezer is too warm. If not, likely it’s a failed fan motor. A qualified technician should be able to verify voltage to the fan motor quickly and easily to confirm this. Let me know if you run in to any questions!

@henrythompson8941 5 лет назад

can you help me not sure if bad evap fan or board wires are red white yellow and brown where trhe fanshooks up what dc volts should I have on the wires think fan ok its a Kenmore dc fan

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Henry Thompson hi Henry, what is your model number please?

@unioncityhiller 5 лет назад

Andy......What’s the proper way to test the thermal fuse ? ( the part that has one black wire and one red wire connected to it, and a foam insulation wrapped around its sensing tip)

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Guang LF if you have continuity when doing an Ohm test, it is a good fuse. You should get around .01 - .03 Ohm resistance. The fuse only relates to your defrost cycle. As I understand it, you are dealing with a fan that is not running, is that right? The frost build up you are seeing on the evaporator is likely not a defrost issue, it is due to no air flow caused by the fan not working.

@vernroach3413 5 лет назад

A damn good video....Shows more than most, and the camera work is excellent....Thank you for the info and the video.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Thanks for the kind words Vern! You’re most welcome. Stay in touch.

@crypto_riddler8012 2 года назад

One of the most informative and well explained videos I have seen on RU-vid. Appreciate the work you put into it.

@merlinxyzzy 6 лет назад

Andy, your videos are excellent. Thankyou. I have a GE SxS with the freezer working but not the refrigerator section. I followed your video and found 800 ohms on the fan power circuit which I think is what your video showed and you said it should be around 1.6 K ohms. I could easily see the fan on the squirrel cage and it was working. So I painfully took the freezer drawers, ice maker and panels off to find the other fan. Not easy because my freezer is a large drawer at the bottom with a big Stop sticker telling me not to remove the 5 screws on either side of the pull out bracket. I tested the fan motor and found it to be 1.6K ohm. I also tested the tach circuit using the Hz setting and it worked. Thank you for showing that. I also tested the squirrel cage fan and it was also 1.6 K Ohm. On your schematic shown on the video you show the power lines for the two fans to be in parallel. So the 800 ohm reading you and I got are correct for two 1.6 K Ohm motors in parallel suggesting the motors are ok. You said the 800 ohms shown on your video suggests a bad fan motor. I plugged both fans in and powered up. They both work and after an hour my fridge was clearing working. By 2 am I had the fridge all back together and my wife and I did a good cleaning. Thanks to you I saved hundreds, I am not exactly sure why the second fan stopped and now working but at least I know what to look for and I have a very clean and working fridge. Just wanted to suggest your comment about 800 ohm on the parallel fan circuit may be wrong. Let me know if I did not understand correctly.

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Awesome info Merv, I appreciate the detailed follow up and i'm sure this will help someone else out there. I'll be sure and pin this comment and try and highlight it during that moment in the video. Thanks! As for your specific issue, you might want to check the temperature sensor for the refrigerator section. The evaporator fan will cycle on and off (whenever it needs to) based on temperature in the freezer section and the refrigerator section as well. If the control board isn't getting a correct signal from the refrigerator temp sensor - it may not realize it should be circulating air to the fridge section at that point. Just a thought I had.

@tysimmons2444 5 лет назад

Hi Andy. Great information. I am working on a 2013 GE model GSE26HSECHSS SxS. Evaporator is freezing over. Fridge and Freezer warm on top and freezing on bottom. I initially replaced all Thermistors. I jumped the wire for the heater and it glowed orange as it should. All tests came out correct except for the EVAP Fan was around 18 when you spec's it at 1.5-3 k ohms. Would a failed EVAP motor cause the defrost heater to not come on ? The R43 Evap Fan motor resistor on the circuit board looks fine. The solder joints on the bottom look slightly discolored. They both tested at 2.1k ohms on the top. Just trying to make sure it is the board before I spend the money. Anything else you can think of? Thanks Ty

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hey Ty, Sorry to hear about your issues with your refrigerator. I have not seen where a bad fan will keep the board from going in to defrost, but a shorted out fan will damage a board and no defrost as a side effect wouldn't suprise me either. In your case, I'd replace both the mian control board and evaporator fan motor. Thanks!

@tysimmons2444 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance Thank you for the quick response !

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

@@tysimmons2444 you're welcome! If you purchase through Amazon please click on the affiliate links in the description and it helps the channel a ton. Thanks!

@tysimmons2444 5 лет назад

I bought the new control board and fan via your link. Those did the trick. Thank you for the help. Leaving a donation. Ty

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

@@tysimmons2444 I'm so glad to hear that! Glad to help and thank you ever so much for the donation! Stay in touch. Andy

@rugged1987 8 месяцев назад

This video was instrumental in saving me a costly repair the only difference for me was that I have purple wires on j2 and not red thanks a ton for your to the point video !

@dagrynch 13 дней назад

Nothing except the interior lights worked on my fridge Failed a voltage check detailed on this video Bought a control board from Amazon for $130, way less than the $330 control board from GE parts site Fired right up

@gerard-laurent Месяц назад

Hi Sir, Can you tell me the value of the resistors for both fans? I am confused about the correct value of these resistors. Thank you for any possible help. Excellent videos by the way. Very good contribution.

@damianhellson9651 8 месяцев назад

My GE model CYE 22USHESS keurig running non stop . I run a test control and this are the results When Fridge is cooling mode on test shows 00 24 fridge termistor 40.6 F 00 26 fridge evaporator termistor 7.36 F 00.27 freezer termistor is 4.40 F 00.28 freezer evap.term. is 654.24 F Turned off the cooling on the control board OFF cooling. 00.24 fridge termistor 45.70 F 00.26 fridge evap ter. 30.31 F 00.27 freezer termistor 12.31 F 00.28 freezer eva term 13.17 F The diagnostis errors showed are Codes counts days 0 0 2791 even if cleared with code 00.01 turns back the same. Is the board faulty and yes is the new board WR55X38248 the conectors are compatible ? my old board is WR 55X28077 Thanh you for shering all te information I appraciet it.

@secondwindmusicproductions 6 лет назад

I believe it should be called "pulse width modulation" not "pulse wave modulation". The width of the square wave pulse is varied to change the average power sent to the motor.

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Thank you. I mis spoke. Good catch.

@DavidShay-lk8ij 6 месяцев назад

Hi Andy. Great video. I am in a pickle and maybe you can help. I followed your test and the board is supplying power to my evaporator fan. But my fan is not working at all. I have bought 2 oem new motors and still never turns on. Any idea what maybe wrong? I did the self diagnostic test T8 and t4 that check the fan and thermistor and they both passed. Freezer cools fine. Just no airflow to fridge. Any idea. Please. Thanks in advance

@connerwhite2086 4 месяца назад

My refrigerator died on me after I turned the breaker on and off. Checked my control board immediately and the two resistors were both burnt up. I immediately ordered another control board. When I put it in I still had the same problem, the lights are on but nothing else. I did some more research and troubleshot it to my inverter board and that didn’t change anything either. Stumbled across this video and saw that my control board isn’t send 12-14v on J2. So i assumed the new one I had was also bad and ordered another one. Just put it in and I’m still in the same position I was 2 weeks ago.. Please somebody help me.

@unioncityhiller 5 лет назад

That was the thermal fuse (the part that has 1 black and 1 red wires connected to it and a insulation foam wrapped around it). It reads 0.1 ohm

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Guang LF that’s a good fuse.

@mickeypm100 7 месяцев назад

Hi Andy, As per this video, on two occasions when we had power failures, my GE side by side refused to come on. fortunately after around eight hours on both occasions it restarted as normal. during the down period I checked the 13 VDC as per the video and found that the voltage was swinging like in the video. could the non restarting of the unit have anything to do with a thermistor or the evaporator fan? Once it restarted the 13 VDC supply is fine and the unit is functional. Your comments if you can would be much appreciated. ...... Mike

@Csdc20 9 месяцев назад

Please help I have a ge ref 5 yrs old. Replaced mobo, replaced deli pan circuit board twice. Ref works for 10 mins then fail again. I finally just disconnected pin j11 and rest of ref works but the deli pan and evap thermistor are not. Pls. Technician came 4x but no luck. Tnx.

@AD_0 4 года назад

My GE side by side refrigerator GSS25TSTBSS (WR55X10942P) is not circulating cold air well. Water bottle freezes at the bottom part of the freezer but not at the top where the ice maker is located. The top half of evaporator coil is frozen. The fresh food bottom section is cold but top section is warm. My refrigerator test result -117 volt a/c Testing voltage to control board. - When trying to put refrigerator Liner Protection Mode condenser fan was running but the evaporator has not responded. -I got 13.62 volt dc testing supply voltage of 12-14vdc to fan motors. -I got 12.66 volt dc testing evaporator fan motor -I got 10.04 volt dc testing condenser fan motor -I got 1,310 ohm testing fan motor circuit I also checked the Ohm resistance reading for heater circuit I got 20.6 ohm. In the last two years i had replaced the defrost heater twice / defrost thermostat/ door gasket/ drain tube/Evaporator Fan Motor.

@probablywrongagain2151 5 месяцев назад

I read a comment of yours from the motor test video and you said pull the motor plug and test the voltage with the motors disconnected, sometimes the motors will pull the voltage low. When I did this I got 13v! So the board is good right? Also, mine only had one yellow wire. Not sure what to make of that.

@SoulSeeker 5 лет назад

Hi Andy sorry it took me so long to reply as I was waiting for my new digital multimeter to arrive. I checked the new recently replaced relay as you suggested and got 112 vac, the compressor runs consistently and the condesor fan turns on but after about 10 minutes. The new evaporator fan still does not turn on. Would you have any other suggestions?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Mike Robledo No problem. I’ve got the service manual which I’m glad to send your way if you needed it. Feel free to send me an email to GraceAppliance@gmail.com and I can reply with that. It will be a big help in walking you though how to enter the service modes which you can force run almost every feature on the refrigerator. For instance, I’d start with a force run of the evaporator fan motor which would rule out the fan motor and control board (and associated wiring). You say both are new, but I’d want to just see it in action. The refrigerator evaporator fan circuit is the plug CN75 pins number 3 (orange) and the other meter lead on CN10 pin 3. You should get between 7-12vdc. Then CN10 pin 3 & CN75 pin 6 (brown) should measure between 2-3vdc and indicates that the fan is indeed turning. We can start there. I’d assume these parts are both good and it’s likely going to be a failed temperature sensor that’s at fault by not telling the board to supply voltage to the fan. Or, a failed door switch as the fan would not spin if the door were ‘open’. Thanks, Andy

@msnetsvc 5 лет назад

Andy, you have a great methodology for explaining several issues, but I can't find anything showing the panel removal for my French door model PFSF6KPX BBB (black). That front panel doesn't come out the way shown, is flat faced, has one screw underneath the ice/water edge, and doesn't budge. How does one remove that - so I can get to the ice path spring-loaded door which is always open?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

msnetsvc hey, here’s a video that should make things more clear. I hope it helps: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6bTbK9Ztmck.html

@msnetsvc 5 лет назад

Thanks, exactly what I needed. This is a great site.

@sandroghirau3392 5 лет назад

Hello Andy! I really need your help! My refigerator is also GE, main board number 200d6221g028. So, when I turn on the fridge is possible hear just a click, probably coming from the start rele, after that anything happens, no fan, no compressor, nothing! Could you help me to find the problem? My email, sandroamauri@gmail.com, Im from Brazil, and to replace this board for a new one is very very expensive! Thanks for your support!

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi, Sandro Ghirau If you have not looked at this video, please start here. This will rule out a bad front touch panel for you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ViFpwH6_WrM.html You can unplug the J4 connector and the compressor should come on at that point. Also, you can leave a door open for 3 minutes which should activate both fan motors for you. But, It certainly sounds Control Board related through given your symptoms. Let me know if you have any questions!

@simotacorvinandrei765 9 месяцев назад

good evening. please help me with a problem too. I changed the green pcb on the refrigerator, I also changed the fan next to the compressor and it still doesn't work that fan. what else could it be? there is another yellow pcb. should i change that one too? thank you

@philliplopez9793 5 лет назад

do you have a video on ge model PFC1RKZH SS

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Phillip Lopez no, not specifically, but they are all going to be very similar. What kind of issues are you dealing with?

@mattgallagher3245 Год назад

Im developing a business plan for TwelveSprings RV and Repair and am "self taught" mechanically not through trade school or other. Andy, you are teaching for the sake of your viewer, not for your own sake. You've set yourself apart from many onRU-vid, including myself. I've liked and subscribed, and will likely make an offering to honor the work you do empowering people to help themselves and others.

@Fueler 6 месяцев назад

My evaporator motor works but the diode is black on the main circuit board and the fridge doesn’t come on only lights.

@anatmargo5802 Год назад

@shanestewart2036 5 лет назад

Hello, I have 11.4 volts going to the condenser fan. Would this cause the fridge to not get cold?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi Shane, This sounds about right for the condenser fan (12-13.5vdc is about perfect), but so long as your condenser fan is turning - I would rule that out as the cause for your fridge issue. Now, other things to check is to make sure the compressor is running. Anytime the condenser fan is running, the compressor should be as well. Also, check the evaporator fan to make sure it is running. Is there excessive ice build up on the back wall of the freezer? If so, you would have a defrost issue. Other things you might check if these both check out, is to take the inside freezer wall down to get eye balls on the evaporator. If the compressor has been running at least 30 minutes, you should see that almost all of the evaporator coils should have a light coating of frost on them. If not, this could indicate a sealed system issue. Let me know what you're seeing with respect to the compressor and evaporator. Thanks, Andy

@shanestewart2036 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance thanks Andy. I was able to rule out any electrical issues by watching your videos. It just needed a shot of r134. Nice and cold once again. thanks again for saving me a few bucks.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

@@shanestewart2036 you're most welcome! I'm glad it helped. Stay in touch.

@MM-ix5nf 5 лет назад

Thank you for the video. I am having trouble with my GE GSL25JGCBLS side by side refrigerator and like Merv Swan I also get 800 ohms. Only thing is that I taken out both fan motors (condenser and evaporator) but do not get any Hz reading when I do the test you showed. Both fans do turn on and spin. I have done the visual inspection of the board and it seems fine. I have been getting good voltages to both fans. I have good voltage coming from the wall 122 V. Is there a reason why I am not getting any Hz reading. I noticed that on the condenser fan there are only 3 pins are being used which connect to the Red, Yellow and White part of the motor going to the control board., Btw my evaporator fan in the freezer has an extra connection for the light bulb not sure if that affects it. Thank you for your video and any advice will be greatly appreciated. P.S. Where do you get your wiring schematics?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

M M hi MM, sorry to hear about your issues with the refrigerator. I’m not entirely clear about what issue you’re having. So, neither fan are turning? Don’t worry too much about he Ohm read out at the fans, I’ve heard from others that the 800ohm range is no problem. The 4 wire fan should be getting a Frequency response as this is the motors tachometer and if this fails the fan won’t work properly. The 3 wire fan has no tach and it just measures for Dc voltage from the board. In either fan instance, if you’re getting proper voltage to the fan plug the fan should be turning. If not, you’ll need to replace the fan motors. The light circuit that you mention is of no consequence. You should see links in the description to both of the these fan motors. I’ll be traveling for a few days, but if you wanted to email your model number to GraceAppliance@gmail.com I can respond with your technsheet which will have schematics you could look at. Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions.

@steve56ist Год назад

My fans have a black wire instead of a white wire. Can I assume that wire serves the same function as the white wire? The other 3 wires are the same color as the ones in your video. Thanks in advance!

@jpgny929 5 лет назад

Thank you very much for your video. It will help me begin my refrigerator diagnostic testing.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Thanks Jeff, you’re most welcome. Stay in touch!

@onyinyenebolisa4612 5 лет назад

My ge profile side by side door works perfectly during the winter period but as soon as the weather starts getting warm, the temperature changes and it goes high authomaticaly. The freezer and the freidge stops functioning. Please what will be wrong

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi, the first thing I would check is to see that your condenser coils do not have dust on them. Check out this video and let me know what you find. Thanks! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W8f0fc36ObE.html

@rencanezPowerGirlProductions Год назад

if you don't have the 1500 to 3000 ohms on your condenser motor (unplugged) then is the condenser motor shorted and in need of replacement? we had about 880 ohms but the voltage reading is good

@GraceAppliance Год назад

Others have said this is fine. You should be good.

@geraldklenke9276 4 года назад

Hello Andy. I have watched your videos and have learned immensely from them. Thank you!!! I do have a slight worry since I replaced my control board(WR55X10529) with (WR55X10942). My Refrigerator/Freezer SxS Model # GSS25QGSC CC has a little different wiring on the J2 plug.p1-Blue,p2Red-jumper from p8,p3-white,p4 yellw/black, nothing @p5,p6,p7, &2 red p8. I do not know how to test for my condenser fan for voltage. My fan doesn't seen to be working even after an hour of cooling. I placed a small desk fan on the condenser and compressor to try and keep from overheating. Had to wait 3 weeks for the new control board because of Cov19, and do not want to damage it. When I installed the new board , the instructions said to cut a wire in J1 connector pin 2 to Eliminate Thermistor wire. This note said only applicable for bottom freezers and a few Encoder models w/ serial 3 prefixes, which did not match mine. I did not cut the wire. Anyway, with no yellow wire in pin5 of J2 , i am lost. Tested J2 Voltage and Ohms (p3-p8) all good readings. Any ideas?

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

Hey, I'm almost certain it will. Be between the white and red (p3&p8) that would be your condenser fan circuit, but am not able to find a diagram for your exact model. How you can verify is to either do your voltage test directly at the fan motor plug itself which is probably the easiest. Tell me what color wires you have coming in to the fan motor behind the fridge. Also, you can (with the fridge unplugged) verify which wire leads to which pin on the board by performing an ohm test between each wire and the corresponding pin on the board. Your red wire should be your constant 12-14vdc and the white is your neutral.

@jasonochs8369 4 года назад

Very Awesome video! easy to follow, easy to do, even for some very technical tests! Great job!!! Now, On to my issue... Freezer went out, cold at bottom, no so cold at top (thawing out) fridge was freezing food at bottom, normal at top. I replaced the defrost heater element, thermister, thermostat. everything seemed fine for about 6 weeks. Now, the freezer iseems to be working fine and the fridge is getting warm at top, cold still at bottom. Frost on freezer back panel. Ok, with that out of the way...on to your tests GE Hotpoint model HSS25GFPA WW unplugged. blue to orange ohms- 20, +/-1 unplugged. white to red .8xxK ohms unplugged. white to yellow/black OL unplugged. White to yellow OL plugged volts white to red 13v plugged white to yellow 12.5v plugged white to yellow and black 12.5v +/-. All the fans seem to be coming on and working, your board test seems to show a good board. My next step is to run a jumper to run the defrost element to get it to defrost. NOTE, I have not removed the cover for the coils in the freezer this time around. NOTE, I can see light coming from the freezer from the fridge side when i open doors and click the switch off, so if there is a damper door, its open NOTE, I dont have 2 green resistors side by side...I have 2 ceramic looking ones...One pink, One grey UPDATE: I jumped the wires for the heating element and it is glowing, So I let it run for a few minutes, un-jumped. A couple hours later, jumped again... The frost is disappearing on the back panel and I can actually feel cold air coming into the fridge side at the top vent....Good news I hope....

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

Hey sorry I missed the comment. RU-vid comment section is THE WORST! Anyway, the 4 components that relate to your fridge defrost are: The heater (working) The high limit thermostat (working since heater comes on) Defrost sensor (replaced already?) on top of the evaporator. & your control board. Since you've verified the heater & high limit are both working, if you've already replaced the defrost sensor (I'd be sure to use a legitimate GE part here) it only leaves the control board as your culprit. I hope this helps.

@jasonochs8369 4 года назад

@@GraceAppliance awesome. Thank you. The control board tests good. Maybe defrost sensor? I replaced the thermostat (clip on) and replaced the thermister at the top of the coil, but there's another at the bottom. I'll look into defrost sensor. Thank you so much!!!!

@jasonochs8369 4 года назад

So, I just watched your video on checking the defrost sensor...Nothing. No readings on the ohm meter. So I should replace the defrost sensor and is that the same as a thermister? I DID replace one already, but it came with other parts. Should I order OEM GE part and order 2?

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

Jason ochs hey, just so I’m not confusing things with the names of the parts... You’ve got a high limit thermostat which looks about the size of a stack $4 of quarters. If your heater glows with the jumper wires, both the heater and this part are good. This part does not dictate when the heater comes on, only turns the heater off should it get too hot. The defrost sensor is actually the part that tells the board how long to keep the heater on. It’s located on top of the evaporator and you’ve only got one of these. Roughly the size of 1” long and 1/4” wide. White in color with two white wires leading to it. This should defiantly not be open like you mentioned. Defiantly replace this with a GE OEM part and you should be good to go. :)

@wessy6668 6 месяцев назад

Hey Andy, does the voltage reading applicable to the electrolux french door refrigerator control board as well

@seriyvolk4597 4 года назад

ANDY !!! YOU ARE AWESOME !!! Thank you for your precise descriptions and video shots!"-)

@benkanobe7500 2 года назад

This was FANTASTIC! I was thinking maybe my board had failed as my evaporator fan did. I was going to just visually inspect the board (not an electrical guy) to if I could find a failed resistor or capacitor. This is the right way. Do you have a board repair video as I am going to test my board just like you showed me and I am sure my board will be bad (my condenser fan is running) but the evaporator is not? Thank You!!!

@Ally-oi6lm Год назад

He has a video on diagnosing bad control board. It was done awhile back scroll down to his videos and you will find it. I just watched it

@unioncityhiller 5 лет назад

Andy......My Samsung Side by side fridge: since some of the veggie and diary products in my cooler got really icy, so I increased the cooler temp by 2 degrees to 40 F. The next day, I noticed the freezer led temp display 0 F started flashing. So I powered the fridge off at the breaker and waited 2 hours before powering it back on. The fridge was on, compressor was running, cooler temp was preset at 38 F so I left it at that and freezer temp was preset at -4 F, so I adjusted it to 0 F. However, after running for 3 hours or so, the led display showed freezer temp at 48 F and it showed cooler temp at 34 F. The compressor doesn’t seem to stop. Please advise what should I do at this point. Thanks a bunch!

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi Guang, If you'd like to send me your model number to Graceappliance@gmail.com I can look for your tech sheet and reply with that. This will help with some troubleshooting tips. If you have a single evaporator, it could be a defrost issue on the freezer side, but the tech sheet will help us determine this. Thanks

@notruss1 5 лет назад

Well rats! I have a different mother board. It is the EBX1425P001 and is laid out differently. My J2 is a 6 pin connector on the bottom and only has a solid yellow, white and black wire (3 single wires) coming out of it. Is the J2 connector dedicated for the fans across all boards?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

I can take a look and see. What is your model number for your fridge?

@notruss1 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance Sorry I am bouncing back and forth between your videos, lol. Sorry, model fridge is GE PYE22PSHBSS.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

@@notruss1 No problem. So, your fridge is a different animal than what we're talking about in this video. So, i'm not sure how much help they're going to be with the diagnosis. Like you said, due to the fact that you're working on a french door fridge the board is going to be drastically different than what is shown here. I did find your service manual and if you wanted to send me an email to graceappliance@gmail.com I'm happy to forward it along to you. It may be helpful for pulling codes and forced run of certain components.

@kurtstrachota3969 5 лет назад

I have a GE Profile side by side Model # PSC23sgpass. My main board is bad as detailed on your video (the back of the relay). When testing the ohms on J2, I get 1.017 on the red wires and no readings on the yellow or yellow/black. The fans are turning and seem to be working. I didn't want torisk a new board if I might blow it with a fan problem before running it by you first.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Kurt Strachota hi Kurt, what are the colors of the two wires you’re measuring resistance on?

@kurtstrachota3969 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance White to yellow and white to yellow/black. I out the new board in and the temperatures improved a little 39-Ref.., 19-freez. This all started with a broken damper which I replaced. The temperatures then went to 0 and 37 as set. Then they began to creep up. The fans appear operational, no frost on the evaporator, condensor is clean, all thermistors check out. But the No Readings when ohming the fans is weird.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Kurt Strachota when you say no frost on the evaporator, you mean NO frost at all? If you remove the interior wall of the freezer, you should see a light coating of frost on most of the rungs of the evaporator. If there is zero frost, (and your compressor has been running for at least 30 minutes) it may indicate a sealed system issue. Let me know what you find on the evaporator. Thanks!

@kurtstrachota3969 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance There is a little frost on the lower section. Took a picture but not sure how to attach it.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Kurt Strachota feel free to send it to GraceAppliance@gmail.com If you’re only seeing frost on one small section of the evaporator (and the compressor has been running for 30 minutes) this sounds like a sealed system (I.e. compressor or refrigerant) issue. This unfortunately would be very bad news for the fridge.

@TheBreakneckbeats 4 года назад

I had power to my ge fridge but thats all it would do and no fans or anything would work. I checked and I had a burnt control board, I ordered a new one and still the same thing nothing works but the lights. Could it be a bad new control board !?

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

TheBreakneckbeats, probably not a bad board. However, double check that you received the correct part number based on your model number. I’m happy to confirm this if you’ll send your model number to me. Also, you can try unplugging the front control board from the circuit and if the fridge comes to life at that point, you know you also have a failed front touch panel in addition. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks, Andy

@TheBreakneckbeats 4 года назад

@@GraceAppliance thank you so much for your reply! Model is GSL25JFPH BS motherboard I got is 200D4854G013. Also, how do i unplug the front control board where is that ? I apologize Its my first time doing something like this im lost lol.

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

Hey, no problem! The easiest way to unplug the J4 plug on the main control board behind your fridge. Unplug your fridge, unplug J4 and restore power to the fride to see if that does it. J4 is usually in the top left of the board and has about 5 wires going to it. The board number that shows for your fridge is wr55x10942p. Double check that's the one you ordered based on the box it came in. Let me know what you find. Thanks!

@TheBreakneckbeats 4 года назад

@@GraceAppliance I ordered the one I mentioned because the burnt original board showed that specific board number so I assumed that is the original board. I guess I can try to order the one you mentioned and return this one.

@GraceAppliance 4 года назад

@@TheBreakneckbeats www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x10942-refrigerator-main-control-board-1?_pos=1&_sid=6ab956f04&_ss=r Thanks! Andy

@AD_0 5 лет назад

should the evap motor always turn on when the condensor fan is on?, because I have warm spots on my top shelve in the freezer. also i have water freezing at the bottom shelve in refrigerator side. I put 0 Fahrenheit and 37 Fahrenheit as recommended, my side by side refrigerator actual temperature is 0 Fahrenheit in the freezer and 47 Fahrenheit in the refrigerator.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi Addis, no the evap fan doesn’t always run with the condenser fan motor. It certainly could be related to the evap fan motor with these symptoms, but I’d also look closely for a temperature & defrost sensor issue. I have a video on how to test and replace a defrost sensor which is where I’d start. These sensors dictate when the evap fan comes on. Also, I’d rule out a defrost issue first by inspecting the evaporator coils behind the panel inside the freezer. You should see a light coating of frost on most of the rows of coils. A damper door issue could cause refrigerator temp issues, but not freezer issues so I don’t immediately suspect that.

@majidhossini676 5 лет назад

Hi mr any, I forgot to tell you that the actual company hotpoint (whirlpool); they have charged me 160 pound for the rendered services but what i am most concerned with at the moment is that( as I explained before )an engineer called out to come and fixe my side by side maytag American fridge freezer by replacing the control panel with the new one, he checked on the voltage where the socket is with his so called multi meter, but as I said before in my previous text that is all he did and left in a hurry, so point i was trying to make; (instead of beating about the bushes)is this; is my old control board any better than a new one, considering i am going to have another visit by the same company in a short while!?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

I understand. My point in bringing up the old board was that the new board has not resolved your issue with the refrigerator. So, it seems to me that the old board is likely not the faulty part. And, that is the board that you purchased when you purchased your refrigerator. Just because you purchase a new board from him today does not give him the right to then take your old board with him when he leaves. That’s the only reason I bring it up. If the new board did not resolve your issue with the fridge, I would definitely request to have him replace the old board as it didn’t resolve your issue. If they no longer have your board, I would request a credit for the cost of the incorrectly installed parts. These are just my initial thoughts based on what you’ve shared. It sounds like he simply guessed at the needed part vs providing a true diagnosis based on collected data.

@merlinxyzzy 6 лет назад

Andy I did find the temperature sensor and was surprised it seemed to be hard wired. But the lead was long enough to allow me to cut and resolder later with heat sink tubing etc. I tried the ice water and warm water resistance test which was fun to do. I am a geek! Anyways I assumed it is a termistor at least it acted like one. So I assumed it was working. I also tested all 3 connections to temp sensors thanks to your great videos. I also found a 20F thermal switch on the light circuit which I am very curious about. At first I thought it was the temperature sensor. Now why would the lights come on at 20F? Maybe it is not a switch. I also found one on the freezer light circuit but don't know what temp is. Anyways just curious.

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Hey! Here is a video on the correct resistance read outs for the temp sensors, which can be tested from the board... But it gives you a fun excuse to use the soldering iron. Lol, I'm the same way. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CG-2FnQ43Hs.html While your sensor is not completely failed, it may be out of spec. The ohm readout will change based on its current temperature. There is not a thermal switch on the light circuit to my knowledge. The only thermal switch that I know of would be the hi limit thermal cut off which would cut power to the defrost heater and would be closer to 120'F. I hope it helps!

@kngpin48 2 месяца назад

I have a GE Monogram and I recently changed the inverter and I placed the unit into diagnostic mode and it timed out and now when I press any button I get 3 beeps, does this have anything to do with the control board/ it is a 2008 side by side zisp480dtass

@kngpin48 2 месяца назад

ru-vid.comuTDwJp5wg58

@andersonjubay6118 5 лет назад

Thank you for your vedio, but i have a follow up question. What if there is no signal from tacho? Does it affect the operation of the refrigerator? Mine has no signal, do i need to replace the evaporator fan motor? Hoping for reply. Thanks again.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hi Anderson, Yes, the tach is built in to the fan motor itself. So, if you do not get a frequency response from the fan, it has failed. Just be sure that your meter does in fact measure frequency (HZ). It is a fairly common failure of these fans though. It sounds like you need a new fan motor. If you will order from the link in the description, it helps the channel a lot. Thanks!

@caputovajenaj7616 9 месяцев назад

Thank you. But PWM-Pulse width modulation not Pulse Wave Modulation

@mcoryuzga 5 лет назад

Hi ,my Fregider builds Ice the lower window, the upper window doesn't blow sufficient cold Air.to the food section. On a Kenmore Cold spot

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hello, without your model number I'll try and give some tips just generally. If your evaporator fan is working, but still mop air to your fridge, it sounds like it would be either a defrost issue causing ice build up that blocks the air flow, a problem with the damper door between the freezer and fridge or an air leak causing ice build up between the two cabinets. If you'll send your model number from the sticker inside the fridge section I might be able to provide some additional help. Thanks

@bergejermakian6540 6 лет назад

I don't have any voltage to the display panel. Where does the voltage come from?

@GraceAppliance 6 лет назад

Hi Berge Jermakian, I’d Start with this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ViFpwH6_WrM.html If you have voltage at the control board behind the fridge, but none at the touch panel it’s faulty wiring. The most common spot for wiring issues is a plug near the freezer door hinge behind the lower kick panel. You might start there and see if you have voltage to that plug and look to see if it’s corroded. If so, you may need to solder the wires together and do away with the plug all together. Let me know if you have any questions! Andy

@jimjohnstone3575 5 лет назад

Hello Andy. I need your help please. Your videos have been a great help in ruling out components on my PSHF6RGXCDBB GE Profile side-by-side. The front control panel shows a -9F for the freezer regardless of what temp I set it at. I used a separate thermometer to verify the freezer fluctuates between 10-30F. I tested the resistance of the thermistors at the J1 connector with it unplugged from the main board. The two fridge and evap thermistors are all good using the ice water test. There was no resistance across J1-1 to J1-3 for the freezer thermistor. Before doing this test I replaced the freezer thermistor before knowing to check the resistance at the J1 connector, and this did not fix the display showing -9F. I did verify the replacement thermistor is good by checking the resistance across the wire leads with it uninstalled. I verified the front control board is getting 13V.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hey! Can you verify that the freezer temp is between +10F and +30F? If so, this is too warm. A freezer temp should not be above +5’F and ideally closer to 0F. Does the compressor run full time or have you heard it cycling on and off periodically?

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Also, have you taken a measurement in the freezer temp sensor from the board after you’ve installed it? I would want to rule out a poor connection after the install causing this issues.

@jimjohnstone3575 5 лет назад

I should also mention I tested the fan motors. My J2 connector has two red wires in the J2-2 pin as well as two red wires on J2-8. I think this is because I have a CustomCool Fan based on what I can interpret from the wiring diagram. For each pin the resistance is 900 ohms to J2-1. Your video says it should be 1500-3000 ohms. But is mine okay, basically can I double the 900 ohms to get to 1800 ohms? Not sure if this relates to the freezer temp issue I mentioned above, but thought I would mention it. Thanks in advance!

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Jim Johnstone hey, the fans sounds fine with that measurement. I’ve heard feedback that this is normal for others. So, these don’t sound suspect.

@jimjohnstone3575 5 лет назад

@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy. Yes, I tested the freezer temp sensor after installing it. I twisted the wires together and then checked at the control board which still showed no resistance as if the sensor was not there.

@arnoldwilson3719 Год назад

My evap fan cost over $100 can we just solder in a cheaper fan with the same specs?

@juanDominguez-wl3un Год назад

Nice work with videos and details. Very professional....A+++++👍😁

@AlexSanchez-ci1rd 5 лет назад

Thank you for your videos am a technician in training and your videos are really help full

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Awesome Alex! Yes, I try and make videos that I wished were put there when I first started. Not so much how to disassemble andreassemble, but how to troubleshoot and diagnose quickly. I'm so glad you enjoy them! I've moved and my internet connection is awful here so uploading new videos seems impossible here. I'm still trying to find a solution. :( Stay in touch!

@AlexSanchez-ci1rd 5 лет назад

hopefully you get a better connection god willing you are going to find a solution and yea i was looking for the same thing how to troubleshoot fast and easy and i got that from your videos. :)

@alanbaker8259 5 лет назад

When I hooked my meter up the numbers was doing the same thing yours was ..I unplugged the refrigerator for 24 hoursnow the numbers are normal and the refrigerator works .. does this mean the board is going out

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Hey Alan, It sure sounds like a bad board to me. It’s actually an easier thing to test when it’s acting up at that moment though. It’s the intermittent issues that are the bears to track down. But, the fact that it returned to normal after being unplugged for a time is textbook failed control board. I’d suspect the board has weak relays or a possibility that the evaporator fan motor is periodically shorting out which robs voltage by creating a short circuit. If you wanted to wait until the next time it acts up, you can unplug J2 (I.e. fan motor circuits) and see if the fridge comes to life at that point. If so, your issue is a failed fan motor and most commonly the evaporator fan motor. Or, if you want to be proactive about it, go ahead and replace both. If it’s a primary refrigerator I’d probably go that route. If you order though Amazon, please click the link from the description which helps the channel a ton. Let me know if you have any questions in the meantime! Thanks, Andy

@josephfolsom2030 5 лет назад

Excellent video tutorial Andy. Being an old school appliance tech it’s nice that you can turn to a tutorial like yours. I’ve been in the trade for over 37 years. Today I had my first inverter compressor problem. I have a compressor analyzer that I have used for years, but from my understanding you can’t use it on an inverter compressor. In this case everything was running except the compressor. It was another person who I just happened to find and I was very grateful. Videos like yours and the one I viewed today can teach an “old dog new tricks” I’m subscribed to your channel now.

@GraceAppliance 5 лет назад

Joseph Folsom hey Joseph! You’re most welcome. Thanks for the kind words. Yeah, the inverter compressors are a different animal than the typical relay style. The inverter board has one task, to provide power to the compressor, but before it turns on, it must get a low voltage signal from the main board. It’s got 2 small wires leading from the main control and sends something like 3.5vdc (I forget exactly) but if you’re getting this voltage the main board is doing its job. If the compressor still does not come on, it’s a failed inverter board (or in theory could be a failed compressor). But, annoyingly you can’t do your typical Ohm test between the 3 compressor pins. The tester you have wouldn’t help here I think. Stay in touch!