Because the motor runs does not prove that it's good. This motor has 4 wires. 1 of them is DC power and 1 is DC ground. The 3rd wire is for sending an rpm signal to the control board and the 4th is for receiving a rpm command signal from the control board. GE refrigerators with these 4 wire motors have a "liner protection mode" . If you leave the freezer door open for a few minutes the freezer fan motor comes on. If it comes on you know the fan motor and the control board are good. If the fan doesn't come on you have either a bad fan motor or a bad control board or BOTH . Bad fan motors can take out the control board. So if you have a bad fan motor but think you have a bad control board, you can blow the new board.
I measured the volts on the red and yellow wires using the white wire as negative. Red was higher about 12.5, yellow was lower about 11.5 or thereabouts, but they were both close to 12volts on those wires compared to the white wire in center of plug. 2 end white wires on the far side of the plug are for some kind of temperature sensor. I have a 6-wire plug with fan wr60x10307. Since I have volts, the board is good, and the fan is bad. Another issue was the fan blade was not pushed down on the shaft far enough, every time it ran, it made a horrible racket, and it slightly grooved the plastic cover inside. A new fan and putting it farther down, I should have a quiet fridge. Been that way since new.
Just did this test on a DC Frigidaire evap fan. Has a brown instead of white wire. Fan says 12 volts. The test worked. Now I only have to buy the overpriced P.O.S. main board.
