This is exactly what im experiencing. I dont think my lines are leaking although i guess i should check before i began. I am excited to do this replacement.
Is the non pressurized test ( no engine running) with plugs really a 100% test? It worked in this scenario but for those that fail only under pressure(car running), it could be misleading? thoughts?
Is this correct? To test the Master Cylinder, plug the two holes with brass fittings and apply pressure. If the pedal goes to the floor then the M/C is bad.
Well you said the brake pedal was dropping to the floor when the car was running but when you isolated the master cylinder to test it the car was off. Not too clear on that
Thanks for amazing video. My 07 Lexus RX 350 break padel sink, (not all the time and not everyday) master cylinder has been charged twice after a month problem came back, has been bleeded couple of time, everything else is good, no leak anywhere why do you think it’s happening? Thanks
If you're expecting RU-vid to automatically point me to the second part of this video, it didn't happen. For the sake of your viewers, It would be best to put all your content in the same video.
yep. and we had to endure six and a half minutes of nonsense jabber to get there. Still never talked about how to diagnose it beyond that or the check valve, etc. my suggestion, try another video.
Got a ? How do i tell if i got a bad break booster or master cylinder i have no leaks and wen car is off i have a hard pedal i start car and breaks go to floor
I might have a strange case, 2007 Lexus es350, pedal feels firm with engine off and as soon as the engine is started the pedal goes to the floor keeping foot pressure relatively constant. Brakes bleed several times. Ideas? Thanks.
Hello, I am curious to see if you every fixed this issue. I am having the same issue with a 2001 Chevy Blazer LS no leaks and I'm pretty sure its the master cylinder.
@@michaeltownley1378 I am not sure what I did but it seems to be working OK, the pedal still goes down pretty far but the car stops good and I am just living with it now. Good luck.
I have 2001 infiniti i30t and I am in the process of changing the master cylinder. Can you give me any sugguestions? all 4 wheels are locking up and the mechanic I took it too said it needs to be replaced. Thank you.
Tnks for nice vedio. In my vehicle when i apply break hard in a slope around 30 seconds(100m) suddenly i lost break completely in two occasions. But after that break works properly. Can you kindly assist me to diagnose this matter please.
How do you check the abs on failure? My mastercylinder is just feeding the abs unit but abs does not pump it to my right caliper. My first gut feeling was the mastercylinder because also i saw a rusted bolt where the brakeline enters the last last part of the cylinder the second piston i mean. From there it gos to the abs unit, i opened the rusted bolt/brakeline to see what would happen, only when i took out the bolt completely, the brakefluid started to come out. when i opened the non rusted bolt it just took a few notches with the wrench and it started to flow with much more pressure so i imediatly closed it again. Now ive never done this before and i know i need to bleed the whole brake system now. But isnt there suppose to be more pressure on the end part of the mastercylinder? I was hoping the tell without taking out the mastercylinder but because i am starter my knowladge on cars isnt that high yet.
When i stop for a while, my pedal does not necessarily go to the floor but slightly moves inwards then immediately feels hard and vehicle starts moving by itself. What could it be?
Hello I have a crown Vic 2001. When I drove down a hill. I. Pushed the brake it seems like the pedal went close to the floor. And sometimes when backing on a dip. Parking spot. When I hit brake it seem like kept moving can somebody help me out
how do I *identify* what master cylinder I need? The one in my 23 T bucket is worn out... but I don't know how to match up a new one, since I didn't build the thing.
Hi Bryan and John. You have great videos. But regarding breaking. I have a Chevrolet Trax 2014 FWD 1.7 TD. And for 1,5 years nobody has diagnosed My issue right. There is no computer signal or error code that shows up. But My front right and rear back brakes are randomly staying pushed against the rotors whenever the brakes are used. Even it is just once. The weird thing is, it's not all the time like that. It comes and goes randomly. Everything from the hoses, to the brake lines to the saddle and supports, rotors and disks are changed out. The main vacuum pump has been checked and is OK. The ABS fuse has been tested. Meaning it has been taken out to see if it's an ABS or EBCM issue. But the issue still was there. So we put back the ABS fuse. And no one got wiser :( The vacuum membrane has not been looked at and it seems that no one here in Estonia is qualified to do that either. Not even the Chevrolet dealers mechanics at Autospirit nor Opel dealers mechanics have identified the issue correctly. They just keep changing out parts but not diagnosing the underlying issue at all. Do you have come across an issue like that? Any advice?
Just some suggestion I'd look into I'd recommend changing your brake calipers first off cause sounds like the pistons are sticking a little and if its not that I'd try changing the whole ABS unit out.
Jesus Christ somebody make an automotive yt channel that just does the work without all the pathetic pandering and cultist yt ritual begging for views.
Here's the link to the second part, for those of you unable to do a simple search. You're welcome! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HjFg41AjHIU.html
