Worth mentioning that retraction speed also making a huge difference. We definitely need an extra fields in that Orca calibration tool, where you would be able to test retraction speeds as well.
@@Valerie_is_doing_stuff manual way will be to change retraction and deretraction speeds in filament setting or printer setting and test range of distances.
If you're still having issues, look at your retraction speed. I found some years ago that in an effort to reduce stringing it got worse when i switched filament types, it took me a few days to figure out why. It turns out that the filament will want to separate if you retract too fast and leave filament at the tip to ooze out. There are a lot of settings i wish where in different categories in OrcaSlicer, such as some retraction settings that IMO should be under the filament profile. Maybe still keep the settings in there place but add an over-ride section in the filament profile
I'm starting to lean to humidity in my situation. For example, I've run the retraction model for my current Polymaker Polyterra batch and I - like what you saw - get no stringing. I've used the full gamut of temps (200 - 230) and retractions from .4 to 1.0 mm. No stringing. However, when I print a larger model (taller than 150mm), I get wispy stringing on edges and small hops (
Great tutorial and so glad you mentioned temperature, because that is the key for my printer. I use .8 retraction and never mess with it. If I start to see stringing with a particular filament, I just lower the temp by 5 C and that usually is enough to fix it. I am curious what percent humidity you like to see your filament at? I have actually seen stringing increase when I dried filament too much, which just made my head hurt to be honest. I suppose I just needed to lower the temp even more. This is one those issues that has so many variables there is no "one weird trick" but you did a great job covering all of those.
Is the recommended order for the tests: Temperature calibration > Flow rate calibration > Pressure advance tuning > Retraction test > Max flow rate test?
Nice work, I agree with you comment about the built in test in Orca, it does make it super quick , The PA test are some much more convenient.. thanks for more great content.
I actually found retraction speed can pretty significantly impact things like over or under extrusion before or after a retraction move. So if you have unexplained spots in your print where everything looks good, but then there are tiny pin holes or spots that look not as filled in as they should, you can change the retraction speed. Some filaments are temperamental, and the speed will affect how long the nozzle stays in one place before the retraction is complete. So if you have a high speed, the nozzle will complete the retraction move fast and the pressure in the nozzle will not be relieved before the nozzle moves around. And if the speed is too slow, the nozzle hangs out in a spot for too long. Oozing filament and too high of a temperature of the nozzle can exacerbate this. Also, sometimes the retraction speed and de-retraction speeds need to be set slightly differently from one another. It just depends on the extruder, nozzle, temp, filament, print speed, etc... there are a lot of other factors to calibrate before retraction speed usually as a last step.
It definitely can. It basically affects how long there is pressure on the filament in the melt zone of the hot end. The faster you can retract the filament, the faster the filament is no longer sitting in the melt zone, and the the faster the pressure is relieved. So basically, faster retraction should result in less stringing, though obviously there are limits in terms of not degrading the material itself by grinding or stripping it.
I use only 0.2-0.5mm retraction distance for most of my filaments. I also use retraction speeds anywhere from 40-80mm/s without issue. There isn't a ton of time to accelerate anyways, but it still saves some time. Overall for most filaments 0.4mm at 60mm/s is going to be a safe bet in my experience. Obviously with particularly stringy filaments or something like TPU, you may need a bit more distance and a bit more or less speed. Good video overall!
The issue I have had with this and all Orca Calibration exercises is that is seems to be for smaller more standard nozzle sizes. I am working on dialing in a 1mm nozzle and am having a heck of a time with all the calibration settings.
Will you be doing a review of the Peopoly magento X? I would love to hear about your experience so far and hear your opinion on it! Been thinking about getting one, but there isn’t a whole lot out there about it right now.
There are so much move things which impacts stringing. Travelspeed, travel acceleration, z hop, z speed, z acceleration, different types of wipes, retract speed etc etc... M
I used this calibration test a couple of times, and i almost never get any stringing. Bit when i print an object, sometimes there is (some/a lot of) stringing. And when i print the object you show at 2:18 i always get stringing… So i find this test rather useless.
Is there a good test to calibrate extra prime amount? The retraction towers do not show under-extraction problems that happen when your retraction settings go too far in the other direction.
I have a QIDI printer and using the QIDI slicer sure doesn't have the features i see of so many other slicers. No test print settings for stuff like this
idk this test always shows perfect tresults on all retraction distances yet when i print smth the stringing may manifest itself terribly. I dont trust this test and use a different one that proved more precise, but requires a bit more trial and error.
@@MyLanista RU-vid erases links automatically, so it's the one you can find on printables from Idea Prints user with cylindrical and cone towers that prints in 3 minutes, no settings but it prints fast so you can adjust the distance and speed and reprint quickly, usually takes around 15 minutes to figure out the best settings and then it just works on other prints
You didn't mention what nozzle size and types your printers were using. In my experience that makes as big a difference as having the filament dried or not. For example, when switching from a 0.4 brass to a 0.6 copper nickel plated nozzle, it's practically impossible to eliminate stringing even with dried filament.
