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I actually trained to be a model in a very good model school here in my country in the 2000s, when being a model was a dream job, but thankfully I never got anywhere with it (my parents weren't willing to let me do unpaid jobs to "build my portfolio"). A few years later I met a friend that actually was an international model during that time and she told me all sorts of horror stories that were very common on the industry and to this day she still has deep psychological scars and frequently is on meds because of all the trauma being a model caused her, and I thank whoever is up there that I didn't experience that myself.
Oh, yes, I am witness to that as well. At that time we had a lot of cases when local model agencies would support and promote exceptionally beautiful girls, but everyone else would be softly pushed to work at different private events where guests would have I'd say *coughs* very different ideas about what model is supposed to do. For some time modeling had a very bad rep.
As someone who was a teen in 1998 the popular style was very…classy. Solid colors, fitted v-necks, “flattering” cuts and colors, neutral but darker makeup, pretty but grown up. The style immediately after was very bright, flippant, silly, party-ish (think early 00s hair flip, lacy tanks, pastels).
I was 16/17 in 98 and I was wearing my Levi silvertabs, navy gap hoodie, and vintage Ruth bowling shirt from Sunset Bowl in York, Nebraska. 😂 I loved my just below waist wide bootcut CK jeans, Yink Drink Dr Seuss baby tee and Candies red leather boots. I wore my Express fitted tops, matching cord jumper dresses and thigh highs with Candies wooden clog heels. I also enjoyed going full Gap with my fave OD green bodysuit, flat front khakis,a matching scarf (all from gap) tied on my neck, and combat style boots. One time, I felt particularly awesome and wore my mom's 70s pink polyester bellbottoms and matching pink and grey cropped button up sweater that my dad bought her while they were dating. I didn't have a single style. I wore whatever the heck I liked! I loved the 90s.
@@MrsBrit1 So stylish! So experimental! I'm a wee bit younger so I didn't really get to experiment with 90s fashion at the time - I was just a kid - but I am now thoroughly enjoying it. Somehow my personal style is either 1300s, 1890s, 1950s or 1990s. Medieval dress one day, bowling shirt and mom jeans the next, my mum's vintage clothes the 3rd day, my gran's the 4th, late Victorian walking suit the 5th.
During the 1990s I was working toward developing a career in business administration. Every year around November I bought my business attire for the year. Evan Piccone suits were my favorites: Expensive with wonderful fit. My favorite shoes were a pair of wine leather Candies peep-toed shoes with stacked leather heels. Sueded silk was big, I had a black suit jacket with matching cullottes (baggy long shorts, really) that I wore with a white silk shell and wide leather belt. I kept a few pieces from my 1990s wardrobe as reference garments, every one of them could be worn today and not appear dated.
About the spectators being under-dressed by today's standards, it was considered rude to outdress the show. So you might see some wealthy people there, but they're in rather plain clothing to be respectful. And, honestly, I prefer that to having attention hogs like the Kim Kardashian and other so-called "influencers" taking up more of the visual space of a show. It's hard to have a show that's only about your current designs when someone shows up in a totally different piece that takes up a ton of room AND they're seated in the front row. I've seen some designers be very diplomatic, but I wish they would have and enforce a dress code again. In the 80s, the runway was closer to the old style of runway, where the audience used to interact with the models to see the designs up close. Sometimes they would even ask the models if they were comfortable, or liked the color! The 90's saw designers moving the models away from the audience (some of that due to serious bad behavior, often on the part of male spectators), but still feigning that sense of personal interaction. A lot of these shows featured acting to have the audience feel like they were watching a movie or television show, removing the personal element but keeping it familiar. Shows just left the personal behind as more journalists had access to high quality digital cameras and people could see all the detail of a piece from the comfort of a website. I honestly hope that models having more joy in a show comes back. It's off-putting to see all these blank faces (and a lot of people look menacing with a blank face) marching up and down a runway- many of them devoid of even a signature walk. There's a lot of nastiness still present in the fashion industry, and that includes treating models like coat hangers instead of people.
Kylie Jenner in the lion head moment was honestly disrespectful to the show since the dress she wore was the show's closing look they could've left that a surprise have given it to her later
I was just telling my husband that! Like why are people using fashion shows to be seen? That's definitely not the point of a fashion show. I'd say it's comparable to trying to outsing the opera singer in an opera house.
I used to work in a wholesale showroom at the Los Angeles Apparel Mart (oh my goodness... the clothes we bought off the sample racks). Many of the buyers who came in for a private viewing of current collections were the conservatively dressed people sitting in the front rows of the runway shows. 😉
I was just saying similar in another comment. Designers wanted blank clones as models in the 2000’s, which was a really bad choice that killed much interest in the industry. Then instead of going back to super models, they went with the terrible decision to bring in tacky influencers, which was so wrong. They even bring small children or pets for photo ops. They’re all so desperate for attention. It’s such a turn off.
I wanna see cool fashion shows again! I know the argument of “it’s to show off the clothes and not the model” and I suppose it’s valid but to me, drama makes the clothes shine so much brighter x
It's crazy how every show is trying to impress with staging/background/music/concept design novelties but then the models all walk and emote the same 😭
This! Or just in a while some shows that really makes you wonder how you would look in one of those outfits. For example I really like browsing clothes on Taobao because the models make the dresses look really cute and makes me think how pretty and cute I would look like in one of those dresses. The big fashion shows don't do that for me 😅
@@phirion6341 It's because they're meant to be essentially living hangars for the clothes they're showing off. I'm actually serious here and not just saying this.
I swear they think we have absolutely zero creativity to be able to envision ourselves in clothes worn by someone with sass or personality. Me personally, I want to envision myself with spunk or as a bad ass bitch, if you will. Can't do that with someone who looks miserable on the runway.
He did a lot of the concept design in addition to the fashion and it gives the movie such a different, timeless vibe. I live it so much. Nothing else looks like it.
Runway fashion low-key died with Gianni Versace. Old designs used to be something that makes a regular person want to save up to buy it, or even replicate the pattern/silhouette by making it yourself. I don't think many regular people are saving up to buy these hideous looking collections that designers put out nowadays. Where would you even wear them to? I still appreciate the designers that make wearable pretty clothes today, but usually, they're not that popular
Well, one can always wear one's Balenciaga gimp mask when one appears on conspiracy podcasts to espouse one's love for Hitler. You know... Normal people stuff.
Most collections will have a good blend of wearable and statement pieces. Even Schiaparelli - who at their core are a very surrealist fashion house - make gorgeous wearable pieces. I've been following most major houses in recent years and have found at least a couple of outfits I would wear in each of them. And as someone who makes her own clothing sometimes, I am definitely inspired by their work.
"Why would you say something so contraversial yet so brave?" or whatever the saying is😂 I still watch Gianni's shows, nothing wrong per say with what's happening with Versace now. I'll still glance at the screen during runway shows from the 2020s / late 2010s ,however, 1988-1998 shows kept me LOOKING at my screen. My faves from that era being Prada, some Calvin Klein, Dior, Versace and some Chanel (especially when Karl Lagerfield first hopped on because he was pushing for press and man were they talked about lol). Ralph Lauren shows were also quite relaxing (still are but like I said the 90s pieces keep me glued to the screen while I crochet). So while I don't ✨hate✨ anything now, maybe the late 80s / 90s were just more whimsical? Gianni's pieces were GORGEOUS though, his style was romantic even when it was daring or toe-ing the line of "edge-y" lol. All this gushing is brought to you by fashion documentaries and runway shows being available on RU-vid for me to watch back to back for months ... No I do not know what my next fixation will be 😅
@Gugunet26 I recently saw a video of a model struggling to walk with a huge coat that was probably 200 lbs. The coat was so ugly, and the poor girl gave up on it in the middle of her walk. Why is that even a thing?
Damn, I miss RU-vid tag chains, because more than anything right now I want to see HauteLeMode and Mina Le each make their own video about their favorite runway year 🥺 and we could have such a nice time together across all the comment sections
I recently followed a 1990s fashion photo tumblr and I'm seeing so many iconic designs from designers I've never even heard of. I mean it's not all amazing, there was still a lot of blah, mostly in RTW, but the models all seemed so iconic and had actual personalities where now that seems discouraged for the reasons named in this video.
Honestly, I almost entirely agree - with the minor change that my 'year' would probably be around 1990-1992 because that's when Naoko Takeuchi (author of Sailor Moon) did her research and pulled some ICONIC looks from the runways to add to her manga. But I am biased because... Sailor Moon. For those interested, Princess Serenity's iconic dress is actually called the Palladio dress, designed by Gianfranco Ferre for Dior in 1992.
Back in the late 90s, I was (10 yo at the time) accidentally tuned in Fashion TV at my friend's house which was also a cafe. What I saw first thing was a butt-naked male model with one black long coat holding his junk walking confidently on the runway. Everyone at the cafe were like WTF?! and laughed so hard. My friend and I are still bringing this dude up during our conversations to this day. lol
There is currently an exhibition at the Palais Galliera in Paris called "1997 Fashion Big Bang" that states exaclty the same thing, they even say that 1997 can be considered as the beggining of 21st century fashion. So your point is museum curators approuved !
My mum was in the fashion industry in New York in the 90s, around this time, working with Anna Sui in her design studio. I was talking about this video to her, and she’s started telling me all about what the scene was like back then, such as with her celebrity/supermodel boutique in Anna Sui’s design studio, or what the parties or runway shows were like in person, which is actually really interesting. She has a lot of cool stories from back then, such as that time with Kate Moss and a monkey, or the Versace party where she met RuPaul.
Yes! As a kid I'd watch a lot of TV, and fashion shows were one of the things that were always running on one of the few channels we had back then. I'd actually love watching them, all the beautiful women... Nowadays there's that dedicated fashion channel (Fashion TV?) that mostly shows off modern stuff and occasionally clips from fashion shows. It's so boring. But they used to have a 90's segment - at 4 in the morning, for some reason - and the difference was just so noticable! I could watch those 90's segments forever. Then they went and removed the segment entirely. 😠
I absolutely love you… As an almost 60 year old who loves fashion shows, this was absolutely fascinating. Thank you for all of your work and extraordinary commentary!❤🎉
Oooh my Fashion TV moments are coming back to my mind😭😭 I vividly remember coming home from shopping, turning FTV on and putting on a whole ass fashion show to my dad😭
Oooh 1998! I was a senior taking a fashion illustration class and got my first Vogue subscription. IT. WAS. INCREDIBLE. The construction. The art. The hype. We also had Fashion Television and you could watch all of the shows.
When it comes to Galliano, you can’t deny his past and problems, and not being blind by his art and forget how he was (or is), but no one, and I mean NO ONE, can’t deny that his era at Dior is untouchable. Few couturiers nowadays match his levels, and most of the ones that do, are retired or in a better life (Lee McQueen and Thierry). I still go back to his show from time to time, and even watch the documentaries on how a single piece was created. Simply put, Galliano is THE couturier of this century.
Hello! I'm a fashion illiterate, and I would really like to know what's wrong with designers getting inspiration from other cultures. Isn't it a good sign that the designer actually appreciates the culture and uses it for their work? Wouldn't using only inspiration from Western cultures be the Eurocentrism that everyone seems to be scared of these days?
@@sambilek72 when it comes to fashion, at least the way that I see it, more times than not, designers use other cultures a a gimmick. Yes, they bring awareness to the vast and richness of our world and how many societies, cultures and beauty has developed in centuries along side each other. But at the same time, most designer just go to the basic, meaning, they do little to no research as to why X, Y or Z has a cultural significance and most go the cliche route. Add to that, 80-90% of the models de use, when doing a collection inspired by non western cultures, are of western descent, mostly American (the continent), or European, and if they truly wanted to highlight a cultural influence, they would use models of that culture as a majority or more prominently. Add to all that, the religious and political significance of some styles and why it shouldn’t be used lightly, for fashion, and it gives another whole layer of problems. And for those who read this, once again, this is me trying to summarize the many problems that using other cultures in fashion, when you’re not from that culture, could bring in a personal opinion. Hope this helps you Sam.
Thank you for this! Been seeing yours and others videos on the body becoming the fashion, and I really feel this happened in the mid to late 90s. In the 80s it was still about color and fabrics and clothing shape, but by the end of the 90s, it really became about the body itself, midriffs, low cuts, short skirts that you had to be a specific thin to wear. Fascinating to see how we re-assess these looks!
I’m probably older than you and very much disagree that the body became part of fashion only in the nineties. At least in the 20th century, the body and various shapes was always part of fashion. Speaking especially of high fashion just in the eighties, as opposed to what the average person wore, there was a big influence of the different shape that had become popular. Skin tight, Lycra looks were big. Open plunging backs. Tiny tight minis. Cleavage. A big trend was giant garments that could reveal various toned, bare parts. Models like Cindy Crawford, who was fashionably athletic and big, were always in magazines showing off bronzed bodies in slick cloths. What most think of as 80s, was not close to high fashion.
The late '90s, when supermodels ruled the world, the VH1 Fashion Awards were a thing, and, most important of all, the Delia's catalog. Seriously though, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier 1998 collections are the peak of fashion for me
Do you, or anyone, remember the name of another catalog that was basically just like Delias? It’s making me crazy because I can’t remember. I bought stuff from both. They looked a lot alike. Delias was a bit more flowers and quirky font on every page. But the clothes and prices were similar.
Haven't watched this all yet, but the answer to the title is "no"-- but only because Iris Van Herpen has been single-handedly carrying the high fashion world on her back (we have no choice but to stan). Check out "Sensory Seas" or "Earthrise".
For more structured dramatic fashion shows without being too modern artish, I have been watching shows from Chinese brand heaven gaia. It seems like a nice balance between Chinese traditional dress with western formal wear silouettes. (disclaimer being extent to my knowledge is asian dramas I watched growing up) Plus I just love me some light flowy fabrics, pleats, and different colors without going full on neon.
The 1990's as a whole were a vibe. Something happened in 1999 that just made everyone give up - good TV programming, good fashion, good music, etc. I wonder if the nosedive in fashion presentation could also be traced back to the Writers' Strike? 🤔
I liked the slip dress...which was actually a dress. Taking the trend and literally just wearing a (fairly transparent) slip doesn't quite do it for me
I watched Mugler’s 1995 show SO MANY TIMES during lockdown! It’s beautiful!! 😍 If the house has models like Dominique Jackson right now, they need to bring back those looks!
I graduated in 1998 and loved studying fashion while in high school thanks to magazines like Seventeen and Vogue. I drew many fashion sketches at the time. It's so validating to have someone else recognize this period in fashion, I've always thought a lot of it was special. There were a lot of classic lines and interesting looks (like black paired with pastels) that I still love. ❤
As a 90s preteen, I spend so many Saturdays and Sundays watching FashionTelevision with Jeannie Baker that was just all fashion shows. I have so much nostalgia for this over the top and yet bizarrely wearable era.
The 1920s/30s Dior and 1930s Galliano inspired shows... be still, my heart! But yes, the shows were SHOWS. Sigh. Very enjoyable video, Ms. K. Thank you!
Love to see your appreciation for the runway models. Those models had to do ALL the things. And the front row crowds, wow, not a thirsty celebrity in the place!
The 90s was when fast fashion and really cheap out sourced clothing came on the market so there was a lot of competition happening. Most of the people in the front rows were manufacturers representatives trying to figure out what they could use to sell the next season in a cheap simplified version.
@@froggy9191 it started long before that, it just accelerated then due to trade agreements that broke down tarrifs. In the 60s a cheap plain dress cost me about $25. That was a week of groceries for 2 people plus spending money for a dinner out and some lunch and bus fare. In the 90s you could get a similar dress for ... $25. And in the 90s that would not get you a week of groceries for 2.
That's funny because in Paris there is an exhibition dedicated to the year 1997, and how it revolutionize fashion ! I strongly suggest you go and visit it if you can
How interesting. I wasn't paying direct attention to fashion by that point, but the real stars made it into mainstream media too. Now I think you have to search for the innovative designers.
Galliano was and is brilliant designer.. even though our thoughts about other things are not in line. :) late 90s/millenium was really good time in fashion, but of course I might be a little bit sentimental because that was my late teens and early 20s :D Good times
1998 was not one or two designer having the best collection it was many designers giving good fuckin collection that it is hard to choose the best and honestly agree but i do think interactive fashion shows are going to come back? because i see a lot of hype around it recently
I Wonder what you’d think about Iris Van Herpen’s “Sensory Seas.” I really like what she does in general, but this was so different from anything I’ve seen and so evocative.
I have watched you since WAY back now (my husband died week before last and I’ve been reminiscing) him and I, being a gay couple… we sorta turned the RU-vidrs that we constantly watched our family because you all were there with through so much … and I find myself wanting to say something only realizing you have no idea who we are …. So now I’m sitting here on my birthday and I needed something to occupy my mind so I decided to write this anyhow to let you know that John suddenly died and Joey is trying to manage… thanks for all of your hard work and amazing times you spent entertaining us!
I do agree quite a bit, but I wish to give some credits to f/w 2005-2006. So many beautiful collections. That whole season was dark romantic, elegant, extra, elaborate and fashionable. Fantastic haute couture by Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior, Schrerrer, Givency, JP Gaultier, George Chakra, Franck Sorbier and many more, too many to mention. In other years I have seen many individually beautiful and sometimes epic collections ^^ But yeah, 1998 was a great fashion year (& 90s as era), thank you for the video ^^
I appreciate that you highlight both sides of the 90's fashion culture. There were some high fashion that were indeed exquisite, mostly due to referencing earlier historical eras like the 30's and 40's, but there was also that 90's - and I'll argue this was the bigger part of it - that was simply the origin of our own aesthetically uninteresting, lack of silouette, ugly, anemic and worn out present.
I am hopeful though for the future (as long as we don’t fall into fascism and war). The younger generation just hitting their 20s seems to actually be doing some original, interesting things like I haven’t seen for 20 years. In the past year I really see creativity going on in the streets and signs high fashion is becoming interesting again, slowly.
As a non native english speaker i always struggled to say the 1990's years because it ends up coming out as "ninyniny" and for that reason i never talk about the 90's
I remember that in 1998 there was a heavy influence of the sixties and seventies. The thing I liked most was that black and burgundy and earth tones were everywhere and those colors make anybody look good.
As a teenager in the 90s I remember reading Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, being amazed by watching the runway shows on Fashion TV and wishing I could afford couture! Used to buy from opshops and try (try and fail mostly) and put outfits together along with sewing, inspired by Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, etc I don't think current runway shows or fashion will ever get to the height of the late 80's but am sure there are some amazing innovative designers out there to revive the theatrics of it! It's a pity celebrities and reality tv 'stars' have completely infiltrated fashion and taken away that magic, the 90s supermodels are impossible to top imho, so so many of the models now are boring and nepo kids. Forgot to add, 90s music like grunge and other alternative music really seemed to influence fashion too, lots of rock stars dating/hanging out with models 😁 The runway crowd were there to see the star of the show (the clothing) not to be the main spectacle...now it's the opposite.
Also Karolina, it's interesting that the major American fashion magazines in the 1990s had the most beautiful and uncluttered covers since the 1950s. By the aughts, the ugly overly wordy, truly badly designed covers from the 70s and 80s were back again, but not so much emphasis on the full face shot. And keep in mind that there was a major shift in culture around 1989 to the beginning of the 90s. The bad synth-pop of 80s was out and the darker, more intense music of the of the early 90s scenes was in. The fashion world didn't really know what to do with it. "Grunge fashions" were a total oxymoron. But nevertheless from the classic supermodels of the early decade to the waifs of the later decade, and the very fact that we actually knew the names of the models, all connected to this cultural moment. Later the fashionistas would move towards using celebrities more. The word supermodel was eventually debased in public parlance to simple mean any well paid model, regardless of the fact that by mid-way through the 00s most people couldn't name a young well known model. But the 90s was certainly an interesting time for culture, before the teen culture arising at the end of the decade, and the manipulated idol worship of celebrities (I'm looking at you Britney.) totally swamped the boat.
I haven't watched the video yet and I FEEL SO SEEN! I tried talking to my friends about the Dior 1998 Spring collection, but they don't see the appeal that I do 😩
In Context of that video I highly recommend the 90's fashion exhibition they have atm at the fashion museum Palais Galliera in Paris. It explains what happened this year's and what impact it had. Also the "soundtrack" on Spotify is just perfect.
I started watching you a long time ago, and I remember you saying that you didn’t do ads or were contemplating doing ads. I am really happy you are getting your bag! I love you content. You deserve it.
Wo wo woow the show✨ must come back!! Not only is more fun for everybody but it could create a different performance art in between modelling and acting and help to create a framing narrative that just makes everything better. The way it works right now I feel is a bit boring and sometimes hard to keep up? Like many times clothes look like variations on a theme and models just blur into each other.
All true. I got so swept up in the opulence of watching these shows on the Style network back then that I thought *I* was fashionable, meanwhile, I sitting there in clothes from Wet Seal or the thrift shop. It was the best escapism.
Just visited palais galleria museum with their exhibit all about 1997 and why it was so impactful in fashion. I think it was really the 1996 - 1999 collections that changed things.
Get out my head 😂 I’ve been scouring images of a 98’ Dolce and Gabanna show! And I got caught up in other shows from 98 so good. Allegedly the coat Madonna is wearing on her ROL (released in 1998) album is D&G and I’m obsessed! Looks like a ruched vinyl trench with a silk lining, so f@cking sick
I was majorly into fashion at that time yet only recently learned that apparently designers got annoyed that models became so popular. Many supposedly felt the models drew more attention than their clothes. So that is why in the 2000s they became so generic and interchangeable. They just wanted clothes hangers instead of people with personalities. That allegation really seems valid to me as a bystander. I do think this partly helped kill high fashion as an industry. And having celebrities in the audience, often very tacky ones with big followings, is a major misstep. Plus so many models now can barely walk or move with interest. It’s such a hot mess. It’s very sad. Also thank you for including the problematic aspects of this period as well.
Incredibly happy I'm not the only one who feels this way about 1998 runway. We won't be seeing anything like that again. Everyone is either very poor or very rich, the economy collapsed, there's no room for extravagance, and fashion is white beige or black. I noticed smaller creators like Meadham Kirchhoff or Selkie are doing small fun runway but nothing like this.
There is currently an exhibition at the Musee de la Mode in Paris about the year 1997, titled "1997, Fashion Big Bang", which tries to show how some very important shows and change in personnel in 1997 had a huge impact on the years after and a phase of golden age for the fashion industry.
Ahhh hello there meme mom! Always a pleasure to see a notification for your videos! Lots of love from Greece 💜 Dora (and btw I'll make a doll of miss Tatternickle)
Turning 40 this year, so speaking from experience - When the currently young people (sub 25) wear "90's" style, they are really wearing early-mid 90's, the grunge, the brown makeup, the chokers. By '99 the ghost of things to come was already there, with the heinous boot cut pants, crooked sperm eyebrows, and shiny satin button downs. 1998 however, even at the time I noticed that it was like an apotheosis of fashion; thanks to Titanic evening wear had become exquisitely elegant and pre WW1 inspired. Pencil skirts with tall gorgeous boots, and long shaggy hair were in, and MAC was at the height of its power (3 words- Spice lip pencil). While you won't catch me wearing any of the 90's nightmares that seem to be happening again, I would happily return to pencil skirts, sexy boots, and ball gown skirts with little sweaters for evening wear.
While I'm not as learned on fashion terms, and I don't think I have a critical knowing eye for style differences, I would definitely agree with everything you said here. I just remember watching fashion shows with my Aunt sometimes (as she loved fashion and modeling), and I just remember them being an experience at this time. They were pretty entertaining, even for me.
Considering Madonna's album Ray of Light, and Tori Amos's album From the Choirgirl Hotel plus lots of amazing music was released in 1998 everything peaked then went to shit
If you look at what Caroline Bessette Kennedy (wife of JFK Jnr) wore, it's still stylish and timeless to this day. Whereas some 80s or 2000s stuff looks ridiculous
I sometimes forget about all the weird orientalism the 90s was obsessed with. Cheongsam collars everywhere. Hair chopsticks. Twin buns. Every teenage dude going to a party wearing a Chinese dragon on his (untucked) shirt. Then we all just collectively agreed never to talk about it again, which is probably for the best tbh.
Can't argue with the more overt stuff (especially those weird backless tops) but I miss the intricate small-scale prints you could find sometimes. I still own a cadet blue boatneck top with drifting clouds and dragons on it, and it always makes me feel pretty.
The models were actually interesting back then! I feel like they really understood the clothes and brought something unique to the runway and to the general excitement of the show. When i was young i would binge watch WWD tv and watch all the shows and knew all the models names. Now i very rarely keep up with any shows, very few models bring anything special, it's just not exciting anymore.
