Did SLA Printers win the tabletop war? (not yet) 

Hey man, you got the STL Files for that baneblade? I would love to have it as I am just getting into 3d printing because my work allows us unlimited free access to their 3d printers, on the weekends only) A link would be much appreciated!

@@helpmepls7154 bump

Did you ever find it?

He has not replied to any requests, my guess is that GW slapped him hard for it. lol@@helpmepls7154

Exactly. If you have an Independent dual extruder printer you can do two at the same time if they both fit on the build plate. It's about creativity and also affordability GW is insane with their pricing.

Show her the math of how much money you can save

better to ask forgiveness than permission...an age old saying:) I bought my SLA when on sale on Amazon recently and now want a FDM unit as well.

I went ahead and bought a resin printer cause I know it will get a lot of use for my prototyping of smaller more detailed parts that my fdm is having a hard time doing. There are far more options right now for resin printers and the price is actually far below than the more expensive fdms. I love my fdm's but there are models I need to print with high detail.

my wife reversed into my car on the drive. I shamelessly used the 'pain' to guilt her into getting a resin printer. As the song says 'love is a battle field !' lol :)

Omg I don't care about your lifestory

@@justicedemocrat9357 Is that the best troll you got? I got over that method 6 years ago LOL

@@stonerayven2455 You're not worth even a shit troll job.

@@ignaciasd1198 Go to bed, kid.

Thats cool, i got a ender 3 and started experimenting and lately ive been dabbing into miniatures too even when i dont play but i still have problems with little prints, specially if they are detailed

Can you recommended what filament work great? I looking to buy a ender 3 v2 soon.

@@nanowar1192I use NEEMA EVO line from Netherlands, works great and has large variety of colors

but then you need 2... now, I'm wondering, since filament is cheaper, is the money you save by using filament enough to justify getting 2 printers?

@@amaurythewarrior Sure it is.

@@amaurythewarrior the issue is filament is that much cheaper and you tend to get a little bit more out of resin.

Thanks Danny!

Gotta use the best tool for the right piece, then mix it all together! Gets the best results.

Exactly. SLA printers compliment FDM printers they don't replace them. Plus I've been 3D printing for years and I never get bored of watching an FDM printer at work.

@@edstar83 I don't even want to know how much time I wasted watching a printer working, lol.

Both definitely have their uses, and I don't think that either one "kills" the other. Neither are redundant or obsolete technologies. One is a knife, the other is a screwdriver. Sure, you can turn a screw with a knife, but it will be suboptimal... And it will be equally suboptimal to try to butter toast with a screwdriver. Generally - if you're aiming to make minis, I would say that a resin printer should be your first acquisition, as they are easier to use, require less tuning, have fewer variables, and make much more detailed and high-resolution prints with a very high degree of reliability. This works well for D&D miniatures, WH40k miniatures, KOW miniatures, and several other games. Additionally, most of the minis released through the likes of Loot, Myminifactory and Cults3D tend to expect that you're going to be printing them from an SLA resin printer. At a later date, if you find yourself wanting to make vehicles and terrain on a more regular basis, feel free to reach for an FDM model. I use an Ender 3, which is an entry-level, cheap FDM printer model that will give pretty decent results if you aren't worried about a few defects. I mostly use it for cosplay elements, and I can attest that it works spectacularly in that role. The larger print bed is definitely a huge plus. Additionally, I tend to find that well-printed FDM components are noticeably (but not massively) more durable than their resin counterparts. a 2mm thick, 3 inch long, 1 inch wide strip of printed resin takes significant and deliberate effort to break with your fingers. It does not yield, and will suddenly just shatter. An FDM component of the same measurements will be impossible to break with your fingers. It yields slightly before snapping cleanly. Short version - different horses for different courses... But if your goal is to make minis, I would recommend an SLA. If you want to make cosplay elements or functional components, FDM is still king.

I second that I use mine for practical uses. I print combs, hooks, and the quality for stuff like stands, holders, and storage Cheap, convenient, and the filament lasts for a long time for me. There's no need for me to upgrade it.

@@yannickg6904 You watch because secretly your scared it will stop working and have a failed print and you might miss it. Same reason people watch Nascar. Hoping for a wreck. But not really but what if?!

Thanks Boylei. Can't wait for your next space western video! Cheers!

Right on!

@@KnarbMakes I can't decide if I should buy a cheap Anycubic or a cheap FLSUN. It's horrible.

Yep, it is not so much about choosing one or the other, their each have their strengths and weaknesses. Terrain and large vehicles are generally easy to print well on FDM printers, but if you are going to make anything smaller than a space marine dreadnaught, then you probably want to switch to resin.

disagree. it's purely cost. FDM is surely cheaper, but it's slower AND less detailed. The only reason my current terrain project isn't resin is because my bed is small. That's it. Given equal surface area, SLA not only prints with greater detail, but faster. And the cost isn't too much higher. The BEST option is framing in fdm, and attaching SLA detailed parts. Even then, you're not saving much as a hobbyist. talking change on the dollar for hours of time.

Filler primer and a bit of sanding always goes a long way! Cheers!

They both have their uses, yeah. Hope this helps you decide better, or just get both!

Happy printing!

when I get a printer can I borrow those files from you ease friend? ☆

Where do you find the files for these - completely new to this printing stuff

Thanks Andrew

Haha, I need to find a good name for it now.

Thanks Euan!

Unless you’d actually tell me I wouldn’t of been able to tell myself

I've been trying to re-slice and re-orient other models I find as well. I see a side that would look a ton better printed flat, I just slice it off and place it on the bed and glue it on later. Cheers!

@@KnarbMakes my top surface is always trash though. how do you improve this?

@@croggyjones7899 you can turn on ironing to improve it. Some slicers let you do this. I use prusa slicer for it

Thanks!

"... dirty and blobby..."; paint them glossy red, and they become GORECLAWS, drenched in the viscera of your foes.

Speaking of slicers, take a look at prusa slicer, it's free and can support many printers. The settings and features outshine cura in my opinion.

Welcome 😊

Yeah, best of both worlds!

Well said. I'm having fun finding good uses for each one and mixing up projects across both.

I honestly don't even care about layer lines; as for leveling, from experience it is usually because people will remove stuff while the print surface is still attached to the print bed. The result is the bed being jolted a bit out of level, but a bit out of level is all it takes. By taking the build tak or glass plate of metal plate off to remove the print you can go a while before needing to relevel.

Thank you!

yeah, i was just thinking priting a eldar tank would turn out pretty bad with all the shallow curves turning out like tiny steps. put printing those curves smooth should produce a much better result/

Yeah, I've had to devote a corner of my workshop and set up a fume hood for my SLA printer. Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Yep, some sanding and filler goes a long way! Sometimes layer lines can't be avoided.

Haha, of course!

Designing a tank isn't particularly difficult. With about an afternoon's tutelage, you could probably make a decent looking tank in about an afternoon. They're basically just a box. The skill is in making it look cool. :)

Haha! Each tool has it's place. Cheers!

For sure. I've had a lot of frustration with FDM printers in the past. It takes a bit of learning to figure out the failure modes. I still get some stringing, but I can mostly clean up the prints with a lighter and some light sanding.

Turn your nozzle temp down and enable combing mod for All within the slicer.

That's why they make stringing tests so you can dial in your settings to avoid stringing. Cura slicer has a built in extension that allows for this and works well. They also have a temperature test. You can use both on each filament you use to dial in the settings. It isn't difficult.

Lower the temp, increase cooling and dry your filament (if not using PLA)

I agree and really resin Printing is not much more expensive anymore perhaps 25-30% but the results are much better in my opinion plus I find resin Printing less of a hassle these days wth large format mono 4k printers and dedicated wash cure machines. FDM may not be exactly completely obsolete but it's just about there.. two years tops when medium format 8k printers price comes down. The industry is evolving quickly

Haha, Thanks Nick.

They take up an Ikea lack size space

Well said. Ive noticed a similar trend for my crafts as well.

*loses But yeah, I love resin printing…. Except for the resin…. It gets everywhere and it’s toxic.

Yeah, the constant maintenance can get tedious when you just want something printed. It's always a lot simpler to fix than I hype it up to be though, hah.

BL Touch is the best money you will spend for an Ender3. Also, I am sure you know, but make sure all the cams on the axis wheels are tightened correctly to remove the slop.

Yes, but it was sort of experimental (resin printed), there's a lot of flaws and support damage on it. I might crash it and turn it into a terrain objective.

Not sure, but I do need more tanks, haha. Stay tuned!