Would work great as in floor heating circulation. Even better if your diesel heater turns off and on. The floor could keep cycling the exhaust heat and work from a thermostat to turn off and on by itself.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make and upload this video. You would achieve greater efficiency of heat transfer by pumping the water through the copper pipe in the opposite direction. Heat always flows from an area of hot to an area of cold - therefore you want the cooler water extracting the heat from the cooler part of the exhaust nearer the outlet, and as the water flows towards the heater end, the exhaust is hotter - so it is capable of transferring more of its heat to the already warm water in the coil. It's the first rule of heat exchangers - always run the source fluid in the opposite direction to the sink fluid (regardless of whether the fluid is gas or liquid). What was the eventual exhaust temperature by the way?
Ya gotta store all that hot water into a tank, maybe 15-30 gallon if it can collect and retain that much storage. Hey, other wise your just wasting that heat to the outdoors. Great experiment. Great recycling.💫
41C=105.8F... so get a radiator & pump that water through it in the loop. simplest insulation outside is... make a sealed box, put the exhaust pipe & water loop pipe all the way through it [stops rusting too] then fill the box with builders or play sand,done.
A way to not have the pipe kink or collapse is to fill it with a mixture of powdered soap and water. Mix Ivory powder to make a thick slurry that just pours into the pipe filling it, then freeze the copper pipe before you bend ot around the former. After, let it thaw and run warm water through the copper pipe to rinse it out. I got this tip from someone who repairs expensive brass instruments.
Some people use fine sand to the same effect, but that's harder to rinse. However, I think the coil flattened because of the lack of water or sand internal pressure creates a better surface area and a much more efficient heat transfer.
Brilliant idea, just a question! If you did this internally and used 10mm pipe instead of 6mm then fitted a 10 mm valves to a small radiator would this work?
OK I've made a copper coil using 3.5m of tubing. On level 2 of my 2kW diesel heater, I can heat 1 litre of water from 10C to 16C in 10 minutes. I reckon I could double the length of tubing to get another few degrees, perhaps increasing the energy output by 50%. My aim was to use this heat to prevent our 100 litre water tank from freezing. I used a website to calculate the energy required to heat heat 1 litre of water from 10C to 16C in 10 minutes. The result was a 40W heat source. I reckon I could increase this to 60W. An electric water tank heater for a 100 litre tank uses 5A at 12V, giving 60W. So it might work, just. Quite a lot of work to insert a copper pipe into the water tank though. Has anyone tried this?
Thanks for the vid, confirmation that 6mm tube will easily wrap around the circumference of the exhaust. I'm going to attempt to connect the copper pipe to a radiator using a bigger pump, see how that goes. Shame you stopped the videos ☹️
you don't need a bigger pump as the radiator uses convection to move the hotter fluid up the radiator body. the most basic convection flow proof of concept without any pump is this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J7_848lKrc0.html Crazy DIY Mass Water Heating - Using a Rocket Stove
@@paulmaydaynight9925 Ahh interesting, cheers. I never thought about that. Unfortunately my heater will be mounted higher than the radiator so I will definitely need a pump. Maybe not as big as I thought. Would I small 12v work do you think? I have a big grundfos one normally used on boilers, but looking at your comment that will be massive overkill 😂
I just bought my all-the-rage-these-days diesel heater, but I must admit that I am quite disappointed at the inefficiency of the device. The exhaust pipe is indeed burning hot, it's like there is as much heat vented outdoors as indoors, at least at full blast (8kW heater). So recovering this wasted heat is a critical part of setting this heater up. I think the copper foil is overkill, though. I am rather thinking of replacing the cheap and probably easy to corrode exhaust pipe with a straight steel pipe over maybe 3 meters, inside a bigger steel pipe that will contain water or air to heat. I plan on integrating either the exhaust pipe or the water circuit into an inside wall to provide radiative thermal mass for a few hours after switching off the heater. The part that I like about this heater is that you can tinker with and customize it to your needs. It could be warming a room with the regular clean warm air outlet on one side and warming a green house with heat recovered from the exhaust pipe on the other side. Or a tilapia tank, an ice-free bird bath, a warm cabinent for bread dough proofing or yogurt making, etc. Still, I wish someone could make a 3D-printer plan for an integrated combustion chamber and heat transfer radiator big enough to capture most of the heat generated. It's really much simpler and safer to have only one hot air exhaust, especially the model that's sold as a supposedly ready-to-use metal case (with the useless low case feet).
One thing to keep in mind, is that whatever you connect to the exhaust must not restrict the flow of exhaust gas...even a little bit. I tried running the exhaust through a heater core and found black smoke coming out the other end. The burner was running rich. This is why I like the idea of the copper coil picking off the heat from a straight exhaust pipe.
@@weldandcutdotcom Agreed, I do not plan on impeding the exhaust flow in any way, nut on doubling the exhaust pipe with a bigger pipe or tank through which I could run water, which captures heat more efficiently than air. Same principle as the copper coil heat exchanger, but with a cheaper stainless steel pipe that does not require meters of expensive copper and twisting work. I'll probably replace the current cheap exhaust pipe with a solid stainless steel one too. I do not trust it to not corrode or leak air or water, it's so thin and fragile.
Imagine having a teg thermal plate in the snow and that bucket being metal on top of it you would produce electricity from that and then return power the diesel heater
Logically, you should take the output into the bucket from the hot end of the coil not the cooler end. Can't you just rn the stainless tube through a bucket ?
So it takes 1 hour of full blast on the heater to heat around 2 or 3 liter of water to 40 degrees? Hmmmmm.... where am I going to use that plentifull amount of hot water for....
Not really, when off the water goes below 20c and when using the full length of the exhaust it will get above 60c. It is no different than having a hot water cylinder at home.
If you think like that then never use your hot and could water at home. So if you use it for example to heat up your pool in summer on daily time there will be no problem at all. Come on man!
@David Tams hello David,how are you doing.hope just fine. I'm working in the healthcare area and we had some ligionella outbreaks back in the '90 in care complexes for our older citizens. So we have protocols for legionella. If you did research then you must know that the legionella bacteria need more time to grow. If you use it for example your pool in summer then first let I work 30 min on a riool so the water goes away. Make sure you Wath the temperature. It must be hot to kill legionella. But that you must do also in your own house. After that you can use it if you use it on Dailey base for example your pool in summer. I'm Dutch and our summer nights are not that warm so we can use it every day. Hope you see that I know what I write. Greets and stay away from govnerment jabs!
