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DIESEL HEATER INSTALL HACK!! EASY!

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ITEMS IN VIDEO BELOW….This easy diesel heater install hack can be done by most anyone. Minimal items needed, but each RV/camper may need a little more. Let me know your thoughts on this install..😀👍🏼 #rv #rvhacks #diy #hack #Ecoflow
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Опубликовано:

27 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 69

@johnnysweekends Год назад

What do you think about this install? Or what have you done? ITEMS IN VIDEO BELOW…… TopTess Detector Pen: amzn.to/3KfOgao Venty Fan: amzn.to/3XAGdYF Use coupon JOHNNYS save 10% on all orders at MaxPeedingRods USE CODE: bit.ly/3ijHViv Heater Mounted: amzn.to/3jM7f13 Heater Tall portable: amzn.to/3VN3aHn Heater Short portable amzn.to/3VHk3TD Extra heater Tube double Lengh: amzn.to/3kf7z97 Tube connector: amzn.to/3EgXFL4 Rv cable thru port: amzn.to/3kaY6jd Mini Thermometers: amzn.to/419gs4H Sure Can Diesel Can: amzn.to/3XMJcNQ Sure Can Gas Can: amzn.to/3ElhFMB Hole Saw: amzn.to/3Z43BiG CHECK OUT MY AMAZON STORE: www.amazon.com/shop/johnnysweekends Buy me a Coffee 👍🏼🙌🏼👊🏼😀 www.buymeacoffee.com/johnny5120J

@TNRonin 2 дня назад

The intake you breath is on the backside below the exhaust. Wind blowing the way it was initially was actually good.

@kimmer6 Год назад

I am planning to redo our old camper van as soon as it stops raining. I want the unit to sit on a bracket hung on the spare tire mount and blow through the left door, then get stowed inside the van when not used. The links to the hose, connectors, and cable door are very much appreciated. I have been using the ''No Spill'' 1.5 gallon fuel filler can indoors and really like it. For van use, it's a lot easier to lift and control and it completely eliminates any mess.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

Nice, sound like a great build. And yes nice to have links so you don’t have to go searching. When i watch a video and Im like “oh” im gonna grab that. And then no link..??? Im like ah man what is that thing called lol. 👍🏼

@wonderingBadger Год назад

Typically those heaters come with wiring that is of smaller gauge then it should have. Replacing the factory wiring (from power source to unit) with heavier gauge wire *should* give you higher voltage on your display, which also should slightly increase fan speed resulting in slightly better efficiency.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

Yea I thought about upping the gauge one size and once my storage area is done I’ll also make the wire shorter. It’s about 3 feet to long so that should help as well. But yea agree it’s a little on the small size from the factory.

@1FishinAddict 8 месяцев назад

One must understand electricity before giving advices. Voltage doesn’t change due to wiring size, but Amperage does. It helps to go to a lower gauge to help machine start up which draws 10amps max, but while running it’s barely reaching 1A draw (0.7-0.8A exact).

@rickbraden4272 Год назад

As a retired heating & cooling tech I don't know how you think it's cheaper to run your diesel heater compared to your propane furnace. Your propane furnace has a return air from inside your rv. Your diesel heater return air is outside the rv. That makes it very inefficient.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

It does make the diesel heater a little more inefficient which this was discussed in a previous post about running the intake/return inside the rv much like the main hose right at the same entry. How ever this is still cheaper and consumes way less power then the onboard system. On that same evening / I would have used about 3ish gallons of propane. Verses about 1 gallon or so of diesel. And at 25 watts on average on medium for 12 hours that would only be 300 watts. Which would have been even more efficient if I went direct to the battery verses the power station. The furnace would have used much more power clicking on and off two or three times per hour to hold the temp. And on medium low the diesel heater only uses about 16-20 watts and low about 10-12 watts. Which on those settings you cant touch it for fuel consumption and power draw. Obviously this big unit doesn’t help. But I may look into running the return inside the storage door. This would have much warmer temps then outside near the ground.

@Chinook__ 10 месяцев назад

Could take return air from inside with minor ducting?

@Knight0vvl 8 месяцев назад

RV furnaces don’t have a true return air, there’s just a vent that allows airflow to the basement area where the furnace is located. The furnace draws more cold air from the poorly insulated underbelly and so doesn’t draw the warm air in from the RV living area.

@Freedom17762 7 месяцев назад

The diesel heater can be set up to pull air from inside the cabin. Not only that but diesel puts out 138,690 BTUs per gallon and propane puts out only 84,250 BTUs per gallon. The diesel heater also draws far less power to operate than the propane furnace. I’m thinking of installing one as backup or supplement heat for my fifthwheel.

@Knight0vvl 7 месяцев назад

@@Freedom17762 that’s assuming you have an efficient diesel heater tho, these cheap Chinese ones are not nearly as efficient as a name brand real one. The propane furnace is also 12v same as the diesel heater the energy draw would be negligible

@kramerky Год назад

Great setup! I had a similar approach with this particular heater, keeping the unit outside while running a duct inside to my truck.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

That’s what I had set up for when I had my camper shell. Well I got a 5th wheel and my whole set up changed lol. Never even got to use it. But it was ready for testing 😀👍🏼

@Chinook__ 10 месяцев назад

For inside co I’d recommend CO Experts or low level co alarms. I wouldn’t ever put your meter straight into exhaust because it’ll wear sensor. Plus, low oxygen is something to note among many other measurements. I like videos.

@t-bfr45-70 8 месяцев назад

For a diesel system your pretty safe the CO out put is much less then something like propane. You will smell burnt diesel long before the co level is dangerous.

@richardduke9788 Год назад

I have a red(different name brand) that I use in a slide in pickup bed camper . Put the output hose in thecinspection door on the fender well . Works good 👍 .

@johnnysweekends Год назад

Ahh nice 👍🏼

@tuomasholo Год назад

This was very informative. Thanks for sharing.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

Your welcome, 👍🏼😀

@SaabAholic 7 месяцев назад

I’m going to add a diesel heater to my family of heaters. My trailer isn’t hooked up 30 amps, so I have to be careful when running my electrical system. I usually only heat the bedroom area. Nice set up Johnny!

@johnnysweekends 7 месяцев назад

I only heat my front area as well. Well try to move the air that way lol. I want to find a more direct route to front bed room and bath.

@SaabAholic 7 месяцев назад

@@johnnysweekends my bedroom area has a sliding window I can use for whatever set up I want. That would the simplest thing. 🤠🤙🏼

@johnnysweekends 7 месяцев назад

@SaabAholic I have though of that to but I don’t want a hole 😂

@SaabAholic 7 месяцев назад

@@johnnysweekends 🤠🤙🏼

@seekingadventures 10 месяцев назад

I might be wrong but are you thinking the intake filter/muffler on the small tube is the heat exchanger air that blows inside the trailer? That is the air intake for the combustion chamber. The heat exchanger air is in the end of the box, so I would keep the exhaust away from that end of the heater.

@johnnysweekends 10 месяцев назад

The small tube is the air intake with small foam filter inside. People suggested moving that inside storage compartment for a warm air intake for better efficiency

@seekingadventures 10 месяцев назад

No the small tube is for combustion air like an intake on an engine. The heat exchanger air is in the end of your unit with all the small holes. You had another video with a diesel heater without the metal case. One end of the unit is the 3” (or so) intake and the other is the output for the heat exchanger air.

@johnnysweekends 10 месяцев назад

@seekingadventures yes correct the small tube is the engine air intake. The heat exchanger is the larger are intake. If one or the other was bringing in a warmer air others suggested it would be more efficient. I don’t really want another hole in the bottom of the Rv large or small but I have thought of a couple ideas. Not sure I will do them but will see. I don’t know if that mod is needed anyway as the thing runs so hot as it is. I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt no matter which one you feed to a warmer area. Although on cool down the larger air intake would be better. On cool down the hose can get a little chilly for that last minute while it cools the heat exchanger.

@101perspective 5 месяцев назад

@@johnnysweekends I think his point is that you are sucking air into the heater not far from the exhaust. Air that will end up inside the vehicle. That said, the exhaust is hot and will probably rise before it reaches the intake... maybe... maybe not. It's been 4 months... are you still alive?

@johnnysweekends 5 месяцев назад

@101perspective Still here and used many times….I check and have monitors….😂 Im using the new one now.

@eldonrizzi3860 2 месяца назад

I’m going to install a diesel heater in my fifth wheel for hunting season. My furnace is in a very excessive location. Do you think it would be a good idea to install a “y” and plum in the heater not the duct lines under the belly?

@johnnysweekends 2 месяца назад

Your air handler can push much more than the diesel heater. And if you tie into the main heater lines you won’t be moving a ton of air. It would work but not sure how well. Also depends how big the trailer is

@theusconstitution1776 Год назад

Remember with the diesel heater outside it is warming 30° air whatever the outside air temperature is and blowing it into the building if you put that heater inside and vent the exhaust outside you will need a metal bulkhead to do that but then you’ll be heating 68° air so it will be easier for the heater to maintain temperature inside! If your thermostat or your furnace has a fan switch only while you’re running your diesel heater turn the fan on and that will distribute the heat from your diesel heater evenly throughout the home!❤️‍🔥🇺🇸

@johnnysweekends Год назад

I’m not sure how much of the video you watched but maybe that will explain some of my answers. Being that it’s a Rv, the inside fan consumes a decent amount of power. Which when dry camping you try to conserve your battery supply. So the small little rechargeable portable fans work killer and consume almost nothing. Being the “Rv” does not have really any desirable place to mount it inside the best and easiest option for install and maintenance is outside. Drawing the outside air which many portable diesel heaters are designed for still works really well. But agree it would be more efficient running it inside. I’ll be adding a longer intake hose to move it to that inside storage compartment. That will be several degrees warmer then outside on the ground where it is coldest

@Chinook__ 10 месяцев назад

Likely better to plumb return to inside to prevent these thermo on heat exchanger?

@vickiseaunier 6 месяцев назад

Thank you for the video. Great info. Do you know what size hole saw you used? I missed the info in your video.

@johnnysweekends 6 месяцев назад

I think it’s 4 inch but buy the port first and match it with that. My port was already there on that side.

@alzathoth 7 месяцев назад

Do you think a better idea would be to completely replace the propane furnace with the diesel heater?

@johnnysweekends 7 месяцев назад

No not for me and others I think would not be a good idea. You need the propane for heating the under belly in extreme cold temps unless you get a diesel heater with a couple hoses and heat the under belly that way. But I still use the furnace to kickstart the heater for the first maybe 10-15 minutes and heat the trailer then the diesel heater runs on medium or so and maintains

@b5856814 8 месяцев назад

I like the setup a lot but the purpose of the step vents are to heat the underbelly when it’s cold to protect water lines

@johnnysweekends 8 месяцев назад

I have heard so many reasons as to what they are for and they do nothing but loose heat and loose cool AC air. Your underbelly has its own heater tube from the furnace. You can track it. Which wont do much unless you really seal the bottom or run the furnace constantly. It’s also not a return and I have never seen it draw any vacuum as with any Rv many leak so bad from converter, underbelly walls, windows and more it will always have air. Plus a dedicated return is outside where the intake and exhaust it. Sealing these up will only keep the inside of your trailer warmer and cooler in the summer. You can feel it just sitting there if you test it.

@bengazzara1324 7 месяцев назад

I think that by setting it outside you’re losing a lot of heat and the intake is getting cold air instead of getting warmer air from inside.

@johnnysweekends 7 месяцев назад

Yes would be more efficient inside but still works great outside as well

@williamevery7464 Год назад

How hot do the plastic fittings get? I have seen videos where the hot air temps can get pretty high. From my experience, this looks like a great way to keep the over night temps acceptable without a lot of power draw and having the propane furnace waking you up. Have you considered piping it to the bedroom? I found that heating the main cabin during the day is not a big problem when you can wear more clothes and run the generator.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

I have ran the Diesel heater on high for hours at home testing it and then did several hours a couple times using the unit camping now. Even in this video i ran it for about 2 hrs on max. I thoughts the same which is why I have the foil tape on the first one. Which before I shot the video I had the first inlet covered alot to protect from heat. The first one will be the hottest. But it never showed signs of getting hot enough to warp or melt. So I reassembled the first inlet after the video and ran it hot for hours and nothing. So I would say its fine. And most times you don’t need it on full hot except to maybe pre warm it. After that medium high seemed just fine to medium. I didn’t do bedroom only because the kids still come out. So i need to warm the whole unit so warm air gets to the bunk room. Hence the fans move the air and blow it that way.

@williamevery7464 Год назад

Thanks for the additional info! Drawing the return air from outside will keep the heated air temp down by about 30 degrees. I really like this set up : simple with only two connections to the trailer (hot air and 12 volt power) and diesel pump noise stays outside. If I were going to use this at one location for an extended stay I would consider pulling return air from the RV…less CO risk and better energy efficiency.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

You’re welcome. And yes its super simple. And yes, if you could pull return air from inside or even the storage compartment would be better then straight outside air as that would be several degrees warmer then pulling fresh outside near the ground. And yes les chance of wind change blowing then exhaust into the intake. 👍🏼 I’ll have to look into a small extension and maybe one more little port for the intake side of that and run it just inside the storage door. I bet when it was 30 degrees out side the storage compartment was in the 40s…

@kramerky Год назад

I’ve just finished my similar install with the same heater running a duct into my Tacoma truck bed. I used a PVC coupler and lined the inside with many layers of foil tape. Seems to be helping significantly with temps so far!

@gearyheidinewaccount3237 7 месяцев назад

Does anyone know if the keystone Laredo 29rl comes with the thru-port?

@johnnysweekends 7 месяцев назад

Most do around the storage doors to let in cables. But even then they are easy to install…👍🏼

@mickbrown4450 Год назад

Just an observation. why is your exhaust rising from the heater. thats a big no no.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

Can you explain why..?

@mickbrown4450 Год назад

@@johnnysweekends Without prejudice. before buying and installing my heater I watched many videos on youtube for more knowledge before my installation, the muffler supplied with the heaters has a hole in the bottom, must face down on installation due to condensation. I have 2 mufflers in tandem connected to the heater exhaust plus 1500 mm exhaust tube after the mufflers on a sloping tiled patio, not very often and not very much I do get some condensation showing on a tile. So my way of thinking is (anybody else reading this put me right if I am wrong) soot, condensation and unburnt fuel could accumulate at the low point of your exhaust and cause problems maybe. As I said in my post (JUST AN OBSERVATION) You have yourself a nice day.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

I watched several videos as well to see what the problems were hence not mounting one inside but also this trailer defiantly didn’t have a great option. The hole is facing down but correct with the tube going up like that eventually it would collect at the bottom. The amount that collects could be from maybe a numbers of things. How hot you run it, outside air density/humidity and more. It is something im going to keep a eye on for sure and also i dont want to run it in the low position much as this seems to be the biggest contributor to soot and moisture build up. At least from the reading and videos I watched. And good observation, I was just curious. And sorry if my short reply was blunt. Im trying to blow through as many replies as I can so sometimes replies are pretty direct. I try to reply to as many as possible. At least the ones that deserve it lol. But even then some get missed because they dont always show up in the same reply section.

@Melicoy Год назад

Dont add that much heat to electrical area. If it falls off and you dont know $$$

@johnnysweekends Год назад

Even if it fell off, it would just blow around in the storage compartment and heat that up. Which would never get hot enough to worry about. When it’s summer time and 114 out it’s a 125 or better in the trailer and compartments when in the sun. But no matter what no hose is in direct line of hitting wires. Should be just fine..👍🏼

@fmemories Год назад

How is this a heater hack? It is a heater install. Hack implies modifying something.... This is a creative solution for running piping...not effecient because you are heating cold air instead of circulating the cabin air as these heaters were designed to do.

@johnnysweekends Год назад

A hack much like you said is to modify something, or Jerry rig something to make it easier or work. No one else has installed a diesel heater this way. And it’s easy. You modify the through port and add a extra and seal off. Did you not watch that part. Now sure it may not be as efficient with the return out side. But it worked just fine and wasn’t even on hi. I’ll be adding a small port just inside that storage compartment mainly so I lessen any chance of exhaust blowing towards and getting sucked into the return. This agile help it be a little more efficient. But that is actually how most portable diesel heaters work. The return or intake lives outside. Look at several of them. They are all the same. Only a dedicated mounted unit you could then justify running the return inside.