Powering your world with DIY, Test & Reviews of multiple interest including Solar, Generators, Recreational vehicles and more.
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Awesome video! Thanks. I was wondering where that sediment cup was. Looks easy enough to clean if you take your time. I just bought mine last Friday so it only has 3 hours on it. My MIL has a 2008 and with this video I can service it for the first time this weekend. Thanks again.
Glad to see that I'm not the only one to figure out the 30 lb propane tanks are worth the money. Much cheaper to get them refilled rather than the not full exchange tanks. FYI, the Firman 3000 watt dual fuel inverter generator from Costco is a great deal when you get it on sale. Also very, very quiet in operation.
what I want to know is where you got that propane regulator for the genmax 3500. I can tell it's not the original one and I was wondering if your original one they sent with the generator failed in your case also. Mine failed with less than 5 hours on it and 1 year old. Very disappointed in genmax , I don't even know if I want to buy a replacement from them.
Nice video. I filled my gas tank too much and some gas got in the generator. It seems like it didn't run as well after that. The other factor is that I'm in high elevation about about 7,000 to 8,000 feet high. Is there a ground fuse that might have burnt out? I ask because I plugged in my 30 AMP RV circuit breaker and it says "No Ground".
Just to confirm for everyone reading this, Johnny boy does indeed use is Delta Pro more then we do LOL. Hope you hade a great weekend Johnny! Thanks for the Shout Out🤘🏼
I did this twice. The first time when I set the switch to gasoline then gasoline would just start leaking out from the bottom of the carb where the needle is. Just open leaking. So I tore it all down again except I didn't take the jet out. I reassembled everything and now the gas doesn't leak out of the bottom when I turn the switch to gas but the generator started running and it would start dripping gas from the same place again when the generator runs. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Brand new Predator 5000w generator. Thank you for the video.
@@johnnysweekends Thanks. I checked the Oring and it looked fine. I could see like faint wetness around the bowl where it connects to the carb but no active leaks. Nothing running down the bowl actively. It's always coming out of the bottom where the 12mm bolt, plunger, needle, etc. are. I am not a mechanic by any means but it just seems weird the 2nd time it didn't leak when I switched to gasoline but started leaking when the generator ran.
Is it true that it is a lot quieter than the previous version? I have heard a lot of complaints about how loud the cooling fans were on the delta pro. Thanks
Very useful and to the point information. Switching my Harbor Freight panels to MC4 connectors will make it easier to connect them in series, without suffering the power loss of all the wire adapters otherwise needed. Having the All In One MC4 kit on hand will also make for quick repairs if any connectors get damaged in the future.
No need to throw shade on The Solar Lab channel. They make good videos with legit testing. It may not be RV testing but they're doing good work. You can do better
If you do a named system with all named components and heated batteries and full display and more you are looking at around $8000 or so for major pieces but those dont include all your long cables which can add another $500 easy or more. Plus odd and ends, so I would say $8500-$10000 for an equal named brand kit and known battery brand. Can you do cheaper, sure. But you need to compare apples to apples there. Plus who is going to install it? A install will cost $2000 roughly or maybe more. And will you keep it when you sell the RV or van in 3-7 years like most people? Just things to compare.
Thanks for this great video! I'm looking into the 10K power kit for a Class B van. I' ll be running a 48v AC and wonder how long will it take to charge the system up from the alternator and one 200w solar panel if I run it down to say 20%? I saw in another video where you can hook up two lines to the alternator so you get more than 60 amps in.
I dont know anything about two alt lines working. It only comes with one true alt cable. But it can provide a max of 1000 watts but honestly I wouldn’t max it myself as i try to save some reserve. So maybe a 800 watt charge roughly per hour. The 200 watt solar panel will bring in more like 160 watts on average. But if down to 20% roughly you’re looking at over 8 hours to charge it. So more solar would help greatly.
I returned the predator 5000, it was basically recalled and even the next version had some issues but I think it is resolved and now they are working good…👍🏼
I wonder which brands you're looking at that only have 60 volt solar input. I use Bluetti products and they also go up to 150 volts. Bluetti even sells a PV voltage step down module(D300s) for when we have PV arrays in series with a higher open voltage. I like ecoflow, but I love bluetti...
Bi-Facial modules are much heavier due to glass also on their backside, which makes them a bad choice for RVs. Mono crystaline panels are still the way to go for most usecases.
Johnny, I think you might want to revisit this topic. I just called Century to figure out how to get a Champion dual-fuel generator running off NG, and they said an an air box snorkel is necessary. This is despite Champion generators using external demand regulators on the hose running from tank to the front panel gas inlet. They explained that the propane feed inlets are "too restrictive" to allow for these generators to run at full load with NG, even if you use a different hose with a demand regulator tuned for NG pressures.
Does a generator use the same amount of gas no matter how much power you use? so if I buy a 2000 watt generator but only use 200 watt (for a freezer etc) is the rest 1800 watt wasted and so is the gas? or how does it work?
The beta feature Ecoflow released for their inverter is going to change everything for me when it works properly (can’t log in to Shelley via the app atm), all I have to do is install a Shelley switch on the DIN rail of my distribution panel and it will tell my DP exactly how much power to output via BT up to 800W. As an alternative to their relay switch option, it’s £100 compared to almost £2k.
Do you use the recommended psi for the tires or the recommended amount by the camper company? My camper recommended 80 psi and I had two successive blowouts in hot weather with the original cheap tires. ( lesson learned about the tires). But I’ve never been really clear about what to do.
You actually can refill the hub without the drain plug. Fill the cap up with oil and tip it up onto the hub quickly and screw it in. You might spill a small amount, but it actually works pretty well
The app is a little buggy with me. Hit or miss if the display works, but the start stop usually works. I have already had a few issues with the CO2 sensor turning the unit off. If it continues I may have to figure out how "not to" bypass it like so many others have to do on other brands.
I haven’t had issues with Co2 monitor. App was a little wonky but actually it’s been better now that I used it more. I only have 5 hours though on the Gt model.
Not to be a pain, but some of us will only use the generator for a full power outage. Honda reliability is outstanding, but most of us in the southeast will only be running a side by side refrigerator, maybe recharging a power station or two and a few fans until the power comes back...... Videos of scenarios like these would be nice.
I have an older champion dual fuel (7000/9000) I only run on propane .. is there an after market quick connect kit for this ?... btw thanks for the tips on purging, slow open of tank and starting w\o using the choke
I want a controller like this to keep track of battery power with my Bioenno Lithium Iron Phosphate 30 ah battery that I will be using for remote ham radio use. This looks like a lot of wires when it's not charging (which it won't be doing when I'm in the boonies). Power out is mostly what I want to keep track of. Can this be somehow simplified?
Really nice to see those WAGO wire splicers provided. Just strip the correct length of insulation, insert into WAGO, push the lever down - no crimping required. WAGO wire splicers are a huge upgrade from wire nuts. Sadly, the provided Spade connectors were merely crimped onto the wire; no heat shrink insulation Excellent "tip" on starting ac's on fan then turning on the compressor.
That’s a tough question. Because it’s the person and where they go more than the trailer. If you are up north most the time then A/C usage is minimal so a much smaller unit will probably be just fine. For people south and who use the AC 24/7 then a medium unit will be better as it will last longer. I really like the champion and wen4500 dual fuel for the more heavy duty use. They are basically the same but the wen is cheaper. Which is this model here….amzn.to/3XoMhqJ For once in a while and running a few hours a day, I really am enjoying the pulsar 4000 dual fuel, simple, light and works great. Feed back from other users are very positive. The new maxpeedingrods is full of features if you like those. Same engine and made by dinking power / genmax who makes both pulsar and maxpeedingrods. So it’s more of where you camp and how you camp will determine what you need. Some want to run everything under the sun and some are more minimal. But these are the most popular models and ones I would also recommend Predator 3500 not dual fuel and now better option Predator 5000 DF now seems fixed Wen4500 DF remote start Champion DF electric start Onan 4500 gas Pulsar 4000 DF Maxpeedingrods 3500 gas New maxpeedingrods 4000gt….amzn.to/3KIxRKB Hope this helps
@johnnysweekends I'm really liking your videos on the pulsar and the maxpeedingrods! I need something for my camping trips for insurance in case power goes out. So not really getting any heavy duty use. Thank you so much for the reply. 🙌