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Hey man! Thank you do much for this video! I replaced the copper washers today. I had a bad leakage on one of the injectors, so bad that I could smell diesel fumes inside the car. I managed to get hold of volvo original copper washers for about one pound each. Thanks again :) / Simon
Very useful tutorial. Mine is S60 D5 185hp. I will be replace one of my injector soon because it's leaking now, your video helps me a lot. I will follow your instruction to remove the injector, thank you.
Great video - thank you so much Si! Dont know if you remember back to one of your live chats where I mentioned that I had an issue with excessive crankcase pressure which had blown the rockerbox gasket?... injector 5 had a failed seal. Followed this procedure, half an hour later, crankcase pressure completely back to normal
Hi and thank you for this video. I have a 2012 D5 and I can't find any diagrams or videos about the fuel check valve. Do you know where it is located and what it looks like? Thank you for your help.
Hi SiRobb.thx for the video again.It was a great help for me.Now, i had a bad problem on a D5 engine, wich i want to rebuild.I have a broken thread with two injectors suport (M6 screws), and I tried to fix them with helicoil, but they don't hold. Then I noticed that I had oil leaks on the oil cap. I changed the gasket with a new one but I still have oil leaks. The problem of blown helicoil and the oil cap leaking could be a high engine pressure because of a PCV fault? thx
Hi I have a 1.4 Fiesta tdci, when it is cold it hesitates until warm or if left overnight, how do I know if this is air or fuel injector? scanning it gives me code PO200 injection circuit malfunction. I would love to fix my car but unsure how to. is there a way to test for bad fuel injector? Thanks in advance Ian
I had the injectors (MY2007 185hp D5) out and accidentally switched their positions, is that a problem for the ECU? The engine is not starting, do they have recoded to the ECU? Or do I need to check the fuel pressure sensor, or fuel pressure regulator?
hi:) I have a bosch commonrail injector part № 30750283 from volvo euro 4, 163ps 2.4D. Would you please tell me how much (Nm) tightening torque to tighten the nozzle?
Hello again, May i ask what sort of torx bit you used to undo the injector and what size it is, my current set of torx sockets are to short and dumpy. Great video as always thank you Ben
Hey Rob thank you so much for all your useful vids. I have a faulty injector and the 2 bolts holding the clamp sealing were rounded by previous owner. Any tips to remove them?
Hi, thanks for the video, I only had a problem with injector 3, I fitted the new one but now I can't get it started, is there a primer anywhere or bleed screw? Thanks
Dependant on your model year, you can carry out a fuel correction test using Volvo Vida software and Dice or you can do a leak test as shown in my video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bbQhKjj6jis.html
Great video! But I have one question.. I got the v70 d5 2.4 euro 4 (mk2 2006) I have regenerated injections do and do I need to update some codes in mcu ?
As long as everything is put back and done up securely, the high pressure pump will pressurise the system when you restart the engine. I have an installation video in my list so be sure to watch that too.
Apologies...... Just read your question properly. No you don't need to depressurise, just CAREFULLY and slowly undo the high pressure pipe union. Wait around 20 mins after the last engine switch off.
Unless your injector is stuck, no tools are required. Even then, carb cleaner and leverage may be enough if the injector is sticking but you don't know until you get in there. It can be pot luck.
Is there a special tool to remove the circlip holding the collar I place? my replacement injector has them already in place and they're very hard to remove. They're not moving, should I just leave them and replace the copper washer?? Thanks.
Hi. Whatvwere your symptoms? My dads 2008 s40 is puffing loads of white smoke on start up and runs lumpy smells of over fuelling. Would this be the same as what you had?
awaywayye No, my symptoms were prolonged cranking due to reduced fuel rail pressure. Your dad's symptoms sound like either over fuelling from something like a failing coolant temperature sensor or excess unburnt fuel due to failing glow plugs. Tests for both are in my list of videos.
Hi I have peugeot 207 diesel 1.6 the engine run lumpy when the engine is cold after 1 to 2 mint the engine is fine could you tell me what is the problem many thanks.
They get sooted up and become difficult to move or stick completely which in turn can strain and kill off the actuator. There's no specific extra procedure for avoiding this just good maintenance with high quality correct spec oil, monitor MAF and MAP readings to ensure that they are correct and you have no air leaks which will cause excess soot and create the problem.
SiRobb, that’s great... the V70 has done 118 thousand and been very well serviced so hopefully all will be ok. Thanks for your help, very much appreciated
Hello I was wondering if you could help me out I have a Injector leaking and a misfire so I’ve brought 4 reconditioned ones and I’m wondering if they will need coding it’s a 2010 Volvo v50 D4204T 2.0 D 136 HP
HI. .how did u figureit was an inject problem?do u know how long do they last?just curious as my volvo is getting up to 150k but still pers like a kitten!
It would take much longer to start and sometimes wouldn't start at all from cold. This can usually be fixed with a new fuel filter but that didn't work so I carried out an injector leak back test and found the problem straight away. See my video here m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3n-gg1Ytc1s.html
Krasimir Dragomirov I began to have starting problems around 160000 miles but I've only had to replace 1 injector. The others are all still fine. My car is a 2002 and this is a common problem for early D5 engines but not really an issue after 2004.
Krasimir Dragomirov Yes you should be OK. Regular fuel filter changes and using good quality fuel should be all you need to keep your injectors in good shape.
Andrew Gallacher Before doing anything else..... With the engine running, touch each injector with the tip of a long screwdriver and put your ear to the screwdriver handle to listen and confirm that the noise is definitely injector related. What model year and D5 version do you have?
From an old job that's much like car mechanics. I use my fingers. Fine tuned instruments they are. The clicking noise, as in the actual noise itself. Does come from the vicinity of injector 4. The feelings are worst from the metal fuel line for number 4. Although I can feel it slightly on 5 as well. Assuming this is because they are clipped together at certain points and it's just transferring from 4. The engine doesn't drive rough. Other than that noise. You wouldn't think anything is wrong. Maybe below par fuel economy. But that's partly because I just discovered I have no swirl flaps! The link is completely gone. But that's a whole other issue.
Andrew Gallacher The only non invasive (and cheap) thing you can try is to buy some LOW ASH formula 2 stroke oil and add it to your fuel tank at a 1:200 dilution ratio. So for example, a full tank of 70 litres of diesel will require 350ml of 2 stroke. It can dramatically quieten down noisy injectors. Let's hope it's not the faulty hydraulic lifters that were fitted to some Euro 4 D5s
SiRobb Not sure which version mines is? It's the 2006 185. Thanks for the advice. I'll try the oil. Then set aside the £230 for a new injector.... Just in case.
Strangely, the Haynes manual says "discard the fuel pipes, new ones must be fitted" Why would they say that? Surely if the old ones look alright they can be reused.
The pipes mould to the microscopic imperfections of each injector connection to form a perfect seal so any removed injectors must be returned to the same location. New injectors therefore need new pipes to mould to the perfect seal for the 22000 psi fuel system. That's the official reasoning and what you do is up to you.
@@sirobb I've bleed the system fired up instantly, idled the car for about 15min no problem runs smoothly. Thank you again for your replays and videos, 1st time changing seals and bleeding so you've helped me a lot thank you :) Best regards.
Sorry to bother you again but the new injectors came today and I went to have a go at changing them and noticed in my car I have 3 class 6 injectors and 1 class 4 that’s not right is it I thought they were all meant to be the same class and the ones I’ve brought are all class 5 so i think I’ve messed up
Ok so your current situation is all over the place so read the following carefully. On your specific engine, it should be fitted with 4 matching class injectors and the ECM must be programmed to the same class. This will be either Class 4, 5 or 6 and is done at the factory when new. If you ever change injectors and you have no way of changing the class in the ECM, you must always replace with the same class. Based on what you've discovered, it *might* be a fair guess that your ECM is programmed to Class 6 and one Class 6 injector has previously been replaced with a Class 4. Less likely but still possible is the original is Class 4 and three original Class 4 have been replaced with Class 6. Once again possible is that any old injectors have been fitted previously and none match the Class programmed in the ECM. *I don't like guessing though so I would read the current programmed Class with Vida to be certain.* You can replace all four with injectors from another class but you must then program the ECM with Vida to match the new class. Under no circumstances should you have a pick and mix of injectors fitted because there is no way to program the ECM to cope with more than one class. The Class number is defined when the injector is first made and relates to the leak back rate. All similar classes are fitted and the ECM is programed to adjust for a leak back rate in the range that the Class has been given. Unless the reconditioner knows the manufacturers rules for defining Class number and leak back, you may end up with perfectly good and clean reconditioned injectors but they no longer match the Class number printed on them that they were given brand new. For this reason I never buy reconditioned injectors. I would only ever replace one injector at a time with either brand new or an unmolested used one of the same Class. I've also never come across a situation where changing all injectors is necessary. It will only ever be one injector which becomes faulty unless you've contaminated the entire fuel system with incorrect fuel for example. I have Dice available for £135 delivered in the UK and it comes with Vida for free. You need to already have a suitable laptop. Email for *Dice purchase only* is SiRobbYT@gmail.com
No problem Liam and yes your laptop might be suitable but I'll need the following easy to find information. Right click on the taskbar at the bottom of the screen and select Task Manager then "More Details" bottom left of the Task Manager Window then the Performance tab in Task Manager. Let me know: 1. the full name and number of the CPU that's fitted 2. what it says next to "Virtualization" in the Task Manager Performance tab. 3. Total RAM installed 4. Available free hard disk space Disk Space will be in "This PC" in Windows.
Thanks for the extra information Liam. Yes that would run the software perfectly and give you all the information you need plus I can guide you through any specific processes whilst you're finding your feet. I have a brand new, tested and guaranteed working Dice ready to send out and we can get the software sorted out via email straight away so if you want to purchase now, you can email me at SiRobbYT@gmail.com and I'll forward the PayPal details.
Hi Robb, have you had any injector problems? strange noise at acceleration: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O_ETf5uwmSw.html Thats my car, I think the injectors are almost worn out. Would you please listen it? :) thanks!