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I have to say Simon your videos are simply excellent. The calm and methodical approach you take to your work is to be admired. Thank you for taking the time! Tom.
another method i have seen done is people slightly loosen the bolts , squirt in cleaner and then run the engine. Then they stop it and check to see if the bolts are now tight again, i.e. the injector has moved up a little and freed off. the pressure of the combustion chamber is your friend when it comes to removing a sticky injector it seems.
I have been a mechanic 34 years and this is a superb video Simon. Calm collective manner taking your time to plan your attack without damage. I have a mercedes sprinter with the same problem this video gives me hope for removal. 5 STARS
Thank you. I've had a couple of Sprinters which have luckily not needed any injector work which was a relief given the access. Good luck and I hope the fix goes well for you.
@@sirobb I think all of these engines need more attention than we realise. Popping out the injectors at 50K miles would be easy and a good coating of high temperature anti-seize would keep them removable for when that EGR soot needs cleaning up. PS I have a Fiat 1.3 JTD sooted up and a jammed injector. This video has inspired me to soak it.
Removed my injectors yesterday using this calm and methodical approach. Only one injector was seized, but eventually came out with plenty of wd40, time left to soak and plenty of tea. Cheers for the video. I was given an estimate for £1,000 to have the job done! Saved me a fortune.
Hi Dear, thank you very much from South Africa. You video is the best that I have ever watched in my entire life on You-tube. I use your solution and it took me less than 15 minutes to take out an injector that I have been struggling with for over 2 days to take out. Thanks once more you are a star
Excellent video. Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge. I love your careful, patient approach to the job. Proof that car mechanics is not at all about brute force but intelligence and precision instead. 😊
Thanks this was very helpful. I had a seized injector on a BMW N57. After a few hours of soaking it in WD-40 / carb cleaner, trying to rotate it back and forth, starting the engine to heat it up - it eventually broke free! Save me time waiting for a special removal tool.
Thank you SiRobb. Used lots of brake cleaner, time and a little wiggle to get an injector out of our Ford Kuga. Would have given in if it hadn't been for this video
much thanks, I'd more or less given up trying to remove 3 stuck injectors in my 2007 Vito, even after 3 days of soaking in various liquids, the lasts one was acetone, which probably helped. took to the erg valve /throttle cleaner and using the clamp eventually got them move side to side, then started lifting them, again using the clamp upside down. All done now, no leaks.
I’ve gave up on my 2006 Vito, 2 days of trying to move no 1 injector & 2x cans of oven cleaner later....... The strange thing is, since it started ‘chuffing’ it pulls better than it ever has !!!
@emigrate you can always emigrate by plane ;) he showed the version of how to remove it without damaging something that is in good working order. So you need to replace seal for about £13 a bag of 50 washers. That can last you to sort out 10 x d5 engines. Without spending £180 for a cheapest aftermarket injector replacement.
Another helpful video for me to hopefully overcome sticky injector valves. My take out is, let the solvent and time do the job hir you and stay patient. Regards from Germany, Waldemar
this video helped me from start to finish so easy to do if your a patient person i think patients is key to doing this job garages make it sound like removing an injector is impossible to do yourself but if you follow this video and be patient you'll get it out if anything i found that the annoying part was actually cleaning the injector port and the injector itself
I am stripping down a Fiat 1.3 JTD with broken cam chain. It’s badly coked with carbon so I want the head off to clean it safely and confirm there’s no further damage. One injector is stuck solid. Thanks for reminding me to try carb cleaner (or in my case cellulose thinners). It’s now soaking so we will see how it goes.
Hi. Thank you very much for those very informativs videos. Just looking after some s60 d5 so thats pushed me towards looking for common faults and solutions :)
Thank you Simon, I will have fun trying to get two leaking injectors out. I think they have been leaking for a long time after towing a trailer ute smells of diesel extra load of trailer must have pushed out some carbon.
Nice video...My TD4 wasn't as bad as this car but my main form of attacking the removal was to run the engine until very hot. I think I did remove as much dirt etc from around the injector seat before removal to prevent it dropping into the injector port/cylinder. Once hot and everything was disconnected I used a small pry bar under neath the the main injector HP connector an levering gently on the inlet manifold...it took very little effort and no damage was done. I had bought a removal kit just in case but still haven't needed it, as of yet.
You have just saved me a lot of time. Never changed an injector before but needed to do one on my Fiat Ducato. WD40 and lots of wiggling and it came out in a few minutes. Thank you :D
Ooh good luck with that. That particular engine can be a horrible injector to remove due to galvanic corrosion so make up a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and put it around each injector port repeatedly for a few days before even attempting anything.
Great video. Thanks. Very useful demonstration. A nice calm methodical process with ideal results. I'm going through the process of trying to get my Renault Trafic injectors sorted and everyone seems to make such a drama out of the situation in getting them out. I'm gonna do it myself I think as everyone is quoting stupid money. Wish you lived near Reading buddy cos I'd drop it at yours for the fix for sure. 😁 All the best. Thanks again . Steve.
Steve D hello I have monervo van the injector bracket broke so now need new bolts to put back in as the old ones be stretched mechanic says please where did u get yours ?
Thank you for your videos that have helped me plenty of times. How can I clean all the mess that's left inside the injector housing? can I use carb cleaner? is there any risk if bits go inside the injector hole?
Many thanks for that. I have a similar problem with a tarred in injector but in an X Type (like a Mk 3 Mondeo). I have a tool for pulling a non compliant injector but suspect I can't move the collar for tar. Will try a warm engine and carb cleaner. (Followed by a hammer on my puller)
Hi SiRobb, great video indeed. One thing, I have the connections to the injectors currently all removed on Citröen 1.6HDi engine and so, in the absence of being able to run it for a while would initially heating around the base of the injector with a hot air gun help much or should I just stick with the carby cleaner?
Will there being any play with the clamp still on or do you need to remove the clamp first? Also was size torx bit do you need to take the bolts off the clamp? Thanks
Old vid, still useful! Thanks for the carb cleaner trick! Is it’s a denso c.rail? Looks the same as ranger/bt50 06-11. What’s your view on cleaning injectors diy?
It's a Bosch fuel system in this video. I would only clean injectors using Liqui Moly Diesel Purge never by disassembling. There's a video in my Playlist called Cars.
SiRobb thanks very much! On ranger/bt50 wlc (06-11) it’s Bosch pump to denso c.rail. Mine has been sweet for 160,000mi without any injector servicing 🥺. To my knowledge it’s never had any additives so I don’t know why I put “a quantity” of reddex in a full tank and ran it through, briskly. 550 snake oil miles later am blowing blue smoke like crazy, breather pipe is to atmosphere so knew straight away 🌫. Can it really be “dislodged carbon has to go somewhere” and naff an injector into leaking through the seal? The DOHC has a bolt on carrier with 4 retrospective seals that seem to be a weak spot. Also many of our Australian cousins like running 3ml of 2stroke per L on this particular system due to these injectors gunking up and sticking. It’s cheaper to put purpose made additives through....oh that’s why I did it! Am to purchase some moly with haste and checking your playlist out now cheers for the help!👍 Your vids are so concise and methodical there therapeutic 😁 much love
Brilliant, this video has given me the confidence to have a go at my one's. Just one question you say that you only need the tool on euro 3 models. Mine is a 1.6 and the injector looks pretty much like yours. How do you do the circlip on stuff other than the euro 3 model.
@@sirobb many thanks for the reply. I done exactly as you said to do on the video tonight. With a bit of work with that carb cleaner for 3 nights 3 of the injectors popped out. Just on the last one that's a bit stuck tomorrow. I do have circlips but there intact so will be leaving them. Once again thanks for the video it worked a treat.
Been using the same method for years on hundreds of them and never broke anything at all, The only thing that I do different is I use cellulose thinner as it's cheaper and there is always a 5 litre can laying about in the workshop !!!! This is the first thing I look at when customers complain of an exhaust smell inside of the car when standing still in traffic but will disappear when on the move. and have normally been proved right. Sometimes some injectors rust in, especially if engines have been power washed frequently and can be a pain to get out but warming the engine and using something like plus gas for a few hours sometimes works.. It just depends who is going to do the work and how long a vehicle can be off the road, if it is needed quickly (like a delivery van) then a puller will do it but can easily ruin the injector so that has to be priced in as well; As most of us in the trade know some of them are a lot of money and also most now have to be coded in. However the video is informative and can save people a lot of money (if they have the time and patience) to do a DIY job.
ok.mine 1.6 hdi .nut and screw.i have the same problem. and I want to try your method.im not sure if I have to take out screw .as many people says .they will be disturbed. already I took out nut.i put some carb cleaner .still no movement
If the engine runs, you loosen bolt holding down the injector slightly to allow the pressure underneath the injector to slowly push it up. As I say in the video, I *can't recommend* you do this so it is entirely your decision.
What’s the process if you have zero treacle, zero carbon in the wells. Beautiful clean wells and still have injectors that feel like they are held in with Araldite?
You might have galvanic corrosion where the different metals of the injector body and engine block start to become one and feel like they'll never part. My suggestion there is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone which makes a very effective penetrating oil to get into the tiniest of places and break down the corrosion. Off the shelf *penetrating fluids* in a can will work in time too.
i've removed a few of these, but yesterday fixing my own one i got stuck on cyl1 sattle bolt, it broke 3 torx 30 on me, cleaning, and even a bit of heat and it still wont move, what is best course of action in your opinion? thanks
Great work. I've done a lot of repairs on my V70 '04 following your video instructions! I really would like to now if you had any V70 or S60 with a simmilar issue: My V70 has a very ugly feeling in the steering wheel when i'm going long curves. It's a feeling in the steering wheel like you where driving on ice, the steering wheel is pumping some degrees back and forth, back and forth... I've deactivated the steering angle sensor by unplugging the cables so the sensor can't send any data to the CEM. And it helped a little bit. It's smoother in curves but now without DSTC and that's not a final solution for it. Do you maybe know what part of the DSTC System can produce such issue? I will replace the SAS with a brand new one in the next time, but i think it will not solve the problem at all. By the way: I know a dozend of V70 drivers with the same problem, maybe you can figure out what's about it? Many thanks.
SiRobb I've flushed the system and replaced the old one with Volvo original, green coloured. My Dealer even replaced the steering box with a refurbished one, but nothing changed. There is also no broken pipe in the servo-oil reservoir, like it often happen. Only without permanent DSTC the steering feels fine.
Briix OK well in your position, before shelling out for an expensive new SAS, I would invest in Vida if you haven't already. You can bring up all the data for the various DSTC inputs and compare with what it should be. Vida and Dice is invaluable and is actually very cheap because when you're done with it, you sell it. There's a healthy demand for a working setup so you lose very little money.
I already have a DICE from China and the Vida Software. The errorcodes are typical for the issue: SAS internal fault, no communication, etc. Most people with that issue replaced the sensor without any effect. Thats why i think the main problem is way deeper in the system. But it's a glance in the crystal ball for you if you never heard about this problem. Nevertheless i thought it would be good to ask. :)
The Euro 3 D5 has injector classes and the ECM is programmed accordingly at the factory. If you fit 3 or more of a new class of injectors, you need to program the ECM for the new class.
So the ECM can be programmed to give to different classes injectors at the same time the right amount of fuel? And if it's possible, could it be done using VIDA 2014D?
On a Euro 3 D5, the engine is fitted with injectors which are all the same class and the ECM is programmed to match the class. The ECM can only be programmed to one class at a time so for optimal performance all injectors must match the ECM. You can change the ECM class with Vida but for optimal performance all 5 injectors must match the class programmed into the ECM. If you fit mixed classes of injectors, you cannot program the ECM for each different class of injectors so performance will not be optimal.
Carb cleaner for the injector and carb cleaner soaked into a rag wrapped around a screwdriver to clean the port. This video only covers injector removal. I have others covering replacement and prep.
This is a great video, like so many things in life, being patient and focusing on thne job at hand, usually gets you there. Does anyone out there in youtube land know where to buy the carburettor cleaner individually , as most places appear to be selling the cans by the dozen. Hello from Glasgow
@@nicam49 Hello, thanks for taking the time to reply, but I've now sold the vehicle I was having a problem with. I now know where to go should a problem like that surface in the future. Thanks John Kerr
Have you ever had one injector sit lower than the other? Recently removed the injector which is misfiring and it has 3 copper washers on it! Removed them and replaced with 1 genuine Volvo one, and it doesn’t seal and just chuffs! The injector also sits lower in the head 🤔 confusing!
just leave the engine running is exactly what you wanna do,,,drive it and leave it running minimum 1 hour in idle after ...Carbcleaner wont pas the top seal on many injectors..When up insert a rag ,,clean around the whole and then vacuum ,,remove seals and washers after vacuuming,,bobs your uncle
I see. I'm preparing to remove, check and clean injectors on my s60 2002 (hard to start on cold days), so i rather want learn on someones mistakes that on mine :)
You haven't followed the video because I don't screw either way in it. It's a gradual twist left then right but never so much that you separate the injector.
SiRobb ...fair enough. But first twist should maybe be clockwise first. It’s obviously an extreme case but it did happen. Luckily I ended up getting it out and have a spare.
In my case the the bottom half of the injector stayed stuck and I just managed to unscrew the top half. Screwed it back in after removing the injector internals with a magnet and got it moving clockwise, but I'm afraid I might just be stripping the threads in the injector itself...
I’ve been trying to remove a a Volvo D5 injector now for three days, its been soaking in penetrating fluid the clamp is free and I’ve cleaned out the engine cover of black gunk, I’ve made a bath for the penetrating fluid (plus gas )in the engine cover using some blue tac stuff . It’s Still stuck solid despite my best efforts. I can also drive the car with both clamp retaining bolts loosened and it’s still seized. Any ideas anyone?
Soak up all of the penetrating fluid with kitchen towel first before refilling the injector recess so the carb cleaner isn't diluted and don't waste your time attempting to pull the injector until you have good rotational movement through about 45° clockwise and anticlockwise.
Update:- the injector has now been removed after 4 days of carb cleaner applied after every journey (twice daily) I did a 60 mile motorway drive at the weekend with the injector bolts loosened 1 turn. Towards the end of the journey I felt the car hesitating a little then at a set of traffic lights and heard the clanking noise as the injector took up the slack in the clamp , I attempted to remove it back home in the dark of night. but it wouldn’t twist or hammer up or down. One good overnight soaking later and a with a hot running engine on the driveway I again hooked a bodywork slide hammer under the injector nut and pulled the injector up a couple of mm further. It was still stuck but quite raised, I got the injector twisting with mole grips and hammer taps at first then I could twist it by hand. I successfully removed the very stuck injector yesterday! Patience and perseverance is key I came very close to loosing faith!
don't expect this to work on every car I've had some I have ruined trying to get out ,and when you do this turning bit if it is really tight you will just be unscrewing and screwing up the injector at the middle ..like when you take them apart so don't fall for that one check carefully that when it turns all of it turns .not just the top part.
You can't check that all of it is turning as the seam is out of sight in the injector port. You just take your time, allow the carb cleaner to soak and hope for the best. There are no cheap, foolproof and guaranteed ways to solve this problem but this method has worked many times for me.
Rob do a video on the dreaded on volvo s60 d5 2008 185 bhp feckin dpf issues. doing my head in volvo tech just want you to buy parts and charge for vida. finally found a fault they cant fix.... its killing my pocket money
I have no need for petrol so it would be more expensive for me to buy some just for jobs like this. Carburettor cleaner in a can is much more versatile and safer.
actualy this is mistake.. engine must be hot when removing injectors as aluminium streches 3 times metal does so when engine is hot gives clearance so you can remove injectors...
Wtf man. You should clean that it in time, not waiting for it to get in that mess. Space around injectors on my 13 years old car is clean like as if it were new.
