I just rebuilt my 68rfe myself and used bd kit with extra of/ud clutches and the Separator plate instructions said to drill a 1/8 inch hole in the valve body. I didn’t want to do it but did.
Mostly good info, but your pressures are off. Factory 68s command 160 psi, most tunes without a valve body will command 170. If you have a proper valve body setup that blocks the oil that normally limits line pressure in drive tuners will command between 200 and 225. We used to run 250 psi, but we have seen deformation of the underdrive piston starting at 235 psi as we did more research. We also found clutches were starting to compress at 250 psi. This is a major problem as the overdrive drum has a very limited amount of travel and a lot of flex if not modified right. 225 psi is the safest max pressure for long term longevity. Side note, I have seen multiple trucks with P0933, P0934, and P0935 codes as a result of the plug and play controllers. Pull those off and the codes go away.
The transmission doesn't need a tuning. Most tuning on a transmission tuning is just a tow haul mod. It doesn't need that, it needs the shift points changed , they need to be further spred out. The transmission shift really good when you manually shift it at high rpms, to me that one of the big issues that need to be addressed. The valve body upgrade is a good idea, the springs and new pistons inside need to be upgraded as well. I think a 1/4 plate would do better then most of these 1/8 inch plates. The valve body's need to be made out of steel that has been hardened and tampered to well above operating tends to hand the high temps of being loaded. I also think that everyone that owns won of these should start a class action lawsuit Chrysler for having so many problems and costly repairs and new transmission being replaced all the time. I think the EFI live can allow you to to change shift points, if so I'm going to try to calculate the shift points using the manual shift to see if I can get the shift points can be set in those areas and see how well it will react. I have manually shifted this transmission for a very long time and it works a lot better.
If my transmission has 73,000 miles and is down shifting hard from 5th to 4th when loaded and shifter hard from 1st to 2nd when driving it hard or loaded also transmission rarely hits over 190 but I have seen it at 210 would this kit help out or should I replace it
Had BD trans installed. Truck is mostly stock. It failed in less than 30 days! Apparently BD is giving my mechanic a extremely hard time on the warranty claim! Going on 8weeks! Idk who to believe. All I see is good reviews on BD. Anyone know who at BD I can contact?
I had the same issue. Had a built 48re in my 05 and after a week the tail started leaking. Ended up being a Crack in the case. It took me 2 years to get a new tail
Haha, never said I was a tuner but appreciate the input. You can tell the transmission to run any line pressure you command (150,250,300) it comes down to internal parts that limit the capabilities. Keep me on my toes.
On a stock valve body we can't command more than 185 without throwing codes. But we can command whatever we want up to 250 anyway. After that the scaling for the sensor doesn't read any higher in the computer. Though I have seen them make over 300 psi as read by the mechanical gauge on the dyno, they are very capable of making high line pressure.
Weird that you guys don't know to extract fluid from the dipstick tube so you don't make a mess when dropping the pan. It makes sense and you can bottle the fluid to make it easily measure the fluid amount that comes out.
