Great video Dave!! I’m with you on using the 180 flip. I trust my bunk rails more than my stops. I also hate when those koala bears get under my logs 🤣🤣.
Good video on squatting up them cants. Then pieces of bark and stuff laying on the rail will get you every time . I just had a piece of bark just about got me the other days great job….
Thanks for the video. Yes, there are so many factors to keeping the cant square. Never hurts to have attention brought to yet another way we can screw it up if not diligent. Have watched all of your video’s. Thanks for taking your time to make them and to edit.
Thank you for your continued support. I'm sorry for the pain inflicted from all of my videos. There is professional help you can get if you need it. Watching more of my videos will probably not help. Dave
Less movement = more production. It also means more accuracy. After the first face is cut you rotate 90 degrees and make the 2nd opening face. Doing a 180 rotation doesn't gain you anything though you think it might. For one, it's more movement which is slower, for two it can create a parallelogram which you would then have to fix just as you'd have to fix the first two cuts if they are not 90 but you've already moved more then me. 3rd, it can also get bark and sawdust under the cant and have a pushed over cant before cut 3 -- in essence you're doing more work to achieve the same thing as me. As a hobby sawyer that's ok but if you are trying to achieve max production for a customer out on the job site you've got to minimize the movement to increase the production as well as ensure those cants are as good as you can make them. Once that 2nd face is done you make the 3rd the same way thereby carrying the 90 degree faces over. Trust the side supports! DO your maintenance and remember, if the side supports can be off so too can the bunks! Maybe it's just me ;) But with 6 years on the WMLT40 I can tell you I'm faster and more accurate milling this way (not that I don't sometimes utilize the 180 flip but that all depends on other factors).....Cheers
Different mill owners to me this when I first got my mill and had trouble getting square cants . And your right if there not square it’s a pain to fix and you lose good wood . If you not in a rush for production I most often flip the 2nd cut 180 to get parallel sides. Then flip 90 then bring out the square to check , perfect can’t every time on my lt35HD , good video by the way .
Side supports will flex with too much clamp pressure , if you get used to clamp with just enough pressure to hold it , if it’s not 90 you can just drag or move your clamp up or down just a little to square it , saw enough you will get used to doing it by eye and get it everytime
Another good video Dave. 180 is the best way, but if you're turning a 16' long 28' log with a 4' cant hook 90 degrees is way better and a half inch out of square is an easy fix. Thank for taking us along. Brent
First step is to make sure tightened blade & bunk/table are perfectly parallel. Then set stops @ 90°. If your stop is low, then clamp low. Looks like you're losing lots of "meat" in your slabs? Stickers? Misc 1".. Unless you heat with slab wood..
The reason for the fat slabs was that the log used in this video was mostly rotten and was used for demonstration purposes. I don't believe that there was much usable lumber gotten.
Man! For such an expensive mill id expect a lot less chatter! Is it always like that? I run a 30 or so yr old linnlumber mill and other than my entry cut or a blade out of set it cuts very smooth...i run mizer blades too. Not a knock, just observing...nice channel btw.
The chatter you see is not caused by the mill; it's caused by the blade. The blades I use are the Wood-Mizer Double Hard Turbo 7. They are a very aggressive blade and are prone to chatter when cutting too slow......like when you enter a cant. By paying very close attention to speed and engine sound, I can reduce the chatter........most of the time. The WM 10 degree blade, which I recently bought, has less chatter but is also slower cutting. Less chatter/ less fast. Thanks for the comment. Dave
@@thesprucemill6632 I send my blades to Wood-Mizer for re-sharpening. It only takes 1-2 MONTHS! Would like to be able to set and sharpen but too much $$$$$$$$$$$$$. Dave
Using your back stops for squaring your cants is not very accurate and the larger the log the more you are off. Making boards it’s not a big deal, but beams it is. To square the second face for cutting, turn log up to your back stops and move mill head over cant and lower blade until it’s about 2” above cant. Now take your framing square and hold it up to the cut side of the log and the bottom of your saw blade. If those are square you’re good to go. If not use your log turner to adjust the log a little and recheck for square. Repeat until square.
I agree with your comment. The back stops are the least accurate method for squaring; which I mentioned at the beginning. But, if you're milling 5/4 or less, the cant doesn't need to be perfectly square. I seldom use this method. For large beams using the square-to-blade method is the most accurate. Unfortunately it's the most difficult to do. Thanks for the comment. Dave
As far as I'm concerned, square cants are important only if you're milling "construction" lumber. Everything else will be machined again to make it square.
