Really enjoy your videos. Also we’re practically neighbors. I think I am between you and the coast. I have been haulin rock from near the rest area on 26 to green mountain road off Pihl road near the Dairy Queen on 26 at Manning.
Nicely done. I've tried the 747 blades and really like them, but the Bimetal blades are still my favorite for hardwood. Expensive, ut stay sharp much longer. Can't wait for the chestnut!
rule of thumb... if you need the max cant you can get from perfectly round log (as if those really existed), simply multiply diameter inside bark by .7...
So when you suspect the center of the log is no good, can you plan your cuts from the outside in and get similar results, or will the yield always be smaller cutting like that?
Well, the problem is, you never know how bad it is until you open it all up. You kind of have to spend the time processing it to know exactly what you’re going to be left with. In the video I made the next day, I have a Chestnut log with a soft center on the end but it didn’t end up going all the way through the log.
Hmm, I am feeling a little punky. I think I am going to make a tape measure holder/pouch...to the other viewers of this video that statement may not make sense, but Jason get's it...LOL... Take care and good video...
I wasn't very impressed with the 747 maybe just me. I'm in eastern Oregon so I don't cut exactly the same tree species you do most of the time. Love the videos try to catch them as often as possible.
If I owned the company I’d never have time to sawi🤣🤣. I’ve been an operator for 28 years. To me, the best way to get into it is to start as a laborer. You really need to know what’s happening on the ground in order to be a good operator. As it was explained to me in my youth, “a monkey can pull levers, an operator knows how to make the levers work”.
@@NorthwestSawyer I calculate 1/8" for the kerf of the blade and it is dead on but I run 21-25 thou in set which I think is also what WM's set is. When I did 1/16" it didn't work for every blade due to variances in kerf.
Nice little video, Jason! Seem to learn every time I watch one of your videos. I see you stopped because you ran into soft spots, but how far down does the blade go? Could you actually saw that last board of 3/4" or whatever the thickness was? Can't wait for the chestnut! Later, Dude!
The Bearded Woodworker we could make this video a message board. Do you think a healthy dose of dialog in the comments will signal the algorithm that this is a video worth promoting?
I have a question. I am about to mill a ton of lumber. When the Doug Fir is still wet how much extra should you cut to account for the shrinkage? Like if I am cutting 2X6's....should I cut a full 2"X6" or closer to the 1.5"X5.5". Will that change much when cutting headers. Thanks. I will be stacking and drying this prior to use for construction.
You are a credit to people like myself who now understand a little of what is in your bones .. ( lumber ) The time you take to explain the importance of what you do actually unlocks what is possible as a business. I'm looking to purchase a 20ft container of live edge "wainey edge" red wood 3inch x 30 + inch x 8ft slabs shipped to the UK.... ( used for table tops ) Regards are sent from Yorkshire. Steven.
Hi Jason, Taking you up on a question. I noticed that the Woodmizer shop had a notice up with a Re-sharp facility at the rear of the building. Do you always use new blades or do ever have your old ones sharpened? Cheers
Great video. It was just what I’ve been needing. I have about 6 hours on my new Mill and I a little confused still on how to size up the log, so thank you. I’m cutting cedar right now. Not as big as your cutting. It’s red cedar.
Good video. Are those 1550 fence boards used right off the mill, or will they be put in a kiln first? I've seen several videos where things like barn siding could dry right on the structure and it was somehow accounted for. Thanks and take care.
Bill Tufts the saw stops about an inch from the deck so it can’t hit it. The only metal he could hit are the braces and log lock if he doesn’t remember to reposition them and any metal hidden in the trees.
Bill, Shemp is mostly correct. While the saw can’t hit the deck, I’ve found that the nut on the de-barker wheel can hang up on it. The last board on the deck can be as thin as 3/4”.
I just tried a 747 blade, on red oak. I haven't notice that much of a difference. I normally run 7degree double hard. I have been making a lot of fence boards also. I cut 3" x 5/8 for batten strips also. Happy milling Ron
Hey Jason, good to see you're still at, I thought maybe you went on vacation! I see that the same Sawmill package was still sitting outside WM's door when you went to pick up your blades, I was there several days before to pick up my 48in canthook. I want to hear more about the 747 blades how you like and or dislike them. Stay safe and take care.
Great video on laying out the log. However, shouldn't the head scratching and figuring be done on the small end of the log? That's the limiting factor of the lumber yield from the log.
That is true. I like to cut from the big end for a few reasons. I’ve found that when I cut from the small end, I end up taking more off in my first cut and possibly wasting a board or two. Also, if you start at the big end, you know for certain that your log will pass through the saw head all the way down the cut. Even a log that dimensionally should fit can be positioned on the deck off-centered to the saw head. I’m basically showing here how I do it. There’s definitely more than one way to do it.
NW Sawyer ... this is still my favorite channel! I have actually been thinking about a Wood-Mizer mill as well for next Spring. I don’t live far from the Wood-Mizer in NC. Good stuff and thank you for making your videos.
Glad to see your O K hope the change was as good as a rest nice to see the housing plot again fingers crossed i win the lottery love to live there . ;-)
I burn a lot of the scraps but I also find myself finding uses for some of it. I built a chicken coop recently and used a lot of the leftover flitches for siding. I’ve cut live edge slabs that were used for shelving in my wife’s hair salon.
I don't do fencing under 1" thick anymore. I did an order a few years ago of about 2500 boards @ 10' and I was done with that mess. Took way too long to get it all milled down and it was all white oak so.... yeah. I have a couple of things that will help you out. I will pretty them up and send them to you when I have some free time this week.
Hi NWS! I'm soon to be a NES. I've only milled vicariously thru you and other toobers. Okay, I've dabbled with other people's mills. But I have a lot to learn and I'm really excited to finally take delivery of my brand new LT35 hydro in a few weeks. These types of videos are helpful in shortening that learning curve that's surely coming! Thanks and best regards from Vermont 👍
I already have 3 customers wanting to bring me their logs. This mill just might pay for itself, despite my wife's skepticism. But she's otherwise supportive and excited too!
Havent seen you saw for a while. My wife and i got us a mill a 40 wide with simple set while you were out playing with big boy toys in the dirt. thats a great order you got for fenceing boards.
I understand if you don't want to answer my question but for the 1500 fence boards you have to cut what sort of money would you expect to get per board or board foot or whatever? As I said I understand if you'd rather not answer. Great stuff as always 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Joshua that price is if I don’t have to buy the logs. It goes up depending on the price of the logs. But you’re correct. I paid for my mill in the first 6 months of owning it. The RU-vid videos have earned enough to buy the mill and 10 years worth of blades!
I just got a mill too. Like the commenter below I'm working the bugs out in mine. Also, I'm very quickly discovering why trees die. There's nearly always something wrong with them from a saw miller's POV. The amount of effort collecting logs, placing them, setting up the toeboard for taper compensation for the comparatively low yield is dawning on me. I'm learning a lot thanks to you and a few other channels. I absolutely love some of the comments more experienced people than I, make too. For example one commenter wrote a rule of thumb is multiply the small end of the log by .7 to get the cant size. It's true! As sure as night turns to day true. Another great comment was large logs for smaller lumber sizes increases productivity and decreases waste and conversely when you want say 12x12" use smaller logs to get just that size. This is great knowledge so I back worked out, multiply the cant by 1.43 to find the log size you need. I think I'm going to build a solar kiln and start using some of my good healthy and alive straight trees at some point because milling even very good looking fallen logs seems like a mug's game - it is so hit and miss with far more miss than hit like perhaps 80-20 for where I live.
Congratulations on your mill! I’ve definitely learned a lot by watching other sawyers so I’m happy to give back what I can. Every once in a while those downed logs will give you something amazing😉
Been running the LT35 lately here in Central Pa trying to work the bugs out and your videos have been helping me so much. You have such a great way of explaining and showing the process, my brain understands it's so much more than some others. Thank you!!
Thank you for this video. My milling is getting better. I milled a huge log last week I videoed. I would love for you to watch it and give any pointers. It was 20" on one end and 26" on the other. Getting ready to start milling timbers for the house build want to make sure I get the most yeild out of my logs. I can share the link here if you don't mind or pm it to you. I know you are busy and I understand if you don't have time.
