Removal and installation of a differential drive pinion on a Toyota 8" removable differential. The process is similar for any overhung differential drive pinion.
You can watch 3-4 different people do the same job. Then one person who is a bit more meticulous than the rest gives you a great tip. I've always known to mark the position of the shafts and the flanges. But not to mark the position of a flange like that relative to a pinion. Thank you.
Marking the pinion is one small thing and you may never run into a problem if you don't mark it however i don't like to attempt fate if something is off slightly. Putting the flange back on in a different location may induce an unwanted vibration that you didn't have before. Of course all of this doesn't matter if you are replacing your pinion.
I used a chain wrench to hold the yoke and a harmonic balancer puller to get the yoke off. My 7.625 GM Axle. I put a Torsen carrier out of a Camaro in my S10. Also used a solid crush sleeve instead of the original crush sleeve. This is the 2nd rear axle that I've had issues with and I don't think the original crush sleeve does a very good job keeping pinion preload. Solid one can't crush down over time. I like the Torsen because there's no clutches to wear out and I don't get stuck on wet grass anymore. The clutches are worn out in my Explorer. I'm seriously considering switching that to a Detroit Truetrac Diff. Maybe in the front also. Torsen have such smooth operation,I can hardly tell it's there.
Torsen or worm gear limited slips are great. The only down side is if you put really large tires on a truck, then they can't handle the load and can break. Additionally there is no special additive to add to the oil. Doesn't matter if you use a crush sleeve or a solid spacer with shims over time both will loosen to some extent. Crushing a crush sleeve can be very difficult if you don't have a torque multiplier. You should never tighten the pinion nut with an impact wrench. You can spin it down until there is just a little pinion free play but after that it should be tightened by hand. You take a chance of damaging the pinion bearings if you use an impact wrench.
I deal with alot of interference bearings on large chillers and fans. When installing a bearing in that equipment it is standard practise to heat it up to about 225°-250°F(usually a cone bearing heater but toaster oven works as well, BIG bearings, 5+" shaft get a regular kitchen oven) slide it on, and let it cool. Races can be put into a freezer(or ice) for a few hours along with light lube, and then they usually tap in easily. Suprised auto industry doesn't follow suit.
most automotive bearings do not have that tight of an interference fit so heating and cooling is not necessary and can be time consuming in a production world.
If the rear pinion bearing spacer had the chamfer or bevel,which way does the chamfer face?And what's the purpose.I ran my nut down until all play was gone,then used a inch lb.tourque wrench,tightened several more times until I had 6inch lbs,then 16. Now my carrier strikes the pinion gear?I used the old bearing spacer?
15:58 Actually the tapered side will offer more grip if the object being pressed against is tapered as well, where as the flat side would be less of a grip. And vice versa, flat side will offer more grip on a flat object being removed but less grip on a tapered surface. It’s all to do with surface area being contacted between the parts
Agree. However normally if you can get the flat side of the splitter into a location it means you are able to access a flat side of the bearing or object you are pulling off. I say normally but not always.
Question: after installing new pinion, bearings, and races when I spin the pinion it feels slightly jerky until i get it moving a little faster, then it smoothes out. Is that acceptable?
I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner. I try to reply in a timely manor for all questions. I don't remember seeing this question in my inbox. You should not have a jerky feel at all while the pinion is being turned at a steady rotational speed. slow or fast. You may get a small jerk when the pinion first starts to rotate (the break away) but after that if you rotate the pinion with a smooth constant rotational motion and it is jerky or doesn't feel smooth and with consistent resistance then something is wrong. The bearings might have been damages during installation or you are reusing old bearings that need to be replaced. You may have over crushed the crush sleeve (collapsible spacer). The bearing race may be installed improperly and not sitting square on the race housing lip. There could be a chip or bur on the race housing lip causing the race to be crooked. If your using a crush sleeve eliminator kit you might have too much pinion bearing preload. (This could also happen if you are using a crush sleeve.) Another possibility is the bearing were installed dry or not properly lubricates with gear oil. And finally if the pinion nut was tightened with an impact gun, it's possible to damage the bearings and races by using an impact gun to set the pinion bearing preload. Also if you over tighten the pinion nut and then loosened and tighten again to try and get the right preload this can damage the bearings.
in my experience it usually takes a lot more effort to collapse the spacer and hence more easily over tighten due to the increased force being used. Very easy to over tighten and create too much pre-load.
You are absolutely correct. I was using a used crush sleeve. Normally a torque multiplier is used to tighten the nut and as you said it is very sensitive and easy to over tighten. NEVER use an impact gun because you will damage the bearings. I'm working on an updated video to show this. Thanks for commenting.
You are correct. I often recommend that less experienced re-builders purchase a backup crush sleeve just in case the sleeve gets over crushed the first time.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. If the pinion depth shim is beveled on the inner circumference the bevel side normally goes against the head of the pinion. If you had not discovered the wrong bearings I would have said the ring and pinion gearset was a different ratio than from the original and the pinion depth shim needed to be changed. feel free to write again if you have an additional problems once you get the new bearings.
Bullshit! I've seen (and have done) vices ripped out of benches or broken, while trying to undo the bolt on the end of the pinion, and this one comes off easier than a spark plug?
