Links to the tools and parts required to rebuild a differential: Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7 Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2 Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp Press: amzn.to/3T5JYq9 Chemicals: Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9 Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build: Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
When you make a large increase in the OD of the tires, the powertrain isn't the only thing that loses leverage. So after you change final drive ratio to regain lost acceleration leverage, you might want to allow more following distance in traffic if you didn't make any brake upgrades to compensate for the leverage the brakes also lost.
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb. It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear. I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original. Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Can crush collar sleeve with shims change pinion depth? First time and everything feels to tight. I think I need to add another shim on the crush collar sleeve. I'm at 20 but it feels just a tad tight with backlash 8 9.
9.51minute - it is mentioned as lower ratio....i think , it is higher gear ratio.. in higher ratio, torque and acceleration will achieve.. can you clarify
Great video. I am in the process of rebuilding the front differential of my ‘77 FJ40 LandCruiser. This explains much of what I saw on other channels but which was not explained in depth. Great video. Appreciate you taking the time to go over everything in so much detail.
Regarding speed vs ratios. Tremec has an online gearing calculator. Enter tire size, transmission gear ratios, final drive ratio, and engine rpm, and the calculator will give vehicle speed at the specified rpm for each transmission gear. Example, my 2014 F150 with 3.31:1 final gears on 35x12.5's in 6th gear at redline would mathematically hit 238mph in the vacuum of space. I went with 4.56:1 gears.
I love this video. I'm glad I kept on searching. Truly the basics as I knew nothing about a differential. But, I never take my vehicle to a shop. I figure it out myself and do the repairs like I have done for years. But this munka sunka has got my brain all twisted up. I have a 2012 Jeep Wrangler. I took it apart because of the racket is was making. I found it needs new carrier bearings. All good, I have got it totally broken down. I've got new bearings and grabbed a small variety of shims. Because her is where my dilemma starts. On the passenger carrier 1 thick shim and 1 thin shim was used. No big deal. On the drivers side instead of any thick shim. The were 8 thin shims that when i removed the cover the shims were sticking down about an inch to an inch and a quarter and of course destroyed. Also the drivers side axel was sticking in the spider gear so far that it was up against the spider gear rod with some force. I looked at the passenger side and i didn't see the spline of the axel at all. When i pulled the bearings off the carrier 1 thin something like a shim was behind the bearing. Just that one bearing. I haven't seen any video at all where there is a shim behind the bearing. If you could give me a little insight to these little issues. I would so greatly appreciate it. It's a dana 44 by the way. Thank you for your time.
